Engine cylinders are parts in which constant combustion of the fuel mixture occurs, forming carbon deposits. Its removal is called decoking. Oil supply is carried out in two ways - using oil seals or piston rings. In the first case, you need to replace the unit, in the second it is possible Do-it-yourself decarbonization of piston rings.
A car service center will encourage you to overhaul the engine, but you can get by using preventive methods. By completing simple tasks to remove carbon deposits yourself, you will increase your car's mileage by 30-40 thousand km and will not lose money on replacing parts.
Causes of soot
The following reasons can be identified:
- Short trips in the off-season and winter.
- Violation of oil change schedules.
- Overheated motor.
- Low quality engine oil.
- Car idle time in winter.
- Various additive compounds.
- Increased thermal operating conditions of the engine.
The presence of severe carbon deposits can be indicated by increased fuel consumption, black vehicle exhaust, loss of power and low compression. Do-it-yourself engine decarbonization carried out using special means - chemical compositions for engine cylinders ( for example, liquid for decarbonizing piston rings). The most famous are special equipment XADO, Titan, LAUREL, SURM etc.
To clean the engine of slag without disassembling, LAVR for decoking of piston rings poured in doses - 45 ml into the technological connectors of the cylinders.
Before performing work, place the car on a clean horizontal surface. So the cylinders will take a vertical position ( can be corrected manually if you have access). We warm up the engine to the desired temperature, turn it off, remove the injectors, glow plugs and spark plugs.
The technology is only applicable for in-line engines ( not opposed). To avoid ignition of the anti-coking agent. After all the manipulations, we leave the engine for a couple of hours, free the cylinder bores, crank the starter with the gas squeezed out - this will remove excess chemicals in the cylinders. Next, we mount the removed parts and let the engine run idle, but with revving, and change the used oil.
The resulting carbon deposits must be loosened before removal. Otherwise, its residues will interfere with the normal operation of the engine. Coke deposits accumulate in the chambers and in the grooves under the piston rings. The rings become poorly movable and do not adhere tightly to the cylinder walls, which causes ineffective oil removal from the walls. This provokes a subsequent layer of soot, and so on, upward, until it stops.
Do-it-yourself decarbonization of rings using “chemistry” will require the following materials:
- carbon remover (anti-coke);
- syringe with tube ( we will pump out the remaining chemicals from the cylinders);
- compressor;
- oil filter;
- oil to change after all work has been completed.
After such a procedure, the car may emit a black, strong-smelling exhaust. There is no need to be alarmed; after such a procedure, this is a normal phenomenon; residues come out.
Correct decarbonization of piston rings, video:
Removing carbon deposits with water
Some motorists have learned to use a milder procedure that has the same effect in removing carbon deposits as chemicals. Decarbonization with water- the most common method that owners of domestic and imported cars decide on.
For the procedure you will need:
- distilled water in a plastic bottle;
- dropper;
- hose ( for windshield washer);
- tee ( connect the washer).
The scheme of work is as follows: water from a bottle is connected through a dropper to the engine suction. You can use non-distilled water - the filtration system in the dropper itself will handle the cleaning. Water supply starts with the engine running - at approximately 2000 rpm.
2-3 drops per second is enough when the engine is idling when the engine is warm. The effect will not take long to appear, the carbon deposits are removed, and the car becomes dynamic and economical.
Decarbonization with kerosene - instructions
The occurrence of piston rings due to carbon deposits can be “cured” with kerosene. The method is especially good if deposits on rings and channels have created an insurmountable layer of coke. Will need mixture of kerosene and acetone 50:50.
Step-by-step description of removing carbon deposits:
- Unscrew all spark plugs.
- Pour about 100 mg into each hole in the cylinders (To distribute the mixture evenly, it is preferable to install them in one line).
- Install spark plugs and leave the car overnight (minimum 8 hours).
- Unscrew the spark plugs and place a rag on the spark plug wells.
- Start the starter so that the remaining solution comes out through the wells.
- Tighten the spark plugs, start the engine, 15 km of run is enough to eliminate the residues (It is advisable to choose a non-busy road, cleaning will cause a lot of smoke).
- Change the oil.
Decarbonization of piston rings with kerosene- a simple procedure performed alone. As a result, we get normal oil consumption without excessive consumption, improved vehicle dynamics, clean injectors, and no detonation due to accumulated coke.
Decarbonization of oil scraper rings with kerosene, video:
Cleaning carbon deposits without changing the oil
This method of removing carbonaceous products is considered softer. A product for decarbonizing piston rings without changing the oil is a special additive for gasoline or diesel fuel. Their action is based on the removal of combustion products using a special chemical composition.
The inner surface of the motor is constantly exposed to a special composition, which eliminates the accumulation of coke.
Some advantages of this method:
- Simplicity and convenience - no need to remove spark plugs and injectors.
- Introduction in a minute.
- Changing the engine oil is carried out as standard, according to maintenance.
- The surface of the engine is protected by the resulting film, which reduces the accumulation of carbon deposits.
But it’s difficult to call such drugs a panacea. This is more of a local product that will help in case of mild coking. If the volume of carbon deposits is critical, additives will not be able to remove it, since they do not have a softening effect. These are flushing compounds with cleaning ingredients to remove light carbon deposits on piston rings.
On the other hand, this is the only option if engine knocking and black exhaust take you by surprise on a long journey. The usage standards for passenger cars are 50 ml per 40-60 liters of gasoline (or DT), for freight transport – 100 ml per 200 liters of fuel.
Important! Diesel units are filled with fuel containing alcohol depressant additives, which reduce the viscosity temperature of diesel fuel. In this case, the combustion chamber becomes dirty faster, and it is not advisable to remove spark plugs in cold weather. Soft cleaning compounds will prolong engine life by eliminating deposits.
Piston ring cleaning fluid has active particles that provoke the decomposition of soot and combustion when the fuel mixture is ignited. As the fuel tank empties, the combustion chamber is cleaned.
Since the times of the USSR, the quality of gasoline has improved, but the problem remains - any driver is faced with the removal of slag and coke on the piston rings. Soviet oil is also far from modern, but not a single car owner can fully claim that it does not form carbon deposits. Persistent deposits that affect the stable operation of the cylinders will lead to a major overhaul.
Main misconceptions:
The first incorrect conclusion is that modern engines do not need decarbonization. Any engine is operated in harsh conditions, including winter. This is the first and main reason for the formation of carbon deposits. Modern piston systems have provided parts with smaller clearances and grooves, which increases vulnerability.
Decoking of XADO, LAVR and other similar decoking agents cannot be called the only method of “treating” an engine. Periodic cleaning with oil changes will give good results, but the products are only good for standard engines. Namely, with a volume of no more than 2 liters, a vertical arrangement of the cylinders, and a shallow recess in the piston bottom. Otherwise, it must be filled with the product separately.
High cost is a reckless statement from an inexperienced driver. Anticoke costs much less than a major overhaul. For example, decoking laurel, the instructions for use of which are simple and clear, are made in Russia, which means the price is several times lower than imported analogues. According to research results, it ranks second in the Russian market, the soaking time of soaked pistons is 8-10 hours.
Engine decarbonization fluid works the same for all types of engines. There is no need to look for compounds separately for diesel and gasoline engines. The repair and maintenance operation is performed in a standard manner. Avoid working in winter, outdoors or in the rain.
For convenient introduction of the composition into the holes, some manufacturers add a special syringe to the kit.
Of the remedies that do not require removing candles, decarbonization is the most popular Edial. The advantages are that they work exclusively in the combustion chamber, activation at elevated temperatures, and cleaning in normal mode.
Mixing is simple - just pour the drug into the fuel tank at the gas station before refueling. In priorities - diesel engine decarbonization, including mineral residues ( ash), which are formed at a temperature of 850 degrees.
How to protect your car from carbon deposits?
If the problem already exists, the car consumes more oil and gasoline, fumes and smokes, learn how to decarbonize the engine yourself. And may your “iron horse” never fail!
In the practice of car enthusiasts, there are often situations when an unsuccessful refueling or a prolonged downtime of the car causes a loss of power and dynamism. The engine begins to respond late to the gas pedal, and acceleration takes much longer and worse than before. As a rule, the cause of such troubles is the loss of compression of one of the cylinders due to the occurrence of one of the rings. If low-quality fuel is used to operate a car, then when it burns, a layer of soot appears. This process is called coking of the piston rings. Actions aimed at returning the engine to its previous properties are called decoking of the piston rings.
What is coking and what danger does it pose to the engine?
Coking should be understood as the process of formation of a layer of carbon deposits arising from combustion products on the piston rings, and the reverse process is decoking of the piston rings. Carbon deposits can form for two main reasons: the use of low-quality fuel and if oil gets into the combustion chamber. Of course, when refueling a car, the driver cannot analyze the fuel that is poured into the tank. It is for this reason that car enthusiasts are often interested in the answer to the question of what such a problem means for a car engine. Coking itself disrupts and destabilizes the normal operation of the entire car and, in particular, the engine. If you do not begin to deal with the deposits that have formed in a timely manner, then engine wear will occur many times faster. This is why decoking of the piston rings is necessary. The following consequences of this process can be noted:
- If a thick layer forms on the cylinder walls, due to an increase in thickness, the thermal conductivity will deteriorate, and, accordingly, the thermal load will increase;
- Valves may burn out due to slag getting under them, which prevents them from fitting tightly into the seat;
- The gap from the piston ring to the valve wall decreases. Because of this, the tightness of the combustion chamber is broken and compression deteriorates. In practice, it often happens that rings simply break under load;
- Fuel and oil consumption is significantly higher than normal when the piston rings do not move. As drivers figuratively put it, the car eats fuel and oil in huge portions;
- In coked engines, pressure surges occur in the combustion chamber, which is caused by detonation phenomena.
Engine decarbonization - how is it done and what do you need to know?
Modern inspection and repair of the main parts of the car will allow it to serve reliably and for a long time. Those who constantly comply with the requirements of the manufacturer regarding the operation of their car: complied with all standards for oil changes, maintenance, and others, may have never heard of the problem of coking, but it happens that car enthusiasts are faced with such a problem and through no fault of their own.
But a good owner always comes to his senses at the first signs of problems: as soon as incomprehensible changes in the operation of the engine are heard, the power of the engine has noticeably decreased, excessive consumption of fuel or oil. Always remember - timely preventive measures save not only money, but also the integrity of the entire car.
In order to understand when decoking of the piston rings is really necessary, you need to thoroughly understand the symptoms of such a malfunction. So, let's define the main ones:
- When starting the engine, you can observe a strong exhaust from the exhaust pipe and an unpleasant smell of combustion products in the cabin;
- Comparative increase in oil consumption;
- A sharp decrease in car dynamics;
- Uneven operation at idle;
- Without any problems with the battery in cold weather, the engine starts with great difficulty.
The most popular methods for removing carbon deposits
Today, experts use two main methods to remove solids from the piston ring and valves: mechanical (brushes, kerosene, acetone) and chemical (special liquids).
Mechanical method
If mechanical decoking of the engine is performed, when a solvent, kerosene or acetone is used for cleaning, the engine will be completely or partially disassembled. Cleaning of parts is done manually using any available or special devices: brushes with soft cleaning elements, cloth, liquid for removing carbon deposits, for example, kerosene, solvent, acetone and others. To do this, take a washcloth onto which solvent, kerosene, acetone and others are applied and the engine parts are wiped to remove combustion products of fuel and oil. In addition, kerosene and acetone can be applied to a cotton swab or small swab to reach hard-to-reach places with tweezers. Cleaning can also be carried out using stone chips, when fruit stones clean the piston rings under air pressure with a pressure of 4 - 5 kg/cm2, when the stones hit the surface, the accumulated soot is knocked off it. Of course, mechanical shocks can deform the surface, unlike the method that uses solvent, kerosene or acetone.
Chemical method
Chemical decarbonization of the engine is cleaning of the piston rings in a harsh way, since the piston rings are cleaned using an aggressive chemical reagent that is poured into the cylinder through spark plugs. Initially, the reagent itself is selected for this purpose, since today’s market is filled with a fairly large number of different products. Of these, several of the most popular can be named: Laurel and Hado, as a means for decarbonizing piston rings. Of these, Laurel provides a film on the surface of the motor walls, which protects against rapid adhesion of combustion products. The Laurel comes with a special syringe that will simplify the work of cleaning the engine. Hado also received a lot of positive feedback from satisfied car enthusiasts. Despite all the advantages, we should not forget that such products create a much more aggressive environment than the same kerosene, solvent and acetone. Such substances clean the internal surfaces of fuel and oil combustion products. Craftsmen have even gotten used to cleaning them with medical hydroperite.
Cleaning is performed in the following sequence:
- Initially, the engine warms up to operating temperatures. On average, this indicator should be within 70 – 90ºС;
- The power wires are disconnected. They are removed by removing the spark plugs, and for diesel engines by removing the injectors;
- From the side of the driving wheels, the car is lifted with a jack and shoes are placed on it.
- The gear lever is set to the maximum speed position.
- Use a long screwdriver to turn the crankshaft so that the pistons are in the middle position.
- Approximately 40 ml of cleaning liquid is poured into each cylinder. If you decide to clean with hydroperite, then its solution is dripped.
- The spark plugs are slightly screwed into the mounting sockets.
- Within about an hour, the engine will decarbonize. To speed up the process and perform cleaning more efficiently, the drive wheel must be periodically rotated from side to side. In this case, the liquid penetrates well into the piston rings.
- Then you need to make sure that the cylinders are completely empty and start the engine. The engine should continue to run at idle for about an hour.
- When the cleaning procedure is completed, you need to drive the car with a load of about three thousand revolutions, but you should not operate the car without changing the oil and oil filter.
A similar cleaning procedure with Laurel, Hadot or hydroperite has positive effects in terms of increasing the efficiency of the engine, namely: compression will increase, power and dynamic indicators will return, a cold car will start better, but control over the result is much less than when a solvent was used or acetone.
As a preventative measure, modern manufacturers offer car owners to use a soft decarbonization liquid. Such mixtures are used as a fuel additive and have a positive effect - removing carbon deposits. But using such additives will not help in difficult situations and will not clean the entire engine. And one of the popular methods that allows you to clean with improvised means is decarbonizing the engine with water. Decarbonization with water is performed using a simple technique and gives a good result, but also has its drawbacks.
The life of a car cannot be compared with a human one. Simple arithmetic: at idle, a diesel engine makes a minimum of 600 revolutions per minute - that is, 10 per second. In this case, the piston “walks” 20 times. We press on the gas - the number of revolutions exceeds a thousand. Add here the constant exposure to high temperatures and cold when starting in winter... A person could never even dream of such an extreme! Therefore, forgetting about such a procedure as engine decarbonization using LAVR ML202 - ML203 NOVATOR preparations is a real crime.
Background
When cars first appeared in the USSR, everyone knew that it was necessary to periodically clean the piston rings of dirt. Fuel in those days burned much worse than it does now. Varnishes and sludge quickly formed on the surface of the parts.
The oil was also so-so and even worse. What happened to him in the engine? It oxidized on the cylinder walls, turning into a film, and got into the piston grooves. Also, during the combustion of the fuel, soot was formed, which was mixed with the oil film. Over time, all this turned into a single monolith - persistent solid deposits that blocked the operation of the piston rings.
Soviet motorists fought against pollution with all the methods available at that time: they filled the engine with kerosene at night, and later they began to add solvents. Desperate car enthusiasts were not deterred by the risk of being left without a car at all and the almost zero effectiveness of such compounds. However, even now the owners of “iron horses” do not hesitate to experiment to their detriment. And some people completely forgot about decoking the engine - they relaxed, relying on additives in modern oils and relatively high fuel standards.
Since those times, modern auto chemicals represented by our products ML202 - ML203 NOVATOR have stepped far forward. However, she is still not omnipotent, as some people think. Therefore, we decided to debunk the most popular myths about engine decarbonization.
Myth 1. Modern engines do not need decoking
Nothing like this! Of course, in 10-15 years the situation with fuel and oil has changed for the better. In Soviet times, it was impossible to start without a blowtorch in the winter (let’s keep silent about how dangerous it was to heat up the lubrication system pan in this way: the slightest leak, and the Zhiguli was left with burnt legs and horns), but now an easy cold start is something by itself of course.
Despite this, the problem of coking has not gone away and has even worsened. Thanks to progress: technology is more advanced, the gaps between the piston rings and grooves are smaller, the system is more vulnerable. Even a thin layer of deposits will cause the engine to malfunction. Over time, there are more deposits, the problems become more serious - a drop in compression, glow ignition, detonation, accelerated wear, and then a serious breakdown. If you don’t want to shell out money for major repairs, don’t forget about decarbonization.
Myth 2. Engine decarbonization is a universal cure for all ills
There is no doubt, LAVR drugs are almost legendary. But they are far from the “living water” of folk tales. Engine decoking is primarily a repair and maintenance operation. Like an examination by a hygienist, if we draw parallels with medicine. If there are problems with cleanliness in the cylinders, the ML202 and 203 will eliminate them. But if the engine is badly worn, no procedure other than overhauling and replacing parts will help the system.
Myth 3. The debonding procedure is the same for all engines.
The principle is the same for all motors. However, engines are different - in-line, opposed, V-shaped... Each has its own nuances. If you are in any doubt, check with our experts by phone or email. But there is one general rule: if the engine has inclined cylinders, it is better to fill them with more liquid. In detail about decoking of boxer and V-shaped engines,
Myth 4. I constantly use gasoline additives and wash the injectors with a liquid with a decoking effect. There’s no need to do any more decoking
The most effective way to remove deposits is by the “immersion method” - that is, by pouring the decarbonizing composition directly into the cylinders. So one does not interfere with the other. But at the same time, nuances arise: getting to the technological holes is not always easy - you need special tools and comfortable conditions. It is better not to carry out this procedure outdoors, in the rain or snow. That is why we advise combining engine decoking with a scheduled oil or spark plug change.
Myth 5. The more decoking liquid, the better the cylinders are cleaned.
There should be enough liquid so that the pistons are well moistened with it. The volume of preparations is designed in such a way that there is enough decoking liquid to treat all cylinders. 50-60 ml in excess of the required amount will not harm the engine, but it is also not worth pouring the drug into buckets.
Myth 6. The decarbonizing liquid must clean white.
Our products are for those who have an average or higher degree of cylinder coking. It often happens that in old engines deposits “hold” parts, like cement mortar holds bricks together. Therefore, it is not recommended to whitewash such systems. In addition, solutions that are too caustic can damage engine parts. However, our compositions are much stronger than many analogues and traditional solvents.
Myth 7. After decoking, the car always smokes a lot
The car will smoke in any case, but not always much. The piston has technological recesses in which liquid is retained. In addition, the deposits become saturated with drug vapors and swell, preventing the liquid from leaking further. This excess drug begins to burn when the engine is started after the procedure, turning into white smoke from the exhaust pipe.
To reduce smoke, we recommend removing any liquid remaining in the cylinders. This can be done using a tube with a syringe that comes with the drug. If necessary, it can be extended with any plastic tube. Also, if the fluid is not pumped out, starting may be difficult, and thick white smoke will take longer. There is no need to worry about the catalyst - the drug burns out gradually and does not harm it.
Myth 8. After decoking, you can drive to a car service center and change the oil there.
In principle, it is possible. But a clear answer to this question depends on how much oil you have in the system, what quality it is, how long it takes to get to the service station, at what speed, what the load on the car will be, etc., etc. Therefore, we recommend changing the oil without leaving the cash register - that is, immediately after decarbonization, and not embarking on risky voyages.
Myth 9. After decoking it will only get worse because compression in the cylinders will drop.
As a rule, old engines are literally overgrown with deposits. Because of this, the pistons and rings wear out a lot. If you carry out decoking on such a car, you will find out that over the years of operation the parts have worn out considerably. Therefore, compression drops and starting becomes difficult. If treating the engine with ML202 - ML203 NOVATOR did not give good results, then it’s time for the engine to be rebuilt.
Myth 10. After the procedure, the engine will not start
During engine decoking, the cylinders are wetted with liquid. If they are not properly dried, the engine may not start the first time, but only after several attempts. Therefore, after the procedure, it is recommended to wipe the candles dry and remove excess drug from the cylinders.
And sometimes the matter is not at all in the decarbonization procedure. It happens that the procedure was carried out using our drug according to all the rules. But the car never starts. It turns out that the high-voltage coils on the car are reversed. If you return them to their places, the engine will start with half a turn!
That is why we insist that you must follow the instructions strictly. And the phrase that a motorist who decides to carry out the decarbonization procedure must have basic skills in engine maintenance also appears on the box for a reason. So be careful, follow the recommendations of specialists, and then your engine will delight you with quiet and flawless operation!
October 6, 2017Information about cleaning the engine from carbon deposits (otherwise known as decoking) will be useful to those car enthusiasts who constantly operate one car for a long time and try to maintain it themselves. This procedure is, rather, preventive in nature, although in some cases it allows you to revive the power unit and extend the mileage before major repairs by 5–20 thousand km. How to decarbonize an engine with your own hands and what means are used for this, read in this publication.
Where does carbon deposits come from and where does it accumulate?
The cleaning procedure is not a panacea and does not always help, and sometimes gives the exact opposite effect. To use the technique correctly and on time, you need to understand the reason for the formation of deposits and the consequences of this phenomenon.
The cylinder-piston (CPG) and valve group of an internal combustion engine operates under difficult conditions - at high pressure and temperature. Over time, the rubbing surfaces of the parts wear out, and the seals lose their tightness, which is why engine oil begins to penetrate into the combustion chambers. The combustion conditions of the air-fuel mixture worsen as the lubricant burns out and forms a hard deposit on all accessible surfaces:
- piston skirts and chamber walls - first of all;
- side surfaces of the pistons in contact with the cylinder walls;
- the front planes of the valves and their internal surfaces adjacent to the seats;
- grooves for piston rings and holes for draining liquid lubricant (located deep in the groove of the oil scraper ring).
At the same time, the electrodes of the spark plugs become covered with soot, which reduces the quality of spark formation.
When the amount of lubricant penetrating inside the cylinder becomes critical, black coke clogs all possible cracks and holes. Because of this, the rings get stuck in the grooves (in the jargon they lie), causing the actual compression in the cylinders to drop by 50-90%. A valve that is burnt on the seat side will not close hermetically, and then the compression pressure will drop completely to zero - the cylinder will completely fail. The consequences can be prevented if the engine is decarbonized in time.
When to decarbonize the engine?
The procedure gives a positive result if performed in a timely manner. You can’t delay it too much - you’ll just waste your money, because chemicals are not cheap. When decarbonization becomes useless:
- When driving for a long time with high oil consumption. If the engine “devours” 1 liter of lubricant per 1000 km or more, and you do not take any measures for 2–4 months, then get ready to make major repairs. The carbon deposits will clog the rings and oil drain holes so much that chemicals will not help, only mechanical cleaning.
- If compression in one or two cylinders has dropped to zero. This indicates burnt valves that the cleaner will not pick up.
- If noise or knocking occurs in the engine, requiring immediate replacement of parts.
You can perform decoking at your own risk, but with the symptoms listed, the chances of success are extremely low. Sometimes the opposite effect is observed - after cleaning, the compression in the engine drops and further driving becomes impossible, the engine loses a lot of power.
The reason for the phenomenon is the same carbon deposits. By covering all accessible surfaces, the coke begins to serve as a seal instead of the piston rings and, together with the lubricant, creates increased pressure in the chamber, sufficient to ignite the fuel mixture (so-called oil compression). After cleaning, the seal deposit disappears, and the pressure in the cylinders drops due to wear of the CPG elements. The motor refuses to work.
Practice shows that a special liquid for engine decarbonization should be used at a consumption of engine lubricant of 0.3–0.5 liters per 1 thousand kilometers. At this moment, intensive carbon deposits begin, but irreversible consequences have not yet occurred. If the culprits of the oil burn are valve seals, then after the procedure they can be changed and driven over 20 thousand km, provided that the CPG is in satisfactory condition.
Selecting a cleaning product
In car stores and markets you can find a wide variety of chemicals that are declared by manufacturers as effective cleaners of coke from power unit parts. Which of them are used most often and have earned a positive reputation:
- Mitsubishi Shumma;
- GZox;
- BJ-211;
- Lavr.
The first 2 drugs are liquid in aerosol packaging with a capacity of 220 and 300 ml, respectively, pumped into cylinders through a tube. The remaining two products are poured in using a syringe. As a rule, one package - a can or bottle - is enough to service one four-cylinder engine with a working volume of up to 1.6 liters. For higher power engines with 6–12 cylinders, 2–3 tanks will be needed.
A few words about the best way to clean the engine. The undisputed leader is considered to be Mitsubishi Shumma, tested in practice by many master mechanics. There is only one drawback - the price of the drug is too high (about 30 USD per can). An alternative is GZox aerosol, which shows similar results at half the cost. Liquids BJ-211 and Lavr close the list of the best cleaners present on the automotive chemicals market.
Advice. You should not use old “old-fashioned” methods to decarbonize the engine of a modern car, pouring a mixture of acetone with solvent (kerosene) and other ineffective liquids into the cylinders. They act too slowly and do not dissolve carbon deposits well.
Preparing to remove carbon deposits
Before decarbonizing the cylinder-piston group of the engine, it is necessary to thoroughly prepare. First of all, allocate time – the entire procedure takes 8–15 hours. The exact holding time is indicated on the packaging of the cleaning fluid. It is advisable to time the operation at the time of oil change, since some of the dissolved coke will drain into the crankcase and the lubricant will have to be changed in any case.
To decarbonize a worn-out engine yourself, you should prepare the following materials and spare parts:
- cleaning agent;
- engine oil and filter;
- new spark plugs;
- bolts - plugs that fit the thread instead of lambda probes.
There is no need to create special conditions for carrying out work; it is enough to have a flat area near the house or a garage. It is advisable to have a compressor as equipment, but you can do without it.
The preparatory stage includes the following operations:
- Warm up the power unit to a temperature of 60–70 °C, which is necessary to activate most cleaners.
- Unscrew the oxygen sensors from the exhaust tract and install the plugs from the bolts. The goal is to protect expensive electronic components from clogging and soot.
- Support the vehicle with wheel chocks and lift any drive wheel.
Decarbonization instructions
When warming up the power unit before cleaning, it is worth pouring a flushing compound into the crankcase - “five minutes” in order to remove dirt from the oil channels as much as possible. You should also measure the compression on a hot engine in advance, this will help you see the result before and after decarbonization.
Perform further actions in this order:
- Carefully read the instructions on the cleaning product packaging and find out how much liquid needs to be poured into each cylinder of your engine.
- Remove the spark plugs and clean them thoroughly with a metal brush, rinse with gasoline and blow out.
- While turning the drive wheel by hand with 5th gear engaged, set all pistons to the middle position, measuring the depth with a long screwdriver.
- Lowering the tube one by one into the spark plug holes, fill the cylinders with aerosol from a spray can. Decarbonization of the Lavr engine is carried out using a syringe (included with the drug).
- Screw the spark plugs back in without tightening them all the way.
- Leave for 8–15 hours, periodically moving the crankshaft by turning the wheel. The goal is to help fluid penetrate between the piston rings.
After the time specified in the instructions has passed, unscrew the spark plugs again and try to pump out the dissolved dirt from the cylinders with a syringe, and then blow it thoroughly with a compressor. The better you can clean out the remaining coke, the faster the engine will start.
Install the old spark plugs and start the engine without increasing the speed above 1500 rpm. Let it warm up and “spit out” pieces of carbon deposits through the exhaust tract. After 10–15 minutes of engine operation, when the smoke from the exhaust decreases, return the lambda probes to their place and begin replacing the engine lubricant.
Screw in new spark plugs last, after cleaning the power unit and changing the oil. Before installing spark plugs, re-measure the compression and make sure that the measure has a positive effect. If the result is negative, begin preparations for disassembling and overhauling the motor.
Decarbonization of a diesel engine differs in the method of filling the cylinders with a chemical. Since there are no spark plugs, the fluid is poured through the injector holes. The latter will have to be dismantled after first releasing the fuel pressure in the system and turning off the pump.
For that group of people who have not encountered this unusual word before or have simply forgotten it, it is worth clarifying. The word “decarbonization” refers to the process of removing accumulated solid deposits that form on the pistons. But in addition to the pistons, it is necessary to regularly decarbonize the oil scraper rings - this will be discussed in our article.
This is not a panacea for all engine ailments, but just another opportunity to extend the life of your “steel comrade”. It is customary to carry out this procedure in spring or autumn, preparing your swallow for the new season. And if earlier drivers took on this “dirty” business with their own hands, then the modern generation most often resorts to the services of specialists. Such changes are most likely associated with new engine models (V-shaped versions), for which it is quite difficult to get to the spark plugs or injectors. But let's take things in order...
The technical condition of oil scraper rings affects a number of factors:
- engine power;
- oil and fuel consumption;
- exhaust toxicity level.
The set of piston rings (they also include oil scraper rings) consists of:
- lower oil scraper ring;
- compression and oil scraper ring;
- upper compression ring.
The role of each element is extremely important in the life of the engine, so you need to check the performance of their rings regularly.
1 – oil scraper rings. 2 – set of piston rings
The main task of such rings is to remove heat from the piston. Overheating will lead to unpleasant consequences that affect the operation of the unit as a whole (the engine may simply jam). We are talking about such consequences as scuffing and burnouts in the piston. In addition to heat removal, the combustion chamber is sealed and the lubrication of the rubbing elements of the cylinder is regulated. This, as you yourself know, prevents parts from overheating during friction and their premature wear. And, given the current prices for spare parts, it will be much cheaper to periodically check the condition of the rings than to change the piston group every few years.
Before we touch on the topic of malfunctions and options for decarbonizing rings, let’s talk a little about the structural properties of oil scraper rings. The popularity of one-piece parts in the modern automotive market is quite low, and some of them are no longer produced. Their high rigidity makes them unsuitable for complete removal of oil from the surface of the part due to insufficient adhesion.
Parts are produced that consist of three or two parts. The first set consists of a pair of steel plates and a coil spring. Mainly used on gasoline engines. Among all the advantages, one can note its maximum fit to the surface of the part along all planes of contact. Two-piece rings include a spring and a ring. The high flexibility of the spring allows the part to fit as tightly as possible to the walls. The density of the spring makes the structure solid.
The main reasons for coking
When the engine is running, the fuel mixture does not burn completely and this contributes to the accumulation of combustion products in the cylinders. Using low-quality fuel, coking of the piston rings occurs much faster. The same thing happens with oil that enters the combustion chamber.
- Failure of oil seals may result in lubricants entering the combustion chamber. In such cases, replace the caps. This will help improve engine compression and, as a result, increase its power.
- Coking of the oil scraper piston rings (this is exactly the case we will consider in today’s article) also leads to the formation of oil on the cylinder walls. When oil burns, carbon deposits appear, which leads to a drop in compression.
To solve the problem of engine coking, there are special products that you can buy at any auto store. They are called decarbonizers.
Decarbonizers
If carbon deposits appear on the cylinder walls, it must be removed immediately. Various chemicals are used for this:
- Haddo;
- Laurel;
- Titanium;
- Edial;
- SURM.
Among the most effective technologies, it should be noted that the chemical is poured directly into the engine cylinder.
The most common means for decarbonization There are also less complex operations, although experts do not recommend resorting to them. But despite this, many drivers choose simplicity (special “chemistry” is added to oil or gasoline). In many cases this method really helps.
Checking the condition of the rings
The piston rings work intensively, which causes them to wear out. A standard set wears out after 150-200 thousand kilometers, but there are also cases when a new set of rings lasts for more than 500 thousand. It all depends on the correct operation of the engine, otherwise it will be necessary to start repairing it a little earlier than scheduled. The quality of the oil or neglect to replace it can also negatively affect the technical condition of the rings, leading to their sticking. If you often drive on dusty roads, then the condition of the fuel and air filters should always be in perfect condition (inspect the filter elements regularly).
During the inspection, pay attention to the smoke coming from the exhaust pipe. There are many signs by which you can determine the need for repair or replacement of rings. Here are some of them:
- oil consumption has increased sharply;
- after stopping or while starting to move, bluish smoke is observed;
- oil seals and (or) gaskets are blackened by oil, even if you recently changed it;
- The spark plugs have become dirty. If this is the case, then replacing the rings is inevitable.
If any signs of wear are detected, first check the condition of the oil scraper rings. Diagnosing caps is a fairly simple procedure. To do this, you only need to disconnect the engine ventilation pipe. Increased pressure of crankcase gases will indicate wear of the caps and the need to replace them.
How to decarbonize an engine step by step
There are many ways to decarbonize piston rings, some of which are not practiced at service stations. But let’s first consider one of the most reliable options.
Step 1. Before performing the procedure, the engine must be warmed up well.
Step 2. Unscrew all spark plugs.
Before using the product, unscrew the spark plugs Step 3. Raise the drive wheel with a jack, and, having engaged a high gear, rotate it until the required placement of the pistons is obtained (they should be in the middle position). Use a screwdriver to locate the pistons.
Step 4. In this case, we use a product called SURM, as it is considered very effective. So, fill the syringe with 25 mg of the chemical and pour it into the cylinder through the spark plug opening. This procedure must be done for each piston.
Some kits are sold with a syringe Step 5. After pouring the liquid, you need to wait 10-15 minutes until it removes the carbon deposits. During this entire time, turn the wheel little by little (15 degrees) so that the SURM can reach the rings. Moreover, the actions should be performed as follows: every 3 minutes, turn the wheel 5 times. There is no need for unnecessary movements.
Step 6. Disconnect the central wire from the distributor and secure its terminals a few millimeters from ground. This will allow you to protect the ignition coil from burning out.
Step 7 With the gear in neutral, turn the starter for ten seconds. Thanks to this, you can get rid of accumulated fluid in the cylinders. It is extremely important to carry out this procedure, because if you do not throw away the remaining liquid, then after decoking the engine, a water hammer may occur when starting it. And it is extremely difficult to predict the consequences of water hammer.
By rotating the starter you will get rid of any remaining fluid in the cylinders. Step 8 Now you can screw the spark plugs back in and start the engine. At first, the exhaust gases will smell disgusting, but don't be afraid of this. Soon everything will pass.
Now you can put the candles back After starting, the engine must run idle for at least 15 minutes. Only after this can you touch it. After 150-200 kilometers, monitor the oil consumption, comparing the current figures with the old ones. Believe me, the difference will be noticeable.
Why SURM?
Yes, everything is quite simple: the SURM product has proven its effectiveness for many years. The product is domestic, which makes it easily accessible. You can purchase the product at any auto store. Among all the advantages, the main thing to note is that after decarbonization there is no need to change the oil. Of course, there are many other drugs that are no less effective, but after using them you need to change the oil.
Perhaps one of the best remedies today Using the SURM decarbonizer, you will receive:
- increase in engine power;
- reduction of fuel and oil consumption;
- reducing the amount of harmful emissions.
Make a fool pray to God, he will bruise his forehead - the famous Russian proverb emphasizes the following situation like nothing else. The result is in your hands, and if they are crooked, then no SURM will help you. In this case, it is better not to take risks and contact specialists immediately.
Old-fashioned method
An old but effective method has been used for many years, the secrets of which we will tell you. To do this, you will need to prepare a special product by mixing two elements:
- acetone;
- kerosene.
The proportions may vary depending on your tastes, but usually use one part kerosene and three parts acetone. Some drivers introduce innovations in the form of an additional ingredient - oil, but this is already a “gag”, since there is no sense in motor oil in this case. The amount of product should be taken based on 300 grams for a four-cylinder engine.
Having prepared a special liquid, you can begin decoking. Unscrew the spark plugs on a warm (!!!) engine and pour the prepared product into the cylinders. This should be done on a warm engine, and not on a hot one. Be careful, otherwise acetone may boil at high temperatures, and the consequences can be catastrophic for your car. Screw the spark plugs back in, and after waiting 9-12 hours, unscrew them. This is necessary in order to get rid of excess fluid in the cylinders (this is done by rotating the starter). You don’t have to wait all this time, but start the engine right away. This will not bring any serious danger, but the candles will immediately become dirty.
Important! Before turning the engine with the spark plugs removed, be sure to turn off the ignition signal (turn off the caviar supply). While purging the cylinders, cover the engine with a rag, thereby protecting the painted parts from damage.
Upon completion of the procedure, start the engine, and, choosing different rotation modes, drive a little along the city streets. At the same time, try not to drive past the gays, as they may be attracted by the smoky plume coming from the exhaust pipe.
The old fashioned way is good in its own way It is recommended to repeat this procedure for maximum effect, add fresh oil (preferably inexpensive) and drain it immediately. Replace the oil filter (this is mandatory). That's it, now you can ride your steel friend with fresh strength!
Removing carbon deposits with water
Yes Yes! It didn't seem to you. It's water. Many resourceful drivers have managed to use water to remove carbon deposits. Moreover, this method is practically not inferior to traditional ones (using chemicals). The famous water decarbonization is a surefire method that modern motorists use.
What will you need?
To implement this relatively inexpensive method, you need to take care of the following:
- dropper;
- thin rubber or plastic hose;
- 1.5-2 liters of distilled water;
- special tee for connecting the washer.
Distilled water must be in a plastic bottle. Why? – more about this below.
You can also use a bottle for water. Decarbonization with water
The process looks like this:
- connect the distilled water in the bottle to the suction pump. To do this, use a dropper. If you were unable to get distilled water, then you can use regular water - the filter system in the dropper will purify the water.
- When the engine reaches 2000 rpm, water will begin to flow.
- Two drops per second entering the cylinder at idle speed will quite be able to cope with the carbon deposits formed there.
You will be able to see the result almost immediately: the carbon deposits will gradually begin to disappear, and engine operation will become more economical and dynamic.
Modern gasoline has improved greatly when compared to Soviet gasoline. But this still will not protect your engine from the formation of coke (carbon deposits) on the piston rings. The same applies to motor oil: many motorists claim that the oil used to be of very high quality and clean. This may be true, but today not a single auto mechanic can say that when using it, carbon deposits do not form. Due to persistent deposits, sooner or later it is necessary to carry out major repairs.
Basic misconceptions about decarbonization
This topic is quite controversial and causes a lot of disagreement among motorists of different generations. Let's look at some misconceptions you may have already encountered.
- For modern engines, decoking is not necessary. All vehicles are operated under harsh conditions, especially in winter. This factor plays a key role in the formation of coke. Modern piston systems are no exception.
- LAVR and XADO products are considered the only ways to “treat” a car. This is not entirely true. Of course, such anti-cokes can have a good effect on the condition of the engine, but it is advisable to use the products only for small-displacement standard engines. But if you have a 2-liter vertical engine, then you will need a separate product to fill the piston crown.
- The cost of anti-cokes is very high. Only inexperienced drivers can think this way, because chemicals are much cheaper than having an engine overhauled at a service station. In addition, there are many domestic manufacturers of decarbonizing liquid, whose prices and quality are in an ideal balance.
- The operating principle of the products is different for each engine. And this, as you may have already guessed, is just a misconception. All repair operations are carried out in the same way, according to a standard scheme. There is no need for you to look for separate formulations for diesel or gasoline engines. The only condition is that you do not carry out work in winter.
- Decarbonization can also be carried out on a cold engine. In fact, warming up the engine before carrying out such a procedure is mandatory. If you neglect this, you will not be able to get a positive result.
- Using special additives for decoking oil scraper rings, carbon deposits will completely disappear. This is not at all true, since to clean white carbon deposits you need to use a concentrated product, the caustic composition of which can damage engine parts. In addition, excessive cleanliness is not at all necessary from a technical point of view.
Some more useful information
Once cleaning is complete, your car will smoke a little. Get rid of any remaining fluid on the cylinders and the car will produce much less smoke.
Some manufacturers of cleaning products include a special syringe in the preparation. It is used to introduce fluid into the engine cylinder.
There are products that do not require unscrewing the candles. The most common of them is Edial. The instructions are quite simple: just pour the drug into the fuel tank immediately before refueling.
Protecting your car from carbon deposits
It is better to prevent the appearance of soot than to deal with it later. It will cost less, and the nervous system will remain intact. In order to protect your car from carbon deposits, you must adhere to the following rules:
- do not use too low revs for driving;
- try not to let your car sit idle for a long time;
- pay special attention to warming up, especially in winter;
- carry out timely oil changes;
- use special additives.
But if the car takes more gasoline and oil than normal and decarbonization is inevitable - use one of the methods given and cure your “iron horse”!
