15/04/2003
Let's see what "complications" are, what they are for and why they affect the status and cost of watches.
Let's see what "complications" are, what they are for and why they affect the status and. Chronograph, self-winding, perpetual calendar, moon phase ... What is it?
Complex mechanisms
Self-winding watches
They are also called "automatic" or "self-winding" watches. The weight sector (rotor), freely turning around the axis by 360, is connected to the winding device by a system of reversing and transmission wheels. Thus, each “shake” of the watch makes the rotor rotate and, accordingly, wind up the movement.
It is believed that Abraham-Louis Perle designed such a mechanism for the first time in the 18th century, and he gained his fame when he improved and began to use Abraham-Louis Breguet. The first use of self-winding in a wristwatch was carried out by John Harvard in 1924.
There are two types of self-winding movement:
1. Simple - allowing the watch to be wound only when the weight sector is rotated in one direction. Such watches are also equipped with a conventional crown in order to be able to wind the spring by hand.
2. Reversible - allowing the watch to be wound when the weight sector is rotated in both directions.
In the middle of the twentieth century, a type of rotor was also quite common, which could rotate only for a part of a revolution, and was limited on each side in its movement by shock-absorbing stops. This is the most impractical type of self-winding, since it does not allow the use of all hand movements, and the knock of the rotor strikes against the stops irritates the wearer. Practically not used today.
Chronographs
A chronograph is, if you decipher the name, “a device that records the time”. Or, better said, time intervals. The chronograph can be installed in a regular watch counting hours and minutes, or it can exist separately. In the latter case, it is called a stopwatch.
For the first time, a mechanism that measures periods of time was designed in the 18th century by John Graham.
The chronographs are set in motion either by pressing the crown (the first push is to start, the second is to stop, the third is to return to its original position), or by two additional buttons located next to the crown (one is start and stop, the second is a return).
Now the second type is most often used. When the chronograph is started, under the action of a spring, the lever connected to the gear wheel of the movement moves and falls into the cavity between the teeth of the column wheel. Thus, the transmission wheel engages with the central chronograph wheel and drives the second hand. A second push on the button causes the column wheel to turn and push the lever. The wheels separate again and the chronograph mechanism stops.
The minute counter is arranged in a similar way: when the second chronograph is started, the finger located on the central wheel interacts through the transmission wheels with the minute counter wheel and, when the chronograph wheel is fully turned around the axis, turns the minute wheel by one tooth. Such a minute counter is called instantaneous.
If the minute hand starts moving when the second hand reaches 58 seconds, then the minute counter is called smooth. Chronographs can also be equipped with an hour counter.
There are chronographs without a column wheel, which are driven by the engagement of two levers connected to the transmission wheels.
Chronographs are used for various purposes: a chronograph-tachometer (to determine the speed of a moving object), a telemeter (to measure the distance to a distant object, provided that the object is visible and audible - a similar device is built on the knowledge of the speed of sound), a heart rate monitor (to measure the heart rate) , an asthmometer (respiratory rate counter), for recording hot flashes and even for monitoring industrial processes.
In addition, there are chronographs that record fractions of a second and split-chronographs: with two seconds to measure an intermediate result.
Calendars
This part is best depicted as a diagram, since there are quite a few types and subspecies of calendars. So, the calendar in hours can be regular and lunar. The lunar calendar is somewhat akin to “automata” - widespread in the 17th and 18th centuries. devices connected to the clock transmission, and in the oval window located above the dial showing “moving pictures”.
In the lunar calendar, on a wheel with 59 teeth, there is a disc (blue or light blue) depicting stars and two moons. The disk completes a revolution in 59 days, which corresponds to approximately 2 lunar months. During this time, the rising and falling phases of the drawn moons are shown in a semicircular opening in the dial. During the full moon, the whole moon is visible, during the new moon, only the starry sky.
A regular calendar can be simple and perpetual. The first type requires adjustment at the end of each month with less than 31 days, the second takes into account the number of days in the month and the leap year. The device of a simple calendar resembles a car speedometer counter. Date digits are most often shown in a small aperture located on the circumference of the dial. In this case, the disc with 31 teeth is connected to the central wheel by means of transmission wheels. When the hour and minute hands rotate twice and reach the midnight position, the date shifts.
The wheels of the days of the week and months function in the same way. An example of a watch with a simple calendar: date, month and day of the week, as well as a lunar calendar: Cosmic by Omega '57 (?). In it, the days of the week and months are shown in the window, and the dates are located around the dial and are marked with an arrow.
In watches with a perpetual calendar, the movement is often located on a separate plate (eg Patek Philippe) because it is quite complex. Its principle of operation is similar to that of a chronograph: the number of days in a month is regulated by special clamps.
Calendars are also divided by display type. Moving to the next date can be smooth and fast; data can be shown using arrows or discs in a window. There are also such delights as, for example, the retrograde calendar (Parmigiani): the date digits are located on the dial in a semicircle, and the hand, after the end of the cycle, returns to its original position.
Repeaters and striking clocks
Repeaters are watches designed to repeat a sound signal (beat) at will. A simple striking clock chimes out hours and quarters automatically as the clock progresses, like a tower clock or a mantel clock. Such watches have separate springs for winding the battle.
Repeaters are of the following types: quarter (beating quarters and hours); receive winds (hours, quarters, and also receive quarters in a higher tone every 7.5 minutes); five-minute (hours and five minutes); minute (hours, quarters and minutes).
The first watches with a repeater were designed in 1676 by the English watchmakers Barlow and Quar - they struck the hours and quarters.
The repeater details as well as the perpetual calendar are located on a separate plate. The movement is operated by a lever that releases the mainspring, which activates the counterclockwise comb. The tines of the comb deflect the pallets of the hammers, forcing them to strike.
Alarm clock
This clock works in the same way as a regular mechanical alarm clock. The most famous model of such a watch is the Crikcet ("Cricket") from Vulcan, named after the bell, which resembles the chirping of this insect.
Tourbillon
This device is considered one of the most complex in watch movements. Its purpose is to compensate for the effect of gravity and to ensure the stability of the balance-spring at all positions of the watch.
The "father" of the tourbillon is considered Abraham-Louis Breguet, who patented this device in 1800.
The tourbillon is a mobile platform on which the balance movement of the watch is placed. The platform rotates at a certain predetermined speed. Fastest tourbillon in the world: Albert Potter watch with 12-second tourbillon. Each time the balance gains momentum, the platform rotates. This is done so that the center of gravity of the balance changes its position all the time and, thereby, minimizes stroke errors. However, this device has a number of shortcomings that led to the almost complete disappearance of the tourbillon from watchmaking at the beginning of the 20th century.
Breguet conceived the mechanism for pocket watches, which are constantly in an upright position. And in the horizontal position, it not only practically does not affect the accuracy of the movement, but also draws on the energy of the plant, which is necessary for the rotation of the central wheel of the mechanism. And with the development of modern technologies, when every detail of the movement is calculated to the micron, the error factor due to the shift of the center of gravity is minimal even without the tourbillon.
Nevertheless, watches with such a mechanism are quite popular. In 1995, Blancpain launched the Tourbillon for the 200th anniversary of Breguet's invention. It has a calendar, reverse stopwatch and a 7-day power reserve. And the tourbillon itself acts rather as a decorative device, the operation of which can be observed through a window in the dial at 12 o'clock.
Complicated watch
Such watches can combine three different movements: as already described by Blancpain with a calendar, chronograph and tourbillon, or, for example, a perpetual calendar, minute repeater and chronograph (Patek Philippe).
As soon as we want to know a little more about the subject of our hobby, watches, it is necessary to operate with basic definitions found in the watch literature. And if an inexperienced reader can easily imagine what a "case" or "transparent back cover" is, then the content of the inner filling of a watch, a clock mechanism, can confuse even a person who understands what is at stake. But nevertheless, he has little idea of how it all works, at least in the first approximation. So, what does a watch movement consist of (of course, we will talk primarily about a mechanical watch) and what are its main components.
Platinum(English - Bottom plate; French - Platine (châssis du mouvement)) - the base of the movement, on which its various parts are attached. It is equipped with a certain number of holes, some of which are designed for screws that fasten parts of the mechanism to the plate, and some for installing (pressing) stones. Each stone serves as a support for the lower pin of the pinion of the gearwheel located between the plate and the bridge.
Bridge(English - Bridge, French - Pont) - a part of the mechanism, screwed to the plate and serving as a support for attaching the upper pivot of the axle of a gear wheel (several wheels) or a shaft. Typically, its name comes from the type of function it is used to perform, such as escapement bridge, balance bridge, barrel bridge, etc. In most cases, the material for platinum and bridges is brass, but nickel silver and even gold are often used. It is curious that the bridges, large in area, occupying a significant area of the mechanism, are called three-quarter plates.
Stone(English - Jewel; French - Rubis) Is a hard synthetic material, a kind of corundum. It is irreplaceable as a support for rotating elements of the mechanism, minimizing friction between parts. At the dawn of watchmaking, natural rubies were widely used for these purposes, but now they are completely replaced by artificial stones. At the same time, stones can be either cut entirely from a crystal or pressed from powder in a more budgetary version.
An essential component for protecting balance axles and favorites gear wheels from deformation at the time of shock loads is a damping system in the form of springs located on top of the stones. The most popular systems today are Incabloc, KIF Parechoc and their analogues.
Gear(English - Wheel, Toothed Wheel; French - Roue) Is a round-shaped component that rotates around its axis and serves to transfer energy. The cogwheel is equipped with a certain number of teeth designed to mesh with a pinion of an adjacent cogwheel. The bulk is made of brass.
Tribe(English - Pinion; French - Pignon) - watch piece, part of the wheel transmission. It consists of an axle, trunnions, a seat for a gear wheel and teeth ("leaves") of a tribe. The number of the latter can vary from 6 to 14 units. Material - hardened stainless steel.
Axle trunnion(English - Pivot; French - Pivot) - the end of the axis, located at the point of contact with the support (ruby stone). Carefully polished to reduce friction between mating surfaces. High-quality polishing of this element is a sign of the highest level of finishing of the movement.
Wheel transmission(English - Gear train; French - Engrenage) - a system of interconnected gears and tribes, serving to transmit the flow of energy. Thus, the main wheel drive transfers energy from the barrel through the escapement and the balance-spiral oscillating system. In the simplest case, it includes a barrel, a central tribe, a central wheel, a third wheel with a tribe, a fourth wheel with a tribe, and an escapement wheel.
Clockwork drum(English - Barrel; French - Barillet) - a hollow cylinder with a cover and a mainspring located inside, which is attached at one end to the outer part of the cylinder, and at the other end to the barrel shaft. The toothed part of the device is in engagement with the first pin of the main wheel drive. The barrel is characterized by a very slow rotation around its axis (a full revolution from 1/9 to 1/6 hour).
Trigger mechanism(English - Escapement; French - Échappement) - a mechanism located between the oscillating balance-spiral system and the main wheel drive. Its tasks include discretizing a continuous flow of energy at equal intervals and transferring it to an impulse balance stone. The overwhelming percentage of modern movements are equipped with a Swiss escapement as the most unpretentious and reliable. It consists of a escapement (escapement) wheel and an anchor fork, which engages with it by means of two ruby pallets. An increasing number of manufacturers are committed to using silicon escapements instead of traditional hardened steel components.
Thanks to advances in materials science and modern technology, watch brands often experiment with more sophisticated single-pulse escapements, such as the Audemars Piguet escapement or the Jaeger-LeCoultre isometric escapement. Their share is not high, but they are, albeit not cheap, but a very interesting alternative to the Swiss anchor escapement.
The co-axial escapement invented by George Daniels and now industrialized by the Omega brand deserves special mention.
Balance(English - Balance; French - Balancier) - a moving part of the mechanism, which oscillates around its axis with a certain frequency, due to which it becomes possible to divide time into strictly equal intervals. The balance oscillation consists of two half-oscillations. The most typical value of the oscillation frequency of the balance in the mechanisms of modern wrist watch the values of 18'000 A / h, 21'600 A / h, 28'800 A / h appear. A sign of a high class is considered to be a balance of Glucidur, an alloy of beryllium bronze, however, other materials are often used - titanium, gold, platinum-iridium alloy.
The main qualitative characteristic of the balance, affecting the isochronism (homogeneity) of oscillations, is the moment of inertia, the value of which is closely related to the diameter of the balance and its mass. A heavy and large balance is a guarantee of high accuracy of the mechanism, but in this form it is most susceptible to mechanical stress, therefore finding a reasonable compromise between balance size and high moment of inertia is always a difficult task for a design engineer.
Balance spiral(English - Balance-Spring; French - Spiral) Is the second integral component of the balance-spiral oscillatory system, the "heart" of a mechanical watch. It is produced by a few factories, and the exact secret of the alloy is kept by seven locks. The most widespread is the Nivarox alloy, however experiments with other materials, for example, with silicon, are gaining more and more popularity lately.
It is important to note that the period of oscillation, and hence the accuracy of the movement of the mechanism, can be adjusted both with the help of the spiral (by changing its effective length) and with the help of the balance wheel. In the latter case, we are talking about the gaining popularity of balances with variable inertia (free-sprung balance), which is carried out using adjustable screws located on the rim of the balance wheel.
Pointer mechanism(English - Motion Works; French - Minuterie) - a wheel drive located on the dial side and responsible for transferring movement from the main wheel system to the hour and minute hands. Consists of the minute hand tribe ( Cannon pinion), minute (bill) wheel with tribe and hour wheel.
The mechanism of the winding and translation of arrows(English - Time-setting and Winding mechanism; French - Remontoir) Is a system of interconnected components designed to perform two important functions: setting the time by moving the hands and manually winding the barrel spring. Most parts of the mechanism are designed to perform both functions.
When manually winding the mechanism, the rotation of the winding shaft (Winding stem) through the clockwork (Winding pinion) and sliding (Sliding pinion) of the tribe is transferred to the crown wheel (Crown wheel), directly connected to the ratchet wheel (Ratchet wheel) located on the shaft of the barrel. The rotation of the shaft tightens the mainspring, giving it the energy necessary for the movement of the movement.
In the case of shifting the hands, pulling the winding shaft causes the Yoke, under the action of the Setting lever, to engage the sliding pin with the Intermediate wheel, which in turn is interconnected with the minute wheel of the hand mechanism.
It is important to note that in addition to manual-winding mechanisms, there is a separate and very extensive class of automatic-winding mechanisms. In this case, the replenishment of energy to the main drum is carried out by means of a self-winding rotor and a specialized wheel transmission.
Automatic rotor- a semicircular segment rotating around the central axis of the mechanism (in the case of a central rotor). As a rule, the rotor itself or its peripheral weight is made of a material with a high density (gold, platinum, etc.) to improve the efficiency of the automatic winding system. In addition to the center rotor, there are micro rotor solutions as well as a number of peripheral rotor designs.
In conclusion, it is important to mention that along with the definition of "mechanism" in watchmaking, the term Caliber(English, French - Caliber), which is now essentially synonymous with movement among watchmakers. It should also be noted that the diameter of round calibers is very often indicated in lines and denoted by the triple apostrophe symbol after the number (‘‘ ’), for example 11 ½‘ ‘’ (11 and half lines). To convert to the usual metric system of measurements, one should be guided by the ratio 1 line = 2.2558 mm (often the value is rounded to 2.26 mm).
Detailed diagram and description of concepts
Each watch manufacturer strives to create unique watches that would be distinguished from the rest by design or technical characteristics... But despite its uniqueness and even originality, there are certain components, without which it is impossible to imagine a wristwatch. In the diagram below, as well as in the explanations below, we have analyzed the most popular watch terms and concepts applicable to mechanical watches, in particular a mechanical chronograph.
The main advantage of mechanical watches is the absence of the need to constantly replace the battery. This saves you additional service and fixed costs.
Aperture
A small opening (also called a "window") on the dial that displays certain information such as date, day, month, or moon phase.
Stone
A watch piece made from a natural or synthetic gemstone (garnet, sapphire or ruby). Regulates and reduces friction to reduce friction in interacting rubbing parts of the clockwork.
Bezel
A ring located around the glass. Various indications can be applied on the bezel, which, depending on the watch specialization, can show the time of diving and ascent in a diver's watch, speed (tachymeter scale), seconds in chronographs, etc. Sometimes the bezel can be rotatable.
Plank
Also sometimes called "horns", they are protrusions on the watch case that are used to attach a strap or bracelet to the watch case.
Frame
The case is a kind of container that protects the fragile watch mechanism from damage. The body comes in a variety of shapes, such as round, square, oval, barrel-shaped, rectangular, and even unusual shapes.
Mechanism
The internal mechanism of the watch, which acts as a motor and makes the watch and its functions work.
Crown
The crown in mechanical watches is used for winding and adjusting the time, and in quartz watches - for stopping the watch, adjusting the time, changing the mode.
Chronograph stop and start button
Button (s), located outside the case, that control certain functions of the watch. They are most often found on watches with a built-in chronograph.
Glass
Dial glass, sapphire or mineral, sometimes made of transparent plastic. It is extremely rare that a natural gem is used as a watch glass.
Rotor
The rotor is attached to the movement of the watch and is used to wind the spring and conserve energy in an automatic watch.
Clock face
Clock panel with numbers, divisions or other symbols representing hours, minutes. Dials are very different in shape, design, material, etc. Jumping dials, for example, have apertures in which hours, minutes and seconds appear.
Strap
The strap secures and holds the watch on the wrist. The straps have a clear separation: if it is made of leather, fabric, rubber or rubber, then it is a strap. If it is made of metal or ceramic, then this is a bracelet.
Arrows
Indicators that move around the dial indicating hour, minute, or second. A large hand indicates minutes, a small hand indicates hours, and a thin hand indicates seconds.
Sub dial
A small dial located inside the main dial of the watch that provides Additional information e.g. chronograph, second time zone, power reserve indicator, etc.
Most of the terms we have analyzed are also applicable to quartz wristwatches, except for the definitions related to the movement.
Auto-Quartz Watch Quartz watch that does not require battery replacement. The most accurate of the electrical ones (the error is no more than 1-2 minutes per year), such a clock is powered by a battery charged by a heavy pendulum. The device is similar to the winding rotor of a mechanical watch and is set in motion by swings made by the wearer's hand while the watch is on the wrist. Automatic watch A watch equipped with a self-winding mechanism. Self-winding A mechanism that replenishes the energy of the mainspring by absorbing energy from the wrist movement. The device, although it does not completely eliminate the need for winding, makes this procedure not so frequent and regular. For the first time a heavy pendulum was used in a clock by A.-L. Pearl in 1770. Alli A special type of alloy used for the manufacture of watch cases. Altimeter A device for determining the height above sea level by measuring the atmospheric pressure. Swiss craftsmen were the first to discover the effect of changes in air pressure on the speed of oscillation of balance and pendulums. With an increase in altitude, the pressure and air resistance decrease, and, therefore, the frequency of oscillations increases. On average, watches located at an altitude of 500 m are ahead of those operating at normal pressure by 0.8 seconds per day. Shock Absorber A device mainly used in watches to protect the balance axis from accidental shock and shock. Amplitude The maximum deflection angle of the pendulum, calculated from the initial position. Analog clock Retronym, introduced with the advent of electronic clocks, as an opposition. A watch with a mechanical dial that uses several hands to display the time (although there are variants with rotating discs, drums, etc.). Does not depend on the principle of the clockwork. Angrenage The basic element of the clockwork system. Consists of interlocking gears with pinion wheels having twenty or fewer teeth. Anchor mechanism A device representing the articulation of a double swingarm (balance), wheel and fork. Designed to convert the energy of the mainspring into separate impulses imparted to the balance. He, in turn, sets a certain period of oscillation necessary for the rotation of all parts of the clockwork. Anchor escapement A type of escapement in which the energy of the mainspring is transmitted by sliding along the inclined plane of the pallet, which is associated with significant friction and requires the use of a special lubricant in the mechanism, which must be regularly renewed. Anti-corrosion coating Oxidation-resistant alloy, sprayed on the surface of the case, bracelet and other watch parts. Anti-magnetic property The ability of a metal or alloy to resist the action of magnetic fields. In modern watches, it is used to shield the movement and to protect against weak magnetic fields that can affect the accuracy of the movement. Any electrical device- refrigerator, stereo system, TV - is a strong source of magnetic field. Anti-magnetic watch A watch with a case made of materials with anti-magnetic properties. Aperture A hole in the dial for displaying the readings of the dial indicators. Used to display all possible data - from hour, day and month, to the phase of the moon. Astronomical clock A clock that displays, in addition to time, additional astronomical data - the time of sunrise and sunset, the phases of the moon, the movement of constellations, and the like. Atmosphere A unit of measurement representing the pressure exerted by the Earth's atmosphere at the level of the World Ocean. Baguette 1. One way to cut gemstones to shape them into a regular rectangle.
2. Clockwork mechanisms of the same shape. As a rule, it is located horizontally in the clock. Balance A movement system consisting of a rim, a crossbar, a double roller with an impulse stone and a coil spring. Designed to create balancing vibrations that regulate the movement of the wheels of the mechanism. Barometer A device for measuring atmospheric pressure. Invented by the Italian physicist E. Torricelli. Battery Power source, most often acting on the basis of electrochemical reactions. Used in the industry as a power source in quartz watches. Bezel Safety ring around the watch glass. Bicolor Manufacturing of watch case and bracelet parts in colors of two colors, usually by using two different metals. Used to create aesthetic contrast. Bimetallic Made of two metals. The term is applied to a watch with a case, bezel and bracelet made of two metals. The most common variant of bimetallic watches is the contrast between gold and silver. Alarm clock A clock, including a wrist one, with a built-in striking mechanism. Perpetual calendar A device for counting years that does not require correction for leap years and short months. Almost all watches with a perpetual calendar created today are created taking into account the years up to 2100 inclusive. Vibrograph Same as oscilloscope... Viscometer A device for determining the nominal viscosity of liquids. It is used to determine the concentration of watch grease. Water resistance (water resistance) The characteristic and ability of the watch to resist moisture. In watchmaking, it is most often expressed in WR (water resistance), measured in meters, or ATM (atmosphere), measured in bars. 1 ATM corresponds to 10 meters. The waterproof case reliably protects the movement from moisture, dust and dirt, allowing it to remain clean for a long time. These values were obtained in laboratory conditions and do not fully correspond to the actual indicators of water resistance. Waves A decorative element in the form of wavy lines. Often found as a detail on the case, bracelet and dial of a watch. Hair same as spiral Second time zone An option that allows you to see the time in two time zones at the same time. Most often, the time is set to Greenwich Mean Time (GMT) in order to easily calculate the time in other time zones (GMT + 3, GMT-8, etc.), but it can also be set to a specific zone. There are models not only with one, but also with two or more additional hands and dials to indicate the time in different time zones. Evacuation Fine adjustment of the balance position in the movement. Guilloché Derived from the French guilloché. A decorative engraving technique in which highly complex repeating patterns are applied to the surface of a substrate using a mechanical device that provides greater precision. For the first time such a machine was designed by the French engineer Guillot. The apparatus was driven by human mechanical efforts and made it possible to apply threads at precisely specified intervals. In the watchmaking industry, the guilloche technique is often used to decorate dials. Gnomon Obelisk that cast a shadow on a scale drawn on the ground. One of the first examples of sundials, which made it possible to determine the time by the length of the shadow. Also, the name of the vertical time scale. Yearly calendar A calendar built into the watch, usually displaying the day, month, and year. Requires adjustment only in February of leap years. Garnet A group of minerals that are isomorphic mixtures of metals. Most often, garnet is understood as transparent almandine and pyrope stones. Impurities of iron, calcium, chromium oxide and manganese give them shades from pale red to maroon. The mineral is used to make watch parts. However, being a medium hard mineral, it is not as popular as the ruby used by most eminent craftsmen. Two-color watch Same as bicolor Display Indicator for displaying various clock readings. It can be both analog and electronic. Jacquemarts From the French jaquemarts, moving figures of animals or people imitating the beating of time in an alarm clock. Geneva waves One of the most beautiful and well-known types of "waves" decorative element (see waves). This decorative design of the movement or dial is one of the hallmarks of Haute Horlogerie watches. Watch winding The process of winding the mainspring in a watch. There are two traditional ways to do it - manually and automatically. During manual cocking, a key or crown is used. Automatic winding is carried out using a heavy pendulum that converts energy from the movement of the wrist. Crown A must-have element of a mechanical watch these days. It is used for winding, correcting readings and changing modes in mechanical watches. The quartz movement has the same purpose, except for the winding function. Power reserve The duration of the movement without additional winding of the main spring. The average for quality Swiss watches is 36 to 42 hours. Gold Precious metal used both in jewelry and watchmaking. The main purpose is to decorate the case and bracelet. In alloys with other metals, it changes color in a wide range: from white to deep yellow, from pale pink to red, from light green to dark turquoise, and so on. In its pure form, the color is bright yellow. Gear train A common structural element. In mechanical watches, it is used to supply energy to the oscillator, counting oscillations, and more. In quartz - for communication stepper motor with disc indicators and arrows. Impulse Stone Detail of a clock mechanism. Represents a cylindrical pin that looks like a truncated ellipse when sliced. It sits on a double balance roller and interacts between the balance and the truss fork. Power reserve indicator A complex watch element. As a rule, it looks like a curved scale that allows you to assess the degree of winding of the main spring and determine the time remaining before the clock stops. The data is displayed either in exact units - hours and minutes, or in conventional units - half, quarter, third. The lunar phase indicator It is represented by an additional dial or an aperture and a disk reflecting 29.5 days and the phases of the moon in the form of pictures. Increasing the complexity allows you to estimate the current phase of the moon. Self-winding inertial sector A detail of the watch mechanism made in the form of a half-disk made of heavy metal. Rotating freely around the central axis, the inertial sector uses the rotational force to replenish the energy of the main spring. It can move both clockwise and counterclockwise. Moves thanks to the swings made by the wearer's hand while walking. Cabochon A hemispherical cut of a gemstone. Stones of this shape are often used to decorate the crown and bracelet lugs. Calendar A mechanism for keeping track of the date in hours. There are many options, ranging from the simplest, displaying only the current date in apertures, to complex multi-disc designs capable of showing the day of the week, month and year. Most calendars need to be reconfigured by February of each year. However, there are so-called perpetual calendars (see perpetual calendar), which can indicate the exact dates in a regular and leap year without additional readjustment. Caliber A term used to designate a model of a movement, by type and size. Initially, the caliber number meant the largest overall dimension mechanism, however, recently more and more samples are found where numbers and letters serve only to designate a particular model. Stone A watch piece made of synthetic or natural precious stones - sapphire, ruby, garnet. Similar parts are used in a watch movement to reduce friction between metal assemblies. Thanks to the use of stones, the mechanism lasts much longer and does not wear out for a long time. Carat 1. A unit of measurement that characterizes the ratio of the mass of gold in the alloy to the total. One carat is equal to 1/24 of the mass, respectively, pure metal is 24 carats. If we talk about the ratio of carats to the more common metric system in the territory of the former USSR, which characterizes the gold content in an alloy weighing 1000 grams, it will be as follows: 23 carats correspond to the 958th fineness, 21 carats - 875, 18 carats - 750 and 14 carats are identical to 583 th sample. The guarantee of the carat, like the sample, is the stamp displayed on the manufactured item.
2. A measure of mass measurement in jewelry. Equal to the weight of a dried pomegranate seed, which is 0.2 grams or 200 milligrams. Quartz watch A watch that uses an electronic oscillator controlled by a quartz crystal as a timing element. The crystal oscillator generates a frequency signal of very high precision, after which, using a gate or circuit, the signal is converted into a numerical form, usually represented by hours, minutes and seconds. Quartz watches are analog - displaying the time using hands and dials, and electronic - with a liquid crystal or LED display. Clip Composite metal clasp. Often used in bracelets and watch straps. Coaxial arrangement of elements Arrangement of parts on one axis of rotation. The clockwork has a huge number of parts arranged in this way. A striking example is the coaxial arrangement of the hour, minute and second hands in their classic form. Coaxial escapement Introduced in 1999 and patented by the OMEGA manufactory, a member of the Swatch Group, a escapement, which today is virtually the only alternative to the escapement escapement (see escapement escapement). Coaxial escapement uses a radial transmission of pulses, as opposed to anchor slip. This significantly reduces friction, increases the durability of the watch, and also reduces the need for lubrication of the movement .. Compensation, temperature Protection of the movement from external temperatures. Their difference can have a significant impact on the accuracy of the course. It has not yet been possible to completely eliminate the influence of this kind, but research is ongoing. The main method of temperature compensation currently used is the selection of materials for the main parts. Crown Same as the crown. The watch case serves to protect the mechanism from adverse factors. In the manufacture of watch cases, metals or their alloys are most often used. Often, the main, supporting, solid metal frame is covered with a noble metal - silver, gold, platinum. Less commonly, metal ceramics, metal carbides, natural stone, sapphire crystals, plastic, rubber and even wood are used for the manufacture of cases. Line A unit of measurement for the dimensions of the movement. Corresponds to 2.255 mm. Luminescent coating Application of substances with luminescence properties on the dial and hands of watches - the ability to emit visible light due to their fluorescent, phosphorescent or radioluminescent properties. The most common are light-accumulating coatings, which require preliminary exposure to bright light and are self-luminous, containing tiny admixtures of radioactive isotopes. Luminescent coatings of any kind are absolutely safe for the health of the wearer. Maltese Cross Detail of the clockwork. Used to limit the tension force of the main spring. The part gets its name from its similarity in shape to the Maltese Cross. Also, the Maltese cross is the emblem of the Vacheron Constantin manufactory. Instant daily rate This is the name of the rate of the clock, derived when testing their mechanism on one of the devices for checking the daily rate. Marine Chronometer A special watch adapted for accurate movement in the open sea. To maintain stability of vibrations during roll and to reduce the influence of gravity on accuracy, the chronometer uses a second balance positioned in such a way that both balances vibrate in the same plane, but in opposite directions. In addition, the watch is located on a movable support, which allows the watch to always be in a horizontal position. Also, the marine chronometer is the name of the series of Ulysse Nardin and Breguet watches, which are distinguished by increased accuracy and use a number of solutions from navigational marine chronometers in their construction. Bridge Shaped element of the clock mechanism. Serves as a support for the axes of the gears. The name of the gear gives the name to its bridge. Oscilloscope A device used to record the frequency and amplitude of oscillations in mechanisms. Since 1933 it has been used in watchmaking to determine the quality of movement. Long-term research allows you to determine the defects in the mechanism, the uneven stroke of the mainspring in a given period, the balance of the pendulums, etc. Palladium A metal of the platinum group characterized by a white color. Pure palladium and its alloys are often used in watchmaking. Cloisonne enamel A decorative technique used in the manufacture of dials. It consists in cutting a pattern or drawing on the surface of the dial, into the grooves of which a thin wire is then placed. After that, the entire structure is filled with enamel - often of various colors - after which it is fired and polished to a shine. Balance Swing Period The time during which a full swing occurs. It is calculated as the period during which the balance deviates from the equilibrium position in one direction, after which it comes back and, having passed the equilibrium position, makes the same move in the other direction, after which it returns to the initial position. Platinum The main supporting part of the frame, usually the largest. Serves as the basis for attaching bridges, as well as supports for clock gears, called wheels. The shape and size of the platinum determines the caliber of the movement. Fineness A measure of the proportion of a precious metal in relation to the total weight of the alloy. Also, the test is a special stamp, put on products made of precious metals and testifying to this share. The duration of the course Also - the autonomy of the watch. The time interval of the watch movement from the full winding of the spring to the complete stop of the watch. Shockproof device Mechanism for protecting the watch from impulse damage. Represents the movable joint of the supports, which are adjacent to the thin sections of the axis. The design is created in such a way that allows the balance axis to move up or sideways when different types blows. At such moments, it hits the restraints with its more massive parts, thereby protecting the more fragile ones from breakages and bends. Buckle One of the most common types of watch strap buckle. Heart rate monitor A device designed to measure the number of vibrations per minute, most often to determine the heart rate. To measure the heart rate, it is enough to determine the interval during which the number of beats was recorded - the second hand of the drive will immediately show the heart rate value on the heart rate scale. A fairly common complication in sports watch models. Rant Same as bezel Regulator Arrangement of the clock hands. To increase the accuracy of the readings, each of them is located on a separate dial. Strap For attaching the watch to your wrist. Unlike bracelets, straps are made of leather, plastic, or rubber. Repair A part of the mechanism, consisting of elements for the translation of the arrows and the winding of the main spring. Includes crown, winding shaft, winding tribe, claw clutch, and winding and drum wheel. Repassage Complete enumeration of the watch mechanism. It is performed for preventive purposes. Repeater A complication of a watch designed to measure specific periods of time with beats of different keys. As a rule, this function is regulated by a separate button and allows you to beat the hours, fractions of an hour and minutes. Retrograde Arrow moving in an arc. When it reaches the limit value, it goes back to zero. It is often used in various mechanical complications of watches. Rhodium Belonging to the platinum group, it is a hard, silvery-white metal. It is used as a coating material in the manufacture of dials and movement parts. Rotor Same as inertial winding sector Stepper motor rotor Detail of a quartz watch movement. Serves as a regulator to create strictly periodic oscillations. The main element that allows you to count the seconds. Ruby A gemstone that is a type of corundum, trigonal system of the oxide class. Natural rubies are often used to decorate jewelry watches, while artificially grown rubies are used to produce stones and watch mechanism supports. Second is one of the main units of time. Initially, it was equal to 1/86000 of the period of full rotation of the Earth around its axis - a solar day. However, after the appearance of the atomic clock, it was established that the rotation of the Earth is accompanied by infinitely small periods of acceleration and deceleration, and, therefore, a sunny day cannot be considered an exact value. At the 13th General Conference of Weights and Measures, held in 1967, the standard was changed. It was decided to consider a second a period of time, calculated as 9192631770 periods of radiation of the cesium-133 atom, fixed at the moment of transition between two stable levels. Silver White precious metal. It is often used in the form of alloy or sputtering in the manufacture of watch cases and bracelets. Skeleton A watch that lacks a dial for aesthetic purposes and has a transparent case back. The design allows you to enjoy the view of the working mechanism. Details of such watches are polished to a shine, decorated with graceful engravings, precious metals and stones. Complex mechanical function A complication, an addition to the main mechanism of the watch to perform new functions. The most famous complications are the chronograph, perpetual calendar, moon phase display and tourbillon. Contrary to the common misconception, it is watches with complications, not jewelry ones, that are the most expensive and prestigious. Sonnerie The English combat system, also known as the Petite Sonnerie, is a two-voice mechanism that hits a quarter of every hour. Grande Sonnerie beats an hour every quarter. Spiral A thin spirally wound spring. Its inner end is located on the balance axis, and the outer end is on the block. The balance spiral usually has 11-13 turns. Spiral Breguet Hair with curved inner and outer ends. Due to this, the period of oscillations of the system does not change depending on the amplitude of oscillations, keeping the isochronism of the system. The invention belongs to the master Abraham-Louis Breguet, the founder of Breguet. Split Chronograph A complication consisting of a two-hand stopwatch with an intermediate finish function. It is identical in function to the sports one and allows you to measure several periods of time. Greenwich Mean Time Also known as GMT, refers to the time at the prime meridian, where the famous observatory of the United Kingdom is located. The abbreviation GMT is found on watches with an additional time zone. Average daily rate The concept implies the algebraic sum of daily rates divided by the total number of days during which they were measured. The result of the formula is that same daily average. Steel An enriched iron-carbon alloy. The most common material in the manufacture of various parts of the watch case and movement. Most commonly stainless steel is used. Watch glass Transparent coating of the face of the watch, which protects the dial and movement from damage and does not interfere with the free observation of time. Most often it is made of mineral glass, less often - of sapphire crystals or plastic. Counter Sub-dial, often found in chronographs. Countdown timer A device designed to count down time in a predetermined interval. Tachymeter Sometimes we mistakenly refer to it as a "tachometer". Complication of the watch for measuring the speed of movement. Most chronographs are equipped with a special tachymeter scale, most often located along the bezel. It is standardized for a 1 km segment and is divided into sectors corresponding to different speeds. For example, when driving a car, the owner of the watch only needs to note the time it takes to drive a kilometer. Knowing him, using the scale, he can easily determine his average speed. Thermometer A device that measures the temperature of the medium with which it comes into contact. Some sports and touring watches are equipped with a built-in thermometer. Titanium Lightweight and durable silver-gray metal. Differs in refractoriness and chemical resistance. In the watch industry, it is used mainly for the manufacture of cases and bracelets. Tonneau or Tonneau The name of the watch case, its shape resembles a barrel. Tourbillon A complication of the movement of a watch, which is a dynamic structure designed to compensate for the forces of gravity acting on the movement. Designed by Abraham Louis Breguet, the device is a slowly rotating system of flywheel, lever and escape wheel. It is a particularly complex function that significantly affects the cost of a watch. Ultra-thin watch Watch less than 3 mm thick. Equation of time Complication of the mechanism, a device that measures and shows not only ordinary, but also real solar time. Oyster The name of one of the most famous models Rolex. Also the name of their signature double sealed mechanism. Eyelet Place where the bracelet or strap is attached to the case. Chronograph A watch with independent systems for counting time and recording its short intervals. The counter can record seconds, minutes or hours. If there is only one dial, the central second hand performs the function of the stopwatch hand. Longer lengths are usually measured with sub-dials. Chronometer A high-precision watch certified by the Swiss Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres, which tests movements in accordance with C.O.S.C. Digital watch Quartz watch with time indicator on liquid crystals or LEDs. Time zone The name of a geographic area with the same civil time over the entire area. As a rule, these are stripes with a length of 15 degrees of longitude. They are located
