On all UAZ-3151 cars and on some UAZ-31512, UAZ-31514, UAZ-31519 and UAZ-31513 cars, a starting heater was installed, designed to facilitate engine start at ambient temperatures below minus 15 degrees by heating the coolant in and oil in the crankcase. The fuel for the starting heater was the gasoline used for the engine.
Starting heater UAZ-3151, general device.
The main part of the heater is a non-collapsible boiler, the cavities of which are permanently connected to the engine cooling system by means of inlet and outlet fittings and rubber hoses with clamps. The boiler liquid jackets are surrounded by two gas ducts, through which the gas formed during the combustion of the air-fuel mixture passes, heating the coolant.
In the lower part of the boiler there is a drain cock and a drain pipe connected to the boiler combustion chamber. There are two threaded holes in the combustion chamber of the boiler, into one of which the glow plug is screwed in, and into the other - the fuel pipe union. To fill in the coolant, the heater has a funnel with a plug connected to the liquid jacket of the boiler with a rubber hose.
Air enters the boiler combustion chamber from the fan through a hose. A nozzle with a hinged extension is connected to the boiler outlet. The hot gas is removed through it from the gas ducts and, with the help of a tray, is supplied to the engine oil crankcase.
Diagram of the shielded electrical equipment of the UAZ-3151 and UAZ-31513 vehicles with the inclusion of the electrical circuit of the starting heater.
Fuel is supplied to the boiler of the starting heater by gravity from the float chamber through a cock with an adjusting needle. In earlier versions of the heater, it was equipped with its own separate fuel tank. To supply air to the heater, a fan with a single-speed electric drive is installed on the radiator lining shield.
Fuel is pumped into the carburetor by an electric petrol pump installed on the left front of the engine. The electric petrol pump is connected in parallel to the main pump and is designed for short-term operation, therefore, after starting the engine, it must be turned off.
Since the electric fan of the pre-heater has one speed, it is initially recommended to turn it on intermittently with a period of 1-2 seconds when the boiler is fired up, not allowing it to develop at a high speed, so as not to overcool the glow plug and extinguish the resulting flame. When stable combustion appears, which is determined by noise, the fan must be turned on constantly.
Ignition of the air-fuel mixture is carried out by a glow plug, which remains on until a stable combustion process in the boiler is obtained. Further ignition of the mixture occurs from the heated parts of the combustion chamber.
Hot gases give off part of the heat of the heated liquid, providing its thermosyphon circulation in a circle: boiler - outlet pipeline - engine cooling system jacket - supply pipeline - boiler. The exhaust gases from the boiler heat up the oil in the crankcase.
The heater is controlled from the control panel. The glow plug on the dashboard serves to reduce the voltage in the glow plug circuit to 4 Volts and to visually check its activation.
The order of starting the starting heater UAZ-3151.
If water is used as the coolant.
In exceptional cases, water is allowed as a coolant for the UAZ-3151 engine. In conditions of low ambient temperatures, after the end of the daytime operation of the car, when it is parked for a long time, water is drained from the engine cooling system. In this case, before starting the starting heater, you must first prepare 10 liters of clean water in one container and separately another 3 liters in another.
Before starting work with the starting heater, it is necessary to unscrew the plug from its filler funnel and remove the radiator cap, then clean the hole in the drain tube to drain excess gasoline at the time of starting the heater.
After that, fold the extension of the outlet nozzle to the operating position and turn on the electric petrol pump with the switch on the control panel, pumping fuel into the carburetor. Turn on the fan motor for 10-20 seconds, during which the combustion chamber and heater gas ducts will be purged with air. Switch off the blower motor and switch on the glow plug.
Hold the switch lever for 15-20 seconds in the on position until the candle is glowing. The glow of the candle is determined by the glow of the control coil on the heater control panel. Open the fuel supply cock for 1-1.5 turns and after 3-5 seconds turn on the fan.
As soon as the first pop-flash is heard in the combustion chamber, turn on the fan constantly. In this case, an even hum of fuel combustion in the boiler should be heard. If the starting heater does not work, then stop the fuel supply, blow through the combustion chamber and boiler flue gas ducts and start again.
After the starting heater starts to work steadily, turn off the glow plug, adjust the fuel supply in such a way that there is no flame ejection, and immediately pour 3 liters of water through the filling funnel of the heater boiler. When the coolant in the engine heats up, crank the engine crankshaft several times with the starting handle, then start the engine as usual and fill the cooling system with water to normal.
After that, turn off the electric petrol pump, close the fuel supply valve to the boiler and after the fuel stops burning, turn off the fan motor. Failure to comply with the specified order for switching off the heater may result in a backfire and burning of the air supply hose.
Return the extension of the outlet nozzle to the stowed position and start moving the car after the fluid in the engine cooling system warms up to a temperature of 60-70 degrees according to the temperature on the instrument panel.
If a low freezing liquid is used as the coolant.
The starting order of the starting heater remains the same, with the exception that it will no longer be necessary to prepare water and fill the engine cooling system with liquid after starting and the start of stable operation of the heater.
Possible malfunctions of the UAZ-3151 starting heater.
If the starting heater does not start at all, then the glow plug or the control glow coil may be faulty; its glow is not visible in the slot. Or the battery voltage is insufficient. If during the start-up and operation of the starting heater the flame breaks out or the combustion dies out, then the opening of the fuel cock should be slightly increased.
Maintenance and care of the UAZ-3151 starting heater.
Care during daily operation consists in monitoring the tightness of pipelines, hoses, taps and their connections, inspecting and extending the fasteners of the starting heater, cleaning the glow plug from carbon deposits.
When preparing for the period of operation, it is necessary to clean the boiler of the starting heater from dirt, rinse its liquid jackets, clean the drain pipe, blow out the gas ducts with compressed air, clean the thread of the boiler filler funnel plug, the nozzle with an extension and the tray from the dirt. When switching to summer mode of operation, unscrew the filler cap of the heater boiler and lubricate it.
In search of means to ensure an easy start of the power plant in conditions of low temperatures, many car owners opt for antifreeze preheaters operating from a 220 V network. In such devices, powerful heating elements provide a fairly quick warm-up of the engine in winter.
At the same time, motorists often give preference to such domestic-made devices, including the Alliance pre-heater.
This decision is often due to the fact that domestic devices are cheaper than foreign ones, with a tolerable build quality and acceptable performance of their functions.
This manufacturer appeared on the market of equipment for heating power plants for a long time, and its products are in demand.
Types of heaters, features
The company offers a range of models to choose from with different designs and specifications. In most cases, the devices are intended for use on domestic cars and trucks - VAZ, GAZ, UAZ, GAZelle, etc. But at the same time, the installation of the Alliance heater is quite possible on foreign cars.
The catalog of pre-heaters of this company includes models:
"Alliance-2-PC"
The only tank-type model on the list, the design of which includes a pump that circulates coolant through the system during heater operation. Thanks to this, it provides a more uniform heating of the cylinder block. The equipment has a vertical design. Heating element power is 2 kW;
This model is of two types - 1.5 and 2.0 kW. Outwardly, it is identical to the model with a pump, but this version does not have a pump. Liquid circulation - gravity;
"Alliance -07"
Horizontal model of flow-through type with perpendicular arrangement of leads. Designed for installation on cars in the design of which a shortened return pipe of the cooling system and an angular supply of antifreeze to the thermostat housing are used (VAZ classic models and some front-wheel drive models). The power of the heating element is only 0.7 kW, so it is more suitable for maintaining the temperature, rather than heating the coolant;
Alliance-08 and 08 Universal
A flow-through model with a horizontal position of the leads. The first version is intended for installation on GAZ cars, the second is universal and can be used on foreign cars. Heater power - 0.8 kW;
Horizontal tank-type model with perpendicular outlets and a power of 3 kW. This heater is designed for use with truck engines;
The type of device affects how it works. If everything is clear with a tank heater equipped with a pump - when the pump is turned on, it circulates, then the gravity ones should be considered in more detail, since the scheme of its functioning is quite interesting.
Design and principle of operation
The design of the device "Alliance 1.5" consists of a body with two outlets - a supply side and a central outlet. This body also plays the role of a reservoir, therefore a heating element is placed inside it. The TEN's leads go through the bottom cover, where it is connected to the power cable. Additionally, a thermostat is used in the design, which turns on / off the device when a certain temperature is reached (the upper limit is 85 degrees C, and the lower limit is 50 degrees C).
To ensure the gravity flow of the coolant, a ball valve is installed in the underwater outlet.
Everything works like this: initially the valve is open, so the tank is filled with antifreeze from the system. As the coolant is heated by the heating element, it begins to expand, as a result of which the valve shuts off the flow. Further expansion leads to the fact that the already heated antifreeze is pushed out through the central (drain) outlet. A drop in pressure occurs inside the housing and the valve opens again, starting up another portion of coolant.
As for the flow-through models, they represent a regular tube in which a heating element is installed. In such devices, gravity circulation is carried out due to the temperature difference.
Connection diagrams
Each type of model has its own connection diagram, which must be followed, otherwise the circulation of antifreeze will not be ensured (applies to gravity models).
There can be several options for inserting a heater into the system. For example, on some cars the classic connection scheme is used, in which the liquid is supplied from the hole for the drain plug (a fitting is installed instead), and the output leads to the upper pipe coming from the radiator (the connection is made using a tee).
But more often a slightly different connection scheme is used. In it, the supply of antifreeze is done through the same drain plug, but the drain is made into the hole in the temperature sensor of the cylinder block. For such a connection, a tee fitting is included with the device. It is screwed in instead of the temperature sensor. The sensor itself is then screwed into the end of the fitting, and the branch pipe from the heater is put on the side outlet of the tee.
As for the flow models, their installation is much easier, since they simply cut into the required branch pipe of the cooling system.
In general, installation work should not cause difficulties, since nothing needs to be redone, it is enough just to make the insert correctly.
Finally, a little about the operation of the device. After connecting the heater to the cooling system, the device itself (tank type) must be fixed to the engine (for this, there is a bracket in the kit)
All pipes and wiring from the equipment should be laid so that they do not touch moving and very hot elements during the operation of the power plant.
Although all Alliance models are equipped with a thermostat, you should not rely only on it. Therefore, it is better to connect the device to the power supply through an adapter with a timer.
Video describing the heater "Alliance"
Related articles:
Even in the warm season, do not forget about the upcoming operation of the car in winter. In a harsh season, installing a 220V engine heater will be a reliable and easy way to prepare a car for a cold start.
Purpose and main differences
The starting engine heater is designed to maintain the required coolant temperature at a certain level. For example, a temperature of 40 ° C will provide the necessary conditions in the cylinder for a quick start of the engine, regardless of external conditions.
Structurally, the electric heater represents an affordable design in comparison with devices for independent engine start. A conventional pre-heater with an "electro" attachment is a heating element with supply wires located in the engine body.
Among the advantages of such a device stand out:
- Simple construction, which will allow you to carry out the installation on your own.
- Low cost, which is due to the design features.
- Possibility of later upgrade... If necessary, for cars, it will be possible to add a timer, a safety sensor and other optional devices.
Before proceeding with the installation of an engine heater from a stationary 220V network, get acquainted with the design features. The design is based on a tungsten heating coil located in the cylinder block. Depending on the power, a small amount of antifreeze can be heated up relatively quickly.
The main disadvantage is the high energy consumption. In just one night, selected models consume up to 10 kW of electricity. That is why progressive samples are equipped with sensors for periodically disconnecting the device from the network.
It should be noted that the type of motor does not affect the performance of the device. Whether a gasoline or diesel engine is installed on the UAZ, the device is installed in the same way. The difference here is not as great as the matching of tire and rim sizes for SUVs. With a certain skill and compliance with safety measures, it is not difficult to assemble an engine preheater with your own hands. To avoid unsuccessful experiments, consider the example of an original 220V car heater.
An example of a homemade heater
The principle of operation of the heater is based on the free circulation of the coolant in a closed circuit of the cooling system. The device for heating the liquid is built in parallel to the radiators. Accelerated fluid circulation will be provided by an additional pump, where the natural speed of fluid movement will not be sufficient.
In order to make an electric engine heater on your own, you will need:
- A piece of pipe. At one end, a hole is required for installing a heating element. At different ends of the pipe, holes are prepared for installing fittings.
- Electric heating element... The power is selected taking into account the size of the engine and the capacity of the lubrication system - from 400W to 2kW.
- Two fittings taking into account the diameters of the pipes of the cooling system.
- A piece of cable and a plug to connect the heating element to the 220V network.
The assembled structure requires an inclined installation. This will allow the antifreeze to move. Additionally, before installing the heater, ensure its thermal insulation.
Examples of industrial devices
Serial production of 220V engine heaters has been established both for domestic models and for installation on any car. For installation on a VAZ model, preheaters of the following models are suitable:
- The "Homeless" device... The model is designed for installation on a car of the Volzhsky Automobile Plant, taking into account the dimensions of the pipes. The cost does not exceed 1.3 thousand rubles.
- Product "Start mini"... It has a simple design with the creation of a natural thermosyphon circulation in the circuit. The cost is about 1,000 rubles. Has several modifications for installation on different motors.
- Models of Start type - M1 / M2, Siberia-M will also provide engine heating for domestic models. Price range from 1000 to 1800 rubles.
Among the new generation models, the Severs-M heaters are distinguished, which are equipped with an emergency switch and are adapted to some popular models of foreign manufacturers.
If you need to choose a 220V engine preheater, you should pay attention to the products of the Hotstart company from the USA. Here you will be able to find models of the most varying degrees of complexity:
- TPS line. It has a wide range of vertical models, depending on the diameter of the nozzle at the thermostat or are available with a built-in thermostat. They are distinguished by their compactness and maintainability.
- Line of devices type CB, SB, CL, WL, EE... Differs in horizontal layout, power from 1.5 to 5 kW, and is designed for installation with motors from 2.0 liters to 10.0 liters.
- HOTflow model. If you need to install an efficient heater with a pump, you should pay attention to the devices of this group. The power of the samples is in the range from 1 to 144 kW.
Recently, the installation of an engine preheater has become possible with models from Chinese manufacturers. Moreover, such products are often equipped with special sockets. Whoever installed budget models knows that the main inconvenience of 220V heaters is the need to open the hood with each connection. That is why the choice is often made in favor of an autonomous heater. Therefore, a remote socket is a significant advantage of some models.
Installation procedure for a 220 V heater
The easiest solution to install a heater is to contact a service station. The cost of work in this case will not exceed 1.5 thousand rubles. In practice, however, do-it-yourself installation is no more difficult than starting a two-stroke engine.
In general, the algorithm for installing engine heating for passenger cars looks like this:
- Draining antifreeze. The entire volume does not need to be removed - about 2 liters are drained and collected in a separate container.
- Detachable flexible pipes at the installation site.
- Heater is installed with connection to a closed circuit, observing design features.
- Final assembly. The stage provides for reliable fixation of branch pipes, power supply sockets.
- Topping up the coolant level.
At the final stage, it is necessary to check not only the operability of the device, but also the normal functioning of the cooling system as a whole. After that, be sure that the car is ready for winter use.
Task: install a homemade 220V engine preheater on the UAZ 31512
The progress of work on the installation of a homemade pre-heater 220V for UAZ 31512
Installed on the frame below the coolant drain valve from the block. As if on purpose, I had some kind of bracket on the frame. He pulled it to him with a clamp.
View from the side of the cooling radiator
Instead of this, the tap screwed in a K1 / 4 threaded fitting - this is a cold coolant intake.
At first I planned to bring the supply of heated coolant into the block, too, there is a plug for the K1 / 2 fitting above the oil filter ...
It should have turned out something like this
... but I could not unscrew it and had to connect it through a tee to the hose that goes from the head of the block to the radiator of the stove.
Filled the drained antifreeze + about a liter more. Started up, drove the system from air congestion.
In the morning, after a night frost, I turned on the heating. after 2-3 minutes, the hose from the heater is already warm. After half an hour, the block head warmed up. in 40 minutes already the block itself.
Now the engine starts half a turn, as in summer, and does not triple for the first 5 seconds, as before.
Heater operation diagram
Heater operation diagram. Styrena from the Internet
Added 02.02.2015
I am posting a small report on the work.
The temperature after spending the night is -4.7 degrees. It was possible not to heat, but the device was at hand and decided to take a measurement.
We turn on the heater and after 20 minutes the block head warmed up to +12.2 degrees
Rating 0.00
