Unfortunately, not every person has the opportunity to purchase an ATV in a store. All more or less interesting models are now quite expensive, and buying a used ATV is always a certain risk. In this regard, many motorists are advised to make a four-wheeled all-terrain vehicle with their own hands, using an engine and spare parts from some old Soviet motorcycle. Earlier, we already told you about how to make an ATV from a Ural motorcycle. In today's article, we will talk about other donors that you can use if you decide to assemble an ATV with your own hands.
Why is it worth assembling an ATV with your own hands?
Putting together a four-wheeled all-terrain vehicle with your own hands definitely helps to solve several problems. The first reason why people decide to make a homemade quad bike is, of course, a small budget. If we analyze the market prices for ATVs, we can understand that such vehicles can be considered almost a luxury. Prices for the simplest and low-power models start at 150 thousand rubles, for example, the Yamaha Blaster YFS200. In principle, such a single "quadric" is enough, but the power will always be lacking.
But models of ATVs with engines with a volume of 500-800 cm 3 will cost much more, about 500 thousand rubles. You can also consider Chinese models, such as the Russian manufacturer Stels, but they will have to be well monitored. New all-terrain vehicles of this brand will cost approximately 300-400 thousand rubles, but the engines are already much more interesting - 45-70 hp.
Nuances in the operation of a homemade "quadric"
If you definitely decided to make an ATV with your own hands, then you should know about the intricacies of its operation. In principle, if you need an all-terrain vehicle to ride in impassable places where patrol cars have never been, then there is probably nothing to worry about. You will have to face problems if you plan to drive even in small settlements, which are sometimes visited by patrol cars. Having caught you without documents for this vehicle, then with a probability of 99% it will be taken away from you. The whole difficulty lies in registering a home-made ATV, because the traffic police will most likely refuse you. In a good way, you can register a homemade product, but this is extremely difficult to do. Therefore, assembling a homemade ATV makes sense only if you operate it in some wilderness.
Making a choice
So, how to make an ATV with your own hands? When creating a homemade ATV, we need to decide on a donor, that is, a motorcycle that will underlie our project. Old Soviet motorcycles are perfect for a four-wheeled all-terrain vehicle. From them we can borrow an engine with a gearbox, a frame, a steering wheel and, if desired, such details as a tank, a seat and other elements. Since we already had an article about a homemade ATV from a Ural motorcycle, in this review we will talk about how to make an ATV based on an IZH motorcycle.
For our purpose, almost all models of motorcycles from the Izhevsk plant are suitable for us. The only thing that is important to understand is the power of the engine. Still, the end result will be a rather heavy construction, so the best solution would be to use the latest models - IZH Jupiter 5 or IZH Planet 5. It makes no sense to consider more interesting models, like IZH Planet Sport, because finding them is quite difficult, and if possible , then it is better to restore them, because the motorcycle is quite rare and interesting. We turn to the main thing, how to make an ATV and what is needed for this.
Rear suspension
Once you have decided on a donor, in our case it is IZH Jupiter 5, you need to completely disassemble the motorcycle. After disassembly, we need a frame on which everything was held, including the engine. It is quite logical that in order to increase the reliability of the structure, the frame must be strengthened in several places.
Now it is necessary to weld the rear axle so that instead of a wheel, a block of bearings with a chain drive can stand on the axle. An example, you can see in the photo. As a suspension, you can use ordinary shock absorbers from a motorcycle, and parts from an old Zhiguli car are suitable for the rear axle. You can go a more complicated way and install a monoshock absorber, but then again you will have to look for spare parts from the car, for example, from the same Zhiguli or Oka.
Front suspension
Once the rear suspension is finished and installed, it's time to move on to the front of the bike, which is a bit trickier. In the case where we were dealing with the rear suspension, we had the opportunity to choose how much shock absorber will be installed. When creating the front suspension, we have only one option - to use two shock absorbers.
Oka's car is perfect for the role of a donor for the front of the ATV. From it we need shock absorbers, swivel units and a steering trapezoid. However, be prepared for the fact that the spare parts will still have to be changed - something to be welded, sawed off, filed. Also a good and simpler option would be to install a monoblock with fixed wheel planes. Then you do not have to look for a steering linkage, couplings, hinges and other spare parts.
A monoblock is a really simple option, because it takes literally an hour to install. The only disadvantage of this design of the front suspension is a heavier mechanism. Turning the steering wheel will be somewhat more difficult than with a suspension with shock absorbers.
Engine
Many wondering how to make an ATV with their own hands, they understand that it is worth starting with the engine. Indeed, the main detail in the future ATV is the engine. The end result, and indeed the whole structure, depends on how powerful it will be. Of course, you can leave the engine from the donor motorcycle, but in the end the “quad” will turn out to be not so powerful. If you are a little more serious about creating an all-terrain vehicle, then installing a more powerful engine would be an excellent solution. We hope that we have answered your question about how to make an ATV yourself.
A considerable number of offers on the ATV market for young drivers today allow you to choose a modification with different characteristics and for any wallet. If you are not ready to spend an impressive amount to purchase an ATV, have a creative streak, minimal technical knowledge and some special skills, you can make an ATV for a child with your own hands. Of course, you will need some tools.
On the Internet you can find many interesting ideas for an ATV, perhaps you have your own ideas. Their implementation will surely bring you great joy of creativity and will allow you to get an original ATV at minimal financial cost.
How to make an ATV for a child with your own hands
A children's ATV can be made independently from old motor vehicles and additional spare parts. The main thing is that the vehicle you made is safe - after all, we are talking about children! If you plan to use new parts, then choose only high-quality ones, and used materials need the most critical evaluation. This is especially true for fasteners: bolts, screws, etc.
What will be required to create a children's all-terrain vehicle?
First of all, decide on the appearance of your unique ATV and its dimensions. You can make an off-road unit for a child of any complexity - it all depends on your knowledge and skills. If you don't want to spend months building an electric quad bike, opt for a simpler design - in the future, as your child grows, it can be improved.
The basis of any vehicle is the frame. A do-it-yourself frame drawing of a children's ATV is necessary in order to maintain the accuracy of the dimensions of all structural elements. Surely you can make a drawing yourself. If you're looking to strengthen and upgrade your ATV in the future, then the frame should have a good margin of safety in suspension. For the frame, you can use it as a square profile of a suitable size (for example, 25x25mm), a ¾ inch pipe or a finished structure from a donor model - it all depends on your desire, imagination and capabilities. If the frame is made independently, pay attention to the quality of the welds.
Wheels, braking and steering systems, shock absorbers are the next step in assembling an ATV for a child. Most masters recommend choosing new wheels - you can, for example, take wheels for karting or even for a garden wheelbarrow Ø320 mm. If you are making an ATV for an older child, he will probably want to ride it off-road - then choose wheels with a wide tread and buy stamped wheels (albeit the simplest ones). This will increase the safety of the ATV and allow the child to overcome serious obstacles.
A two-wheel drive for a children's ATV from an electric motor of sufficient power through a gearbox (homemade or ready-made) is a good solution. The throttle button on the steering wheel will please your young driver and make the children's ATV look like a real one. The steering system is an important element to ensure the safety of the little driver and ensure that he can easily control his box.
Do-it-yourself electric ATV: engine and battery
The battery and engine for a homemade ATV are chosen based on the capabilities and needs of the driver. So, you can use a couple of engines from the Volga or a screwdriver, take an electric motor from a donor vehicle (for example, an electric scooter) or use your own idea. The main thing is that the electric motor provides sufficient speed for the child - the smallest will be enough for 5-8 km / h, older children will need more speed, which means that the engine is more powerful.
As for the battery, it is important to install it in such a way that there is no need to disassemble the entire structure for recharging. A battery from a donor scooter, an uninterruptible power supply or another one that you can find will do.
When all the main components are assembled, it's time to deal with the appearance of the ATV - after all, aesthetics are extremely important for the baby. Ideally, you can use body kit elements from an old non-working model of a children's ATV, but your imagination can tell you other original ideas.
Working on assembling an ATV will not only allow you to get a unique vehicle for little money. It will bring pleasure not only to adults, but also to children, since making a children's ATV with your own hands is an exciting, very interesting and useful activity for every man.
Editor
"Children's ATVs"
New posts:
Children's electric ATV El-Sport Junior ATV 500W 36V/12Ah
| Speed: | 25 km/h |
| Power: | 500W |
| Power reserve: | 20 km | 60 kg |
| Weight: | 40 kg |
| Wheel diameter: | 13" |
| Battery: | |
| Charging time: | 6-8 hours |
| Suspension: | Front and rear spring |
| Drive unit: | Chain |
| Brakes: | Disk |
| Dimensions: | 1020×660×650 |
| Color: | Green, black and white |
| Additionally: | Wheelbase 13x5-6 |
| A type: | electric quad bike |
Price: 36845 rubles 29900 rubles
Children's ATV on the battery El-Sport Kid ATV 800W 36V/12Ah
| Speed: | 25 km/h |
| Power: | 800W |
| Power reserve: | 20 km | 60 kg |
| Weight: | 40 kg |
| Wheel diameter: | 13" |
| Battery: | SLA (Lead Acid) 36V/12Ah |
| Charging time: | 6-8 hours |
| Suspension: | Front and rear spring |
| Drive unit: | Chain |
| Brakes: | Disk |
| Dimensions: | 1020×660×650 |
| Color: | Orange |
| Additionally: | Wheelbase 13x5 - 6" |
| A type: | electric quad bike |
Price: 37670 rub 34500 rub
El-Sport Children ATV 1000W 36V/12Ah
| Speed: | 25 km/h |
| Power: | 1000W |
| Power reserve: | 20 km | 60 kg |
| Weight: | 55 kg |
| Wheel diameter: | 13" |
| Battery: | SLA (Lead Acid) 36V/12Ah |
| Charging time: | 6-8 hours |
| Suspension: | Front and rear spring |
| Drive unit: | Chain |
| Brakes: | Disk |
| Dimensions: | 1020×660×650 |
| Color: | Green, blue spider |
| Age: | From 4 years old |
| Additionally: | Wheelbase 13×5 - 6" |
| A type: | electric quad bike |
Price: 43470 rubles 37900 rubles
Electric ATV Mytoy 500D
| Speed: | 35 km/h |
| Power: | 500W |
| Power reserve: | 35 km | 90 kg |
| Weight: | 70 kg |
| Material: | steel, tubular |
| Wheel diameter: | 14" |
| Battery: | 48V(4х12V)/20Ah |
| Brakes: | |
| Dimensions: | 1150x550x700 |
| Color: | Autumn camouflage, hip-hop, matte khaki, red |
| Dampers: | front/rear |
| Age: | from 4 years |
| Additionally: | The motor is electric, brushless, 500 watts, built into the rear axle; Full rear axle differential; Speedometer with battery charge indicator. Front LED headlights. turn signals; Remote control on/off at a distance of up to 50 meters; Ability to set automatic shutdown for 5-10 minutes; Speed limiter from 5 to 35 km/h; Reverse; Pneumatic rubber tubeless tires 14x4.10-6; Reinforced tie rods; Steering hubs on bearings; |
Price: 63000 rub
Electric ATV Mytoy 750E differential
| Power: | 600W |
| Power reserve: | 25 km | 100 kg |
| Weight: | 70 kg |
| Material: | Reinforced steel frame, tubular |
| Wheel diameter: | 16" |
| Battery: | 48V(4х12V)20Ah |
| Suspension: | Independent front |
| Brakes: | Front/rear manual disc hydraulic |
| Speeds: | Three speed limiters: First speed: 7-9 km/h; Second speed: 12-15 km/h; Third speed: up to 25 km/h; |
| Dimensions: | 1400x760x900 |
| Color: | yellow camouflage, autumn camouflage, maple |
| Dampers: | Oily |
| Age: | from 6 years old |
| Additionally: | The motor is electric, brushless, 600 watts, built into the rear axle; Full rear axle differential; Speedometer with battery charge indicator; Headlight; rear stop; Sound signal; turn signals; Mirrors; Remote control on/off at a distance of up to 50 meters; Ability to set automatic shutdown for 5-10 minutes; Reverse; Tires pneumatic rubber tubeless 16x8.00-7; |
Price: 77700 rub
Electric ATV Mytoy 500D Lux
| Speed: | 30 km/h |
| Power: | 500W |
| Power reserve: | 35 km | 90 kg |
| Weight: | 70 kg |
| Material: | steel, tubular |
| Wheel diameter: | 14" |
| Battery: | 48V(5х12V)/20Ah |
| Brakes: | Rear foot disc hydraulic |
| Dimensions: | 1150x550x700 |
| Dampers: | front/rear |
| Age: | from 4 years |
| Additionally: | The motor is electric, brushless, 500 watts, built into the rear axle; Full rear axle differential; Speedometer with battery charge indicator; Mufflers-speakers imitating the sound of the engine when you press the gas; Front LED headlights; turn signals; Remote control on/off at a distance of up to 50 meters; Ability to set automatic shutdown for 5-10 minutes; Speed limiter from 5 to 30 km/h; Reverse; Pneumatic rubber tubeless tires 14x4.10-6; Reinforced tie rods; Steering wheel bearings. |
Price: 69300 rub
Electric buggy MYTOY 500W
| Speed: | 30 km/h |
| Power: | 1000W |
| Power reserve: | 30 km | 60 kg |
| Weight: | 68 kg |
| Wheel diameter: | 13" |
| Battery: | 48V/20Ah (removable) |
| Brakes: | Disc hydraulic |
| Speeds: | First 5-8 km/h; Second 15-18 km/h; Third 25-30 km/h |
| Dimensions: | 1330x810x930 |
| Color: | Red Blue |
| Age: | From 7 years old |
| Additionally: | Charging indicator; Safety belt; Smooth gas pedal; Reverse speed: (reverse); Seat adjustment (forward, backward); Frame steel, tubular; Front LED headlights; LED strip around the perimeter; 13x5.00-6" (rubber, pneumatic, tubeless) |
Price: 82900 rub
We present the ATV of our regular author S. Pletnev from the city of Ocher, Perm Territory. Another machine built by him testifies to the increased design level and professional skills of its creator. However, judge for yourself...
A year has passed since, when leaving the garage, I tried my first ATV with rear-wheel drive (). And then the thought came: why not now make an all-wheel drive ATV (from the English All Terrain Vehicle - an all-terrain vehicle; similar cars received such an international designation).
Fortunately, at that time a buyer turned up for a buggy (), and the proceeds went to the implementation of a new project.
A year of work for 3-4 hours after work and on weekends - and the new car was ready for testing, there were only small (and I would say pleasant) improvements: connecting lighting equipment, installing an ignition switch, rear-view mirrors and other little things.
The power unit for my ATV was the engine from the Oka car - 32-horsepower, two-cylinder, four-stroke, liquid-cooled. And if for a car its power was often not enough, then for an ATV it should have been more than enough.
Machine frame - spatial, welded. Its main elements (two pairs of spars: upper and lower) are made of round pipes of the VGP-25 type (water and gas pipelines with a diameter of 25 mm and a wall thickness of 3.2 mm), auxiliary (struts, cross members, etc.) - from VGT-20. The spars are bent: the lower ones are in the horizontal plane, the upper ones are in the vertical one. He bent pipes on a pipe bender, "to the cold." Eyelets (pairs of ears) for attaching the levers and shock absorbers of the suspension were welded to the frame immediately, and various brackets - as the components and assemblies were mounted (in "place").
1 - front wheel (from a Chevrolet Niva car, 2 pcs.);
2 - engine (from the car "Oka");
3 - front wheel drive transmission;
4 - gearbox (from the car "Oka");
5 - rear wheel drive transmission;
7 - rear wheel (from a Chevrolet Niva car, 2 pcs.);
8 - fuel tank (20-liter canister);
9 - rear trunk;
10 - silencer;
11 - passenger backrest (headrest from the Oka car);
12 - saddle;
13 - clutch basket (from the Oka car);
14 - gear lock lever;
15 - body kit (fiberglass);
16 - steering wheel (from the Ural motorcycle);
17 - instrument panel (from the car "Oka");
18 - front trunk
The transmission of the all-terrain vehicle is peculiar. Although the car is all-wheel drive, it does not have a transfer case. As you know, in the "Oka" the engine is located across, and on the ATV it is installed along. This made it possible to direct the output shafts from the gearbox (gearbox) not to the right and left wheels (as in a car), but to the front and rear axles. That's just the power unit itself, interlocked with the "basket" of the clutch and gearbox, had to be shifted slightly to the left relative to the longitudinal plane of symmetry in order to reduce the horizontal angle of the longitudinal articulated shafts of the transmission. Well, their vertical angles turned out to be insignificant.
The transmission was assembled from units of various domestic cars, mainly "VAZ" models. But ready-made industrial units also had to be finalized. For example, from the gearbox (from Oka), to ensure optimal (reduced) speed and increase torque, he removed the main gear pair and replaced it with a chain drive. The gearshift rod also made another one - elongated, with outlets on both sides of the gearbox. The stem can be fixed in three positions: for engaging 1st and 2nd gears, 3rd and 4th and reverse. The lever for selecting these positions is on the right side, and the gearshift lever is on the left.
Interwheel gearboxes - from the rear axles of the VAZ "classics", only their axle shafts, together with the "stockings", were removed and replaced with shafts with CV joints from front-wheel drive models. CV joints as hinges are also used in the remaining intermediate shafts of the transmission.
1 - motor (from the car "Oka");
2 - clutch (from the car "Oka");
3 - gearbox;
4 - CV joint (from the car VAZ-2108, 12 pcs);
5 - final drive gearbox with differential (from VAZ-2105, 2 pcs.);
6 - shaft (from a VAZ-2108 car, 6 pcs.);
7 - wheel (from the car "Chevrolet-Niva")
There are no low gears or differential locks.
Steering - motorcycle type (lever and shaft) at the top and automobile type (with steering rods) - at the bottom, only simplified, without a steering mechanism, with one bipod. The steering wheel was first used from a Minsk motorcycle, with a pipe diameter of 22 mm, but it turned out to be a little thin. Later I found and installed from the Ural motorcycle. The steering shaft is made of a pipe with a diameter of 20 mm and a wall thickness of 2.8 mm. At the lower end it has a stroke limiter. At the bottom, the shaft rests on a thrust bearing, and in the middle part it rotates in a detachable nylon bracket-sleeve.
The bipod is made of steel sheet 8 mm thick in a shape resembling the letter "T". A hole with a diameter of 20 mm is made at the edge of the "rack" - a steering shaft is inserted and welded into it, and in the ears there are conical holes for ball tips of steering rods. These holes are reinforced with suitable welded washers. The lugs of the bipod are slightly bent down so that they are almost parallel to the rods.
Wheels - 15-inch, from the Chevrolet Niva car. Tires with appropriate rim size 205/70 (width/height as a percentage of width) with off-road tread pattern. The running diameter of the wheel is about 660 mm.
1 - lower spar (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);
2 - upper spar (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);
3 - rack (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);
4 - support of the rear upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2.2 pcs.);
5 - rear brace (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);
6 - support of the front upper suspension arm (pipe d25x3.2, 2 pcs.);
7 - front brace (pipe d20x2.8, 2 pcs.);
8 - upper support of the front shock absorber (corner 35 × 35);
9 - rack of the upper support of the front shock absorber (sheet s5, 2 pcs.);
10 - front engine mount support post (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);
11 - rear support leg of the engine mount (sheet s3.2 pcs.);
12 - eyelets for fastening levers and shock absorbers of suspensions (sheet s5, 18 pairs);
13 - saddle mounting bracket (sheet s3, 2 pcs.);
14 - upper cross connection (pipe d20x2.8);
15 - lower cross connection (pipe d20x2.8.2 pcs.);
16 - radiator support (pipe d25x3.2 cut in half lengthwise, 2 pcs.);
17 - front console of the steps (pipe d20x2);
18 - rear console of the steps (pipe d20x2);
19 - connection of the front and rear consoles of the steps (pipe d20x2);
20 - footrest cross member (sheet s5, 4 pcs.);
21 - lug for fastening a fiberglass body kit (sheet s5, set)
Wheel suspension - independent, on two triangular transverse levers each (upper and lower) with shock absorbers from the Oka car (front). The levers are welded from round tubes of VGP-20 type. Elastic elements (springs) and shock absorbers - from the car "Oka" (rear). Wheel hubs and steering knuckles are welded into the wheel ends of the front levers - from the VAZ-2109 car. Both of them had to be improved. I installed wheel studs from the Niva in the hubs, and home-made swing arms in the front fists.
Silencer - self-made, two-section. To protect against temperature warping, the body kit covered it with a remote cover, and insulated the inlet pipe with asbestos.
ATV body kit - fiberglass. I pasted it for the first time, and therefore first studied the recommendations for the implementation of the relevant work. But as it turned out - this process is painstaking, although the result is worth it.
(a - upper arm of the front suspension; b - lower arm of the front suspension; c - lower arm of the rear suspension; d - upper arm of the rear suspension; all parts, except those noted specifically, are made of VGT-20 pipe):
1 - beam (2 pcs.);
2 - cross member;
3 - bushing (pipe d37x32, 2 pcs.);
4 - shock absorber mounting eye (steel, sheet s3);
5 - ball joint (from the steering rod of the Zhiguli car)
First, I made the required body kit contours from a steel square pipe with a section of 10x10x1 mm. Fortunately, this pipe easily bends even with hands over the knee. The contour was welded to the frame with the help of jumpers from the same pipe, in places where later (after gluing the body kit), it would be possible to cut off the “tacks” without difficulty. Then he bent the “wings” from hardboard (fibreboard) and fixed them with self-tapping screws to the contour and jumpers. Where the bend turned out to be steep, he attached separate strips from the same hardboard. The front end was removed with expanded polystyrene purchased at a hardware store. It was possible to use polystyrene foam or the same mounting foam, but polystyrene foam turned out to be a more suitable material - it is well cut with a sharp thin knife. I glued individual elements from it into a common structure on a mounting foam.
1 - steering shaft (pipe d20x2.8);
2 - steering wheel connection plate (steel, sheet s6);
3 - brace of the plate (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);
4 - detachable bracket-sleeve of the steering shaft (kapron, sheet s18);
5 - support washer (steel, sheet s6, 2 pcs.);
6 - bipod (steel, sheet 18);
7 - steering limiter (steel, sheet s6);
8 - bearing housing;
9 - thrust tip (steel, circle 15);
10 - thrust bearing
Falshbak - complex shape. It was not possible to bend it out of the hardboard. Therefore, having wrapped the engine with plastic wrap, I began to fill the place intended for it with layers of mounting foam. After each layer, drying is mandatory, otherwise the thick volume of foam may not dry inside. Filled in until the layers went beyond the contour. Finally, after the foam had completely dried, I began to draw the desired shape with a knife. The edges were smoothed with coarse-grained sandpaper.
Under the dashboard, a part of the Oka dashboard went into action. I fixed it on the blank, too, with the help of mounting foam. Since the foam is large-pored, the pores were filled with gypsum and then processed. When the shape of the blank began to correspond to the intended design and its surface became more or less smooth, I covered the blank with PF-115 paint. Since I was not going to make a matrix for gluing the body kit on the block, but immediately glued the body kit on it, followed by finishing the surface to an ideal state, then plastering and painting the block could be neglected.
So, the blockhead is ready and in order to glue a quality product, it took: 10 kg of epoxy resin, 1 kg of plasticizer for it and 1 kg of hardener, 15 linear meters of thin fiberglass, 5 m of glass mat, brushes, gloves. It is highly recommended to wear respiratory protective equipment. And the more expensive they are, the more reliable. But experience, as you know, you can’t buy, so I gained it in the process of work.
I used transparent adhesive tape as a separating layer between the block and the product. Carefully, without gaps, he pasted over the whole blockhead with stripes. It took only 1.5 rolls of wide tape.
I diluted the resin by 200 - 300 grams with a hardener and a plasticizer. I used measuring cups and syringes, which is not very convenient. Before that, I cut strips of fiberglass in such sizes that large canvases lay on even surfaces, and on irregularities, pieces of fabric could repeat them without making wrinkles. By the way, the fiberglass moderately stretches along the diagonal of the weaves, “flowing around” the desired shape.
First, he thickly smeared one section of the blockhead with epoxy resin, put fiberglass on it and impregnated it again with resin on top. I glued the adjacent piece of fabric using the same technology with an overlap of 3 - 5 cm. I had to work quickly - the resin sets quite quickly, and the higher its temperature, the faster. Yes, I also heated the resin a little near a powerful lighting lamp for better fluidity.
After wrapping the blockhead with fiberglass in one layer, I began to glue it with glass mat. I got the glass mat thick enough, and it turned out to be good for them to gain the thickness of the product. But it does not fit around bumps, so I used it only on flat (or with a slight deflection) surfaces and without overlap. Impregnation with resin was carried out in the same way as when working with fiberglass. It should only be taken into account that it takes a lot of resin to impregnate the stackomat, so you need to dilute it more. Uneven surfaces after gluing the stackomat were glued in several layers with a cloth. Each subsequent layer was applied after the previous one had set a little so that the resin did not leak. And since the process of gluing the body kit took more than one day, after a day break, it was necessary to “roughen” the surface with coarse sandpaper and degrease it - after all, the resin is completely cured during this time. The final layers on top of the mat were again covered with fiberglass, and not even in one layer.
Trunks:
a - front; b - rear
Since I needed a surface, as they say, the smoother the better, and there was not enough experience, dips and pits still remained - I filled them somewhere with one resin, and where with the imposition of pieces of fiberglass. Resin was a bit lacking. I bought more already in the hardware store, in boxes. I liked working with it more, because it was already packaged, and all that remained was to mix the components. And it dried faster than purchased at the company.
After the glued body kit had completely dried, I made cuts in it, dividing the product into three parts: rear fenders and back, false tank with underseat, front fenders and front. Carefully, slightly prying and pulling with his hands with picking, he separated the product in parts without much effort from the blockhead.
Now, having removed the parts, I began to process them separately, bringing them to the desired result. In general, the usual preparatory and painting work on the "whole" technology: first, rough grinding with the removal of large bulges of resin and fiberglass; then painstaking sealing of recesses with putty with fiberglass; then grinding the outer surface and priming with a plasticizer. In conclusion - painting with "metallic" and varnishing with a plasticizer.
Blockhead also neatly cut off and put in the far corner - just in case. The body kit was attached to specially made and welded "in place" mounts on the frame.
In conclusion, I welded front and rear trunks from thin-walled steel pipes with an outer diameter of 20 mm, and in addition to them, “kenguryatniks” that replace bumpers.
Main data of ATV:
Weight, kg…………………………………………430
Length, mm………………………………………2300
Width, mm
(along the outer sidewalls of tires)………1250
Height, mm:
on the steering wheel……………………………………….1250
on the saddle………………………………………..900
Ground clearance, mm…………………….300
Base, mm…………………………………………1430
Track, mm………………………………………1045
Maximum speed, km/h…………….65
S. PLETNEV, Ocher, Perm Territory
Today, four-wheeled units are gaining more and more popularity. But not everyone can afford to buy such a device. Then the question arises of how to make an ATV with your own hands. The creation process itself is very exciting, and finding components is not at all difficult. Therefore, if you have a desire, feel free to get to work.
Before starting work, a clear visual representation of the future design is necessary. Drawings of homemade ATVs vary in accordance with the tasks of the owner and the features of further use (carriage of goods, passing rough terrain, etc.). After studying the basic schemes and structures, draw your own project for creating a four-wheeled bike. An illustrative example will serve as the basis for the work and help explain to specialists what is required of them.
Of course, homemade work loses to established brands. However, if you choose the right materials and assemble compatible parts, then you get a completely powerful unit that can compete with competitors. Moreover, you will save a lot.
Work process
The first step is to make drawings of an ATV with your own hands. Put the maximum amount of effort into creating sketches. They will be needed to determine the necessary spare parts and calculate costs.
After creating a drawing, start buying accessories. Usually their main composition includes:
- frame - the main structure on which the entire unit will rest;
- pipes of various lengths and diameters to ensure the operation of the system;
- rolled metal, for the installation of shields, protection and other things;
- shock absorbers;
- engine and its components.
The easiest way to make an ATV is with special equipment. If this is not available, the best option would be to contact specialists with ready-made drawings. Not only will they do a good job, but they will be able to adjust inconsistencies details and mechanisms.
The frame should be made individually, according to the dimensions of the intended device. However, if you wish, you can take a simple frame from a motorcycle or a Russian-made car. The easiest way is to make an ATV from the Oka with your own hands. Because Oka has a small wheelbase, this allows you to simplify the work of fitting sizes.
Suspension and shock absorbers from cars and bikes are also great for future crafts. Considering that ATVs are designed to move on difficult terrain, shock absorbers from a Minsk or Dnepr moped will be an excellent option.
Brakes are a very important part of the design. They are not worth saving. Create an ATV with your own hands, 4x4 drive, better with a brake system from VAZ. Their strength is designed for cars, so a light four-wheeled bike will respond perfectly to such a system.
The steering wheel can be taken from any motorcycle. It is desirable that weights be installed on it to reduce vibration from the operation of the motor and movement on rocky terrain. This will reduce squeezing and hand fatigue when traveling.
Depending on which method of operation you choose, you need to choose wheels with a wear calculation. For trips on ordinary roads, simple wheels from the Oka are suitable. However, if you want to achieve good off-road flotation, it is worth investing in specialized wheels and tires from manufacturers.
And most importantly, the engine. The best option for the role of a motor will be engines from IZH Jupiter or Planet motorcycles. Not a new motor will do. Their simple device will help you easily replace worn and broken parts. At the same time, do not forget about cooling. It is necessary to choose the ideal option for different climatic conditions. Active cooling is perfect, which, unfortunately, was not used on motorcycles.
A self-made ATV from Oka, the drawings of which, depending on the operating conditions, must contain additional equipment, can be equipped with fog lights, a tool box (very useful in case of a breakdown) or a winch.
Construction assembly
After creating the drawings and selecting the material, you can begin to create the unit. First of all, a frame is created, on which all the details will subsequently be installed. It is advisable to use the most durable and corrosion-resistant materials when working. When riding off-road, the durable construction will save your engine from breakdown more than once.
Next comes the installation of the chassis. Here it is necessary to show the accuracy of assembly, since the coordinated work of all wheels and shock absorbers will ensure good dynamics and stability of the device.
Then proceed to install the engine and its components. In case of inconsistency of mechanisms, in no case use brute force. This will lead to subsequent problems in the work. After connecting the engine to the box, connect the fuel system. The fuel tank can be made with a margin, which will ensure the possibility of long trips.
Now you need to install electrical equipment. At this stage, wires are laid, headlights, signal lights and other consumer elements are installed.
After completing the main work, you can proceed to the cladding and body kit. It is up to you to use metal or plastic sheets when installing the body kit, but it is recommended choose according to the weight load on the engine. With sufficient power, a couple of kilograms will not be noticeable. The seats are best installed with a hydraulic cushion, but you will have to pay extra for this, because during a long drive on a bad road, vibration mitigation will provide additional comfort.
This is the easiest way to make a homemade Oka 4x4 ATV. The main thing in the work is the right balance of finances and opportunities. After all, if you want to create an equal four-wheeled bike without calculating the costs, you risk leaving your work unfinished.
How to make an ATV with your own hands is a difficult and responsible task, but feasible for a master who has perfectly mastered welding and turning. The efforts and time spent are paid off not only with great savings, but also with the result - an exclusive, author's model of a quadric, which no one else has.
The features of assembling a homemade vehicle are highly dependent on the chosen base - the engine and other elements that are used by the craftsman.
6 best options for the basis ("donor") for setting out with the goal of how to make an ATV.
- Motorcycle "Ural".
- Motorcycle "Izh".
- Motor scooter "Ant".
- Another scooter (scooter).
- Niva car.
- Oka car.
Most often, some structural elements are taken from a motorcycle, others from a car.
In addition to parts (accessories) for a quadric, its creator will need:
- assembly "shop" - in this capacity, a fairly spacious garage, equipped with good heating and lighting, will come in handy;
- a set of equipment and tools;
- blueprints.
You may also be interested in our specialist's article, which tells how to make.
Preparation for work, tools and equipment
First of all, you need to carefully consider when, where and for what purposes the future ATV will be used - hunting and fishing, motorcycle walks in nature, transportation of goods, and others. It is on this basis that it is necessary to make a choice of a “donor” vehicle, having decided how powerful the engine is needed, what kind of suspension is suitable, what kind of trunk, etc.
Drawings can be taken from the Internet ready-made, compiled from scratch on your own, or you can combine both options and be ready to redo it at your discretion.
List of required tools:
- welding machine;
- Bulgarian;
- drill;
- a set of keys;
- various small tools - calipers, hammers, knives, screwdrivers, pliers, etc.
For self-manufacturing of the frame, you will also need equipment for bending pipes. In the absence of it, you can rent it or give the necessary work "for outsourcing" to another craftsman. Only with remarkable dexterity can pipes be bent manually by heating the place of the bend with a gas cutter or a burner.
Quad components:
- engine;
- frame;
- rear and front suspension;
- steering;
- brake system;
- cooling system;
- muffler;
- electrical equipment - battery, headlights;
- hull, bodywork.
The muffler is quite possible to make yourself. Everything else is to buy used parts on the shadow market.
Parts selection
ATV frame
Depending on the "donor" and the design of the quadric, the frame will either have to be made by yourself, or you can reconstruct a finished, used one.
The most important thing is that along the frame the engine is securely bolted to the bottom, which can be located both in front and behind. Also firmly, in order to avoid play, the transmission and drive should be attached to the frame.
As a material, ordinary water and gas pipes are suitable, with a wall thickness of not more than 3 mm:
- for spars - 25 mm;
- for crossbars and struts - 20 mm.
Pipes are connected by spot welding, then integral welding is carried out. Ears for attaching shock absorbers and levers are welded to the frame immediately. Brackets - in the process of mounting units and assemblies.
Reconstruction of an existing frame
To reconstruct the finished frame, you should remove everything, leaving the frame, dismantle the back and build up the front. Then weld the elements for fastening a complete set of components and assemblies of the ATV. When reconstructing the motorcycle frame, the seatposts should be moved 40 - 45 cm.
The front and rear trunks are cut out of a metal sheet and welded to the frame. In conclusion, the finished frame is painted, varnishing is not necessary.
Engine
The engine is suitable from a car, motorcycle or scooter. Some "Lefty" even construct an ATV from a walk-behind tractor with their own hands, as newer models are equipped with four-stroke engines, the power of which for heavy devices reaches 15 "horses" - against 11 hp. "Ant".
The engine compares favorably with a scooter due to its low fuel consumption, besides, the scooter-based quadric is the lightest, which makes it easy to pull it out when it gets stuck in mud and sand. But a quadric needs a more powerful engine to transport goods and / or drive off-road.
The power of the engine "Izh-1", "Izh-2" and "Izh Jupiter" - 24 hp, the old "Ural" - 32 or 36 hp, the two-cylinder engine of the old "Oka" - 35 hp. , a three-cylinder machine of a later release - 53.
To travel in hot weather, an ATV needs a cooled engine. Cooling was not installed on old motorcycles, so you have to pick it up (it will fit, for example, from a VAZ 2108) and install it.
The suspension can be used both rear and front. The easiest way is to take the front from the motorcycle.
2 rear suspension options:
- The rear axle of the car, shortened to fit the dimensions of the quadric. The advantage is the presence of a differential. The disadvantage is that the design will come out heavier.
- Cardan-reducer design - with a gearbox mounted on the rear axle.
Please note: ATV requires high ground clearance independent suspension.
Suspension arms are bolted to the frame through rubber-metal hinges - silent blocks.
The tilt of the front suspension strut is mandatory, otherwise the ATV may roll over.
Shock absorbers are suitable from Izh, but if the budget allows you to purchase gas-oil pumps, the driver will be able to adjust the suspension according to road conditions.
Steering and chassis
The steering system of an ATV can be either based on an automobile - with a steering wheel, or with a motorcycle steering wheel. Some craftsmen combine both types: motorcycle steering wheel, lever and shaft - at the top, automobile tie rods - at the bottom. Together with the steering wheel of a motorcycle, it is advisable to immediately take a fuel tank.
A homemade steering shaft is made from a 20 mm pipe with walls up to 3 mm. A stroke limiter must be placed below.
In the manufacture of a quadric based on a car, it is better to replace a gear pair with a chain drive. This will greatly simplify and reduce the cost of maintenance.
The input shafts from the gearbox must be able to be directed directly to the rear and front axles.
Wheels are most often taken from small-sized VAZs (“Okas” or “Nivas”) and are shod with rubber corresponding to the operating conditions (weather, terrain, etc.). The braking system is selected depending on the wheels. Steering knuckles - also from Niva or Oka.
Four-wheel drive
If you prefer a four-wheel drive vehicle, you need car steering, differentials, and a manual transmission drive.
The existing frame will not work in this case; a new one should be welded to fit the engine size.
Suspensions, like the steering system, must be taken from the car. On the front, it is necessary to provide a place for installing the gearbox.
Installing an all-wheel drive model requires not only special craftsman skills, but also additional labor costs. An alternative option - to buy a ready-made all-wheel drive unit - costs money.
Frame
Making the body is far from the easiest stage in the story, called: "how to assemble an ATV with your own hands." Suitable materials are fiberglass and fiberglass, it is easier to make a body kit from the second.
First you need to draw, cut and build from pieces of durable foam, glued or fastened with mounting foam, the “blank” of the body. Then - apply several layers of fiberglass to it, smearing each with epoxy and inserting metal fasteners between them to attach the body to the frame. In conclusion, dry the body thoroughly, then prime, sand and paint.
