How to determine early or late ignition. Ignition distributor VAZ: the proven heart of the ignition system "Classics Rotation of the distributor

What is the ignition timing - aka UOZ? Is it some kind of attributes of ancient cars or something unshakable, akin to universal gravitation? Most modern car owners do not know this. All systems of the car are controlled by numerous controllers, and therefore timely sparking in the engine cylinders is entirely on their conscience. Meanwhile, a huge number of people who are unfamiliar with processors and other chips are running around the country. Therefore, questions like "How to regulate the POP?" sound to this day.

On technical issues it's always nice to answer. But first, you have to remember some "incendiary" terms.

Terminology

Interrupter-distributor of ignition- an electromechanical device that ensures the timely supply of high voltage pulses to. It is often called distributor.

Ignition timing- ignition of the working mixture in the cylinder before the end of the compression stroke.

Ignition advance angle (UOZ)- angle of rotation crankshaft engine from the position corresponding to the appearance of a spark on the spark plug to the arrival of the piston at top dead center.

Contact ignition system- a system in which the switching of the ignition coil is provided by a mechanical breaker.

Contactless ignition system- a system in which switching of the ignition coil is provided by an electronic module controlled by an electronic crankshaft position sensor - for example, a Hall sensor (VAZ-2108) or a magnetoelectric (GAZ-2410).

Breaker ignition systems - a mechanical switch in the distributor, directly connected to the primary circuit of the ignition coil.

Runner- a distributor element, alternately transmitting high voltage from the ignition coil to high-voltage wires connected to the engine spark plugs.

Closed contact angle (UZSK) is a value indicating how long the contacts of the mechanical breaker must remain closed. For UZSK it is approximately 55 degrees. Correctly selected UZSK gives the ignition coil the ability to gain the necessary energy and completely give it to the spark plugs.

When and why do you need to adjust the ignition?

First, a little theory. If the working mixture in the cylinders burned out instantly, then there would be no problems with advancing in principle. Set it on fire at top dead center - and it's okay. But the mixture does not burn out instantly: it takes milliseconds. In this case, the real speed of the crankshaft, of course, is not constant. Therefore, it is impossible to stupidly ignite the mixture at the same time with different operating modes of the engine: it will burn either too early or too late. The result will always be disappointing - the engine pulls poorly, heats up, works unstable, detonates, etc.

In particular, if you start to spark too early ( large UOZ), then the gas pressure will sharply increase before the piston reaches the top dead center, preventing its movement. Because of this, power will decrease and efficiency will deteriorate, it will lose throttle response and will twitch at low revs. With late sparking ( small UOZ) the mixture will burn for a long time with an expanding volume, and therefore the gas pressure will be significantly lower than the calculated one. Power and efficiency will decrease, and the engine will be strong, since the afterburning of the mixture will go on throughout the entire expansion stroke.

There is only one way of treatment - to set fire to the working mixture according to the speed and load on the engine. In addition, an adjustment to the SPL may be required when switching to. By the way, on very ancient cars (at the beginning of the last century) the driver controlled the ignition timing: a special handle was provided. But it soon disappeared, as the motor acquired a distributor with a centrifugal mechanism inside.

The centrifugal regulator usually contained a pair of weights balanced by springs. With an increase in the rotational speed, the weights diverged to the sides and turned the base plate on which the breaker was located. The higher the rotational speed, the more the weights diverge and the higher the SPL becomes.

Further pursuit of economy added its vacuum counterpart to the centrifugal regulator assistants. The fact is that with an increase in the load, the filling of the cylinders with a combustible mixture also increases, since the driver presses harder on the accelerator. At the same time, the percentage of residual gases in the working mixture is reduced, which contributes to an increase in the combustion rate. Consequently, the UOZ must be reduced.

On the contrary, with a decrease in the load on the engine, the filling of the cylinders decreases, the content of residual gases increases, and therefore the working mixture will burn more slowly. UOZ in this case needs to be increased. This problem is solved by a vacuum regulator that monitors the vacuum in the intake manifold of the engine. The higher the load, the lower the vacuum, and vice versa. In most classic motors, the centrifugal and vacuum governors work together.

If you have any questions - ask!

How to adjust the ignition? What is UOZ? Where did the runners rotate in domestic machines? What does the expression "to sparkle" mean? - many interesting questions to which the owners of modern cars may not give correct answers.

If the design of the car allows you to adjust the ignition with your own hands, then drivers often try to catch the middle ground between early and late ignition. If the ignition is late, then the sparks on the spark plugs occur later, respectively, the fuel-air mixture is ignited later. In order for the engine to generate maximum power, stability and frequency of operation, the ignition must be adjusted and tuned to the optimal mode.

Early or late ignition

Too early ignition of the mixture in the working chambers of the cylinders or too late is the reason for the poor operation of the internal combustion engine. The engine may not pull uphill, accelerate slowly, vibrate a lot, etc.

Signs of an incorrectly set ignition:

• the engine starts with difficulty;
• increased fuel consumption;
• the motor cannot develop power;
• in idle mode (XX), the internal combustion engine either stalls or overgas;
• the motor reacts poorly to pressing the gas pedal;
• The internal combustion engine is overheating;
• the motor detonates.

It is easy to determine that the ignition needs to be adjusted, if pops are heard from the muffler, the car "sneezes". In this mode, it is recommended not to operate the machine, but to immediately adjust it. Moreover, one of the signs is detonation, which can destroy valves, pistons and cylinders.

If the ignition is set incorrectly

If the ignition is early, it is due to the fact that the spark appears early. At that moment, when the piston just started to rise, the fuel-air mixture ignited and this explosion goes against the rising piston, as a result of which there is a waste of energy.

Due to the early ignition of the gasoline mixture, the piston experiences a great deal of force against its movement. This reduces the life of the crankshaft, pistons, connecting rod and pins.

Early ignition can be determined by the following points:

1. During ICE operation there is a metallic noise, as if something is hitting in the cylinder.
2. The idle speed is floating, there is an unstable operation.
3. If you press sharply on the gas, the engine seems to choke, does not immediately respond to the supply of more fuel.

As for the installed late ignition, it also negatively affects the performance of the engine and the resource of its constituent parts.

In this case, the mixture is ignited late, that is, when the piston is already going down. The fuel burns out, if it has time, with the reverse movement of the piston (up).

Signs of late ignition:

1. ICE cannot develop speed. Poorly responds to pressing the accelerator pedal.
2. Fuel consumption is higher than normal.
3. Carbon deposits and coke form on the piston and cylinder walls, which then, even with a properly tuned ignition, interferes with operation.
4. Due to the uneven combustion of the fuel-air mixture, the internal combustion engine quickly overheats.

How to set the ignition timing with your own hands

To set the ignition correctly - this means that you need to find the desired ignition timing (IOP). Setting is done on Idling, although this is understandable, but suddenly someone decided to put the car on a jack and tune it at speed.

To tune the ignition, you need to know that the optimal good idle speed of the engine crankshaft is from 850 to 900 rpm. The angle of inclination of the ignition moment must be between -1 and +1 degrees. This is the degree in relation to top dead center (TDC).

A popular device with which the ignition is set is a stroboscope. With a stroboscope, the setting is more accurate. But, if it is not there, then it is adjusted using a control lamp.

If a lamp is used for tuning, then it is connected to the positive terminal on the ignition distributor (distributor), and the base of the lamp is connected to ground. Let's take a look at the configuration options separately.

Now we have started to disassemble the power units of automobiles. Please write in the comments what kind of car and with what engine. Later, materials on such engines with useful information, for example, if the timing belt breaks, will the valves bend, also specifications, device, on which machines such motors are installed, etc. We have already reviewed the Honda plant, 3UZ-FE, 3S-FE, 1AZ-FE.

Stroboscope tuning

How to set the ignition with a control light

Other methods of setting ignition

Method by ear

Some people tune the ignition by ear. Rotate the distributor and determine how the engine is running. This method is the simplest:

1. Start the engine.
2. Loosen the distributor nut.
3. Rotate the distributor and determine independently how the internal combustion engine works. The engine should work in the found position smoothly, without vibrations. At the same time, the engine must develop the most high revs idle move.
4. After this position has been found, now you need to turn the distributor a couple of degrees clockwise and fix it with a nut.

Spark method

Another tuning method is with a spark. To do this, you need to combine the marks on the crankshaft pulley with the timing mark. The slider mark points to the first cylinder. After that, it is necessary to loosen the distributor nut and pull out the central high-voltage wire from the distributor cover.

After that, bring this wire closer to the "mass" so that there is 5 mm between them, and turn on the ignition. Rotate the distributor body 20 degrees clockwise. 20 degrees is 1-1.5 cm. Now you should slowly turn the distributor counterclockwise, then until a spark appears between the disconnected wire of the distributor and ground. In what position the spark appeared, in this position we leave the position of the distributor and tighten it.

After applying one of the methods for adjusting the ignition of domestic carburetor cars (VAZ, UAZ, Volga, NIVA, etc.), travel and check how the setting affected the operation of the internal combustion engine.

For accurate diagnostics, you need:

1. Warm up the engine first.
2. Then accelerate to a speed of 45 km / h.
3. Turn on the 4th speed and fully press the gas pedal.
4. At the same time, we evaluate how the engine behaves, detonates or not.
5. If the ignition timing is well set, after switching to 4th gear at a speed of 45 km / h, a short-term detonation will appear, for 2-3 seconds and will disappear after pressing the gas pedal.

• If the detonation does not disappear quickly, then an early ignition is obtained.
• If there was no detonation at all, then the ignition turned out late, you will have to set it "early".

If it did not work out the first time to adjust the ignition to the optimal mode, then repeat again and again until the correct result appears. By repeated tuning, you can achieve automatism and learn how to adjust the ignition with your own hands, without instruments, by ear.

Video

In this video: setting the ignition on the road.

Ignition installation video tutorial.

How to adjust idle speed on the road.

Installation of ignition on a light bulb.

without a difference in what, by ear and by the tachometer, retire! and it is better to visit a specialist and give him $ 10!

there is a special device for setting the lead angle, it is better to go to the service, make a mistake and spend more money on fuel consumption.

more like glow ignition (wrong spark plugs or crappy gasoline)

all clear! The slider spins clockwise, and so turn the distributor counterclockwise, which would be earlier and for, which would be later!

How should I know?

If you go to the service station there, they will put the device on display, detonation will torture you by eye and you will burn the fuel immensely.

Moves counterclockwise

How to set the ignition of a VAZ 2106 at home

Poor dynamics, as well as overheating of the VAZ 2106 engine, can be signs of not only engine coking or problems with spark plugs, but also indicate an incorrectly set ignition. Sometimes this problem is accompanied by a ringing in the engine, which is heard at low as well as at medium speeds. Novice drivers, as a rule, have no idea how to set the ignition of a VAZ 2106, so most of them immediately turn to specialists for help. There is no need for this, and today you will be convinced that you can easily set the ignition with your own hands. You do not need special devices to work.

How to set the ignition on a VAZ 2106 - step by step instructions

1. Before you start, you need to warm up the engine to operating temperature, this is about 80-90 °.
2. Then, without turning off the engine, open the hood and with a key on "13" loosen the nut securing the retainer clip of the distributor. Turn the distributor and watch the increase in engine speed, when they become the most stable and high, tighten the nut.
3. Then sit behind the wheel and accelerate the car to 60 km / h, having driven several kilometers along the road, after reaching the required speed, turn on the 4th speed, then sharply press the gas pedal. If at the same time the engine starts to gain momentum, we can conclude that the ignition is set correctly. If you hear a knock of fingers or claps (engine detonation), you have an incorrectly set ignition, it is also called early. If you feel that the engine revs very slowly, you have a late ignition.

1. After determining the type of ignition just exposed, stop and reopen the hood.
2. Loosen the distributor nut and turn it depending on what kind of ignition you have. If you have early ignition, rotate the distributor counterclockwise a few degrees, if later - clockwise.
3. Get behind the wheel again and check the car in motion. The adjustment should be made until you get the required result, correctly set, the ignition can be counted if at a speed of 60 km / h fingers knock no more than two times.

Now that you know how to set the ignition of the VAZ 2106, I hope you can easily adjust it on your car. Thank you for your attention, check back often.

Useful video on how to set the ignition on any cylinder:

To main

IGNITION REGULATION BY TRAMBLER. (MANUAL!) Where to turn it.

In fact, everything is very simple .. first you need to find out where the distributor shaft rotates when the engine is running. It is not difficult to do this on any car brand; you need to remove the cover from the ignition distributor. and turn the engine with a starter or roll the car by first engaging the forward gear. Once the direction of rotation is figured out, adjusting the ignition timing is just a matter of technology. Turning the distributor body in the direction opposite to the rotation of the slider is a decrease in the ignition timing, and vice versa, turning in the direction of rotation of the slider is an increase in the ignition timing ... Now you can twist. boldly 🙂

You need to go to the service, they know everything there

On the run of the slider - later, against the run - earlier

Clockwise - the angle increases, counter-decreases.

Well, you give it! They are both clockwise and counterclockwise. Put the first piston in the top dead, the mark on the crankshaft will coincide. (-) from the engine compartment lamp to the tramler capacitor. (when the first piston was exposed, I saw where the tramler was turning, and now in the other direction) turn the tramler with the ignition on until the light comes on, at the time of ignition there is a spark. The ignition order can be determined by removing the valve cover, according to the valves. (turning the crankshaft.)

What you need to turn in the distributor to adjust the ignition timing.

the distributor itself, there is a scale on the side of it, you release the bolt and twist it. to the side, plus the lead in the direction of the minus at a later time. and if you write 0 in this case, buy a book on your car from the publishing house "behind the wheel" there everything is clearly detailed with pictures, how to assemble, how to disassemble, how to adjust, it is impossible not to understand. I started with them myself

The distributor itself. Pictures are on the fence.

Twist the distributor itself, but before turning, you need to decide in which direction the crankshaft rotates, depending on how the engine is on your car, well, for example, the VAZ nine, if you stand facing the distributor from the driver's side, then turn the distributor to the left you will set the ignition later, to the right, respectively earlier, but on the distributor itself there is a region - the markings on the body are a mark in the form of a stick on the left, a minus is drawn to the right of it, plus, here on the right side is an early ignition region, a late field, but despite this you are in the early ignition area You can twist to the right and place even earlier. well, something like this, for example, a nine, the distributor itself is screwed on 3 nuts, release them and twist

Nothing complicated. I did this: I blasted a cartridge with a lamp, + at the lamp I threw it on the distributor, - to the ground. And twisted. The lamp comes on - the ignition is on. Try it. Maybe without pictures it will be clear.

The serviceability of the runner or the distributor rotor can be checked in several ways. Usually, doubts fall on this element when there is no spark on all spark plugs. Before diagnosing the slider, you will need to remove it.

A device feature called a slider

The slider is located in the ignition distributor. You can find it right under the lid. By their design, the sliders are quite simple devices, consisting of plates (central and spaced). Despite the fact that the models of the distributor sliders are different, the design is the same for everyone, similar.

These devices have an important sparking function. We can say that the proper operation of the internal combustion engine directly depends on the slider.

You should know that the distributor rotor is a part of old cars equipped with an engine carburetor system. The slider is made of plastic, has a high-voltage contact inside. During the functioning of the distributor, its rotation, the contact of the slider is in direct contact with the contacts of the cover. Thus, the spark that is so necessary for the car is exhibited.

Technically speaking, the distributor rotor is needed to transmit high voltage current. The transmission goes from the ignition coil to the spark plugs through the armored wires.

The rotor is fixed directly to the distributor drive (shaft), and the rotation is set in such a way that there are 2 crankshaft revolutions per 1 rotation of the slider. It is in this way that the discharge of the discharge to the candles is ensured in a strictly defined order.

On the distributor drive, the slider is fixed rigidly so that it does not jump off when the shaft rotates. During rotation, the lateral contact of the rotor contacts the KG (contact group) pressed into the distributor cover.

Interesting. The distributor cover is in the same position regularly. It does not move, but the slide contact, "running" next to the cover electrodes, forms an alternating and short-term electric arc. This also explains the transmission of the discharge.

On some cars, the ignition systems imply two working contacts of the slider. This is, in principle, a working classic Twin Spark ignition scheme of the Italian company Fiat. One of the contacts is implemented closer to the center, the other - as far as possible. In this way, the contacts correspond to the electrodes of the lid, packaged according to the same principle. And most importantly: such a scheme ensures complete isolation of the CG from each other.

Twin Spark is considered one of the first systems used for efficient afterburning of fuel in the combustion chamber of a car. The system is distinguished by its simplest design, but very effective and economical.

Types of malfunctions

As a rule, if the distributor slider is in order, then the motor starts the first time, without any problems. But when difficulties are observed with the plant, this indicates a damaged or punctured rotor (provided that the problems are not in something else).

The most common malfunction of the distributor runner is its breakdown. It can be external or internal. Obviously, the outer one is determined by noticeable signs - a black mark, the inner one must be checked by the presence of a spark (in detail below).

Breakdown is due to channel metallization. For preventive purposes, the metallization should be checked regularly. This is done using a multimeter or other similar device. The channel is checked at the moment of resistance. The probes of the device are connected to the place of the slider where there is doubt about the breakdown.

You should be aware that the spark can leave through the formed channel either completely or partially.

Methods for checking the distributor slider

The first method for checking the slider is suitable for all device models.

The element is checked if there is a spark on the main armored conduit. In other words, you need to check if there is voltage on the main wire of the coil. If not, then the cause of the problem should be looked for in the coil, wire, but not in the rotor.

The first thing to do is to remove the distributor cap:

• The cover is fixed with 2 latches. They will need to be unfastened with a screwdriver or by hand.
• Then pull the cover up and towards you.
• Be sure to disconnect the wires (for safety).

A slider enters our field of view. The check is carried out as follows:

• The rubber cap is displaced from the main armored wire of the ignition coil. Thus, the contact of the armored wire is exposed.

• Now it is necessary to bring the copper contact of the armored wire to the central plate of the rotor.
• Turn on the ignition and turn the internal combustion engine.

If discharges of electric current follow, that is, a spark will strike between the contact of the armored wire and the central plate, it means that the rotor is broken. It will be necessary to replace or repair it (more about repairing a broken runner below).

If the discharge between the contact of the armored wire and the central plate does not occur, the check must be continued.

The next stage of verification will imply the removal of the slider itself. It comes out easily, just pull it up. Here's what to do next:

• Take some wire, strip its end and wrap it around the spacer plate of the removed slider.
• Strip the other end of the wire and fix it to ground.
• In the same way, described above, bring the tip of the reel armored wire to the central plate of the runner.

In this case, a spark should already appear between the tip and the plate. Otherwise, if it is not there, this will indicate a breakdown of the noise suppression resistor connecting the two rotor plates. The solution is the same - replace the slider with a working one.

You can try to repair a broken element like this:

• Insert any dielectric (dielectric material: polyethylene, mica from a cigarette pack, etc.) into the slider (removed) from the back side.

It's important not to overdo it. The layer of dielectric material inserted into the inside of the slider should not be too thick. Otherwise, on the shaft, when rotating, this material will interfere.

Dielectric will help you get to the first car service or auto store. In any case, the punched slider will have to be replaced with a new, working one.

You can also temporarily reanimate an element with a damaged noise suppression resistor. But for these purposes, only those rotor models are suitable for which the suppression resistors are removable.

The resistor is held by a spring. It can be removed with the tip of a screwdriver by slightly pressing from below.

So, here's what to do:

• Pull out the resistor.
• Wrap it in foil from a cigarette pack. Be sure to wrap both ends like a candy wrapper.
• Reinsert the resistor.

There are other known methods for checking the slider. For example, many car enthusiasts, however, only the most experienced, are able to determine the malfunction of the slider by the shade of the spark plug color. So, if the shade is yellowish, the slider is faulty. On the contrary, if he is a worker, the shade should give a blue one.

It is also possible to determine the malfunction of the slider by the operation of the internal combustion engine. He is not always just "silent" and will not start. It happens that with a broken rotor, the engine can be started, but it functions unevenly, its power decreases, and fuel consumption increases.

The state of the contacts is a "painful point" of the rotor, however, of the distributor itself with its elements. In modern cars, the distributor and the rotor, as such, are generally absent. As for the owners of cars equipped with a distributor, only one thing can be recommended to them - to regularly keep the slider and other elements of the distributor clean. And if carbon or oxide forms on the contacts, clean it with a fine sandpaper.

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also on the cover of the distributor there is usually an arrow indicating the direction of rotation

bullshit. ; - ((

in Ufa engines, the distributor slider rotates counterclockwise.
those. rotating the distributor body for an hour. arrow - put
for an earlier ignition.

and turning counterclockwise - later ignition.

In the classic family and in later VAZ models with carburetor engines, the ignition system is built on the basis of a distributor, or distributor, about which there are hundreds of jokes and anecdotes. However, a distributor is by no means a funny thing, and read about this part, its purpose, device, principles of operation and basic faults in this article.

Purpose of the ignition distributor in a gasoline engine

In all modern gasoline engines a spark ignition system is used, in which the fuel-air mixture in the cylinders is ignited by an electric spark generated by the spark plugs. This system is most effective for gasoline internal combustion engines, therefore it is most widely used today, including on the engines of VAZ cars.

However, the ignition system should not only ignite the combustible mixture, but do it at strictly defined times and in a consistent manner for all cylinders - only in this case the engine will work normally and develop the rated power. In different types of engines, the problem of distributing the spark among the cylinders is solved in different ways: in modern power units with a fuel injection system (injectors), an ignition system with an electronic unit is used for this purpose, and in the good old carburetor engines and in early injectors, the heart of the ignition system is a distributor, also known as a distributor.

The ignition distributor (distributor) is an electromechanical device that ensures the timely supply of high voltage pulses to the spark plugs in accordance with the crankshaft speed and the engine operating mode. Trambler performs several functions:

• Connecting spark plugs to the ignition coil at strictly defined points in time at which the ignition of the combustible mixture in the cylinders occurs;
• Connecting the ignition coil at strictly defined times to the low-voltage circuit;
• Initial setting of the ignition timing;
• Automatic setting of the ignition timing depending on the engine speed.

Thus, the distributor is an important part of the ignition system, on the characteristics and condition of which many characteristics of the engine depend, and the work itself power unit only normal operation of the ignition distributor is possible.

The device and principle of operation of the ignition distributor

The distributor used in carburetor engines of VAZ cars consists of several more or less independent components combined in one housing:

• High voltage interrupter (provides high voltage pulses to spark plugs;
• Low voltage breaker (provides voltage from battery or generator to the ignition coil);
• Centrifugal ignition timing adjuster;
• Octane corrector (used on early distributor models);
• Vacuum regulator (or vacuum corrector) of the ignition timing (installed instead of the octane corrector on modern distributors);
• Interrupter drive shaft.

1. Roller distributor
2. Oil deflector ring
3. Washer, oil deflector ring
4. Ignition distributor housing
5. Capacitor
6. Wire from the ignition coil to the distributor
7. Oiler body
8. Eccentric octane corrector
9. Breaker cam
10. Cam lubrication wick
11. Base plate of the ignition timing regulator
12. Ignition timing regulator weight
13. Distributor rotor
14. Side electrode with terminal for spark plug lead
15. Ignition distributor cover
16. Central terminal for wire from the ignition coil
17. Center carbon electrode with spring
18. Rotor center contact
19. Resistor
20. Outer rotor contact
21. Spring
22. Spring support with stopper
23. The leading plate of the ignition timing regulator
24. Weight axis
25. Insulating sleeve
26. Textolite block of the lever
27. Breaker lever
28. Rack with breaker contacts
29. Breaker contacts
30. Cover spring
31. Fixed interrupter plate
32. Movable breaker plate
33. Base plate
34. Roller bushing
35. Spiral hairpin

The device described above has distributors of the classic contact ignition system. At present, a non-contact ignition system (BSZ) has become very widespread, in which a distributor of a slightly different design is used. In the BSZ distributor, in place of the low-voltage breaker, a non-contact mechanism is installed that generates low voltage pulses supplied to the electronic control unit (or switch), which controls the operation of the ignition coil.

The ignition distributor has the following structure. It is based on a housing (usually made of aluminum), in the lower part of which the drive shaft comes out, and in the upper part there are breakers. A low-voltage breaker is installed directly on the housing, which consists of a fixed contact group and a cam fixed on the shaft. In the BSZ distributors, in place of the low-voltage breaker, there is a contactless mechanism for generating electrical pulses, which consists of a stationary Hall sensor and a screen with four cutouts fixed to the shaft.

Above the low-voltage breaker is a centrifugal ignition timing control mechanism. Even higher is a high-voltage breaker, its basis is a slider (or rotor), on which there are two contacts connected by a resistor. A center contact that supplies high voltage from the ignition coil and a peripheral contact through which this voltage is distributed to the spark plugs.

The distributor is closed with a plastic lid, in which there are five outlet tubes - the central tube serves to enter the high-voltage wire from the ignition coil, and armored (high-voltage) spark plug wires are connected to the four side tubes. Inside the tubes are contacts, which are protected from electrical breakdown due to the relatively large plastic layer. The center contact of the cover is subjected to constant friction with the center contact of the rotor, which is why it is made of carbon. Also in the cover there are ventilation holes that remove gases formed due to arcing of contacts.

All moving parts of the ignition distributor (rotor, cam or BSZ screen) are rigidly fixed to the shaft. The shaft on the outside (on the shank) has splines, with the help of which it engages with the inside of the drive gear auxiliary units... That is, the distributor, like other units, is driven from the engine crankshaft.

High voltage breaker rotor and contact Group low-voltage breakers are installed in a strictly defined position, which can be adjusted with screws within certain limits. The distributor itself should have a certain position relative to the engine - only in this case the correct ignition timing will be set and the normal functioning of the entire power unit will be ensured.

On the side of the distributor, opposite the low-voltage breaker, there is either an octane corrector (in old distributors) or a vacuum ignition timing regulator (in all new distributors). Both units perform the same function - they automatically change the angle of rotation of the contact group, as a result of which there is a change in the moments of supplying pulses to the ignition coil, which, in turn, leads to a change in the ignition timing.

The vacuum ignition timing adjuster is simple. It is based on a body divided into two parts by a flexible diaphragm. From the outside, a vacuum is applied to the body, which is taken from the intake manifold, and on the back side, the diaphragm is connected to a rod, which turns the contact group of the low-voltage interrupter. The regulator works simply. As the engine speed changes, the pressure in the intake manifold changes, and hence the pressure above the regulator diaphragm. Due to the change in pressure, the diaphragm bends, and with the help of the thrust it turns the contact group clockwise or counterclockwise. Thus, the vacuum regulator provides an instant change in the ignition timing, maintaining stable engine operation in all modes.

The distributor body is also involved in setting the ignition timing - by turning the distributor housing, the initial ignition timing is set, from which the centrifugal and vacuum regulators are then repelled during engine operation. The advance angle is set only when the engine is idling according to the instruments.

The principle of operation of the ignition distributor is also simple and straightforward. As the drive shaft rotates, the cam of the low voltage breaker and the rotor of the high voltage breaker rotate. The low voltage breaker is supplied with a low voltage from the generator, and due to the constant closing and opening of the contacts, current pulses are generated at regular intervals. These pulses go to the ignition coil, which generates high-frequency current pulses - they go to the high-voltage breaker of the ignition distributor. Due to the rotation of the rotor, high-voltage pulses are alternately supplied to the spark plugs of each of the cylinders.

If we talk about a contactless ignition system, then the principle of operation of the distributor used in it is identical, and the difference lies only in the low-voltage breaker. In the case of BSZ, instead of the cam of the contact group, a screen with slots rotates, at a certain point next to the screen a Hall sensor is installed - it is he who generates electrical impulses. These pulses are fed to the electronic control unit, which provides the formation of high-voltage pulses by the ignition coil.

Types and applicability of VAZ distributors

Ignition distributors are used in VAZ cars with carburetor and some injection engines- these are all models of VAZ "Classic" (2101 - 2107), some modifications of VAZ-2108 and 2109, VAZ-2121 "Niva" and its modifications, as well as VAZ-1111 "Oka". More modern and all current Lada models are equipped with an electronic ignition system, so there is no distributor in them.

Regardless of the VAZ car model, one of two types of distributors can be installed on it:

• Distributor of the contact ignition system (KSZ);
• Distributor of the contactless ignition system (BSZ).

The first type includes the most common VAZ tremblers of models 30.3706 (and its earlier modification R-125), the second type includes distributors 38.3706 and 40.3706 equipped with a Hall sensor. Distributors 30.3706 and 38.3706 are most often used on cars VAZ-2101 - 2107 and VAZ-2121, and the distributor 40.3706 is suitable for more modern models VAZ-2108, 2109 and 21099.

When buying a new distributor, it is imperative to take into account the type of ignition system used on the car (contact or non-contact), and most importantly, to be guided by the modification of the previously installed distributor. It is interesting to note that many car owners abandon the KSZ, installing the BSZ on their own, however, in this case, you will not only have to install a new distributor, but also equip the car with an electronic control unit (controller) and new wiring, which not everyone can do.

The main malfunctions of the ignition distributor and how to fix them

The distributor is one of the weakest links in the ignition system, which is associated with its design features and those loads to which this unit is subjected during operation.

The following external signs can indicate problems with the VAZ ignition distributor:

• The engine stopped starting for no apparent reason;
• The motor develops insufficient power in all modes;
• The engine jerks and runs unevenly;
• Increased fuel consumption.

If the rest of the engine systems are in good working order, then you should remove, disassemble and inspect the distributor for malfunctions. The most common malfunctions of the ignition distributor are:

• Burnt contacts on the rotor or distributor cover;
• Corrosion on contacts;
• Cracks and other mechanical damage to the cover;
• Destruction or seizure of bearings;
• Ingress of oil into the distributor;
• Burnout of the resistor on the rotor;
• In BSZ distributors - Hall sensor malfunction or poor contact in its connector;
• Excessive wear of the breaker contacts;
• Incorrect connection of low-voltage and high-voltage wires.

Many defective parts of the distributor can be replaced - bearings, rotor, cover, etc. However, in most cases it is easier and cheaper to install a new distributor assembly. But the distributor should not be changed if oil is found in it - this is a sign of a malfunction of the carburetor. Usually, oil enters the distributor from the engine crankcase through the oil seal if the crankcase ventilation system is malfunctioning, as a result of which excessive pressure is formed in the crankcase - it is this pressure that squeezes the oil through the oil seal into the distributor. This problem is most often associated with a blockage of the channel in the carburetor, and it is solved by simply cleaning this channel. And, of course, you should clean the distributor of oil.

To remove the ignition distributor on a VAZ car, you need to do several steps (the order may differ slightly on different car models):

• Disconnect ground from the battery;
• Disconnect the throttle cable from the carburetor;
• Disconnect the high-voltage and low-voltage wires from the distributor, also disconnect the connector from the Hall sensor (in some cases, this will require unscrewing the bolts or unscrewing the brackets);
• Remove the tube from the fitting of the vacuum corrector;
• Set the piston of the first cylinder to top dead center according to the marks;
• Make marks on the distributor cover and the engine in order to subsequently install the distributor in the correct position (otherwise, you will have to re-establish the ignition timing);
• Unscrew the nuts retaining the distributor, then carefully pull the distributor out until the end of its shaft is completely out of the engine.

After that, you can repair the ignition distributor. The installation of a repaired or new distributor is carried out in the reverse order. If a new distributor is installed on the engine, then it will be necessary to make an initial setting of the ignition timing.

In the course of its operation, the ignition distributor for VAZ cars does not need any special maintenance, it is only required to periodically inspect it, and at the first signs of a malfunction, repair or replace it. In this case, the motor will work reliably and efficiently, without causing problems to the car owner.

It's no secret that the work of gasoline and diesel engines based on the combustion of the air-fuel mixture. Forming in a carburetor or injector, it enters the cylinders, after which it ignites and the thermal energy pushes the pistons that drive the motor shafts. As a result, the car is moving. The engine operation algorithm is very well established, however, for its correct organization, not only the timely supply of fuel to the cylinders is important. The sparking process is also important in this system, which is achieved using the ignition system of the machine. One of the main components in it is the distributor, which supplies a spark to the spark plug of the cylinder where the piston is currently reaching the desired position. We will talk in more detail about the work of this particular part of the machine and its features today.

The principle of operation of the distributor

As it became clear from the introduction of today's article, a distributor (also called an ignition interrupter-distributor) is a very important element ignition systems of many cars. Its main task is to send the generated spark into the engine cylinders. At the same time, a spark is supplied to each cylinder at different times, which is associated with the chaotic movement of their pistons. And as you know, to ignite the fuel mixture, the piston must be at top dead center (to be honest, the fuel explosion occurs a moment before the piston takes this position).

To understand general principle the work of the distributor, let's look at the full cycle of its functioning. In a simplified version, it looks like this:

1. It all starts with the fact that the motorist turns the key in the ignition lock, thereby giving a command to the carburetor or injector to supply fuel to the cylinders;
2. Then, at the moment the engine starts, the starter pushes the crankshaft flywheel. The latter, by interacting with the sparking system (mainly with the switch), provokes the appearance of a spark on the ignition coil;
3. At the same time, the crankshaft sends a signal to the distributor device that it should start working. After that, the contacts of the unit alternately close and open, thereby transmitting a spark to each specific cylinder exclusively when the piston reaches its top dead center. Direct regulation of the spark supply occurs due to the fact that the distributor interacts with the crankshaft and, through simple operations, receives the necessary information from it.

In addition to the competent distribution of the current, the distributor clearly reacts to changes in the intensity of the fuel supply to the engine by adjusting the ignition timing. This is due to the fact that the device is connected either to the intake manifold or directly to the carburetor / injector, but we will talk about this and other functions of the mechanism in question later.

Note! The principle of operation of the engine distributor described above is simplified as much as possible. Direct interaction of the unit with the same ignition coil or fuel system arranged much more complicated from a physical point of view. However, since we are all not physicists, but motorists, we only need to know the generalized algorithm of how the distributor works.

Trambler device

The distributor device is a whole set that is familiar to all elements of the car ignition system. A typical unit of such a formation consists not only of a spark distributor, but also of an ignition coil that forms this very spark. Less often, a switch is introduced into this system, but, as a rule, it is still taken out as a separate element of the system.

Going deeper into the consideration of the construction of the node, we note the following components:

• The distributor drive, represented by a conventional rotor. Engages with the motor shaft, thereby starting the sparking system and monitoring it;
• The ignition coil constantly interacts with both the distributor elements and the switch. Forms a spark and transfers excess current to a capacitor for storage or further distribution through the vehicle system;
• The distributor capacitor, receiving current from the ignition coil for "storage" and, if necessary, capable of being controlled by the switch. Accumulates excess charge for use in the vehicle system;
• Armored wires, ensuring the interaction of system elements and the transmission of current in it;
• A distributor slider or a special sensor that receives a spark from the ignition coil and distributes it between the cylinders. A typical distributor scheme assumes that this distributor is placed at the top of the unit and high-voltage wires leave from it to the spark plugs;
• Vacuum octane corrector or similar unit that monitors the flow and quality of the fuel supplied to the cylinders. On different versions distributors can be represented by very different mechanisms, but are often based on vacuum compression and are always connected to the fuel supply system. That is, the more the air-fuel mixture is injected, the earlier the distributor transmits a spark to the spark plugs so that all the fuel burns out with maximum efficiency.

In addition to the distributor elements described above, it is worth highlighting the auxiliary nodes that are necessary to build a single system. To be more precise, these elements of the device include:

• First, the distributor contacts. Perhaps, one of the main functions is performed by the contact group of the distributor, which ensures the interaction of its components;
• Secondly, the distributor bearing. It increases the resource of the rotor mechanism, which significantly extends the service life of the entire device;
• And thirdly, numerous distributor bushings, cams and mounts. They all provide a uniform and reliable valve design.

Important! On modern cars it is very rare to find a distributor. This is due to the fact that most of the models produced have electronic ignition, and there a special chip is involved in the distribution of the spark. In the system of contact and contactless ignition the role of this node is played by the distributor considered today.

Distributor functions and a little about its history

Summarizing today's article, we summarize the entire theory considered and highlight the main functions of the distributor. In the classical sense of this device, the distributor should:

• Initiate sparking;
• Distribute the spark over the cylinders;
• Adjust sparking for a specific engine operating mode;
• Ensure the accumulation of excess current in the "bobbin" (capacitor);
• Place the accumulated charge on the system.

Note that the first distributors appeared in the early 00s of the 20th century. The principles of ICE operation at that time were quite consistent with the functioning of a mechanical spark distributor. However, over time, the approaches to creating cars changed, so conventional tramblers with a slider became more and more primitive. At first, in contactless ignition systems, a Hall sensor began to actively replace them, and later, microprocessors began to be used in electronic ignition.

In addition, progress in the automotive industry has completely electronized the supply of fuel to the engine. As a result, vacuum octane correctors became useless and special sensors came to replace them in systems with electronic ignition. Given the rapid pace of development in the automotive industry, there is nothing surprising in the fact that distributors have affected only a few generations of cars, no. The majority of Russian motorists do know such a spark distributor according to the VAZ "classics". Newer models with electronic ignition are arranged in a fundamentally different way, so it will not work to find a distributor in their design.

Perhaps this is the most important information on today's topic has come to an end. We hope the article was useful for you and provided answers to your questions. Good luck with the maintenance and operation of the car!

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