In general, in connection with the further introduction of the obligation regarding the presence of DRL in the car, it was decided to independently make daytime running lights. I think it is no longer a secret for anyone what is in the document "On amendments to technical regulations on the safety of wheeled vehicles "such paragraph No. 17, namely: daytime running lights, as well as corner lamps, if installed, must comply with the established requirements of the UNECE Regulation. running lights mandatory from January 1, 2016;
And I want to connect them so that when the ignition switch is on, they themselves light up ... But more on that later.
By the way, here is a photo of what I did first - etched the board, soldered 60 LEDs (30 for each "headlight"), for every 3 diodes there is a 500 Ohm resistor. It remains to assemble the case from plastic and connect it through the lock. So let's see what the etched boards look like:
But we already have LEDs soldered on them, which were mentioned earlier:
We test the performance of the diodes by connecting them to a power source:
Next, we make a case for our DRLs from scrap materials, here are pictures of almost finished lights, I made a plastic case, glued everything together. On the front transparent part I pasted a "frame" of black film, it remains to seal the whole thing and put it on the bumpers, making holes in them))
Actually, the DRLs themselves are ready, we cut out the glass suitable size we seal well under them and this entire kitchen (although there is an opinion that it is necessary to leave holes for ventilation and perhaps this is more correct):
Regarding the connection to the electrical system of the car. There are several options, here are the diagrams of the main ones:
You can also connect the meringue relay: + DRL is connected through the switch in the cabin to + ignition coils, and "-" DRL to the wire going to the + dipped headlights. The resistance of the lamp filament is very small and for DRL this will be enough, when the dipped beam is turned on, the DRL will be + and they go out.
The dipped beam is 50 + 50 W in the front + 5 + 5 in the back + room illumination + all the paws in the dashboard and other illumination. No extra load on the generator.
Also, DRLs should have a luminous intensity not lower than 400cd and not higher than 800cd.
You can use any connection scheme, or come up with your own.
Regarding the location of the DRL on the car - here, too, not everything is so simple and there are regulations:
Here's a little more about DRL, basic requirements:
Quote: "GOST R 41.48-2004 (UNECE Regulations N 48) Uniform regulations concerning the certification of vehicles with regard to the installation of lighting and light signaling devices. State standard of the Russian Federation
6.19 Daytime running light
6.19.1 Installation - Optional on vehicles. Prohibited on trailers.
6.19.2 Number - Two.
6.19.3 Installation diagram - No special regulations.
6.19.4 Placement (photo by several posts above)
6.19.4.1 Width - point on the apparent surface in the direction of the reference axis farthest from the median longitudinal plane vehicle must be not more than 400 mm from the extreme outer edge of the vehicle.
The distance between the inner edges of the two visible surfaces must be at least 600 mm. This distance may be reduced to 400 mm if the overall width of the vehicle is less than 1300 mm.
6.19.4.2 In height - at a distance of 250 to 1500 mm above the ground level.
6.19.4.3. Length - at the front of the vehicle. This requirement is deemed to be met if the emitted light does not interfere with the driver directly or indirectly as a result of reflection from the rear-view mirrors and / or other reflective surfaces of the vehicle.
6.19.5 Geometric visibility
Horizontal angle beta = 20 ° outward and inward.
Vertical angle alpha = 10 ° up and down from the horizontal.
6.19.6 Direction - Forward.
6.19.7 Functional electrical circuit
If fitted, the daytime running lights shall turn on automatically when the engine start / stop control is brought to the "on" position. It must be possible to activate and deactivate the operation automatic switching on daytime running lights without the aid of a tool.
Daytime running lights should turn off automatically when the headlights are turned on, except when the headlights are turned on for a short period of time to signal road users.
6.19.8 Pilot signal - Optional as a closed loop.
6.19.9 Other requirements - No. "
In a simple way, PTFs are designed to illuminate the road along the lower edge in order to improve the visibility of the roadway in conditions of limited visibility, the light beam should not be directed upwards and blind oncoming people.
DRL are intended to indicate tr. Wed in daytime, and not to illuminate the road, the DRL light must be clearly visible to drivers of oncoming traffic. Wed-in, which means it should be directed above the roadbed, it turns out in the eyes.
Thanks to our user gavalik for the idea for writing this article.
Many car enthusiasts have not yet installed daytime running lights on their car, but maybe they have been thinking about it for a long time. It's no secret that the absence of running lights, as well as the switched off low beam / fog lights, can cause your vehicle to stop by a vigilant traffic police inspector, which is not very desirable for most drivers, unless the latter lack communication with people and are happy any company at any time.
In addition, if you use low beam or fog lights as daytime running lights (hereinafter referred to as DRL), you will probably have to change the lamps in these headlights much more often. There is still a moment increased consumption gasoline with constant driving with the dipped beam on. Of course, this expense is negligible compared to the main one, but it still takes place.
With a certain amount of time (depending on skills and experience) and desire, it is not such a difficult task to correctly install DRL on a car for people who know how to hold a soldering iron in their hands and crimp terminals with wires, and in this article I will tell you how to do it ...
Of the tools and materials we need: a crimping device (if you have some skill, pliers are also suitable), a soldering iron, nippers, a knife, a lighter (as an option for tightening a heat-shrinkable tube), 3-4 meters of two-core wire in PVA 2x1.5 insulation (2x0 is possible .75, if the DRLs are LED, not foglights with halogens!). This wire is needed to connect two lamps in parallel.
You will need a standard 12-volt automotive relay, four-pin, reed switch (any), single wire with a diameter of 1.5 to 2.5 mm. about 2-3m., plastic clamps, heat shrinkage. It seems that that's all.
Now a few words about connection options.
Option 1. You can make the DRLs turn on when the ignition is turned on and not turn off until the engine is turned off. This is the easiest option. The negative wire is attached to the car body in any convenient place, the positive wire is attached to the positive from the ignition switch or to terminal D of the high-voltage module, preferably through a fuse (not shown in the diagram).
Option 2. The same option, but when the dipped beam is turned on, the DRLs go out. In this case, we connect the plus in the same way as in the first option, and the minus to the positive wire of the low beam lamp (either of the two). The fact is that an incandescent lamp consumes much more current and has a much lower resistance than LED DRLs and therefore, when the DRL is turned on in this way, the lamp filament will not heat up even to the minimum glow at full heat, and at work DRL the resistance of the lamp filament ( even warmed up) will have practically no effect.
As soon as you turn on the dipped beam, a plus will appear on the minus of the DRL, and they will go out. True, if you turn on the distant one, the DRLs will light up again. In this case, you can connect the DRL to the side lamps in the same way (if incandescent lamps are used as such, and not LED ones!). In most of the cars I know, the marker lamps are a priori connected in parallel, so that you can hook a common negative wire from two DRL lights to any marker lamp.
Option 3. This is an option when the DRLs are turned on automatically only when the engine is started and running. In this case, we connect the minus DRL also to the car body, and plus to the 30th contact of the relay. Contact 87 is connected to the plus more powerful, (you can connect to the positive terminal of the battery), contact 85 of the relay - to the car ground through the lamps of the running lights, and 86 - to the reed switch, to one of its terminals.
The second output of the reed switch is also connected to any plus nearby (it is possible from the generator or from there - from the battery). We start the car and move the reed switch around the generator to trigger the relay and ignite the DRL. We attach the reed switch, previously packaged in heat shrinkage, using a plastic clamp to the generator in the found position and you're done.
Option 4. If there is no reed switch. Everything is the same, only 86 contact - to the oil pressure lamp in the instrument panel.
That's all. In conclusion, I will say that using something that is made with your own hands is much more pleasant than that made by strangers. Good luck in implementing your and not yours, but, most importantly, interesting ideas.
For many years I have been using the "old woman" VAZ 2105, and she never let her down, and always drove home herself. Therefore, I try to treat her the same way she treats me. But the years of age of the car take their toll, and it does not in any way withstand competition with younger "rivals".
But the situation when, due to my own forgetfulness, I did not turn off the headlights, and in the morning they found a battery that was discharged to zero, happened to me more than once. And one fine day, after unobtrusive communication with the inspector road service, he suggested a simple solution: to put Daytime Running Lights on the car, or DRL for short.
No sooner said than done, and the next day I went to the nearest car market... Immediately I want to warn against buying universal DRLs (not for a specific model) via the Internet or mail: you still need to try them on, whether you like them or not, and in terms of size, not all sellers will give accurate information. Therefore, I stopped at simple DRLs from the "Chinese brothers" for only $ 11.
In the box
besides the very thin diode lights in the amount of two pieces,
there were two simple brackets,
and eight screws: four larger, for attaching the brackets themselves to the body or bumper of the car, and four smaller ones for attaching the lights directly to the brackets.
However, further practice has shown that neither brackets nor these "dead" screws are needed for us.
At first I tried to put in niches, but then I could not put the main headlights in place,
and from above I just didn’t like it myself.
Fortunately, it got dark pretty early (or I fiddled with them for so long), and deciding that "the morning is wiser than the evening", I went home. And the folk proverb turned out to be right and I dreamed about how to put daytime running lights on my VAZ 2105. For reference: this whole article can be successfully applied to the VAZ 2107, in terms of the headlights and the wiring we need, they are absolutely identical.
For installation, you will need a screwdriver that will perform the functions of a stand-alone drill,
extension cord and two cross bits for it,
drills for 3 and 4 mm,
crosshead screwdriver;
four shorter screws to secure the rear of the DRL to the main headlight itself,
and four thin and long ones so that a light bulb with glass can be attached to the body.
In addition, you need a mounting block, or rather, only two segments from it,
electrical tape (where can we do without it),
transparent silicone sealant,
meter (or even less) piece of two-core wire,
plastic clamps to lay everything neatly,
and nippers to bite off the extra ponytails later.
Everything, we begin to create.
We remove both headlights,
and with a drill for four in the lower part we drill a hole through and through.
Now the neat part, since the outer glass of these DRLs is not glass at all, but rather fragile and prickly transparent plastic. Therefore, with a drill, first by three, at the smallest rotations of the drill, we drill a through hole. And then with a drill by four, we also carefully and carefully increase it to this diameter.
In the back, on the contrary, there are already holes for thin screws, so we don't do anything with it.
We pass a wire into the prepared hole and put the headlight in place.
We fasten the back cover of the DRL directly to the headlight,
lubricate the contour with transparent silicone,
and having lubricated the screws themselves with the same silicone, a SCREWDRIVER, carefully (remember the fragility) fasten one first,
and then another headlight.
Wipe off any remaining silicone until it cures.
Now remove the false radiator grille. It's easy, four Phillips head bolts.
Through the contacts, connect in pairs the wires from the bulbs to the main wire, which we will fix. If the wire is of the same color, mark the ground (black wire) on the other side, it will be much easier.
Daytime running lights are not related to dimensions and are lighting devices that improve the driver's visibility during the daytime.
Standard DRLs are LEDs that shine brightly and are characterized by a long working life. When you use daytime running lights on a VAZ 2107, you should not additionally turn on the low beam or fog light.
Daytime running lights on the VAZ 2107 Installation rules
Installation of additional lighting on a domestic car does not require qualifications and experience. However, if the installation is incorrect, you run the risk of running into a fine from traffic cops, becoming the owner of an administrative violation.
To prevent this from happening, connect following the rules:
- read GOST R 41.48-2004. It concerns the rules for installing lighting devices on a car and certification of the vehicle in this regard. All the parameters that you must take into account when installing these devices are written there;
- choose a suitable DRL body shape. Please note that not all lighting devices are suitable for the VAZ 2107. Drivers consider the best choice in terms of price-quality ratio;
Daytime running lights Philips LED DayLight 9 - check the size of the case, taking into account the blocks of the nearby Daytime Running Lights. Install the lighting fixtures in the air intake or bumper, as appropriate;
- the height of the body of the products in the frame is 250-1500 mm from the road surface. The width between the inner edges of the 2 surfaces visible on the vehicle must be at least 600 mm;
- products are located in front of the machine, and the beam of rays is directed forward;
- consider the overall brightness of the LED lighting. It is 150-330 lumens.
Installation process
After buying ordinary ones or before you are faced with the question: how to connect new devices to the VAZ? This requires:
- take a five-contact relay from a domestic manufacturer;
Five-contact relay of a domestic manufacturer - take a positive charge from the ignition to contact No. 30 (as an option - a wire from the button responsible for heating the rear window);
- connect connection No. 86 to the low-beam lighting using the button for activating the dimensions and low-beam lamps;
- # 85 - Throw it on the ground;
- No. 88 - connect to DRL;
- No. 87 is not required during operation and does not connect to anything.
Connection diagram for daytime running lights on the VAZ 2107 Relay - put in the box. Under the car's hood, pull only the wiring that goes directly to the lights. Such
