The steering system of UAZ Patriot cars with power steering includes steering wheel, a steering column and two steering rods connected by ball joints to the steering knuckles of the front suspension.
The steering shaft, mounted in the steering column tube on two bearings, transmits torque from the steering wheel to the steering mechanism through a driveshaft consisting of a splined shaft, a sliding fork and cardan joints.
The steering wheel is mounted on the splines of the steering column shaft and attached to the shaft with a nut. A tilt angle adjustment mechanism is also attached to the steering column tube. The steering mechanism is installed in the engine compartment. The steering gear housing is bolted to the housing.
The steering linkage consists of a bipod, a bipod rod and a steering linkage rod, adjustable in length, tie rod ends, a steering knuckle lever, steering knuckles and ball pins.
The operating principle of the UAZ Patriot steering control.
When the steering wheel rotates, the steering mechanism screw is unscrewed from the piston nut or screwed into it, which moves along with the spool. The fluid pressure in one of the cavities of the steering mechanism increases - the piston nut moves. Moving, the piston nut turns the shaft of the steering bipod, which, in turn, turns the steered wheels through the steering linkage rods.
The working fluid, having passed through the steering mechanism, returns to the reservoir through the outlet hose. Pressure working fluid in the hydraulic booster it is created by a vane-type pump mounted on the engine bracket. The pump is driven by a poly V-belt from a pulley crankshaft engine.
A flow safety valve installed in the pump maintains the required pressure of the working fluid in the power steering system depending on the engine speed.
The power steering reservoir is installed in the engine compartment on the left mudguard bracket and is connected by a hose to the power steering pump and to the hydraulic fluid return line. If the power steering fails, the ability to control the vehicle remains, but the force on the steering wheel increases.
Possible malfunctions of the UAZ Patriot steering, their causes.
Increased free play of the steering wheel.
— Wear of the ball joints of the steering linkage.
— Loosening the bipod fastening nut.
— Loosening the steering wheel nut.
Sticking in the steering mechanism.
— Incorrect adjustment of the side play of the steering mechanism.
— Wear of the roller or worm.
Leakage of working fluid from the steering gear housing.
— Wear or damage to the working edge of the oil seals.
— Increased level of working fluid.
— Damage to the gaskets or loosening of the crankcase cover bolts.
Noise or knocking in the steering.
— Lack of working fluid in the steering gear housing.
— Destruction of the working surfaces of the worm and roller.
— Increased clearance in the ball joints of the steering rods.
— Loosening the steering gear mounting bolts.
— Loosening the swing arm mounting nuts.
— Loosening the steering shaft mounting bolts.
— Increased clearance in the front wheel hub bearings.
Noticeable shocks and vibrations on the steering wheel when the wheels are in good working order and balanced, and the tire pressure is normal.
— The steering mechanism is not adjusted.
— Loosening the nuts of the coupling bolts of the cardan joints.
— Loosening of the steering parts.
The car is pulled in any direction from straight-line motion.
- Not the same pressure in.
— The alignment angles of the front wheels are incorrect.
— The difference in the draft of the suspension springs.
— The swing arms of the suspension are deformed.
Wear on the front wheel tires in the form of spots.
— Low pressure in the tires of the front wheels.
— The steering mechanism is not adjusted.
So, I decided to install power steering. An installation kit was purchased from Avtodetalservice (ADS). At first glance, it lacks something, but we’ll buy something more.
The UAZ is in the garage, the only thing that stops it from working is the negative temperatures in the garage. At the same time, there are plans to install a wood stove in the garage, so as not to depend on electricity.
The weekend has arrived.
So what do we have? Auto and power steering kit.
We remove the steering wheel, steering column switches, old steering column, disconnect steering rod. We unscrew and knock down the steering bipod, unscrew and remove the steering gear.
Hurray, the place to install the new kit is ready.
I'm trying the steering gear in place, but it doesn't fit. Why?
Reading the manuals...
It turns out that the sets are different. It flashed through my head: “Your car!” Why do they make different steering gearboxes?” Upon further study of this topic, it was found that my kit No. 004–40 is for installation on a 409 engine.
I had to spend the weekend installing a new steering column and a new luxury gazelle steering wheel, connecting the steering column switches. I spent the remaining time reading the UAZbook website.
Well, this one doesn't fit - we'll look for another one. For some reason they were not available in the stores “Everything on UAZ” and “Planet Zhelyazaka”.
I had to order 4x4uaz from the online store.
I picked up kit No. 004-20. Everything is in a box made of plywood. Upon inspection, the following was found:
Seller IP Pyanov (website - autogur73).
A detailed examination revealed positive and negative points:
Positive:
- there is a steering gear;
- there is a bipod for the steering gear;
- there is a cardan for installing a new type of steering column (a wedge is inserted on one side);
- there is a bracket for attaching the power steering pump to the engine;
- there is an adjusting L-shaped plate;
- there is a power steering pump;
- there is a power steering pump pulley;
- there is a tank with fasteners for the fender liner;
- all bolts and screws are present;
- there are fittings for connecting a hose high pressure;
- there are copper rings;
- there is a simpleton for the pump under the fan;
- there is a belt, a high pressure hose and a low pressure hose;
- there are normal hose clamps;
- there is a pulley for the second belt;
- there is a wedge for securing the cardan to the steering gearbox;
Negative:
- there is no mounting bracket for the power steering pump! (and without it there is no way to install the pump on the bracket securing it to the engine);
- no steering rod;
- with one copper ring the size was missed;
- the wedge for attaching the cardan to the steering gear does not fit (apparently they took it from the bicycle department).
I am writing a letter to the site, verbatim:
I received my order today. I arrived at the garage and checked the power steering kit. I realized what was missing:
- short tie rod;
- bracket for power steering pump
The answer is also verbatim:
Hello, this is not currently included in the kit, but many other things are included
not in the picture, but what you have in the box, there are instructions for
installation, install according to it and everything will work out for you
Well, what can you do, it’s good that there is somewhere to borrow (the old set, which did not fit, has not yet been sold).
Another weekend and back to the garage.
On the agenda is the installation of the power steering kit 004-20 old the lineup, spring or spring suspension.
Taking into account the experience of the previous weekend, I tried to install the steering gear straight away. So, with a little wisdom, it was established that he was in his regular place. However, a small ambush was discovered at the initial stage, namely the small distance from the injection hose bolt to the engine gear cover.
Everything was once again postponed until next weekend.
Installation of power steering kit 004-20.
Step 1: Install the second pulley
We take a pulley to install the second belt.
We twist and turn and look. There is a peculiarity, no matter how it doesn’t stand up right away, one of the holes is displaced. Therefore, we estimate the location or take a caliper and measure the distances.
Having figured out how to combine, we install and tighten the bolts (the original ones won’t fit, we need longer ones). The pulley is pressed onto the original crankshaft pulley.
Step 2. Installing the bracket on the engine.
The one sold in the store is not suitable!
Take the power steering pump mounting bracket from the kit.
Here he is.
and put it in place of the factory gasoline filter. Tighten the nuts.
So we have room left for the third fastening. But alas, there is no hole in the head with threads. We'll drill it ourselves. We mark the middle with a core. Remove the bracket. Remove the valve cover.
We plug the holes where chips can get in. We take a drill or screwdriver, a drill and drill a hole, cut the thread with a tap.
I have a technological boss in the cylinder head, on the inside, so the hole is not through.
Well, it's ready
We put the valve cover back and install the bracket through the washers to the cylinder head (so that the bracket does not press the valve cover).
We take the power steering pump, attach a pulley and bracket to it and attach it to the bracket that we screwed to the cylinder head. Don't forget to put an "L" shaped plate to adjust the belt tension.
We put on a belt.
We tighten it with the help of an “L” shaped plate.
Part 3. Steering gear (RR) and grinder-file.
Having read UAZbuki. I decided to sharpen the PP and the cap of the discharge hose fitting.
So, carefully holding the PP in a vice, I took a caliper and roughly outlined the intended area for removal. We will shoot from the side of the plane that is applied to the frame.
We take a grinder (small), sharpen it, and use a large file to level the areas. There is a lot of metal dust, so it is better to provide a respirator.
Here is a photo of the intermediate work, to show how much I ground off and put a file on top. It can be seen that about 2-4 mm have been ground off on the right. So we cut down the entire site.
Using improvised means, we also grind off the head at the fitting. I placed a bolt nearby for clarity; the head was the same thickness.
Step 4. Installing the PP on the frame.
We paint over the open areas with paint or something else. First, we attach the high-pressure hose (remember to put copper washers on the bolt, then the hose and the washer again, and only then into the body of the RR. Next, we install the RR from the bottom - from the radiator side and fasten it with bolts from the old RR.
This is what happened.
For comparison, it was not turned
Step 5. Installing the tank, hoses, bleeding the system.
So, we install the reservoir in a convenient place, taking into account that the hoses do not bend, and the upper oil level in it is higher than the power steering pump.
We connect the hoses, fill in the oil, and bleed it with the front wheels hanging up. We check for leaks.
The topic was actively read on the UAZbuki website
forum.uazbuka.ru/showthread.php?t=67041&page=19
Information is given for the "Borisov" power steering for the Volga!
When three months ago I had to install a short belt and thereby disable the power steering, I even experienced some positive emotions. The wheeze of this “lisping assistant” disappeared, and when driving, the much-forgotten reactive force on the steering wheel appeared. The car began to be felt. The only upsetting thing was the need to sweat and park in several runs. Soon, by the way, I completely got used to it, and my muscles began to play the role of an amplifier. But I am not able to describe the moment when the power steering started working again. It was a shock! The car has simply been transformed.
My power steering died after 30 thousand km. He stopped helping to the left. The autopsy showed that he could not have done anything differently. The upper oil seal of the bipod was destroyed, its edge was cut off. In addition, it is not at all clear what the designers were counting on when making such a design. Below is a schematic representation of the power steering. Don't look at this scheme strictly. It depicts two shafts. The vertical shaft - the one closest to us - is the bipod shaft. It has a toothed sector that fits into the teeth on the piston. The sector is not visible, it is directed away from us.
Both shafts have cavities at both ends connected to a drain. For example, at the end of the ball nut shaft (where the steering column driveshaft is), such a cavity is needed so as not to transfer all the pump pressure to the oil seal. Three more areas are shown in the figure. Cavity 1 - between the two bipod shaft seals - is connected through a channel in the shaft to cavity 2 - under the top cover of the bipod shaft (where the adjusting bolt is). Next, after passing through two technological holes (they are drilled in the crankcase and plugged with small balls - it’s a Belarusian tradition to plug holes with balls so that they then fall out :-)) cavity 2 passes into cavity 3 - the lower bearing of the ball nut shaft. And then, passing through the channel in the center of the ball nut shaft, we find ourselves in cavity 4 - under the top cover of the ball nut shaft. It is connected to the drain line.
Since there are drain cavities at the ends of the shafts, there are also rings that prevent oil from draining there. For cavity 4 this is the C1 seal. It takes all the pump pressure when we turn left. To do this, a stamped support holder (brown in the picture) is placed under its edge. If this holder is not there, the oil seal will come out. And if there is one, then the edge of the oil seal will soon be cut off by its sharp edge. When the oil seal is pressed out, the holder deteriorates. It is not included in the small repair kit. Instead of a rubber seal, it would be more appropriate to install the same ring here as in other places.
Further, the K1 and K2 rings are made blatantly illiterately (I apologize to the developers), this is also sore spot. All rings in the power steering operate on the principle of cuffs in brake cylinders. The main role is played by the rubber ring, which is carried away by the oil and, under the influence of its pressure, “plugs” the gap between the ring and the wall of the groove, automatically pressing the ring against the shaft (or cylinder). For this, the fluoroplastic ring must be split (like all other rings). But these two rings are SOLID from hard polyethylene. They do not respond to the action of the rubber ring and practically do not work as they should. In addition, these rubber rings are put on with tension, lie on the bottom and do not participate in the process at all. Both of these rings isolate precisely the “left” working cavity (i.e., the cavity on one side of the piston, which is filled under pressure when turning to the left). The bipod seal also isolates the “left” working cavity. When leaks through the rings become large, the power steering stops helping to the left. The “right” working cavity is completely devoid of such leaks.
Let's move on. And who thought of this and for what reason, placing both radial bearings on only one side of the bipod shaft?! Bearing shortage? The bipod in the place of the above-mentioned ring rubs metal on metal under heavy load. The hole breaks, it becomes oval and the normal operation of the ring is out of the question. The most interesting thing is that nothing prevents you from eliminating the above leaks completely. Why put rings if the blank cover behind them is strong enough to withstand all the pressure? At least a couple of drain areas (2 and 3) could be cut back. To do this, you need to plug the channels inside both shafts, cut the threads and screw in the technological channels (instead of the balls), and screw a blind nut onto the adjusting bolt so that it does not leak along the thread. Cavity 1 will have to be connected to the drain in a different way. Practice shows that seals do not guarantee complete tightness under operating pressure.
Using my experience, I manage to increase the service life of the rebuilt power steering by three to four times.
P.S. To compensate for leaks, the designers adjusted the pump flow valve to increased consumption. If you reduce leaks and reduce pump flow, you can reduce hissing. It is impossible to completely get rid of the vulture; you will have to change the design of the spool.
PRINCIPLE OF OPERATION OF THE POWER STEERING PUMP.
The power steering pump runs continuously when the engine is running.
“At low speeds of the pump pulley and, accordingly, at low fluid flow rates through the calibrated holes, the spring force acting on the spool is greater than the force acting on the spool in the opposite direction and caused by the pressure difference acting in the high-pressure cavity and the discharge line, so the spool is pressed to the distribution in this position of the spool, its narrow sealing collar separates the high-pressure cavity from the suction channel. The suction channels are separated from the discharge line by a wide sealing collar of the spool. As the pulley speed increases, as soon as the fluid flow through the calibrated hole exceeds the specified one, the force acting on the spool. caused by the difference in pressure in the high-pressure cavity and in the discharge line, will exceed the compression force of the spring and will shift the spool towards the bolt-plug so that the narrow sealing collar of the spool will be in the area of the suction channel. As a result of such displacement of the spool, liquid from the high-pressure cavity will flow through. suction channels in the suction cavity, and the flow of liquid into the discharge line through the calibrated hole will be significantly reduced. After the flow rate decreases, the difference between the pressures in the high-pressure cavity and the discharge line will decrease and the spring will move the spool towards the distribution disc. Periodically moving in one direction or another, the spool maintains the flow of fluid into the discharge line within specified limits at different pulley speeds. As soon as the pressure in the discharge line begins to exceed the maximum permissible value, the safety valve ball compresses the spring, opening a hole in the seat, and through the through radial holes in the flow valve spool, the discharge line will connect to the suction channels, thereby limiting further pressure growth in the hydraulic system.”
