Possible malfunctions UAZ patriot. We restore the performance of UAZ cars. Other problems and malfunctions

UAZ Patriot- the best domestic frame SUV. The ideal ratio "price / quality" and almost the only a car with two bridges, produced to this day.

Love for the UAZ Patriot in Russia is immeasurable, and therefore, on secondary market you can easily find a decent copy, ready to conquer off-road. This article will discuss how to choose a decent SUV, devoid of major factory flaws.

What should you pay attention to first of all?

When examining the UAZ Patriot, it should be clearly understood that most likely this car drove off-road and carried heavy loads. Therefore, the closest attention should be paid to the suspension and chassis of the car. In order to correctly check the suspension, you need a lift, or a garage with a viewing hole.

Weaknesses UAZ Patriot (3163)

• bring the kingpin of the front;
• cardan shafts;
• Paintwork and anticorrosive;
• timing belt tensioner;
• independent increase in body lift and suspension;
• engine overheating.

Now more…

Front suspension pin

Already after 10-15 thousand kilometers, the kingpins begin to crumble, wheel play appears, which leads to unstable traffic on the road and the need for constant steering.
In order to determine the condition of the kingpins, it is enough to shake the wheel strongly by hand. If the play is noticeable and the wheel "walks" in the hands, then get ready for an early replacement of the kingpin.

This is interesting! Many experienced motorists immediately change the factory kingpins to bronze kingpins from the Waxoil company. These time-tested parts make the car reliable and stable on the track. So, if the inspected Patriot has bronze kingpins, the car was taken care of properly, and it was in the right hands.

cardan shafts.

UAZ cardans are very fond of leaking. And this also applies to unattended cardan shafts, which are installed on Patriots starting in 2015. From excessive loads, or a factory defect, oil flows out of the cardan shafts, and this guarantees their early failure.

Therefore, if oil smudges are noticeable on the cardans or, on the contrary, they are too clean (the oil that came out was simply erased), then there is a reason for serious bargaining.

Lacquer coating and anticorrosive.

Despite the victorious statements of the administration of the Ulyanovsk plant about high quality bodywork and painting, in fact, things are not so good. After 3-4 years of intensive use, the Patriot begins to desperately rot. In a mandatory manner, it is necessary to check corrosion at the joints of the wings and body, at the seams of the roof and in the area of ​​​​the windshield.

If spots of rust are present, then there is no doubt that the bottom of the car is covered with rust. You should inspect the bottom of the car. Did you see fresh anticorrosive from a stale car? Refuse to buy! The car rusted very seriously, and the rust was simply smeared with a fresh anti-corrosion coating.

This is interesting! Zealous owners make anticorrosive immediately after purchasing a car. And if a specialized Raptor coating is applied to the Patriot, then scratches and cracks are not terrible for him.

Start the Patriot and let it run for 20-30 minutes. If the engine temperature is within reasonable limits, everything is fine. If the temperature rises sharply and hot air begins to enter the car from the front armrest, then the cooling system is not working properly or not working at all.

Tension roller.

The chronic disease of the UAZ Patriot, for several years in a row, the quality of the timing belt tensioners leaves much to be desired. If you do not attend to the replacement of such a part in time, this can lead to serious engine damage. Therefore, it is necessary to ask the owner of the car whether he changed the rollers. In the event that the rollers are factory, they should be replaced by yourself.

Body lift or suspension.

An elevator (raising the body or suspension by 5 centimeters or more) is done in order to put huge mud wheels on the car. If such an improvement is made in "collective farm" conditions, without special equipment and competent specialists, then it will cause premature wear of the gearbox and engine. This will "kill" the Patriot in just 2-3 years. Of course, you should not buy such a “killed” car.

Typical disadvantages of UAZ Patriot

How to choose the right Patriot?

First of all, don't save money. Drive the car to the service station and order a complete diagnosis. Believe me, such a check will pay for itself completely! You definitely won't buy a pig in a poke. And if the owner refuses to go to the service station, then it is better to say goodbye to him, because such a Patriot is full of defects.
Be sure to drive a car for at least 20-30 kilometers. This The best way feel how the Patriot behaves on the road and listen to all the "crickets" in the cabin.

Desirable to have a thickness gauge paintwork. Thus, you can be sure whether the car was in an accident or not.

P.S. Dear UAZ drivers! We will be very grateful if you write in the comments below about the shortcomings and frequent breakdowns your car identified during operation.

Weaknesses and main disadvantages of UAZ Patriot with mileage was last modified: October 7th, 2019 by Administrator

ENGINE COLD
At least 6 hours have passed since the engine was switched off at an outside air temperature of +20°C and at least 3 hours at -20°C, the temperature of the oil in the engine crankcase coincides with the ambient temperature.

The methods for starting an engine with a fuel injection system are the same at any ambient temperature.

Useful advice
It is better to close the hood after the engine starts to work. Before this, it is advisable to once again inspect the engine, make sure that there are no leaks of fuel, oil, coolant, extraneous sounds in his work.

If the engine does not start, there are three main reasons:

The start system does not work;

The ignition system does not work;

The power system is not working.

1. Open the hood by pulling the handle of its lock drive.

2. Use a dipstick to measure the oil level. It should be between the "0" and "P" marks.

3. Check the brake and coolant levels.

5. Carefully inspect the engine and engine compartment. Pay attention to drips of gasoline, oil, brake and coolant fluids. Make sure the electrical wiring is intact. Check fit high voltage wires in sockets of ignition modules, on candles
6. Turn on the ignition by turning the key in the ignition switch (lock) to the position

ENGINE WARM OR HOT
The oil temperature in the crankcase is higher than the ambient temperature.
To start, just turn on the starter without touching the accelerator pedal. Engine management system
independently sets the fuel supply and ignition parameters necessary for starting.
Useful advice
If, for any reason, an injection engine has spark plugs “filled” during an unsuccessful start attempt, use the cylinder “purge” mode. to do this, press the accelerator pedal to the stop and turn on the starter. In this mode, there is no fuel supply and excess gasoline is removed from the cylinders by a stream of fresh air, while the spark plugs are dried. After purging, try starting again in the normal way.
If the engine does not start, there are three main reasons:

The start system does not work;

The ignition system does not work;

The power system is not working.

Start system malfunctions

Malfunctions in the starting system are manifested in the abnormal operation of the starter. There are five main starter malfunctions.
1. The starter does not turn on.

The reason is a violation of the contact connections, an open or short circuit in the starter switching circuits, a malfunction of the additional starter switching relay, a malfunction of the traction relay.
2. When the starter is turned on, multiple clicks are heard.

The reason is a malfunction of the holding winding of the traction relay, the battery is very discharged, the contact connections in the starter circuit are loose.

3. The starter turns on, but its armature either does not rotate or rotates slowly.

The reason is that the battery is discharged, the contact connections are broken, the contacts of the traction relay are burnt, the collector is dirty or the brushes are worn out, interturn short circuit in the windings.
4. The starter turns on, its armature rotates, but the flywheel remains stationary.

The reason is the weakening of the starter attachment to the clutch housing, damage to the teeth of the flywheel or drive gear, sintering of the contacts of the traction relay, slipping of the drive freewheel, breakage of the lever, drive ring or buffer spring of the starter drive.
5. The starter does not turn off after starting the engine.

The reason is a malfunction of the starter freewheel, sintering of the contacts of the traction relay. In the event of such a malfunction, stop the engine immediately! These malfunctions require qualified intervention in a car service or upon arrival at the garage. Beforehand, you can only check the degree of discharge of the battery using a voltmeter in the instrument cluster or using an autotester ... and the tightness of the contact connections in the starter circuit.

IGNITION SYSTEM CHECK

Your vehicle is equipped with a High Energy Smart Ignition System (MPIS). A voltage of approximately 40,000 V is applied to the high-voltage wires. Although it is not life-threatening at a low current strength, a possible electric shock when checking the ignition system can lead to serious consequences. Therefore, if you take on a high-voltage wire with the ignition on, use a thick rubber glove or, in extreme cases, pliers with insulated handles.

You will need: flat and Phillips screwdrivers, pliers with insulated handles,
1. With the ignition off, check the integrity and fit of the high-voltage wires in the ignition coils.
2. Check up sockets of a plait of wires of the block of management MPSZ.
3. Use a car tester to check high voltage wires. Remove any high voltage wire, connect an autotester to the high voltage wire leads and measure the resistance. It should be 5.7-5.9 kOhm. If the resistance is below the specified value, replace the high voltage wire, check the other wires in the same way.
Useful advice.
If there is no autotester at hand, you can try to install non-new, but obviously good high-voltage wires from the “working machine”.

4. Insert into the tip of the wire into the spare spark plug and press it with a metal part to the "mass" of the car. Turn the engine crankshaft with the starter.
5. If there is no spark, check the ignition coils. If there is spark but the engine does not start, replace the spark plugs with new ones. You can also try to install not new ones, but proven ones, from the “working machine” beforehand.
6. If after that the engine does not start, check the engine management system for fault codes.

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UAZ-469 engine does not start

Probable cause of failure	Remedy
1. No supply or insufficient supply of gasoline:
clogged strainers in the fuel tank intake pipe, carburetor, fuel pump or fine fuel filter	Wash the filters in gasoline, blow with compressed air
clogged fuel filter	Wash the filter element in gasoline, blow with compressed air
clogged fuel line	Blow out the fuel line with compressed air
fuel pump valves clogged or diaphragm damaged	Check fuel pump and repair
frozen water in fuel line or filter sump	Warm up with hot water
the float or fuel supply valve is stuck in the closed position	Eliminate jamming, flush valve and blow with compressed air
clogged air holes in the fuel filler cap	Clean the holes in the cork
2. Poor combustible mixture (pops in the carburetor):
the level of gasoline in the float chamber is lowered
air damper does not close completely (when starting the engine)	Adjust damper actuator
clogged fuel jets	Blow out jets with compressed air
air leak in the intake pipe connections	Tighten the fastening of the connections, if necessary, replace the gaskets
the fuel pump drive lever is worn out, the elasticity of the diaphragm spring has decreased	Check fuel pump, repair
3. Rich combustible mixture ("shots" in the muffler):
increased level of gasoline in the float chamber	Adjust the level of gasoline
choke closed (when starting the engine)	Open the air damper; blow out the engine cylinders by turning the crankshaft with the throttle and choke open
float or fuel valve stuck open	Eliminate the jam
float seal broken	Solder or replace the float
the tightness of the fuel supply valve is broken	Replace valve
economizer valve leaking	Replace valve
quality screw adjusted to a rich mixture (at minimum idle speed)	Adjust mixture to low idle
4. Water got into the cylinders:
blown cylinder head gasket	Replace cylinder head gasket
crack or pit in the cylinder head or block	Replace head or cylinder block
Loose cylinder head nuts	Tighten the cylinder head nuts
5. Malfunctions of ignition devices	See "Possible malfunctions of ignition devices and how to eliminate them"

All new UAZ Patriot models are equipped with an ECU at the factory. This allows the vehicle systems to work with higher accuracy, as well as to diagnose components using standard tools. If the car is not equipped with an on-board computer, you can purchase one and install it yourself. At the moment, two main types of BC are most common: Prestige and Multitroniks. These models allow you to read the main types of computer errors and display them on the display.

By default, all errors that occur during the operation of electronic systems are recorded in the ECU log and can only be viewed using special equipment at the service station. The most critical ones are displayed on the control panel as a CheckEngine icon. In this case, the car, as a rule, shows serious malfunctions and requires urgent repair. Installation of BC allows you to solve minor problems in a timely manner, without leading to breakdowns. In addition, the on-board computer has a function to reset some errors. They sometimes occur during the operation of the car, but are insignificant and do not require elimination, but as a result, some systems may be disabled.

Error codes

Consider the algorithm for working with BC using the example of the Prestige device line. To display the system status on the device display, enter the MAINTENANCE menu and select the ERRORS / DIAGNOSTICS section. When codes appear, you can read them or reset them.

Group 04

• 0420 - indicates a malfunction of the catalyst. It is most likely clogged and prevents the normal exit of exhaust gases. Most often occurs with Euro 2.3 and 4 engines.
• 0443 - malfunctioning adsorber valve
• 0445.0444 - short circuit of the absorber valve wiring
• 0480 - problems with the operation of 1 fan
• 0481 - malfunction 2 fans

Group 03

These codes basically describe ignition system problems. Among them, the most common are:

• 0301-0304 The error number corresponds to the number of the cylinder that has the misfire. The usual reason for the appearance is clogging, incorrectly set clearance, and so on.
• 0327 - Incorrect operation of the knock sensor
• 0335 - crankshaft sensor malfunction
• 0340 - phase sensor error. Usually appears as a result of oxidation inside the sensor. To fix a malfunction, sometimes it is enough to remove it and rinse it with a special rust converter. The element is located on the cylinder block. If after cleaning the error repeats, this indicates its failure.

Group 01

This series of codes is responsible for malfunctions of a large number of sensors, for example:

• DMRV;
• coolant temperature.

The most common is p0106. It signals a malfunction of the intake manifold pressure sensor. There are several main reasons for its appearance and ways to eliminate it:

• Oxidation of contacts, in this case it is necessary to treat them with a solvent or a special spray.
• Blockage in the air supply pipe. In this case, in addition to special flushing agents, for example, for carburetors, use a steel cable for mechanical cleaning. At the same time, its thickness should not exceed 0.8 mm.

After fixing the problem, the error must be reset and checked if it reappeared after starting the engine. If it occurs again, check the electronic components or perform a more thorough cleaning.

Useful video:

Error 0704

May be due to a problem with the clutch. The ECU can read an error if the pedal switch breaks. One reason could be a weakened return spring. It is necessary to check the entire node and only then reset the BC.

Troubleshooting

The description of diagnostics of electronic control systems and codes of malfunctions are given in the Chapter Engine Electrical Systems.

This section proposes the simplest scheme for finding out the causes of malfunctions and failures occurring in vehicle components and systems. Failures and their possible causes are grouped according to their relation to certain components or systems of the vehicle, such as engine, cooling system, etc., in addition, the text provides links to chapters and sections related to these problems.

Remember that the successful completion of troubleshooting is determined by the integrity of a combination of good knowledge and a patient, systematic approach to investigating the problem. You should always move from simple to complex, bring each check to its logical conclusion and try not to miss the obvious facts - anyone can forget to fill the fuel tank or leave the lights on at night.

And finally, you should always try to get a clear picture of the development of the malfunction and take appropriate steps to prevent recurrence. If the failure of the electrical equipment occurred due to a violation of the quality of the contact, check at the same time the condition of all other contacts and electrical connectors of the system. If the same fuse has blown several times in a row, there is no point in replacing it further - try to find out the cause of the failure. Remember that the failure of a minor component may be a sign of a malfunction of a more important node or the entire system.

Engine

Mandatory conditions for starting any gasoline engine are the correct supply of the air-fuel mixture to the cylinders and timely sparking on the spark plugs.

First of all, you should make sure that the fuel supply is working properly.

To determine if a spark is formed, unscrew the spark plugs, insert them into the tips and individually apply to the mass. In this case, do not hold the wire or tip with your hands - use insulated pliers. Have an assistant start the engine. If there is no spark, try to determine the cause of the failure.

Engine won't crank when trying to start it

1. The battery is discharged or defective. If the wire lugs are not oxidized and are securely attached to the battery terminals, turn the ignition key to the "ON" position, then turn on the headlights and / or windshield wipers - if they do not function, the battery is dead.
2. The transmission is not correctly set to the "P" position.
3. The starter gear is wedged in the ring gear of the drive disk.
4. Faulty starter relay.
5. Starter defective.
6. Faulty ignition switch.

Engine cranks but won't start

1. Startup is incorrect. Act in accordance with Section Starting the engine and driving.
2. Faulty or disabled engine immobilizer.
3. Faulty fuel pump safety switch.
4. The fuel tank is empty, or
5. The air filter is heavily soiled. There are vacuum leaks in the air supply elements, malfunctions in the fuel injection and ignition control system.
6. Low battery (engine cranks too slowly).
7. The battery terminals are oxidized or the wire lugs are loose on them.
8. The fuel pump is faulty, or its relay is damaged - check by ear that the pump is turned on when the ignition is turned on.
9. Damaged or excessively wet components of the ignition system.
10. Worn or defective spark plugs, or incorrectly set spark plug gap.
11. An open in the starting system circuit.
12. The wiring to the ignition coil is broken or disconnected, or the wires are loose at the coil terminals.
13. The fuse of the engine control unit is damaged, any of the sensors of the engine management system is faulty.
14. Low compression pressure.

The starter operates without cranking the engine

1. Starter gear stuck.

Difficulty starting a cold engine

see also A cold engine does not start well and runs erratically.

1. Low battery.

Difficulty starting a hot engine

see also A warm engine does not start well, it is unstable.

1. Air filter clogged.
2. Faulty components of the power system or electrical equipment.
3. Fuel is not getting to the injectors.
4. Insufficient compression in the cylinders.

Starter engagement is too noisy or difficult

1. Worn or damaged starter gear teeth or drive disc ring.
2. Lost or insufficiently tightened starter mounting bolts.

Engine starts but immediately stalls

1. Faulty engine immobilizer.
2. The wiring is faulty, or the wires are loose at the terminals of the ignition coil or generator.
3. Faulty components of the power system or electrical equipment.
4. The basic settings of the engine control unit (ECM) are violated.
5. There is damage in the exhaust system and reduce the toxicity of exhaust gases (EG).

The stability of the engine at idle is broken

1. There are vacuum losses. Make sure that the fasteners are securely tightened, check the fact and quality of fastening on your fittings on the inlet pipeline of all vacuum hoses. Listen to the running engine with a stethoscope or a piece of fuel hose - a hissing sound indicates a leak. Equally effective is the use of a soapy solution for testing.
2. The patency of the valve of the controlled crankcase ventilation (PCV) system is broken.
3. Air filter blocked.
4. The fuel pump is not supplying enough fuel to the injectors.
5. There are leaks through the cylinder head gasket, - measure the compression in the engine cylinders (see Chapter Engine).
6. Camshaft lobes worn out.

Cylinder misfiring at idle

1. Worn or dirty spark plugs or incorrect spark plug gap.
2. Low-quality fuel is filled, or the fuel filter is blocked.
3. There is a loss of vacuum in the intake manifold or through the hose connections.
4. The operation of the engine control system is disrupted.

There are gaps in the operation of the engine cylinders when the vehicle is moving in gear

1. The fuel filter is clogged or the power system is contaminated.
2. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment.
3. Faulty I/O wiring.
4. Components of system of decrease in toxicity of the fulfilled gases are faulty.
5. Low or different compression in the cylinders.
6. Faulty ignition system.
7. There is vacuum loss at the throttle body, intake manifold, or through the vacuum hoses.

The engine spontaneously stalls

1. Idle speed control broken.
2. The patency of the fuel filter is broken, or moisture or dirt has got into the power system.
3. There is a failure of the components / information sensors of the power system.
4. Components of systems of decrease in toxicity of the fulfilled gases are faulty.
5. Faulty or dirty spark plugs or incorrect spark plug gap.
6. There is vacuum loss at the throttle body or through the vacuum hoses.

The engine does not develop full power

1. There is a malfunction of the components of the power system or electrical equipment.
2. Air cleaner clogged.
3. Faulty spark plugs or incorrect spark plug gap.
4. Faulty ignition coil.
5. Dropped ATF level (see Chapter Vehicle settings and routine maintenance).
6. Transmission slips.
7. Clogged fuel filter and/or dirt/moisture in the fuel system.
8. Filled with poor quality fuel.
9. Low or different compression in the cylinders.

There are pops in the intake system or shots in the exhaust system

1. The functioning of the components of the power system or electrical equipment is broken.
2. There is a defect in the secondary circuit of the ignition system (destruction of spark plug insulators or damaged I/O wires).
3. The fuel injection system needs to be adjusted, or its components are excessively worn.
4. There is vacuum loss at the throttle body, intake manifold, or through the vacuum hoses.
5. Seizes valves.
6. I/O wire connection is out of order.

Detonation sounds occur when accelerating or going uphill

1. Filled with poor quality fuel.
2. Faulty components of the power system or electrical equipment.
3. Wrong type spark plugs installed.
4. The basic settings of the ECM are violated.
5. Faulty knock sensor.
6. There are vacuum losses.

The engine continues to run after the key is turned to the "OFF" position

1. Excessively high idle speed.
2. There is a malfunction of the electrical equipment or components of the engine management system.
3. Defective EVAP canister purge valve.
4. High engine operating temperature (coolant level has dropped, the thermostat is faulty, the radiator is clogged or the water pump is faulty).
5. The tightness of the injectors is broken.

Engine electrical equipment

Decreased capacity or insufficient battery power

1. The alternator drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension adjustment is broken.
2. The electrolyte level is insufficient or the battery is badly discharged.
3. The battery terminals are oxidized or the wire lugs are loose on them.
4. The alternator does not provide the required charging current.
5. An open circuit in the wiring of the charging circuit.
6. A short to ground in the electrical wiring creates a permanent leakage of current generated by the battery.
7. There is an internal defect in the battery.

The charging indicator lamp does not go out when the rpm is increased

1. Loose drive belt tension.
2. Damaged voltage regulator and/or alternator. Disconnect the wire (D+) from the back of the alternator and turn on the ignition. Next, check the condition of the generator voltage regulator.
3. Worn alternator brushes.
4. Damaged wire between generator and voltage regulator.

The charging indicator lamp does not light up when the key is turned to the "ON" position

1. The control lamp is out of order.
2. Generator defective.
3. There is a defect in the printed circuit board, wiring inside the instrument cluster unit or lamp socket.

The charging indicator lamp does not go out when the key is turned to the "OFF" position

1. Broken diodes.

• If the starter does not turn, first make sure that there is voltage at terminal No. 50 of the traction relay (minimum 10 V). If negative, check the condition of the starter circuit wiring.
• To check that the starter operates properly at full battery voltage, do the following:
• Without gearing, turn the key to the "ON" position;
• Bridge terminals 30 and 50 of the starter with a wire with a cross section of at least 4 mm 2.
• If the starter works flawlessly, the cause of the malfunction should be sought in the wires to the starter. If the starter does not work, it should be checked in the removed state.

Starter does not rotate when key is turned to "START" position

1. Low battery.
2. Bridge terminals 30 and 50 of the starter: if the starter rotates, check the wire 50 connected to the ignition switch for an open, also evaluate the condition of the starter switch.
3. The ground wire is broken, or the quality of its terminal connection is broken.
4. The weakening of the current strength due to a violation of the quality or oxidation of the contact connections.
5. There is no voltage at terminal 50 of the traction relay as a result of a broken electrical wiring or damage to the starter switch.

The starter rotates slowly and does not turn the crankshaft

1. Low battery.
2. Filled with summer oil.
3. The passage of current is difficult due to poor-quality contacts.
4. The carbon brushes are loose on the commutator, stuck in the guides, worn, broken, oily or dirty.
5. Insufficient distance between brushes and commutator.
6. Collector in grooves or burnt and oily.
7. No voltage at terminal 50 (minimum 8 V).
8. Broken bearing.
9. Faulty traction relay.

The starter "grabs", but provides only jerky cranking of the engine

1. Defective gear drive.
2. The gear is dirty.
3. The gear ring of the drive disk is damaged.

Starter gear does not disengage from flywheel/drive plate ring gear

1. Dirty or damaged gear drive components.
2. Faulty traction relay.
3. The return spring is weak or broken.

The starter continues to work after releasing the ignition key

1. The traction relay is jammed - immediately turn off the ignition and replace the traction relay.
2. The ignition lock does not turn off - disconnect the battery, replace the lock.

Supply system

Excessive fuel consumption

1. Air filter dirty or clogged.
2. Insufficient tire inflation pressure or wrong size tires fitted.
3. The engine has mechanical damage. Check the compression, if necessary, make the appropriate reconditioning.
4. Excessively high idle speed and maximum crankshaft speed.
5. Malfunctions of components of the power system, electrical equipment or electronic control.
6. Leaks in the air intake system.
7. Damage to the exhaust system and reduced exhaust emissions.

There are fuel leaks and/or the smell of gasoline

1. There are leaks in the fuel lines or vent lines.
2. The fuel tank is full. Refuel only until the gun automatically shuts off.
3. There are leaks/evaporation from the lines of power supply systems and reduction of exhaust gas toxicity.

Engine won't start

1. When the starter is turned on, the fuel pump does not work (no noise from operation is heard). Tap the pump body lightly to loosen the stuck part. Check the correctness of the voltage supply to the pump (check the fuse and the reliability of the fastening of the contact terminals of the corresponding electrical wiring).
2. Faulty fuel pump relay.
3. No signal from ignition sensor or ECT sensor. Check the condition of its electrical wiring, poll the memory of the OBD II system.
4. Fuel lines damaged, clogged or leaking, hoses defective.
5. Fuel filter clogged.
6. Vacuum pipes are damaged, or there is a violation of the tightness of their fit.
7. Damaged fuel pressure regulator - check residual pressure.
8. Damaged throttle position sensor (TPS).
9. No power to ECM.
10. Clogged fuel tank ventilation, clogged filter in the tank.

Cold engine starts badly, works unstably

1. The CO content is out of specification - measure accordingly, check idle speed.
2. Faulty ECT sensor.
3. The fuel pressure does not match the required value.
4. Excess air is sucked into the intake tract as a result of leakage.

A warm engine does not start well, runs erratically

1. Leaky air intake system. Check intake system. To do this, leave the engine to idle and moisten the seals and connections on the intake tract with gasoline. If the speed increases for a short time, repair leaks.
2. Damaged fuel pump check valve.
3. Leaks in the fuel system.
4. Increased fuel pressure in the power system.
5. Malfunction of the EVAP system.
6. Clogged or kinked fuel return line to tank.
7. Stuck injector valves. Check injectors, replace if necessary. Check the voltage supply to the injectors.
8. No signal from Hall ignition sensor or coolant temperature sensor. Check the condition of the relevant electrical wiring, interrogate the OBD II system.
9. Excess air is sucked into the intake tract as a result of leakage.
10. Damaged TPS sensor.
11. No power to ECM.

Engine runs intermittently

1. The fuel pump wiring connections are broken from time to time. Check wiring connectors and fuses for fuel pump, MAF sensor and fuel pump relay.
2. Poor fuel quality, vapor lock formation.
3. Weak fuel supply.
4. Fuel filter defective.
5. Fuel pump defective.
6. Faulty injectors.
7. The lambda probe is faulty, there are disturbances in the mixture quality control circuit or there is no heating of the lambda probe.
8. Faulty TPS.
9. The exhaust manifold or the exhaust pipe of the exhaust system is damaged (there are exhaust gas leaks).
10. Malfunction of the EVAP system.
11. Stuck injector valves. Check injectors, replace if necessary. Check the voltage supply to the injectors.
12. No signal from Hall ignition sensor or ECT sensor. Check wiring, poll ECM memory for trouble codes.
13. Excess air is sucked into the intake tract as a result of leakage.
14. Damaged or leaking vacuum lines
15. Pressure regulator damaged - check residual pressure.
16. No power to ECM.

The engine runs intermittently during transients and at idle

1. Leaky air intake system. Check intake system connections. Start the engine and moisten the connections of the suction tract components with gasoline. If the engine speed briefly increases, eliminate the cause of the leak.
2. Incorrect idle adjustment. Check TPS and lambda adjustment.

Hot engine won't start

1. Incorrect adjustment of the CO content. Check CO content and idle speed.
2. Too high pressure in the fuel system - check the fuel pressure, if necessary, replace the pressure regulator.
3. Clogged or bent return line between pressure regulator and fuel tank. Clean or replace piping.
4. Faulty engine temperature sensor.
5. The tightness of the power supply system is broken.
6. The tightness of the intake air duct is broken.

Lubrication system

The control lamp does not light up when the key is turned to the "ON" position

1. Defective oil pressure sensor. Turn on the ignition, disconnect the wire from the sensor and short it to ground - if the lamp lights up, replace the sensor.
2. The sensor is not energized, the contacts are corroded - check the condition of the relevant wiring.
3. The control lamp is faulty.
4. Faulty instrument cluster.

The control lamp does not go out after starting the engine

1. The oil is overheated. If the control lamp goes out after applying gas, nothing needs to be done.

The control lamp does not go out after applying gas, or lights up while driving

1. The oil level has dropped.
2. There is a short circuit in the wiring of the oil level sensor.
3. Sensor defective.

Too low oil pressure at all speeds

1. The oil level has dropped.
2. The strainer of the oil pick-up in the oil pan is clogged.
3. Worn oil pump.
4. Damaged crankshaft bearings.

Too low oil pressure at low speeds

1. Pressure reducing valve stuck open due to contamination.

Oil pressure too high at engine speeds above 2000 rpm

1. Pressure reducing valve does not open due to contamination.

Cooling system

Overheat

1. The coolant level has dropped.
2. The water pump drive belt is worn or damaged or its tension adjustment is broken.
3. The internal channels of the radiator are clogged or the radiator grille is dirty (blocked).
4. Faulty thermostat.
5. Broken or cracked fan blades.
6. Faulty fan switch.
7. Faulty coolant temperature gauge.
8. Water pump defective.
9. The radiator cap does not hold pressure - check the cap under pressure.

hypothermia

1. Faulty thermostat.
2. Inaccurate temperature readings.

External coolant leaks

1. The hoses are damaged or destroyed as a result of aging of the material or their fastening on the fittings has loosened.
2. The seals of the water pump are damaged, - the coolant oozes through the control hole in the pump housing.
3. There are leaks from the internal channels of the radiator or tank.
4. There are leaks from the engine drain plug or water gallery squeeze plugs.

Internal coolant leaks

1. There are leaks through the cylinder head gasket - perform a pressure test of the cooling system.
2. There are cracks in the cylinder walls or in the head casting.

Loss of coolant occurs

1. An excessive amount of coolant (coolant) has been charged into the system.
2. Coolant boils away as a result of engine overheating.
3. There are internal or external coolant leaks.
4. Radiator cap defective - check the cap with pressure.

Coolant circulation interrupted

1. The water pump is not functioning properly. The easiest way to verify the operation of the pump is to pinch the upper radiator hose while the engine is idling. If a push of liquid is felt inside the hose when the hose is released, the pump is functioning properly.
2. The patency of the cooling system is broken - flush it and fill it with fresh liquid. If necessary, remove the radiator and backflush it.
3. The water pump drive belt is worn or damaged or its tension adjustment is broken.
4. Stuck thermostat.

heater

Heater fan not working

1. The fan e/motor fuse is defective.
2. Faulty fan switch - check if voltage is applied to the pre-resistors, remove and check the fan switch.
3. The e/motor of the fan is faulty. Check if it is receiving voltage with the ignition on and the fan switch closed - if voltage is supplied, replace the motor.

The heater fan does not work on one of the stages

1. Faulty preresistor.

The heater is not switched off by the regulator

1. Switch defective.
2. Control mixing flap cables are damaged or not movable.

Heating power too low

1. Insufficient coolant level.
2. The heater control handles are hard to move - check the control assembly, if necessary, replace the corresponding drive cable.

Noise in the heater fan area

1. Dirt, leaves got in - remove the fan and clean it, clean the air channel.
2. Impeller out of balance, damaged bearing.

Automatic transmission (AT)

Due to the complexity of the AT design, it is advisable to carry out diagnostics of its malfunctions and repair of components in a car service workshop.

General problems associated with the functioning of the switching mechanism

1. Among the failures associated with a violation of the adjustment of the shift rod are the following:
   • The engine can be started in transmission positions other than “P” and “N”;
   • The transmission position indicator reading is different from the actual gear selected;
   • The vehicle is moving with the transmission in the “P” or “N” position;
   • Transfers are switched with difficulty or arbitrarily.
2. Adjust the shift rod.

The transmission slips, shifts with difficulty, makes extraneous noises or does not provide movement of the car when set to one of the gears

1. There are many possible causes of the problems listed in the title, but only one of them falls under the competence of an amateur mechanic - the wrong level of transmission fluid (ATF).
2. Before driving the car to a car service workshop, check the ATF level and condition. Correct the ATF level or change it.

There are transmission fluid (ATF) leaks

1. ATF is dark red in color. Traces of its leaks should not be confused with traces of impellent oil, which can be carried onto the transmission crankcase by the oncoming air flow.
2. To identify and locate the source of the leak, first remove all traces of dirt and grease from the transmission boat. Use a suitable degreaser and/or steam clean. Then take the car for a short drive at low speed (so that the traces of the leak are not carried away by the oncoming flow far from its source). Stop, jack up the vehicle, and visually inspect the source of the leak. Most often these are:

• Transmission oil pan, - tighten the fixing bolts and/or replace the oil pan gasket;
• ATF filling tube, - replace the rubber seal at the point where the tube enters the transmission housing;
• ATF lines, - tighten fittings or replace lines;
• Ventilation tube - transmission is overfilled and / or water has entered it.

ATF is brown or smells like burning

1. Insufficient ATF level.

Kickdown mode does not turn on when the pedal is fully depressed (downshift does not turn on)

1. Dropped ATF level.
2. Faulty engine management system.
3. Faulty sensor-switch or its wiring.
4. Adjustment of a drive cable of the selector is broken.

The engine does not start in any position of the selector or starts in positions other than "P" and "R"

1. The adjustment of the sensor-switch of permission to start is violated.
2. Selector cable out of adjustment.

Transmission slips, jerks or noises when shifting gears. The car does not move when you turn on the "D" or "R" modes

1. Dropped ATF level.
2. The sensor or its wiring is faulty.
3. The correct functioning of the engine management system is broken.

extraneous noise

1. Ordinary road noise - can not be adjusted.
2. Tire noise - check the condition of the treads and tire inflation pressure.
3. Worn or damaged wheel bearings or loose torque.

vibrations

1. Check the condition of the wheel bearings by alternately jacking up the appropriate corner of the vehicle and rotating the wheel by hand. Listen for sounds coming from the bearing. Remove the bearings and check their condition.

Oil leaks

1. Damaged differential seals.

Brake system

Increased brake pedal travel

1. The working circuit of the brake path is damaged - check the system for leaks.

Brake pedal springs and falls

1. Air got into the brake path - bleed the system.
2. The liquid level in the GTZ tank has dropped, - make the appropriate adjustment, pump the system.
3. The formation of steam bubbles. It appears mainly when the brakes are heavily loaded. Change the brake fluid, remove air from the system.

Decreased braking effect, pedal fails

1. The tightness of the hydraulic path is broken.
2. Cuffs in the main or working brake cylinders are damaged.

Poor braking despite high pedal pressure

1. Oiled brake pads.
2. Incorrect or hardened pads installed.
3. The brake booster is faulty.
4. Worn brake pads.

Vehicle pulls to one side when braking

1. Tire inflation pressure not correct.
2. Protectors unevenly worn.
3. Oiled brake pads.
4. Different brake pads are installed on the same axle.
5. Excessively worn brake pads.
6. The caliper shafts are dirty.
7. Pads worn unevenly.

Spontaneous braking

1. The compensation hole in the main brake cylinder (GTZ) is clogged.

Brakes get hot while driving

1. The compensation hole in the main brake cylinder is clogged.
2. Insufficient clearance between the drive rod and the GTZ piston.

The brakes are shaking

1. Wrong pads installed.
2. The brake disc is corroded in places.

Brake pads do not move away from the brake disc, the wheel is difficult to turn by hand

1. Corrosion in brake caliper cylinders. Repair or replace the caliper.

Uneven pad wear

1. Incorrect pads installed. Replace pads.
2. Calipers are damaged by corrosion - replace.
3. The piston stroke is difficult.
4. The tightness of the path of the brake system is broken.

Wedge-shaped brake pad wear

1. Calipers are damaged by corrosion - replace.
2. Piston malfunction.

Screeching brakes

1. Often the cause is atmospheric influence (air humidity). If a creak appears after a long stay in high humidity and then disappears, nothing needs to be done.
2. Incorrect pads installed.
3. The brake disc does not rotate parallel to the caliper.
4. The caliper shaft is dirty.
5. Pad springs bent.
6. Stretched compression springs.

Pulsation of the brake pedal

1. A sign of normal ABS operation.
2. Excessive brake disc runout.
3. The brake disc does not rotate parallel to the caliper.

The ABS warning light comes on while driving

1. Insufficient supply voltage (below 10 V). Check voltage. Check if the generator control lamp goes out after starting the engine. If everything is in order, check the alternator drive belt.

Suspension and steering

Vehicle pulls to one side when moving

1. Tires unevenly inflated.
2. Tires are defective.
3. Front wheel alignment required.
4. The front brakes are stuck.

Jerks, jerks or vibrations occur

1. The wheel balance is broken or the ovality of the discs has appeared.
2. The wheel bearings are worn, the tightening force is loose or the adjustment is broken.
3. Worn or damaged shock absorbers or other suspension components.

There is excessive swaying/bumping of the nose when cornering or braking

1. Suspension struts are faulty.
2. Damaged suspension components.

Steering wheel too tight

1. The fluid level in the power steering reservoir (GUR) has dropped excessively.
2. Tires incorrectly inflated.
3. Insufficiently lubricated steering gear joints.
4. The adjustment of the angles of installation of the front wheels is violated.
5. GUR does not develop the required power.

There is excessive steering play

1. The tightening force of the front wheel bearings has weakened.
2. Suspension or steering components are excessively worn.

Power steering does not develop due effort

1. The power steering pump drive belt is worn or damaged, or its tension adjustment is broken.
2. The power steering fluid level has dropped too much.
3. The patency of the hoses or lines of the hydraulic system is broken.
4. Air got into the power steering - pump the system.

There is excessive tread wear (not in one area)

1. Tires incorrectly inflated.
2. Wheel balance out of alignment.
3. Wheel rims damaged.
4. Suspension or steering components are excessively worn.

Excessive tread wear on outer edge

1. Tires incorrectly inflated.
2. Too sharp turns.
3. The adjustment of the angles of installation of the front wheels is violated (excessive convergence).
4. Bent or twisted suspension arm.

Excessive tread wear on the inside edge

1. Tires incorrectly inflated.
2. Violated adjustment of the angles of the front wheels (divergence).
3. Steering components damaged or loose.

There is localized tread wear

1. Wheel balance out of alignment.
2. Damaged or bent discs.
3. Tires are defective.

Wiper blade defects

slippage

1. Rubber working elements are dirty.
2. The edges of the brushes are frayed, the rubber working elements are worn or torn.

In the cleaning field, the remaining water immediately collects in drops

1. The windshield is dirty with lacquer polish or oil.

The brush cleans one-sidedly - one side is good, the other is not.

1. The rubber working element has one-sided wear.
2. The wiper arm is twisted, the blade does not fit exactly on the glass.

Uncleaned surfaces

1. The reliability of fixing the working element in the brush frame is broken.
2. The brush does not adhere to the glass evenly.
3. Lever pressure too low - lightly lubricate wiper arm pivots and springs or install a new arm.

Tire defects

Heavy tire wear on both sides of the running surface

1. Tire pressure too low.

Strong tire wear in the middle of the working surface around the entire circumference of the tread

1. Too high tire pressure.

Uneven tread wear

1. Static and dynamic imbalance of the wheel, possibly due to excessive lateral runout of the disc, too much play in the bearing joints.

Uneven wear in the middle of the tread

1. Static wheel imbalance, possibly due to excessive vertical runout.

Strong wear of individual sections in the middle of the tread working surface

1. The result of hard braking.

Sawtooth tread wear, often along with an invisible tear in the tire's fabric base

1. Vehicle overload. Check the condition of the inner walls of the tires.

Rubber tabs on the side edges of the tread (scaly wear)

1. The wheel alignment is out of alignment.
2. Tires worn out.
3. Defective shock absorbers/torsion springs/strut assemblies.

Burr formation on one side of the front wheel tread

1. Wheel alignment out of alignment.
2. Tires worn out.
3. Frequent driving on uneven surfaces. Fast cornering.

Cord breaks. At first visible only from the inside

1. Driving over sharp rocks, tire bumps, etc. at high speed.

One-sided wear of the working surface of the tread

1. Check camber adjustment.
2. There is a malfunction of the ABS, - check the condition and reliability of fixing the terminal connection of the mass of the return pump (in the hydraulic modulator).