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The device of any modern car, VAZ 2114 is no exception here, such that the successful plant of a car depends on a number of positions. This was previously enough for the mechanic pump to supply fuel to the carburetor, and there was a spark on the spark plugs. Today there are a lot of problems that prevent the engine from starting. The electronic injector requires the participation of several sensors, and they are not limited to. In this article we will tell you why the "four" does not start and how to deal with it.

In general, all causes of a malfunction can be divided into two broad categories:

  1. Fuel system problems. This group includes any breakdowns as a result of which fuel is not supplied to the engine at all, is supplied incorrectly, or errors in the quality of the mixture occur.
  2. Electrical problems. Ignition of the fuel mixture is provided by applying an electrical signal to the spark plugs. If problems arise here (and there are a lot of electrical elements), the car will not start.

The most terrible malfunctions can be attributed to a separate category - for example, a "knocked" VAZ 2114 engine, a broken timing belt and, as a result, bending of the valves. In these situations, expensive repairs are indispensable.

Of the elements of the fuel system, the following factors affect the start of the engine:

  • the presence of gasoline in the tank;
  • the integrity of the fuel lines under the "belly" of the machine;
  • cleanliness of filters: coarse cleaning (located in the tank) and fine cleaning (located under the car, to the right of the spare wheel compartment).

Before checking other methods, you must be completely sure that the VAZ 2114 with the injector is refueled. "Yes, there are still five liters" according to the indicator on the tidy or "I flooded yesterday, I could not spend so much" do not fit. The tidy may lie, and there may be leaks in the tank or fuel lines. Carefully check the car for fuel leaks, just in case, fill in 5-7 liters of gasoline from the canister.

The mesh in the tank is rarely clogged, leave this option for last, but the fine filter should be changed if electrical problems are excluded.

The operation of the fuel pump is checked by ear (after turning the key, its operation should be audible, if not, the pump is "dead", or the pump relay, or a break in the wiring). According to the manual, you need to connect to fuel system pressure gauge. If the pressure does not keep within 2-2.5 atm, the VAZ 2114 does not seize due to insufficient pressure fuel.

Electrical faults

Most of the problems lie here, so we will dwell on each option in detail here:

Nothing happens when the key is turned

On a VAZ 2114, this usually indicates a violation on the ignition-starter line, but one of the reasons for the breakdown "for blondes" is a dead battery, do not forget about it (checked with a voltmeter: it must be at least 11.8V - and a hydrometer, if the battery is serviced : not less than 1.22 in each bank).

Let's go further. The cause of such a malfunction may be a breakdown of the ignition lock cylinder, and the injector has nothing to do with it. If, when turning with a key, new sensations arose (something clings, it has become easier to turn or, conversely, more difficult), the point is in it.

Under the panel, approximately above the clutch, there are two relays: unloading the ignition switch and starter. The reason may be a malfunction of one of them. They are checked according to the manual by a good electrician or by replacement with a known working one.

Starter. Often the cause may be a jammed "retractor". If you are standing in the field, you should try to hit it with something heavy like a big key (without fanaticism) - it can help. If the car is in the garage, it is worth removing the starter and trying to start it directly from the battery.

To do this, press the case to the zero terminal of the battery, install the wire with the "crocodile" on the positive terminal of the battery and bring it to the positive terminal of the retractor. If the starter makes an attempt to gallop out of hand - everything is fine (be careful, without basic knowledge of safety techniques and an assistant, this procedure is not recommended!).

If there is no reaction, the problem is in the retractor. If the relay buzzes, but the starter does not turn, the problem is in the brushes. If the starter makes a terrible sound, but does not twist, the problem is in the bendix.

If the starter turns, replace the battery and check the power supply to the chips that are connected to the starter (with an assistant, one turns the key, the second measures with a multimeter).

Also pay attention to the ground wire that fits the battery. If there are breaks in the wires at the point of contact with the body or at the terminal, it must be replaced. It is also worth disconnecting the wire from the body and thoroughly cleaning it with a metal brush. Banal oxidation can be the cause of non-plant.

The starter turns, but the car does not start

This is the most common situation in the case of the VAZ 2114. The procedure for solving it must begin with an answer to the question of whether there is a spark. To do this, we take an assistant, unscrew one candle, put an armored wire on it and very carefully (avoid touching live parts, hold by the insulated part of the wire) we apply the candle to the cylinder head cover. While the assistant is turning the engine, observe the behavior of the spark plug. If there is no spark, you have to look for it.

If there is no spark

The ignition module is one of the key problems of the VAZ 2114 on the injector. It often breaks down and, it happens, a new one comes with a marriage. You can read more about checking the ignition module in another material on our website. Please note that the problem may also lie in the chip that is connected to the module. The presence of power on it must also be checked.

Is another reason why there may be no spark. Since this sensor monitors the phases of the cylinder, it is one of the key elements of the ignition system. Note that the probability of its breakage is lower than that of the ignition module. It is checked by an electrician on an oscilloscope, garage methods do not give an accurate assessment of the state of the sensor (only replacement with a guaranteed working one).

ECU. "January" is a relatively reliable injector, but "brains" can also occasionally fail. Often a problem with them is recognized by a violation of the injection phases: for example, a spark is supplied only to cylinders 2 and 4 or only to cylinders 1 and 3. Sometimes the issue is removed by simply cleaning the contacts on the ECU chip, it is also subject to oxidation, which becomes the cause of signal loss.

If there is a spark

Not often, but there is such a problem. By all indications, the car should start (gasoline splashes into the ramp, the starter turns, there is a spark), but the engine does not pick up. There are also pitfalls here.

Injectors. In most cases, the problem is with them, it is worth taking the car for diagnostics and cleaning it with ultrasound. If trouble catches up on the road, pay attention to the candles. If the injector supplies the mixture, they must be in gasoline, if the candles are dry, the probability of a malfunction of the injector is high. However, keep in mind that injectors rarely fail suddenly and all at once. As a rule, before the car stops starting, the engine must triple.

Low quality gasoline. It is assumed that a serviceable motor should start almost on the water, maybe work poorly. In reality, this is nonsense. There are plenty of examples of "killed" engines after refueling (both at "Uncle Ashot" and at quite official gas stations of all well-known brands). Keep this in mind. If the car stopped gripping immediately or a short time after refueling, you should not discount this option. The way out is to drain the gasoline and fill in another.

Lack of required rail pressure. Here we go back to the problems with the fuel system. Perhaps the matter is still in the pump or problems with the TPS (unlikely). If you have January 7.2, the cause may be a malfunctioning mass air flow sensor. Unlike January 5.1, here this sensor is interrogated at startup and, if an error occurs, the ECU may not allow the engine to start.

Finally, we note that among the reasons for not planting in the presence of gasoline and a spark, there may be the following:

  • the phases are incorrectly set when replacing the timing belt, as well as its breakage or cranking - it is worth checking;
  • due to overheating, the cylinder head "led";
  • uneven compression in the cylinders, "stuck" rings.

Non-factory VAZ 2114 is a common situation, and there are many reasons that cause it. Therefore, it is worth approaching the solution of this issue fully armed.

Quite often, owners are interested in why the car does not start during start-up, despite the fact that the starter turns as it should. It should be noted that such problems usually arise with the products of the Volzhsky Automobile Plant.

Quite often, the following happens - the VAZ-2115 grabs, but does not start. As practice shows, such a nuisance usually occurs at the most inopportune moment, when the car is far from car services. Such a breakdown can occur at any time of the year, and under a variety of circumstances.

It is for this reason that any car owner needs to know why this is happening and how to fix the problem. In fact, in some cases, non-starting of the engine provokes a rather easily fixable breakdown, which even an inexperienced driver can cope with.

The car grasps, but the engine cannot start

Most often, this problem occurs in frost, in the morning, after the car has spent the night in the open air or in an unheated garage. Insufficient care of the vehicle often leads to this.

This kind of trouble happens equally with carburetor and injection machines. There are many reasons for refusal. Most often they are as follows:

  • any malfunction of the fuel supply system;
  • failure of electrical equipment.

It is important to always remember that starting the engine in winter differs in many respects from the same procedure carried out in the warm season.

Fuel system

As you know, the method of supplying fuel to the carburetor and injection power units is different. Nevertheless, the malfunctions that manifest themselves are largely identical.

In particular, in both cases, gasoline is supplied by means of a pump. If in the first this unit works on a mechanical drive, then in the second on an electrical one, which creates a fairly high pressure in the fuel supply system.

Both pumps have in their design grids of filters that purify gasoline. If they become clogged, the engine will not be able to start.

In addition, the pump motor fails if:

  • there is no food;
  • there was a break in the wiring;
  • no mass is attached;
  • fuse blown.

The carburetor unit will not start if the jets are clogged. Nevertheless, experience proves that most often it is cars driven in motion that cannot start due to problems with the fuel system. injection motors... The thing is that the design of such engines includes several special sensors that supply data to the on-board computer.

For example, if the DPKV fails, then almost certainly the car will not move. Similar problems occur due to a breakdown of the fuel pressure regulator. Motor injectors may also be to blame.

Failure of the fuel pump is easy to detect. Turning on the ignition, you need to listen in the area of ​​the rear seats, whether you can hear the characteristic sound of starting this important unit.

Electricity problems

In the event that fuel is supplied to the engine, but the start does not occur, you should look for an electrical breakdown.

First of all, you need to inspect the ignition. May not work:

  • candles;
  • coil;
  • spark distributor.

It never happens that all nodes fail at the same time, so it is necessary to talk about each of them in more detail. In particular, if there are no problems with the ignition distributor, then, most likely, a breakdown has occurred or the slider, or the cover. The engine may not start due to Hall sensor failure.

But the most common problem is improper contact on the supply terminal of the ignition distributor. However, the problem often arises due to the inability of the coil to generate the required voltage. As you know, the injector works in conjunction with the ignition module. There are two of them in the engine design. The first is in charge of the functioning of the 1st and 4th cylinders, the other, respectively, of the second and third.

As a result, even when the candles are dry, a spark does not appear on them.

It may well be that the problem arose in the ECU, since it is in his jurisdiction that the formation of commands for each installed system is located, and the ignition is no exception. Check functionality on-board computer it is possible in only one way - by replacing it with a known working node. The suitability of the ignition module is checked in the same way.

If, nevertheless, a breakdown has occurred in the coil, then a fairly simple test will make sure of its malfunction. The candles are unscrewed from the sockets without removing the wires and lean against the mass of the car. Next, turn the starter. If the spark still does not appear, it means that the coil has become unusable and cannot produce a voltage sufficient to ignite the fuel.

If with carburetor engines more or less clear, but what to do if it doesn't start injection engine? It is good for the owners of large cities, where there are tow trucks and a large number of car services. But what about small towns and villages? Can I find and fix the problem myself? At least you can try. The devil is not so terrible as he is painted. What may be needed for this and is it possible to do without special diagnostic equipment? In some cases, and even such malfunctions are much more common than serious ones.

The injection engine does not start, which is necessary for troubleshooting.

To find and eliminate most of the faults, a test lamp, a spark gap and a multimeter are enough. the cost of the latter is approximately 250 - 300 rubles. The test lamp can be made independently by connecting two wires to the instrument illumination lamp. Never use large and powerful bulbs, such as headlights, for this purpose. The lamp power should not exceed 2.5-3 watts. otherwise, the controller may be damaged. It is possible to use LEDs for this purpose, but it must be borne in mind that it is polarized, that is, one of its conclusions should be connected only to the plus, and the other to the minus.

A spark gap is needed to check for a spark on the spark plugs. You can do it yourself. A couple of old candles or something else will do.

It is best to use a fuel gauge to check the fuel system. The monometer must be designed for a pressure of at least 5 atm. The connection armature can be assembled by yourself.

Injection engine does not start troubleshooting.

If the starter of your car turns normally and the car does not start, the first step is to check that the fuel pump is turned on. On domestic cars its work is audible from the passenger compartment, when the ignition is turned on, a characteristic buzzing from under rear seat or trunk.

In the case when the fuel pump is not heard to turn on, it is necessary to check the integrity of the fuses and turn on the main relay of the engine control system and the fuel pump relay. On VAZ-2107, VAZ-2108, VAZ-2109 and their modifications, relays and fuses are located on the shelf under the glove compartment or under it. On the VAZ-2110 VAZ-1117 and the like, you should look in the heater console on the passenger side by unscrewing the fastening screws and removing the side cover.

If the fuses are working, check the activation of the main relay and the fuel pump relay. Activation is detected by a characteristic click, or you can feel it by placing your finger on it.

To determine the malfunction in the event that one of the relays does not turn on, follow the corresponding link by clicking on it with the mouse:,

Checking the fuel system.

If the fuel pump turns on, check for fuel pressure in the rail. If available, a pressure gauge can be used, but if it is not available, it is most likely possible to check it simply by eye. To check the pressure on VAZ cars, you must press the spool located at the end of the ramp, on the opposite side from the supply, under the protective cap. Checking the pressure on GAZ cars is carried out by disconnecting the supply tube, which is attached to the ramp. When the fuel pump is turned on, the fuel pressure must be at least 2.8 atm.

If the check is carried out without using a pressure gauge, then when pressing the spool or removing the supply tube, there must be pressure in the rail, and when the fuel pump is turned on, the fuel must be supplied in an even stream with constant pressure. When the pump is running and there is no pressure, the reason may be: lack of fuel, obstruction of filters or fuel lines, malfunction of the pump itself.

Checking the ignition system.

If there is fuel pressure in the fuel system, then the ignition system and the condition of the spark plugs should be checked. Be sure to use a spark gap to check for spark discharge. When checking the spark with a candle placed on the body, a large resistance may appear, which can lead to the failure of the controller. When checking the spark for rupture, with a very large gap, damage to the module or controller is also possible. In addition, there is a possibility of getting an electric shock, which is not pleasant enough.

Other malfunctions.

If the pressure in the fuel system is normal and there is a spark on the spark plugs, but the injection engine does not start, then check that the setting disc located on the crankshaft pulley is correctly installed. This disc has two missing teeth that form a gap. This is the timing interval that is used to start the report for the sensor. When installing the first cylinder in the top dead center, the sensor should be between 19 - 20 teeth from the synchronization gap. If the position of the sensor does not correspond to this position, then this may be evidence of the rotation of the disk due to the breakage of the rubber damper or the loosening of the mounting bolt and the breaking of the keyed place.

In the event that the fuel supply and ignition systems are in good order, the cause must be looked for in the engine itself. It is necessary to check the gas distribution system and the condition of the cylinder-piston group of the engine by measuring the compression.

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admin 12/03/2012

THE BELL

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