Often, after operation for 2 years, there are dull knocks on the side of the doors, especially those that are often opened. Most likely, this is due to the weakening of the hinge axis, behind which the bolt protrudes in the viburnum. Checking for the presence of backlash in the hinges is simple, you need to open the door and shake it up and down, if there are small knocks and a noticeable backlash, then the matter is in the bolts. The bottom bolts are loosened the most, but the top bolts must be checked as well.
Upper door hinge, bolt engages from below.
Bottom door hinge, bolt comes in from above.
To solve this problem, you only need a 13 key, you need to turn the bolts clockwise, strong efforts are applied, but without fanaticism. If you are afraid to rip off the bolt, then it is better to first unscrew it a little counterclockwise.
Until 2008, old bolts were installed on viburnums, which instead of the usual 13 head had an asterisk. If tightening the bolts does not help to eliminate the backlash, then we buy bolts of a new modification with a tapered working area and grooves for lubrication. The picture on the left shows the new bolt type and the old one on the right.
When replacing old bolts with new ones, it is better to do it one at a time, that is, first we change the upper one, and only then the lower one. The door is not easy. If you do not have helpers to hold the door, then you can fix the door with something, my friend got out of the situation like this.
When tightening new bolts, I advise you to lubricate them with lithol and drip onto the threads with a weak thread lock. Good luck.
Many owners of Lada cars complain that the Kalina gearbox lever rattles. This problem becomes especially noticeable during acceleration and deceleration of a vehicle. Rattling can occur on both new cars and used cars. In most cases, the appearance of an unpleasant sound and vibration is due to design features mechanism.
Finding the causes of the problem
There are several reasons for a gear lever rattling. In order for the motorist to understand which one he encountered, a simple disassembly of the mechanism will be required. First of all, you need to remove the gearbox cover (lift and pull), and then make a few movements with the lever and try to determine where the rattling sound is coming from.
If this does not work, then you can try to knock on the details of the lever. A part that is not properly secured will make a corresponding sound. Sometimes loose parts can be seen with the naked eye. If these tricks did not help, then it remains to remove the lever bolt and inspect the elements on it.
If the reason for the rattling is in the upper cover of the gearbox or nuts
In some cases, the Lada Kalina lever rattles due to the fact that the gearbox cover does not fit snugly enough to the mechanisms located under it. If this is the cause of the problem, then it is enough to remove the cap and stick a piece of electrical tape about 3 mm wide and length corresponding to the diameter of the cap on its inner surface.
After such a repair with your own hands, the cap should fit tightly. If the gearshift lever is still dangling, then you should apply another circle of electrical tape and put on the cover. Sometimes the bad sound is caused by poorly tightened nuts. This problem can be easily detected by removing the cover of the device. In this case, it is enough to tighten the nuts all the way to make the noise disappear. Upon completion of work, you need to disperse vehicle and release the gas pedal. If the mechanism no longer buzzes, then the gearbox repair is over.
If the cause of the problem is in the dimensions of the metal sleeve
If, after manipulating the electrical tape, the problem was not eliminated, then, most likely, the noise is explained by the peculiarities of attaching the shift lever to the rod. It is with such a flaw in the car that the owners of Lada Kalina most often encounter. However, the elimination of this malfunction can be done by yourself. This work will take a minimum of time, special knowledge is also not required.
In order for the gearbox to start working silently, you need to work using a 13 key, pliers and an electric sharpener. First you need to remove the lever cover, then unscrew the fastening nut, remove the bolt, all washers, as well as the metal sleeve. The reason for the malfunction in this case is that there is a small gap between the structural elements, in which there is strong vibration when shifting the gearbox.
Accordingly, the task of the wizard is to close the gap. In the design installed on the Lada Kalina, the washers are not compressed tightly enough due to the too large size of the metal sleeve. Therefore, when the mechanism is disassembled, you need to take the bushing and grind it off slightly (no more than 1 mm). The gearbox should be repaired with caution, because if you grind off the bushing too much, the gearbox will shift with great difficulty.
After turning, the sleeve should be tightly connected to the washers, forming a single structure. As a result of these manipulations, the lever will begin to move tighter, but this has its advantages, since it will not make any unnecessary movements. Before replacing all parts of the mechanism, they should be generously coated with grease. When the structure is assembled, the nuts must be tightened to the maximum.
One of the main problems encountered during this work is excessive grinding of the bushing, as a result of which it may be necessary to replace this element. However, a slight loosening of the nut can save the situation. It will make the movement of the lever less tight when shifting gears.
There is an alternative way to solve the problem with the Lada Kalina car. It is more complex, but it has also proven itself positively. The damper bushings should be glued to the gear lever with a sealant, and the metal bushing should be wrapped in a circle in aluminum tape (you can cut it out of a regular beverage can) and put in place. A washer must also be cut out of aluminum and inserted between the metal ring and the damper bushing. All parts should be greased before assembly.
When the gearbox repair is completed, it is necessary to test the mechanism. First you need to accelerate the car, and then at a speed of about 70 km / h and in third gear, release the gas pedal. If this does not occur extraneous sounds and vibration, then the problem has been fixed.
I decided to update an already existing article that was written over a year ago. In that case, the rattling of the gearshift lever was not very strong and was eliminated quite simply, which will be written at the very bottom.
In the meantime, I want to give a small instruction on how to eliminate the bounce of the lever on Kalina. For this I needed the following accessories:
- Open-end or ring spanner 13
- Pliers
- Electric sharpener
Why is the gearshift lever rattling on Kalina?
The main reason for this problem lies in the very design of the arm-to-rod attachment. To put it mildly, it is not perfect, but it can be easily corrected with minimal costs and in just a few minutes.
So, first you need to lift the lever cover up, and then unscrew the fastening nut, which is already shown in the photo below, almost completed:
When the bolt has been removed, we also remove all the washers and the metal bushing. And all this pancake in parts looks like this:
So, the reason for the chatter is that when connecting this entire structure, a small gap appears between the parts, which is the source of strong vibration.
To achieve a smaller gap, it is necessary to slightly grind off the metal sleeve, which just prevents the washers from squeezing more tightly. I want to warn you that you need to grind very carefully and very little, literally 1 mm. If you overdo it, then the lever will move with great effort.
As a result, after connecting the sleeve with washers into a single structure, as shown at first, we get a picture when this gap has decreased:
I screwed up a little and grinded off a little more than necessary (as I warned about above). As a result, when the fastening nut is tightened firmly, the lever moves tight when shifting. But I slightly loosened this nut, literally by half a turn - it should not be unscrewed!
When he had done everything, he started the car and gave good revs, and there were no sounds from the lever. But to be sure finally, I decided to take a ride. I accelerated to about 70 km / h in third gear and dropped the gas pedal. Previously, in this situation, the bounce was just awful, and the only salvation from this was a hand on the lever! Now there is not a single hint of extraneous sounds and vibration.
Who has not yet eliminated a similar defect on their Kalina, you can use this advice, just grind down the sleeve minimally. It is better to modify it a second time than to screw it up the first time!
Below is the material of an old article that talks about a similar problem, but it is easily solvable and has long been in the past!
Many owners of Lada Kalina very often have the following problem: during acceleration, as well as when braking by the engine, the gear lever begins to rattle. A similar problem arose with my Kalina after about 15,000 km of operation.
At first, these extraneous sounds did not irritate me much, but every day the rattling of the gearshift lever became stronger, and to be honest, it’s not very pleasant to listen to this every day. I decided to tackle this issue. So, elimination of the cause can occur in different ways, depending on the complexity of the problem.
Fortunately, in my case, it was enough to pry off and remove the upper arm pad, on which the gearbox diagram was squeezed out. Better to pry off this cover with a thin screwdriver to avoid damaging the plastic parts. After we managed to take it out, we wrap its inner circle with a thin strip of electrical tape and insert it back. After that, this lid sits much more tightly and does not rattle.
Of course, there are other sources of extraneous sounds, but everything worked out for me as simply and quickly as possible. The picture above shows what exactly needs to be wrapped with electrical tape.
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The owners often complain about the chirping of "grasshoppers" somewhere in the area of the steering column, but it is difficult for someone to find the culprit, but someone is lazy. I will try to help both. Omitting steering column in the lower position, unscrew the two screws securing the instrument panel and remove it (do not be confused by the slight resistance of the two metal latches in the lower corners). Now you need to unscrew the four screws and remove the upper casing of the steering shaft. The white block of the wiring harness extending from the LCD display of the instrument cluster will open to your eyes. Often this block touches the casing, and it chirps in motion! The standard plastic harness holder does not save you from this. I put a piece of rubber hose cut lengthwise over the block, but you can use foam rubber or other suitable material.
But somewhere lurked another source of chatter, and a lower tone. Having listened, I realized that it was the lower cladding that was "talking" when it was disturbed by the steering column adjustment lever. I got rid of the annoying sound quite easily: I lowered the lever and bent it a little.
The doors can rattle quite loudly at the "Kalin" - any play in the hinges is given by a knock on the bumps. On "Kalina" the hinge axis is removable, screwed into the body on the thread. If the tightening is loose, the knot will begin to tap harder and harder. Pull up the axle - you need a TORX T-40 head. But it happens that the tightening of the axle weakens again. Then we turn it out completely (the assistant supports the door), clean the thread and, applying a glue-retainer, wrap it in place. As a rule, this is enough for a long time, but still we will paint a mark on the axis of each hinge and the body. Such a beacon in the future will allow you to keep an eye on the state of the loop, without bringing matters to knocks.
I will conclude the story with some advice for those who are just going to buy Kalina. If I adjust the front seat for myself (my height is 174 cm), then it is impossible to unfold the rear seat for cargo transportation. Adjustment range front seat 168 mm, and the raised rear cushion eats up a good 90 mm. If you are going to transport the goods, it is better to remove the pillows in advance and leave them at home (in the garage) or reserve a place for them in the cabin.
