Malfunctions of ignition systems are always unpleasant, because each of them negatively affects the operation of the motor. The latter either stops, or stalls, or does not start at all. This development of events is known to many owners of old cars equipped with a distributor.
What is ASZ
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There may be several reasons for the absence of sparking. Most often, the distributor with its elements becomes the culprit. But no less well-known reasons are: a bad battery (battery), the armored wires themselves, the ignition box or its winding.
As you know, the ignition system of a car or ACZ is designed to effectively ignite fuel. It is clear that without a spark, there can be no ignition of any kind. It is not for nothing that ASZ gasoline engine also called a spark ignition system.
Depending on the type of process control, there are several gas stations. On domestic classics, for example, a contact ASZ is used, and on foreign cars - a transistor or electronic one.
The distributor in the contact ASZ plays the role of a current distributor, energy through the cylinders. At the same time, it acts as a current energy storage device.
If in the contact ASZ the accumulation and distribution is carried out in a single mechanism (distributor), then in the BASZ (transistor system), the switch is responsible for the accumulation, which clearly interacts with the Hall sensor. As for the distribution of energy, it is still controlled by the distributor.
Remarkably, in most cases, the spark disappears at the most inopportune moment. For example, if you urgently need to go somewhere in your car.
The old grandfather's way of "revitalizing" contact
Usually as it happens. Yesterday the car was fine, starting the first time. In the morning - as "dead". Any motorist who knows about cars will turn out the candles, inspect and check them first. There is no spark.
Further verification is carried out already on the reel. It is necessary to inspect the main armored conduit, whether current flows through it. No spark again?
Here's what to do:
- Check if current flows to the babin (coil).
- Check if there is voltage to the switch.
If there is voltage, but the spark does not go through the armored wire, the first doubt falls immediately on the babin. She is removed, checked thoroughly, ringed. Is she working? It would seem an opportunity? But this often happens. Don't panic.
And here the distributor itself comes to the fore, the distributor. It is dismantled, the hall sensor is removed, it is cleaned of oil (it happens that it gets inside).
As a rule, these actions are enough for a spark to reappear on cars with BSZ (contactless ignition system), where the distributor becomes the "culprit" of the voltage failure. And the reason that the spark has disappeared is either the ingress of oil into the sensor, or a weakened contact.
This often happens: the wires / communications connecting the switch and the distributor give an unreliable, loose contact. The old "old-fashioned" method of touching everything with your hands is 100 percent effective here. Thus, it is possible to "revive", "revive" the contact.
This method will help you save money on the purchase of a coil, hall sensor or switch. It is not uncommon for amateurs in car services, poorly versed in business, to send the car owner to the store for parts that are actually in perfect working order.
Searching for a spark
A spark in the distributor should appear between the contacts (between plus and ground). This is clearly visible if you remove the distributor cap.
You can check if there is a spark on the open distributor (with the cover removed) as follows: turn on the ignition (turn the key half a turn), go to the distributor, turn the slider several times (rotate it). In this case, a spark must necessarily appear between the contacts.
You can check if the current flows through the coil wire like this. Take a portable diagnostic tool (two wires with a light bulb). One wire clings to ground, and the second with a probe is placed on the distributor contact. If the light comes on, then there is current. It goes through the reel armored conduit 100%.
You can check the spark without the device.
- We remove the main armor wire of the coil.
- We take off the distributor cover.
- We turn on the ignition.
- We turn the slider, as in the above case, but look at the armored conduit.
- We see a spark.
In short, the process of finding a spark can be simplified if several checks are carried out in turn.
- Make sure the battery is in order. You can check it in different ways. It will be very effective to test the battery for the horn. In other words, beep - if the sound is strong, it means that the battery is in order, it gives out a normal current.
- Check armored wires. They should be examined carefully for insulation failure. It is recommended to be sure to check the spark plug wires lugs. They must be brought to the mass (of any part of the car body) by 5 mm, and then the ignition must be turned on. At the same time, the spark should strike brightly, it should be white and blue (provided that the candle is in order). If there is no spark, the search continues.
- Babin or coil is checked like this. The main armor wire is pulled out from the distributor cover (the one that goes to the coil). It is placed so that the tip does not touch anything, but is clearly visible. The starter turns on, if a spark appears at the end of the wire, the search for a spark must be continued. If there is no spark, the babin is faulty.
- Checking the distributor should begin with inspecting the cover. It is recommended, just in case, to rinse it with gasoline, and then inspect it for cracks. Be sure to inspect the center graphite rod of the cover. Check his work. And it is important to check the rotor unconditionally. If everything is in order with the distributor, the search automatically switches to the LV (low voltage) circuit.
- To check it, as a rule, a portable device with a 12-volt lamp is used. The power of the control indicator should not exceed 3 W. One end of the carrier is connected to the LV terminal of the distributor, the other - to the car mass. Now you need to turn on the ignition and check if the light is on. Normal mode - the indicator goes out when the contacts are closed and glows when the contacts are closed. If the light does not go out at all, then either the breaker contacts are strongly oxidized, or there is a wire break.
Power point vehicle does not start. Unfortunately, this situation is familiar to the overwhelming majority of domestic motorists. And the reasons, and, therefore, the solution to this problem lie in the operability of the ignition system of your car, or rather, in the operability of its individual elements. In particular, ignition coils. So, in the proposed article we will consider the malfunctions of the ignition coil, in which it is difficult or impossible to start the car engine, as well as the algorithm for checking its (coil) performance.
Ignition coil modern car, in fact, is a unified current converter.
Coming from battery Low voltage current is converted into high voltage current by this device and then supplied to spark plugs. Based on the functional purpose of this element, we will formulate the main features indicating failures in its work:
Difficult start power unit car.
Increased fuel consumption.
Violation of the stability of the engine in the "idle" mode.
Drop in power and work intensity power plant.
"Dips" when accelerating the car.
A sharp decrease in the number of revolutions and a stop of the power unit operating in the "idle" mode.
Termination of the cylinder group (1-4 or 2-3).
The procedure for checking the ignition coil, as a rule, begins with an external inspection. As a result of inspection, make sure that there are no traces of mechanical damage, cracks, black dots ("breakdowns"), oily stains and streaks on the coil. Thoroughly clean the device from dirt and dust, as their presence can cause high voltage leakage, which is unsafe. Carefully inspect the wires connected to the coil for damage or kinks, corrosion and oxidation.
The operation of the coil in the contact ignition system can be checked in the following way:
Troubles associated with interruptions in the ignition system of a car are often associated with serious problems in the operation of the engine and the inability to start it. How to understand why the spark between the electrodes of the candles is weak or for some reason it is not there? Any driver should know the answers to these questions, as problems in the ignition system can appear at any time and take you by surprise. In this case, you can be present in places from which the station Maintenance removed by tens of kilometers. Then you will have to personally solve the problems that have arisen. In this article, we will help answer the question: “Why did the spark disappear in the ignition system and how to fix it?” So that you can easily cope with this nuisance.
Troubleshooting
To find out why there is no spark, you first need to inspect the wires and blocks of the ignition system. If there are traces of oil, water or dirt, wipe them clean with a dry cloth. Then you try to start the car. If the problem is not resolved, then continue on. Namely, inspect high voltage wires. They must certainly be in perfect order, with the absence of any insulation violations. If you find "tattered" among them, you need to replace them with new ones.
If there is no positive result after revising the wires, try to check the stability of the contacts. To do this, you just need to crush them with your hands. If a spark does not appear, try to check the condition of the candles. They may have the following problems:
- short to ground;
- the low voltage circuit is damaged in the form of a broken wire;
- failure of the ignition coil;
- breaker-distributor malfunction.
To start looking for a spark in the wires of the candles, it is necessary to remove the tips from each of them. And bring them one by one, at a distance of less than one centimeter, to the nearest metal part of the car, which is not painted. In this case, turn on the starter for a couple of seconds. Immediately look at it and draw a conclusion from the sparks that appear from there. If they are frequent and bright white with a bluish tinge, then everything is normal. And the appearance of sparks of purple, red or yellow colors indicates a malfunction of the ignition system.
If there is still no spark, then start testing the ignition coil. To do this, having found the cover of the distributor-breaker, pull out the central wire from it from the coil. Check its sparks in a manner similar to checking the cross-sections. Their presence indicates that the coil is in good order, and the problem most likely lies in the breaker-distributor. In the absence of sparks, it can be concluded that the coil itself is malfunctioning. It may also indicate an open circuit in the low voltage circuit.
How to fix a breaker-distributor
We inspect the cover of the breaker-distributor from the inside. If there is no damage, wash it with gasoline. And if there are cracks, it must be replaced with a new one. To check the "freezing" of the central carbon contact, move it with your finger.
When checking the integrity of the rotor insulation, we lay out the rotor electrode from the central high-voltage wire with a gap. Then we turn on the ignition and by hand we close-open the breaker contacts. If sparks appear in the gap, it can be concluded that the rotor itself is faulty. In this case, it changes to a new one.
To test the low voltage circuit, you will need a "control" - this is a 12 volt light bulb with a power of up to three watts. We connect one wire to the lamp with the low voltage terminal, and the second with the car ground. Then we manually close the contacts of the breaker-distributor and turn on the ignition. In this case, if the circuit is in good condition, then with open contacts, the lamp will light up, but with closed contacts it will not. A lamp that goes out when it is opened indicates a malfunction of the primary winding of the ignition coil or its low voltage wires. Constant burning of the lamp, both when closing and when opening, indicates the following causes of the malfunction:
- Excessive oxidation of the breaker contacts. They need to be cleaned and the gap adjusted.
- Broken wire from the lever to the terminal.
- A break in the wire connecting the housing with the movable disk of the breaker-distributor.
Have a good road and less breakdowns.
The absence of a spark on the spark plugs is one of two basic faults most often found on cars (the other is). A missing spark or a weak spark on the spark plugs indicates a problem with the ignition system. Either in a high voltage circuit or low voltage. In this case, the car engine will not start at all (both cold and hot), or it will start and stall (if there is a spark, but weak). Consider the main reasons for the loss of a spark on carburetor engines cars VAZ 2105, 2107, 2108, 2109, 21099 with contact and contactless ignition systems.
Before troubleshooting, it is necessary to more specifically determine the culprit of the missing spark and conduct a visual inspection high-voltage wires, ignition coil and distributor. A banal central armored conduit that has jumped off the distributor cover, a loose connector or an oxidized (fallen off) terminal on the ignition coil will lead to the disappearance of the spark.
Then we remove the central high-voltage wire, insert a serviceable candle into its tip and put it on the engine (so that there is contact with the "ground"). While the assistant turns the engine with a starter, you need to visually make sure that there is no or presence of a spark on the spark plug. A spark appeared - themselves are faulty, high-voltage wires or an ignition distributor in the distributor. There was no spark, and there is still no - problems with the switch, Hall sensor, ignition coil.
Spark missing, reasons for a contactless ignition system
- The ignition coil has failed.
Checking the ignition coil. At the ignition coil, the winding resistance and insulation resistance are usually checked with a tester. For oil-filled coils (27.3705) and dry (3122.3707), the resistance is slightly different. More details:. In the absence of a special device for testing, we use the replacement method - our coil, for another, obviously working.
checking the primary winding of the ignition coil - The switch is defective.
Checked with an oscilloscope. Since not everyone has one, we use the replacement method - instead of our own switch, we install a known good one. It is very roughly possible to evaluate the performance of the switch according to the voltmeter readings after the ignition is turned on (see).
- Hall sensor defective.
It is checked with a voltmeter according to a special connection diagram (see). If there is no voltmeter, we use the replacement method.
- An open in the low voltage circuit.
In the contact ignition system, the list of malfunctions leading to the disappearance of the spark is as follows
- The mechanical breaker in the distributor is faulty.
Oxidized, destroyed or burnt his contacts. No between breaker contacts.
- Defective ignition coil.
- "Open" in the low voltage circuit.
Notes and additions
- To quickly find the cause of the disappearance of the spark on the spark plugs, you need to know the principle of operation of both contact and non-contact ignition systems (for more details, see "The principle of operation of the ignition system"). The elution of the ignition system consists in the formation of a high voltage current at the right time and supplying it to the spark plugs. This is done by interrupting the low voltage current in the primary circuit of the ignition coil. V contactless system the switch interrupts the current by a signal from the Hall sensor, into a contact mechanical breaker with contacts, driven by a square on the distributor shaft.
As you know, for the engine to work, two conditions are necessary: the presence of fuel and a spark, for its ignition. In cases where the spark disappears, the start of the power plant becomes impossible.
This applies to a situation where the spark disappears completely, but there may be no spark on individual cylinders, when the engine starts, there is an unstable, decrease in dynamics and against the background of an increase in fuel consumption.
The situations are different, as are the troubleshooting paths.
9 reasons why the spark is completely absent:
Spark plug
The electrodes of the spark plug can become covered with deposits, carbon deposits appear, sometimes completely covering the gap between the electrodes, breakdown of the insulator can occur, burnout of the electrodes and the spark plug fails.
Ignition coil
In the ignition coil, there may be an interturn short circuit or a winding break.
Distributor distributor
The contacts in the distributor may be faulty, the Hall sensor, a broken slider or a crack in the lid.
Egnition lock
The ignition switch may be defective contact Group(burning of contacts, melting of the plastic protrusion of the contact commutation control.
High voltage wires
The problem in the wires can be expressed in their cracking, burning of the inner core and breakdown of the outer insulation.
Hall Sensor
In a contactless ignition system, the Hall sensor is responsible for interrupting the spark, the failures of which are often caused by loosening the bolts of its fastening, or by the breakdown of the sensor itself.
In the photo - hall sensor
Crankshaft sensor
If there is no spark, then the wire of this cylinder is checked with a known good spark plug, and if a spark appears, then the problem is in the spark plug that was previously in the cylinder. A new candle is installed and the engine starts, if the cylinder is working, then the problem was in the candle, if not, then you need to check the compression in this cylinder, as well as the clearance in the valves of this cylinder (pinched valve clearances) to determine the cause of the malfunction.
In the case when there is no spark when checking a known good spark plug, you need to check the condition, the output to this cylinder in the distributor cover (a crack is possible).
On injection engines, it is not recommended to check the spark plugs by contacting them with ground, as the ECU and other electronic systems may fail. To test the spark on injection motors there are special devices - arresters, which are recommended to use.
Since spark plugs most often fail, we advise you to always have a spare kit so that you can quickly replace them on the way.
Summary
As you can see, the presence of knowledge about the structure and operation of the ignition system, as well as an automobile tester, will help any car owner identify and find a malfunction without contacting a car service.
