"If something is worth doing, it is only what is considered impossible." Oscar Wilde
On this "skeleton" I went for spare parts. And then I heard: “Hike, a stolen scooter, if all without lining! And ... he looks like the Terminator. " The phrase about the Terminator stuck in my mind. I came home and realized that I would not return my own plastic to him. I wanted to do something completely unusual in the style of unforgettable Hollywood characters. Later, another idea appeared - to stir up something similar to a motorcycle, but with a native transmission - a sort of scooter bike. But for this you need to redo the frame and the entire layout! I spent a lot of time thinking. One evening I watched Predator on TV. And it dawned on me - that's what I need! And away we go ...
I remembered the skill of a welder - this is how the Ducati birdcage frame appeared - not only beautiful, but also durable. There was not much skill, but the tool was enough. Laser pointers and even a laser rotary level were used. Every detail, made by hand, was given with a fight, because there was nothing to take measurements from, and sometimes he himself did not know how it would look.
There was a time when I made a living by making art products from plaster and concrete - it came in handy: I sculpted the Predator's mask from plasticine and made a multi-piece form from it out of plaster. Then he put glass mats impregnated with polyester resin into it. It is the same with all cladding elements. The tank decided to make it also fiberglass, and introduced a copper grid into the walls to remove static electricity. Later, the tank and seat were combined into a single piece to reduce the number of fasteners and ease of dismantling.
Was haunted by the standard rear suspension- well, it did not look in the new layout, there was no "airiness" and "openness" in it. I had to make an adapter, which at the same time played the role of a rear wing and was a support for a monoshock, like in the Italjet Dragster 50. Oh, and I suffered with it!
Rear suspension adapter - asymmetrical, complex shape, welded from metal 3 mm thick. First, I made a model of the adapter out of cardboard, then outlined the points of attachment to the scooter "leg" - the transmission. For rigidity and reliability, I used the maximum possible number of attachment points - on the left (in the direction of travel) I used the upper bolts of the variator cover and two free points (after dismantling the starter, which I refused without regret, since it starts up "from half a kick") points, as well as a powerful "point ", Freed from dismantling the native shock absorber. On the right, there are two points of attachment of the exhaust pipe, I also used them. I have specially supplemented the adapter with small stiffening ribs.
I found a monoshock at a scooter parts store. But the point of its lower attachment had to be tinkered. The lower "ear" of the VAZ shock absorber came up for her. Having pressed out the old silent block, welded the ear to the adapter, reinforced it with "kerchiefs" and pressed in a new one. I made the upper attachment to the frame with the possibility of "adjustment" - I drilled several pairs of holes, during the ride I chose the optimal position. The monoshock really changed the look of the scooter. At one time, I even wanted to give up the idea of \ u200b \ u200bthe Predator, and make it naked. But the trouble is - there is nothing to expose: there is simply no engine in the usual "motorcycle" place.
The hood turned out to be voluminous, so the musical giblets - a Pioneer receiver, an electrician and a 20 Ah battery - were sent to where they used to put their feet. From above, all this is closed by a lid, into which the Alpine speakers are embedded. It is gratifying that there was a place for music on such a little one! I moved the receiver control using a computer loop to the steering wheel, and moved the panel from the receiver to the same place.
Introduced under the tank and belly LED backlight, and the eyes-headlights made bright orange and extraterrestrial aggressive. The Predator's tail is metal, the frame made of thin pipes is sheathed with thin (1 mm) metal. I did this for rigidity, since it is convenient to move by the tail of the bike.
He did not touch the engine, he just removed the carbon deposits and polished the blow-out windows, because he was making a motorcycle for his daughter, and so far she does not need power. Air filter connected via an extension cord and hidden inside the frame. This is a forced measure - a step is located in its regular place.
I painted the bike with hammer-effect paint, and many bought into it: "How much does it weigh if it's all made of metal?" But the weight did not increase much (from 68 to 75 kg), mainly due to the battery and music. But since these weights are located low, the bike has become very stable, which is convenient when stopping at traffic lights - you hardly put your legs out.
This small (length 1500, width 610, seat height 750 mm) alien hunter will not be lost anywhere, and not because of the backlight - it is on every palm tree, flowerbed and bush, and not because of the music - it is from every car, but it will not be lost because it is unique.
And the phrase about the Terminator does not leave me alone. Making an Iron Terminator with a "red eye" and a bare skeleton is too easy. But the "Liquid Terminator" ...
What do I want? A scooter, a cast iron cauldron and a large iron spoon ...
This is my first attempt at making something out of the ordinary out of a simple scooter. It is a pity that I did not start doing this earlier.
There are replicas on the Predator theme - a lot of helmets and a couple of bikes, but there is no such Predator, moreover, made of a "hole".
| sludge unit | 3KJ engine (Yamaha Aprio), variator and Malossi belt, Tecnigas release. |
| Chassis |
Yamaha Aprio based frame, center shock rear suspension, fiberglass (5 l) gas tank, cast wheels (China), Pirelli tires. |
| Other |
Modified mountain bike steering wheel, fiberglass cladding, LED backlight and a brake light. Audio system: Pioneer receiver, Alpine speakers. |
| Project budget | About 60 thousand rubles (with a "donor"). |
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The idea itself was read from motorcycle magazines. In them, I saw that there was an opportunity to buy a tracked engine, and convert an ordinary motorcycle into a kind of homemade snowmobile. And since there is an opportunity to convert a motorcycle into a snowmobile with your own hands, then why not try to do this with a scooter.
At the very beginning, I had an idea as tracked engine use part of the usual "Buranovskaya" caterpillar (photo 1). But old caterpillar I couldn’t find a Buran snowmobile, I didn’t buy a new one - it’s expensive to buy a whole track for one quarter of the track.
I had to contact a specialized company and buy a rubber track from them, and even a plastic ski.
In the previously thought out and verified design of a scooter and at the same time a snowmobile, the main thing was that a scooter in a warm season should remain a scooter and only become an additional snowmobile in winter. That is, the very process of converting a scooter into a snowmobile and back should be very simple - remove the ski and tracks and put the wheels back.
I have neither a milling nor a lathe, so I used all the components and parts either ready-made, store-bought, or those that you can do with your own hands and with ordinary tools and.
In a shop selling snowmobiles I bought a leading sprocket again from Buran. I also had to buy wheels from a children's scooter, and two wheels with bearings from a garden cart.
Now the power of the scooter is a snowmobile.
In the transmission of a scooter, the gear ratio provides for driving on asphalt at a speed of 40 to 60 kilometers per hour.
It is quite clear that when driving on a snowy road, the load on the engine immediately increases, and it may well be that its power will not be enough. In addition, it is dangerous to “fly” on snow and ice at such a speed. Therefore, the gear ratio had to be changed by replacing the drive wheel of the scooter with a wheel with a smaller size, from a kart.
To make such changes to the design, from an unusable moped wheel rim I cut a drum (with splines) for the drive shaft. And I drilled holes in it that will help fix a smaller disc in it. The result is shown in photo # 2.
I solved the problem with the caterpillar sliding off the wheel and its possible slipping as follows: I made it myself from ordinary plastic pipes for the hook. In the subsequent assembly, they will go into the tracks of the scooter-snowmobile. They can be seen in photo # 3.
Since it is very difficult to find a tire with a circumference suitable for the number of steps on the track, I had to do the following.
I made a kind of bandage of the required length from a metal strip. Then he marked on it equal distances corresponding to the step on the caterpillar and fixed on them the hooks previously made from plastic pipes. To fasten the hooks to the metal, I took M6 bolts. (Photo # 4). Then he fixed the tire on the wheel with the same M6 bolts. The result can be seen in photo # 5.
Thus, with my own hands I made a kind of soft sprocket, which will be the leading sprocket for a homemade snowmobile scooter.
As a driven sprocket, the following design was made - the drive sprocket from Buran was fastened with M8 bolts to the wheels equipped with bearings from the garden cart, which I mentioned above. I used an M10 threaded pin as an axle / The structure can be seen in photo # 10.
Snowmobile scooter frame.
The frame was made from metal pipes and corners (Photo # 7)
The frame is made with arbitrary dimensions - it all depends on the length and width of the caterpillar you choose and what size your scooter is.
As I mentioned above, I had to buy a plastic ski for a winter scooter - making it with my own hands would take too much time and effort, and it is not expensive. In principle, if you wish, you can, of course, do without buying it, but just make a wooden one with your own hands, and it is imperative to equip it with a metal skate so that the scooter, moving through the snow, is better controlled.
I attached the ski to the moped fork using a homemade stand (photo 17-18), for greater safety, the left and right sides of the fork work independently (i.e., they have two degrees of freedom of movement). With this design, our homemade snowmobile can turn in any direction and the ski will not rise, but will remain the entire plane on the snow surface.
The body of the scooter made of plastic in the cold becomes very fragile, in addition, its design is equipped with pockets into which snow is stuffed, which contributes to an increase in the weight of the snowmobile scooter, and therefore to a drop in power when driving.
For winter, the casing was made minimal. It will be located only above the track, but a large area is needed in order to have where to put your feet in overall winter shoes, well, for decoration I wanted to make a shield for installing it on the snowmobile fork, which is easily equipped with a windshield for movement over a long distance or in the wind and snow.
In principle, making a casing for installation on a caterpillar with your own hands is not so difficult, the main thing is to make a template for fiberglass (matrix).
For this, polycarbonate, which is increasingly used for, or plexiglass or the like. materials (if only they were comparable in size), first cut out the sidewall (Photo # 19)
We turn it over and put it on a large sheet - it will be the wall of the template. Then we fix the plastic corners with hot glue along the perimeter of the side wall.
Next we need a strip of flexible plastic. Its dimensions must correspond to the dimensions of the casing to be produced.
Now we start assembling the template (matrix), for which we fix the panel, the bottom and the prepared sidewall with glue. We close the joints with plasticine. The template for making the casing is ready.
Now cut the fiberglass, and coat the pieces of fiberglass with epoxy over the template.
After 24 hours, disassemble the template, cut off the excess fiberglass, paint it and the casing for the homemade snowmobile scooter is ready.
The platform for the feet was made in the same way, with one exception - silver was added to the epoxy for decorative purposes.
The main work has been done - it remains only to put everything together and a homemade self-made scooter-snowmobile is ready.
DIY snowmobile scooter - photo to article
Of course, our home-made snowmobile scooter is unsuitable for driving in very deep snow, the power and track width in it is still not the same - it will "bury itself" - keep this in mind if you assemble your own version of the snowmobile-scooter with your own hands.
But on the road or in the snow with a depth of up to 15 centimeters, such a homemade "winter" scooter goes very confidently and can even tow a small load behind it.
In the spring, it is easy to make an all-terrain vehicle from a snowmobile converted from a scooter, for which you remove the ski and put the wheel on.
Homemade snowmobile from a scooter - photo
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Today, trade can offer a large number of various models of scooters from domestic and foreign manufacturers. A person who wants to buy a vehicle has a huge choice. However, even with such an abundance of options, not everyone finds what they like. Someone is not satisfied with the dimensions and weight of the car. He is looking for a more compact device that can be placed in, say, the trunk. passenger car... Someone thinks the design is modern " iron horses»Not attractive enough. He wants to show his own and collect his own. Such people are interested in how to make homemade moped... Here are some helpful tips.
What you may need
In order to make a homemade moped, first of all, you should decide on the details that will be involved in the assembly. In most cases, the basis of the design is an unnecessary bike. Immediately you need to think about where all the details will be located. The most cumbersome of these is the engine. It is usually located in the area of the rear rack or at the bottom of the frame. If the frame has such a structure that the placement of the engine will create inconvenience when the moped is moving, then it can be made separately. This will require welding. The frame should be cooked from bicycle parts that are specially designed for the appropriate load. If necessary, you can change the geometry of the desired part. For this, an emphasis is applied and The use of water pipes is strictly not allowed, since they do not have sufficient strength. Such a homemade moped won't go far. Engine mounts can be cut from iron sheets at least 5 mm thick and welded to the frame.
Moped engine
Here, craftsmen usually follow different paths. Some use engines from agricultural machinery. For example, mechanisms from motoblocks or chainsaws. Others build a homemade moped using special bike motors. For example, a Chinese motor of the "D" series, or simply "cheap", is popular among technicians. What to use - everyone decides for himself. Perhaps the old one from the saw was lying in the closet, and it should be attached somewhere. We need to put it in a homemade moped. However, the best advice here is to use a standard bike motor. So there are more guarantees of its reliability. The engine should be installed on the prepared mountings. If it uses a chain drive, then a standard bicycle sprocket is acceptable for torque transmission.
Brake system
Is it possible to make a simple winter moped that could become not only entertainment, but also an assistant for those who live in villages and towns. "Such a moped could also be used when clearing snow," writes Slava Polkova from the Pskov region, "after all, after a snowfall, you rake debris near your house for hours."
Indeed, why not? After all, a good help is two horsepower enclosed in a cylinder of a moped engine. If you make a tractor with such a motor, then it will help you not only to remove snow from the tracks with a simple plow, but also to take it out on a sleigh to the place designated for that.
So, a winter moped. You will need the following purchased components and assemblies: an engine of the B-50 type (or Sh-58 - Sh-62) with the necessary equipment: a carburetor, an air filter, an ignition coil; front fork from "Verkhovyna", "Riga" or "Karpaty"; rear pendulum fork from any moped; a shock absorber from a motorcycle "Minsk" or "Voskhod", as well as a plastic canister with a capacity of about two liters and a fuel cock with a sump. In addition - a steering wheel with a control handle throttle carburetor and clutch and brake levers. Well. of course, a pair of wheels - for example, from a mini-mokik made in Riga or a motor scooter. For the frame, select steel (preferably seamless) pipes of various diameters. Understandably, stock up on a welding machine.
Take a look at the picture. As you can see, the "winter" moped is not too different from the usual one, except that instead of a wheel, a ski is installed in front (which, however, with the arrival of summer, can be easily replaced with a wheel). And further. The rear wheel, equipped with snow chains, is fixed in a pendulum fork not with two lateral forks, as on serial mopeds, but with a central shock absorber from the motorcycle.
If you are not going to completely copy our moped, I can recommend a completely universal way of designing and manufacturing two-wheeled vehicles.
To begin with, cut out the silhouettes of all available purchased components and assemblies from thick cardboard - an engine with clearly marked mounting assemblies, a front fork, a fuel tank, exhaust pipe and muffler, rear swinging fork, shock absorber, rear wheel. Now lay out the silhouettes on a large sheet of paper or plywood and find the only possible position for them that will suggest your design flair, design taste and common sense. Do not forget that the driver is also included in the quality (" Composite element"Into the system" person - vehicle". That is, it makes sense to cut out the articulated silhouette model from thick cardboard in accordance with your anthropometric dimensions - it will help to avoid mistakes in the layout of the machine.
So, the silhouettes took their place on the plaza. Fix them on it (say with a couple of small studs) and circle them with a colored pencil. Now you can draw a frame that will unite all the units into a whole. It will be based on two pipes - spinal (longitudinal) and vertical. The first one mounts the steering column, upper engine mount, and seatpost. The second is the rear engine mount and the swingarm axle. To create a frame with an optimal configuration, combining all these elements, means making it as simple as possible, with minimum dimensions and, accordingly, weight. But at the same time as strong and tough as possible.
Having determined the configuration and arrangement of the frame elements by the selection method, draw it on the plaza drawing (take a pencil of a different color). Next, you should draw the mounting assemblies for installing the engine, brackets for fixing the shock absorber, the position of the seat cushion - and the full-size plas-drawing of the moped is basically ready.
Let's move on to the second stage - the manufacture of the moped frame, and then to the assembly of the car. First, pipes are fitted directly according to the drawing - backbone and vertical. Then they are stuck together with several welding "points". Also adjust the reinforcing gussets, engine mounts, steering column, pendulum fork attachment point. Having carefully checked the compliance of the frame with the drawing-plaza, as well as its symmetry relative to the longitudinal plane, weld all the joints sequentially with a step-by-step control of the fidelity of the frame to the drawing. This will then avoid distortions of the entire structure.
At the welded frame, the seams are cleaned with a file, the pipes are sanded, after which the metal is primed and painted in two or three layers with air-dried alkyd auto enamel.
The front steerable ski of the winter moped is wooden. Of course, the best will come from a piece of mountain, but you can glue it from several layers of plywood, and then edging the sole with a thin steel sheet.
The snow chain is assembled from links of a suitable steel chain. You can, of course, just wrap the wheel with such a chain, but more reliable option- a composite bandage of the type of an automobile chain from separate elements.
Please note that the winter moped does not have footrests. The fact is that the driver has to help himself with his feet while driving to maintain balance, so it is best to put on miniature plastic skis or, in extreme cases, make "skiers" from scraps of children's skis. Their length is no more than 400 mm. I note that the brake on the moped is only on rear wheel with manual drive.
To work in tandem with a moped, do two towing devices- "snow plow" and cargo sleds. The first is for clearing paths. It consists of two boards connected in the form of the letter A with a section of 30X300 mm and a length of about a meter, with a jumper approximately in the middle of this letter A. Of course, such a "plow" can only remove freshly fallen snow. The cargo sled is a regular plywood box installed through spacers on two children's skis.
Of course, carry out all work on cleaning and transporting snow in first gear. If the engine starts to "sneeze", you will have to install an oversized sprocket on the rear wheel. That's all.
Yes, when switching to the summer version of the moped, standard footpegs and, preferably, a foot brake are installed on it.
The numbers in the figure show:
1 - rear swingarm, 2 - seat cushion, 3 - fuel tank(from suitable in terms of volume and dimensions plastic canister), 4 - reinforcing kerchief (steel sheet 2.5 mm thick), 5 - seat base (box made of sheet duralumin), 6 - frame tube (steel tube with a diameter of 36 2.5 mm), 7 - steering wheel (from Monica " Karpaty "), 8 - reinforcing kerchief (steel sheet 2.5 mm thick), 9 - front vipka (from mopeds such as" Riga "," Karpaty "or" Verkhovyna "), 10 - rubber brace-shock absorber, 11 - bracket (pipes - 22X2 mm in diameter, supports - 2.5 mm thick foot, gusset - 3.5 mm thick steel). 12 - wad (glued from plywood blanks, sole - steel sheet 0.8 mm thick), 13 - engine (type V-50 or Ш 58 - Ш-62), 14 - vertical frame tube (steel tube with a diameter of 36X2.5 mm ), 15 - rear engine mounting bracket (steel sheet 2.5 mm thick), 16 - shock absorber (from motorcycles like "Minsk" or "Voskhod"), 17 - snow chain, 18 - rear wheel.
3. SLAVE, engineer
