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Ford Focus 3 automatic has a 6-speed automatic transmission PowerShift with two clutches. This allows you to significantly improve dynamics, smoothness, compared to a conventional automatic transmission. In our article you will find a photo of the Ford Focus 3 automatic and its description. The main competitor and structurally similar machine Focus 3 PowerShift is a robotic DSG machine, which is installed on Volkswagens, Audi, Skoda and other models of the concern

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Focus Robot 3

Robotic automatic transmission is quite popular in Europe, so American Ford decided to develop its own version of the robot. He originally appeared on Mondeo, and then on Focus. The first PowerShift boxes on the Ford Focus III did not perform well, with owners complaining of problems at low speeds.

Soon, the manufacturer solved the problem by simply reprogramming the automatic transmission. The dry clutch allows you to transfer the maximum power of the engine torque to the wheels. This makes the Ford Focus 3 automatic not only dynamic, but also economical.

We all know that a conventional automatic transmission has a certain time delay when switching, sometimes the automatic transmission thinks for a very long time that it does not allow certain maneuvers on the road. The main task of the designers of Ford when creating this machine was as follows, to reduce the switching moment to a minimum, this technology was called Torque Hole Filling Technology (THF). Thus, the torque from the engine is transmitted to the wheels almost instantly.

The PowerShift automatic for Ford Focus 3 is an alloy of high-tech engineering embodied in metal, plus an electronic control unit that monitors engine operation, current speed and makes decisions instantly. Initially, a 6-speed automatic with THF technology was available only for a 2-liter engine, but later it became possible to aggregate the PowerShift automatic transmission with a 1.6-liter engine.

Ford Focus 3 automatic is a combination of mathematical modeling and computer hardware, along with other promising technologies for mechanical transmission of torque. The most interesting thing is that the development of such a transmission began several decades ago. However, at that time there were no powerful computer systems to control such an automatic transmission.

Watch an interesting video on this topic

From the history of the model

BY CONVEYOR: since 2011
BODY: sedan, five-door hatchback, station wagon
RUSSIAN ENGINE RANGE: gasoline, P4, 1.5 liters (150 HP); 1.6 liters (85, 105 and 125 HP); 2.0 L (150 HP); diesel, R4, 2.0 l (140 hp)
GEARBOXES: M5, A6, P6
DRIVE UNIT: front
RESTYLING: 2014 - renewal of head lighting equipment, lamps, radiator grill, hood, trunk lid, front and rear bumpers; redesigned center console and steering wheel; the design of some interior trim elements and rims has been updated; new options have appeared; the engine range was revised: the 2.0 petrol engine and the diesel were removed from the lineup, instead of them there was EcoBoost 1.5 (150 hp)
CRUSH TESTS: 2012, EuroNCAP; overall rating - five stars: protection of adult passengers - 92%; child protection - 82%; pedestrian protection - 72%; security assistance systems - 71%


The iconic model in the third generation was frankly spoiled by dubious changes - from a decrease in clearance and space in the cabin to the use of a robot with dry clutches, whose reputation was already tarnished. At the same time, Focus 3 is still quite liquid in the secondary market.

Apparently, the manufacturer has drawn conclusions. instead of a whimsical "dry" robot. The manufacturer has all the trump cards to return the Focus to the status of a people's car. In the purchase: an automobile plant in Vsevolozhsk and the production of successful Duratec 1.6 engines in Yelabuga.

  • To the address paintwork no special complaints. In this regard, the Focus 3 is middling among its competitors.
  • According to the corporate tradition the engine control unit located on the inside of the front left wheel arch liner. Even with minor accidents with a blow to this area, not only the module itself suffers, but also the connector on the expensive wiring harness. It is necessary to carefully monitor the condition of the fender liner: over time, it can deform - and water during washing will get on the connectors of the unit and the harness, causing them to corrode.
  • Sandwich from radiators of the engine and air conditioner located very close to the front of the machine and quickly becomes clogged with dirt. It is advisable to flush the heat exchangers at least once a year. In addition, the engine radiator is rather flimsy. During the warranty period, it is often changed due to a leak. For example, it is enough to lightly hit the bumper when reversing off the curb to crack the radiator.
  • Cars manufactured before 2013 have water leaks into the trunk. It penetrates through the seals of the interior ventilation valve, which is integrated into the side of the rear body panel. Dealers changed the assembly to a new one according to the technical bulletin and sealed it. Usually, though, sealing was enough.
  • On many modern Ford models rear bumper over time, it begins to chafe the edges on the corners of the trunk lid. Adjusting the bodywork does not help. The bumper is fixed with just a couple of clips and plays actively when driving at high speeds. The manufacturer limited himself to sticking a protective film to the edges of the lid in hazardous areas on vehicles manufactured after 2013.
  • Windshield with heating, it still cracks when the temperature drops. The manufacturer has not saved him from unnecessary "taunting".
  • When choosing a used car, pay attention to condition of doorways and hood... Rubber seals wipe them down to metal. Due to constant friction, rust does not appear, but this is still a good reason to bargain.

Appeared in the Focus motor range at. Cars in trim levels that include such a unit are very expensive, so there are few of them on the roads. Since this motor is also put on, the statistics are richer here.

The EcoBoost 1.5 turbo engine, built on the basis of its atmospheric cousin 1.6, is much quieter than its progenitor. Like all direct injection engines, it is prone to fairly quick clogging of the fuel injectors and the formation of deposits on the intake valve pockets. A similar thing happens on a naturally aspirated 2.0 engine, but with an EcoBoost unit this happens less often and in milder forms. The nozzles are successfully washed on an ultrasonic installation, but this is not cheap pleasure, since when removing and installing injectors, it is necessary to replace disposable gaskets and O-rings.

The rest of the EcoBoost 1.5 isn't a hassle. To date, no significant problems with him have been recorded even on the Kugah. But on an all-wheel drive crossover, the motor is loaded more significantly than on the Focus.

put only on "pre-reform" cars. This motor differs from its predecessor, which worked on. The most important innovation is direct injection with all its advantages and disadvantages. In general, the engine did not show any serious problems in terms of mechanics. He does not suffer from oil consumption and timing chain lengthening.

The main sore of the 2.0 engine is the rapid clogging and coking of the intake valve plates. It would seem that an ordinary malfunction of engines with direct injection. However, the Focuses often came to dealers with an error signaling that the air-fuel mixture was too lean due to clogged injectors, after only 30,000 km. Fortunately, injectors are successfully saved by flushing on an ultrasonic installation. Unfortunately, there is nothing to remove deposits on the valves. All methods of cleaning them without opening the motor are expensive and not particularly effective.

Another characteristic feature of this motor is increased vibration. Dealers experimented with various calibrations of the software, but they did not overcome the flaw, and the manufacturer does not recognize it as a defect at all. Moreover, the new motor runs smoothly, vibrations occur with mileage. Perhaps the cause is deposits on the intake valves.

Increased vibration will reduce the life of the right engine mount. Usually, its rubber filler breaks down after 50,000 kilometers. It is important to monitor the condition of the lower support, which, when worn, causes even more vibration. By the way, servicemen often kill the right support when they remove the gearbox and tilt the engine strongly. This also applies to the 1.6 engine.

Periodically, on the 2.0 engine, dealers changed the injection pump due to wear. There is also pump leakage. Gasoline seeps through the valve cover into the oil pan, causing the oil to dilute. In addition, fuel leakage leads to errors caused by improper air / fuel ratio.

Sometimes the noise of the nearby absorber purge valve is taken for the knock of the high pressure fuel pump. It emits an unpleasant clattering sound, although it works properly. The valve is replaced with a new one and the noise disappears.

A 2.0 engine, like a 1.6-liter unit, often has a valve cover leaking. However, for a more powerful motor, the consequences can be more serious. Oil enters the nearby tee of the cooling system and actively corrodes its gaskets - until antifreeze leaks.

He is perfectly familiar from the previous Focus and has a good reputation. Motors of different boost levels (85, 105 and 125 hp) are almost identical. In addition to the corresponding software versions, they have a different set of attachments. The mechanical part of the motor as a whole is not satisfactory, but it was marked by some annoying shortcomings.

After about 30,000 km of run, the engine starts to run much louder, that is, frankly rattles, especially during a cold start in winter. The source of the noise is the piston group. However, this does not cause increased wear on the elements and does not constitute a defect.

With a planned replacement of the timing belt (every 120,000 km), it is important to carefully inspect the cooling system pump. Often by this time it starts to leak. If you miss the moment, the antifreeze will corrode the hinged belt.

On pre-styling cars, the phase shifter control valve on the exhaust camshaft often leaks. It is located on top of the valve cover, and a jet of oil hits the engine shield. The main thing is to notice it in time. Pressurized oil flows out through the dead valve very quickly, and the engine can "grab" oil starvation.

On the "pre-reform" Focuses, the 1.6 engine leaks a valve cover gasket. She usually starts to snot after 100,000 kilometers.

Another feature of the 1.6 engine is not the most outstanding generator resource and. The voltage regulator relay fails at the generator. An indication of the lack of charging appears on the dashboard, although a voltmeter connected to the battery terminals does not record this. The reason lies in the internal malfunction of the relay, which is connected to the "brains" of the motor on a separate bus. Dealers change the complete generator, and specialized firms successfully restore the assembly. The starter relay quickly wears out. Unofficials will change it for a reasonable price.

Duratec 1.6 on "pre-reform" cars was marked by frequent leakage of the rear crankshaft oil seal. The two-liter unit also suffers from this, although less often. The manufacturer has issued a service bulletin for this problem. When installing the oil seal, the oil pan must be removed, otherwise the new seal will soon begin to leak along its lower edge. Fatigue of the factory oil seal occurs approximately after the second maintenance. It is given by traces at the junction of the engine and gearbox. Although it happens that the oil seal of the input shaft of the "dry" PowerShift robot or both cuffs at once flows like this. And because of this, oil mist gets on the clutch discs and their forks, significantly reducing the resource of the nodes.

Since April 2016, domestically produced 1.6 motors have been installed (they are produced by the plant in Yelabuga). To date, no problems have been noticed behind "our" engines that distinguish them from foreign units.

Developed by the PSA concern. It was available only for "pre-reform" Focuses. For the entire time of the presence of this modification on the market, few cars have been sold, so we will focus on more extensive statistics on the behavior of this motor on.

The engine is considered to be quite successful against the background of competitors. Serious mechanical failures are uncharacteristic for him. In case of forced repairs, you can use French spare parts, they are often cheaper, it is easier to find them. Fuel equipment (high-pressure fuel pumps and injectors) is sensitive to the quality of the fuel, but still stably withstands a mileage of 150,000 km.

If you often drive into questionable gas stations, the injectors may require flushing after 50,000 km. The first manifestation of their clogging on the Focuses is an unstable start of a cold engine. Before it warms up, it works extremely unevenly and may even stall several times. The manufacturer has issued a technical bulletin on this matter. He prescribed several cans of fuel additive added to the tank. In the experience of dealers, the effectiveness of this method is 50/50. Alas, dismantling the nozzles from a diesel engine and flushing them at the stand is expensive and conceals a number of pitfalls.

Dealers often come to Focuses with a melted fuel filter cap equipped with a heater. A similar situation is familiar from French models armed with this engine. The kit includes a new cover and connector (it suffers too). Melting is detected visually and has nothing to do with any specific mileage or age of the car. Some customers required the repair kit twice during the warranty period.

Dealers also encountered cases of oxidation of the connector and the position sensor of the variable turbine performance mechanism, accompanied by the appearance of a corresponding error. This distinguished the Focuses and Kugi with a variety of runs, and regardless of age. Dealers are not involved, so they change an expensive assembly.

Only paired with the EcoBoost 1.5 motor. This is a joint development of Ford and GM. At the heart of the 6F35 is the infamous 6T30 / 6T40 box, which was installed mainly on the Astra of the previous generation. However, Ford released its development to the market later than colleagues and initially etched the unit. The output was a successful box, devoid of significant drawbacks of the GM unit, including the small resource of the valve body and its valves, as well as the destruction of the brake drum retaining rings, which entails the complete death of the machine.

The 6F35 assault rifle has proven itself well on Kugah and Mondeo. The owners turned to dealers because of the rapid contamination of the oil due to the specific operation of the torque converter lock-up mechanism. Due to the wear products of the friction linings, the liquid turns noticeably black already by the second MOT. To extend the service life of the gearbox, it is important to at least partially change the oil every 45,000 km. At the Focuses, a similar effect and breakdowns have not yet been noticed, but few cars with this box have been sold either.

It is paired with 1.6 and 2.0 gasoline engines. As with machines from other manufacturers, this type of box causes a lot. Most of the complaints are related to low clutch resource, as well as twitching and jerking when shifting. The PowerShift dry robot's reputation is even worse than its DSG counterpart.

The manufacturer is working to improve the reliability and resource of the unit, but things are going slowly. The situation with jerking and jerking has practically not changed, but the clutch service life has been significantly increased. If on the "pre-reform" Focuses (especially before 2013 release) replacing the unit almost every 30,000 km was common, then after restyling the number of such calls during the warranty period has significantly decreased.

In a "dry" Ford robot, the clutch forks and the input shaft oil seal are quickly worn out. Moreover, the leak of the cuff accelerates the death of the forks. More dirt gets under their anthers, and they begin to wedge, killing the clutch discs even faster. The LUK kit, which includes a clutch, forks and an oil seal, has appeared on the market. It is a set of original spare parts, the price is about 25,000 rubles.

The crunching sound when turning the steering wheel is caused by dirt and moisture entering the journal bearings of the front shock absorber struts. The upgraded elements with improved protection began to be put on the conveyor from the beginning of 2014. Front and rear shock absorbers are rarely changed, they usually last at least 100,000 km.

Neutralizers are extremely sensitive to fuel quality. This applies to all modifications of the Focus in the "pre-reform" performance. Substandard fuel provokes the appearance of an error signaling the low efficiency of the converter. Upon visual inspection, damage to its cells is not detected; usually, their local melting occurs in hidden cavities.

Oxygen sensors are also demanding on the quality of gasoline. Blatant counterfeiting causes the appearance of a white coating on the measuring part, as well as on the spark plugs and neutralizer honeycomb. This is typical mainly for pre-styling Focus, on updated ones this is rare. However, even on fresh cars, oxygen sensors may need to be replaced. Due to low-quality gasoline at any run, an error may appear, indicating a slow reaction of "lambda". There is no notorious white bloom on them, but they can no longer be returned to a full life.

In addition, on the "pre-reform" Focuses with 1.6 motors, the wiring of the rear oxygen sensor touches the thermal shield of the converter and burns. Due to the short circuit of the wires in the harness, one of the fuses is blown out, which is also responsible for the power supply circuit of the radiator cooling fan.

On pre-styling Focuses, an insidious leak of the windshield washer motor sometimes occurs. Dealers have seen a lot of cars with this kind of trouble. Through the wires of the harness, the liquid reaches the body electrical unit located in the passenger compartment. In the best case, corrosion occurs on the connectors on the side of the module and wiring, and in the worst case, the liquid enters the unit and takes it out of standing. As a result, the car electrician begins to live his own life. In 2013, the manufacturer released upgraded washer motors - with an additional seal on the side of its connector - and a corresponding technical bulletin dedicated to replacing damaged elements. Wire harness and repair connectors are also available as separate parts.


SELLER'S WORD

Ford vehicles have always had good aftermarket liquidity, and even the disastrous Focus 3 was no exception. Surprisingly, all of its modifications are selling pretty well. The outsider in this pool is cars with an 85 hp engine, in poor configuration. Such people also find their customers, it just takes time.

Focuses in the Titanium configuration are excellent, and even with a robotic box. It raises a lot of complaints, but people are not particularly scared, although many are wary of robots.

There are very few tricks with a motor on the market, statistics on them are scarce. But if you focus on older models, for example Mondeo, interest in such a modification is high. Versions with an EcoBoost 1.5 engine have already appeared on the secondary housing, they are disassembled very quickly: the presence of a classic machine is captivating.

The level of prices for cars of the second and third generations is another proof of the failure of the "third" Focus. For example, the Focus 2 produced in 2008-2009 is in good condition, with a 2.0 petrol engine and automatic transmission, it stands as its follower born in 2012 with a similar engine.

I advise dealers or entrust this business to proven pickers. After all, the high liquidity of the car arouses increased interest among criminal structures.

TOTAL

The Ford Focus 3 is a prime example of a used car, whose health and behavior are directly dependent on its modification and year of manufacture. If you still cherish the dream of buying such a used Focus, it makes sense to consider exclusively updated cars, which have eliminated children's sores and increased the reliability of individual units. And it is better to bypass the tricks with a "dry" robot.


With the advent of an automatic gearbox, driving a car has become much easier - in fact, for this it was designed. However, if we compare it with the traditional mechanical one, one cannot fail to note a number of its disadvantages:

The main disadvantage of the machine is that at the moment of transition from one gear to another, a power failure occurs. There is such a failure in the manual transmission, but when driving a car with a manual transmission, the driver, focusing on the road situation, chooses the moment of transition from one gear to another, the automatic machine immediately decides everything, and this moment may not be the most suitable. Especially when it comes to an extreme situation on the road.

Powershift benefits

The creators of the Powershift robotic box have managed to solve this problem. Its design is as simple as it is original: it is, in fact, two synchronously operating mechanisms: the first is responsible for turning on / off even gears, the second turns on and off odd gears. Although they work in concert, they do not depend on each other. Thus, the drop in power at the moment of transition from one gear to another almost completely disappears, which has a beneficial effect on both the vehicle's handling and its dynamic characteristics. But that's not all: the Powershift gearbox allows you to reduce fuel consumption by almost 10% (of course, in comparison with automatic machines of other designs).

Disadvantages of "robot": repair Powershift Ford Focus 3

But this box also has two serious drawbacks:

  • Firstly, due to the fact that, in fact, it contains two independent gearboxes, the number of possible Powershift malfunctions has also doubled;
  • Secondly, the cost of the box also increased significantly, as did the cost of its diagnostics and repair. In addition, not every specialist will undertake the repair of the Ford Focus 3 robot - for this you need to have experience working with a gearbox of this particular design. And since this box was developed in the bowels of the Ford design bureau, it is installed on cars of this brand and on some of Volvo cars. At least for now.

Margin notes! Despite the complexity of the design, the "robot" Powershift has a relatively small size, so it can be found on machines of different classes, ranging from powerful Mondeos to compact focuses.

Considering the original design of the automatic transmission of this model, it is not surprising that its breakdowns also make themselves felt somewhat differently than the malfunctions of traditional automatic transmissions. So, for example, a Focus with a Powershift box may have problems switching only to even or, conversely, to odd gears, which indicates a malfunction of one of the two boxes. While with a standard automatic transmission, the malfunction would appear when all gears are working.

The most problematic point, or, as experts say, the "weak link" of Powershift are its coupling and shafts, it is not surprising - after all, they are the ones who have to work under conditions of constant increased loads. It should also be noted that Powershift is demanding on the quality of the oil. Firstly, not all engine oils are suitable for it, and secondly, it should be changed more often than in other boxes (this, by the way, is reflected in the Ford Focus user manual). If these requirements are not met, the moving elements of the box wear out quickly, which leads first to single, and soon permanent failures in its operation.

Another weak point of Powershift is its electronic component. However, breakdowns in control electronics are characteristic of almost all machines, because electronics are very sensitive to high temperatures, and the gearbox heats up during operation, and quite significantly. Therefore, the owners of the tricks should be prepared for the fact that the repair of Powershift Ford Focus 3, whatever breakdown occurs with it, will cost them a little more than repairing an automatic transmission of any other type.

Repair Ford Focus 3: Powershift and other automatic transmission malfunctions

The most common Powershift automatic transmission breakdowns:


Causes of malfunctions entailing the repair of automatic transmission Ford Focus 3

By and large, the manifestation of a particular malfunction of the Ford Focus automatic transmission can be explained by one of three possible reasons:


That is why it is so important to timely carry out all the routine maintenance procedures for the Ford Focus transmission and operate the car according to the manufacturer's recommendations: do not overload and, most importantly, warm up the box before driving, especially in winter.

Robotic dual-clutch transmissions are not a manufacturer conspiracy. This is an attempt to combine all the advantages of a classic automatic machine and mechanics in one unit. From the first, the preselective "robots" got everyday comfort, from the second - the overall efficiency and relative cheapness of manufacturing. As a bonus, the owner gets a high speed of step change, and most importantly - the continuity of the thrust flow. Whoever has tried it understands, and whoever has not had a headache with a "robot" will never give it up!

The "Ford" Powershift transmission is perhaps the second largest "robot" in the automotive industry after the notorious DSG, and Russians are well acquainted with this unit. The preselective gearbox is installed on almost all modern Ford models, but today we will talk about the most problematic version of the 6DCT250 - with "dry" clutches. Today it can only be found in conjunction with a 1.6-liter aspirated engine with 105/125 hp, and earlier such a box was combined with a 2-liter engine.

After restyling, the role of the flagship engine was taken by a 1.5 liter EcoBoost turbo engine with 150 hp, which is equipped with a conventional automatic machine.

Here is how the manufacturer describes the work of the Powershift robotic gearbox on Focus:

This modern 6-speed automatic transmission combines the convenience of an automatic transmission with the efficiency of a manual one. PowerShift preselects the next gear to avoid loss of power when shifting. With this automatic gearbox, you can change gears quickly and smoothly, reducing fuel consumption and CO2 emissions.

From Ford Marketing Materials.

Everything sounds beautiful in press releases, but in reality? But in fact, the owners of the III generation Ford Focus have earned so much trouble on their neck that they just need to become related with the owners of fragile copies of DSG! Thousands of angry posts on the club forums about breakdowns, hundreds of appeals to the Russian representative office of Ford - the scale of the problems with Powershift is amazing. This "robot" has several sores at once, but the symptoms are the same - jerks and vibrations when switching and starting off, as well as the transition of the box to emergency mode.

The most common diagnosis is an excessive leakage of the input shaft oil seals, as a result of which gear oil enters the clutches, which leads to their slippage. Trouble can happen regardless of the mileage - at least 5,000, even 50,000 km. Often the clutch forks jam - there are naturally two of them at Powershift. The problem is solved by replacing the clutch, forks and oil seals (new model). A lot of trouble is also caused by the TCM module with executive electric motors, which is responsible for shifting gears and squeezing the clutches. There is also no other control for a faulty manual transmission control unit, except for a replacement with an improved unit.

The saddest thing is that these defects could fall on the head of the "trick" not only individually and in different combinations, but also in one magnificent bouquet! AvtoVesti simply could not pass by without understanding the real cost of repairing the "robot" Powershift. We took the most difficult case (and this, believe me, is not uncommon), when in one order or another it is necessary to eliminate all the above malfunctions, and turned to the official Ford dealers in Moscow.

Here's what happened in the end: a set of two new original clutches costs 86,760 rubles, for large and small forks (actuators) for engaging the clutches, you will have to pay 67,780 rubles, and the TCM control module costs 48,920 rubles. Let's add 1,300 rubles here for new input shaft oil seals and another 17,850 rubles for work on replacing problem parts. All together - 216 610 rubles! An absolutely shocking figure for owners of relatively budget Ford Focus ...

Spare parts

Installation work

The situation is, of course, frightening, but not always fatal. First, Ford Sollers is well aware of Powershift's weaknesses and has already undertaken work to upgrade problematic parts. If the "robot" breaks down, official dealers promptly carry out repairs and change the necessary spare parts within the framework of the warranty. Secondly, the manufacturer has an extended warranty program, when, for a certain amount, Ford's warranty obligations are extended for a certain period (we recommend using this service for owners of those Focus copies for which the box has not yet been repaired).

And if, when choosing a Ford Focus III on the secondary, you should still be more vigilant, then new cars after restyling with the Powershift "robot" seem to be more or less easy to buy. At the very least, the manufacturer swears that the number of complaints about the box for such machines is practically reduced to zero.

Ford Focus 3. Insufficient oil pressure (the indicator of insufficient oil pressure is on)

List of possible malfunctions Diagnostics Elimination methods
Low engine oil Oil level indicator Add oil
Defective oil filter Replace the filter with a known good filter Replace defective oil filter
Loose tightening of the accessory drive pulley mounting bolt Check bolt tightness Tighten the bolt to the specified torque
Clogged mesh of the oil receiver Inspection Clear the mesh
Misalignment, clogged oil pump pressure relief valve or loose valve spring Inspection when disassembling the oil pump Clean or replace defective pressure reducing valve. Replace pump
Worn oil pump gears Replace oil pump
Excessive clearance between bearing shells and crankshaft journals Determined by measuring parts after disassembling the oil pump (at the service station) Replace worn out earbuds. Replace or repair the crankshaft if necessary
Defective oil pressure sensor We unscrew the insufficient oil pressure sensor from the hole in the cylinder head and install a known good sensor instead. If at the same time the indicator goes out while the engine is running, the inverted sensor is faulty Replace the faulty oil pressure sensor

Reasons for a drop in oil pressure

There is a light on the dashboard that signals an emergency oil pressure in the engine. When it lights up it is a clear sign of a malfunction. We will tell you what to do if the oil pressure lamp comes on and how to fix the problem.

The oil indicator light can come on for two different reasons: either low oil pressure or low oil level. But what exactly the oil light on the dashboard means, only the instruction manual will help to find out. It will help us that, as a rule, budget cars do not have a low oil level indicator, but only low oil pressure.

Insufficient oil pressure

If the oil can light comes on, this means that there is insufficient oil pressure in the engine. As a rule, it lights up for only a few seconds and does not pose a great threat to the motor. For example, it can light up when the vehicle rolls heavily in a corner or when cold starts in winter.

If the low oil pressure light comes on due to a low oil level, then this level is usually already critically low. The first thing to do when the oil pressure light comes on is to check for the presence of engine oil. If the oil level is below normal, then this is the reason for the lighting of this lamp. This problem can be solved simply - you need to add oil to the desired level. If the light goes out, we rejoice, and do not forget to top up the oil in time, otherwise it can turn into serious problems.

If the oil pressure light is on, but everything is in order with the oil level on the dipstick, then another reason the indicator could light up is a failed oil pump. It does not do its job of circulating enough oil in the engine's lubrication system.

In any case, if the oil pressure or low oil level light comes on, the machine must be stopped immediately by pulling over to the side or to a safer place and turned off. Why stop right away? Because if the oil in the engine has dried up significantly, then the latter can stop and break down with the prospect of very expensive repairs. Remember that oil is very important to keep your engine running. Without oil, the engine will fail very quickly - sometimes in a matter of minutes.

Also, this situation occurs when the oil in the engine is changed to a new one. After initial start-up, the oil pressure light may come on. If the oil is of good quality, it should go out after 10-20 seconds. If it does not go out, the reason is in a defective or inoperative oil filter. It needs to be replaced with a new high-quality one.

Faulty oil pressure sensor

The oil pressure at idle speed (at about 800 - 900 rpm) should not be less than 0.5 kgf / cm2. Sensors for measuring emergency oil pressure are available with different response ranges: from 0.4 to 0.8 kgf / cm2. If a sensor with a response value of 0.7 kgf / cm2 is installed on the car, then even at 0.6 kgf / cm2 it will turn on a control lamp, signaling, as it were, an emergency oil pressure in the engine.
To understand whether the oil pressure sensor is to blame for the light coming on or not, you need to increase the crankshaft speed to 1000 rpm at idle. If the light goes out, then the oil pressure in the engine is normal. If not, then you need to contact a specialist who will measure the oil pressure with a pressure gauge, connecting it instead of the sensor.
Cleaning helps from false alarms of the sensor. It is necessary to unscrew it and thoroughly clean all the oil channels, because the cause of false alarms of the sensor may be in blockages.

If the oil level is normal and the sensor is good

First of all, you need to check the oil dipstick and make sure that the oil level has not increased after the last check? Does the dipstick smell like gasoline? Perhaps gasoline or antifreeze gets into the engine. It is easy to check for the presence of gasoline in the oil; you need to lower the dipstick into the water and see if gasoline stains remain. If so, then you need to contact a car service, the engine may need to be repaired.
If there is a malfunction in the engine, as the oil pressure light comes on, it is easy to notice. Engine malfunctions are accompanied by a loss of power, an increase in fuel consumption, black or blue smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe.

If the oil level is normal, then you should not be afraid of a prolonged indication of low oil pressure, for example, during a cold start. In winter, at low temperatures, this is an absolutely normal effect.
After an overnight stay, oil drains from all highways and thickens. The pump takes a certain amount of time to fill the lines and build up the required pressure. Oil is supplied to the main and connecting rod journals earlier than to the pressure sensor, therefore, wear of engine parts is excluded. If the oil pressure lamp does not go out for about 3 seconds, it is not dangerous.

What can you do yourself

Measurement of engine oil pressure
The problem of low oil pressure is greatly complicated by the relationship between lubricant flow and low level and the overall pressure in the system. In this case, a number of faults can be eliminated independently.

If leaks are found, the problem is fairly easy to localize and solve. For example, oil leakage from under the oil filter is eliminated by tightening or replacing it. The problem with the oil pressure sensor, through which the lubricant flows, is solved in a similar way. The sensor is tightened or simply replaced with a new one.
As for oil seal leaks, in this case it will take time, tools and skills. In this case, you can replace the front or rear crankshaft oil seal with your own hands in your garage with a viewing hole.

Oil leakage from under the valve cover or in the sump area can be eliminated by tightening the fasteners, replacing the rubber gaskets, using special engine sealants. Abnormal geometry of the mating surfaces or damage to the valve cover / sump will indicate the need to replace such parts.

If coolant gets into the engine oil, then you can remove the cylinder head yourself and replace the head gasket, while observing all the recommendations regarding the removal and subsequent tightening of the cylinder head. An additional check of the mating surfaces will indicate whether you need to grind the block head. If cracks in the cylinder block or head are found, repair is also possible.
As for the oil pump, in case of wear, it is better to immediately replace this element with a new one. It is also not recommended to clean the oil receiver, that is, the part is completely changed.
In the event that the problem in the lubrication system is not so obvious, and you have to repair the car yourself, then at the very beginning you should measure the oil pressure in the engine.
To solve the problem, as well as taking into account the exact idea of ​​what the oil pressure in the engine is measured in and how it is done, additional equipment must be prepared in advance. Note that there is a ready-made device on the free market for measuring the oil pressure in the engine.

As an option, the universal oil pressure meter "Measure". Such a device is quite affordable and has everything you need in the kit. You can also make a similar device with your own hands. This requires a suitable oil resistant hose, pressure gauge and adapters.

For measurement, a ready-made or home-made device is connected instead of an oil pressure sensor, after which the pressure readings on the pressure gauge are evaluated. Please note that ordinary hoses cannot be used for self-production. The fact is that the oil quickly corrodes the rubber, after which the exfoliated parts can get into the oil system.

Outcomes

The pressure in the lubrication system can drop for many reasons:
- the quality of the oil or the loss of its properties;
- leaks of oil seals, gaskets, seals;
- the oil "presses" from the engine (pressure rises due to malfunctions of the crankcase ventilation system);
- malfunctions of the oil pump, other breakdowns;
- the power unit may be badly worn out, etc.

In some cases, drivers use an additive to increase engine oil pressure. For example, XADO revitalizant. According to manufacturers, this anti-smoke additive with revitalizant reduces oil consumption, allows the lubricant to maintain the required viscosity when heated to high temperatures, restores damaged crankshaft journals and liners, etc.

As practice shows, an effective solution to the problem of low pressure additives cannot be considered, but as a temporary measure for old worn out motors, this method may be suitable. I would also like to draw your attention to the fact that the blinking of the oil pressure light does not always indicate a problem with the internal combustion engine and its systems.
Rarely, but it happens that electrical problems arise. For this reason, the possibility of damage to electrical components, contacts, pressure sensor or the wiring itself should not be ruled out.

Finally, we add that using only the recommended oil helps to avoid many problems with the oil system and engine. It is also necessary to select a lubricant taking into account the individual characteristics of operation. The correct selection of the viscosity index for the season (summer or winter oil) deserves no less attention.

Engine oil and filters must be changed correctly and done strictly according to the regulations, since an increase in the service interval leads to severe contamination of the lubrication system. In this case, decay products and other deposits actively settle on the surfaces of parts and channel walls, clog filters and the oil receiver grid. The oil pump in such conditions may not provide the required pressure, oil starvation occurs and the wear of the motor increases significantly.

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