Daewoo Matiz. Insufficient oil pressure (low oil pressure indicator is on)
| List of possible malfunctions | Diagnostics | Elimination methods |
|---|---|---|
| Low engine oil | Oil level indicator | Add oil |
| Defective oil filter | Replace the filter with a known good filter | Replace defective oil filter |
| Loose tightening of the accessory drive pulley mounting bolt | Check bolt tightness | Tighten the bolt to the specified torque |
| Clogged mesh of the oil receiver | Inspection | Clear the mesh |
| Misalignment, clogged oil pump pressure relief valve or loose valve spring | Inspection when disassembling the oil pump | Clean or replace defective pressure reducing valve. Replace pump |
| Worn oil pump gears | Replace oil pump | |
| Excessive clearance between bearing shells and crankshaft journals | Determined by measuring parts after disassembling the oil pump (at the service station) | Replace worn out earbuds. Replace or repair the crankshaft if necessary |
| Defective oil pressure sensor | We unscrew the insufficient oil pressure sensor from the hole in the cylinder head and install a known good sensor instead. If at the same time the indicator goes out while the engine is running, the inverted sensor is faulty | Replace the faulty oil pressure sensor |
Reasons for a drop in oil pressure
There is a light on the dashboard that signals an emergency oil pressure in the engine. When it lights up it is a clear sign of a malfunction. We will tell you what to do if the oil pressure lamp comes on and how to fix the problem.
The oil indicator light can come on for two different reasons: either low oil pressure or low oil level. But what exactly the oil light on the dashboard means, only the instruction manual will help to find out. It will help us that, as a rule, budget cars do not have a low oil level indicator, but only low oil pressure.
Insufficient oil pressure
If the oil can light comes on, this means that there is insufficient oil pressure in the engine. As a rule, it lights up for only a few seconds and does not pose a great threat to the motor. For example, it can light up when the vehicle rolls heavily in a corner or during a cold start in winter.
If the low oil pressure light comes on due to a low oil level, then this level is usually already critically low. The first thing to do when the oil pressure light comes on is to check for the presence of engine oil. If the oil level is below normal, then this is the reason for the lighting of this lamp. This problem can be solved simply - you need to add oil to the desired level. If the light goes out, we rejoice, and do not forget to top up the oil in time, otherwise it can turn into serious problems.
If the oil pressure light is on, but everything is in order with the oil level on the dipstick, then another reason the indicator could light up is a failed oil pump. It does not do its job of circulating enough oil in the engine's lubrication system.
In any case, if the oil pressure or low oil level light comes on, the machine must be stopped immediately by pulling over to the side or to a safer place and turned off. Why stop right away? Because if the oil in the engine has dried up significantly, then the latter can stop and break down with the prospect of very expensive repairs. Remember that oil is very important to keep your engine running. Without oil, the engine will fail very quickly - sometimes in a matter of minutes.
Also, this situation occurs when the oil in the engine is changed to a new one. After initial start-up, the oil pressure light may come on. If the oil is of good quality, it should go out after 10-20 seconds. If it does not go out, the reason is in a defective or inoperative oil filter. It needs to be replaced with a new high-quality one.
Faulty oil pressure sensor
Oil pressure at idle speed (at about 800 - 900 rpm) should not be less than 0.5 kgf / cm2. Sensors for measuring emergency oil pressure are available with different response ranges: from 0.4 to 0.8 kgf / cm2. If a sensor with a response value of 0.7 kgf / cm2 is installed on the car, then even at 0.6 kgf / cm2 it will turn on a warning lamp, signaling, as it were, an emergency oil pressure in the engine.
To understand whether the oil pressure sensor is to blame for the light bulb lighting up or not, you need to increase the crankshaft speed to 1000 rpm at idle. If the light goes out, then the oil pressure in the engine is normal. If not, then you need to contact a specialist who will measure the oil pressure with a pressure gauge, connecting it instead of the sensor.
Cleaning helps from false alarms of the sensor. It is necessary to unscrew it and thoroughly clean all the oil channels, because the cause of false alarms of the sensor may be in blockages.
If the oil level is normal and the sensor is good
First of all, you need to check the oil dipstick and make sure that the oil level has not increased after the last check? Does the dipstick smell like gasoline? Perhaps gasoline or antifreeze gets into the engine. It is easy to check for the presence of gasoline in the oil; you need to lower the dipstick into the water and see if gasoline stains remain. If so, then you need to contact a car service, the engine may need to be repaired.
If there is a malfunction in the engine, which was caused by the oil pressure light coming on, it is easy to notice. Engine malfunctions are accompanied by a loss of power, an increase in fuel consumption, black or blue smoke comes out of the exhaust pipe.
If the oil level is normal, then you should not be afraid of a long indication of low oil pressure, for example, during a cold start. In winter, at low temperatures, this is an absolutely normal effect.
After an overnight stay, oil drains from all highways and thickens. The pump takes a certain amount of time to fill the lines and build up the required pressure. Oil is supplied to the main and connecting rod journals earlier than to the pressure sensor, therefore, wear of engine parts is excluded. If the oil pressure lamp does not go out for about 3 seconds, it is not dangerous.
What can you do yourself
Measurement of engine oil pressure
The problem of low oil pressure is greatly complicated by the relationship between lubricant flow and low level and the overall pressure in the system. In this case, a number of faults can be eliminated independently.
If leaks are found, the problem is fairly easy to localize and solve. For example, oil leakage from under the oil filter is eliminated by tightening or replacing it. The problem with the oil pressure sensor, through which the lubricant flows, is solved in a similar way. The sensor is tightened or simply replaced with a new one.
As for oil seal leaks, in this case it will take time, tools and skills. In this case, you can replace the front or rear crankshaft oil seal with your own hands in your garage with an inspection pit.
Oil leakage from under the valve cover or in the sump area can be eliminated by tightening the fasteners, replacing the rubber gaskets, using special engine sealants. Abnormal geometry of the mating surfaces or damage to the valve cover / sump will indicate the need to replace such parts.
If coolant gets into the engine oil, then you can remove the cylinder head yourself and replace the head gasket, while observing all the recommendations regarding the removal and subsequent tightening of the cylinder head. An additional check of the mating surfaces will indicate whether you need to grind the block head. If cracks are found in the cylinder block or head, repair is also possible.
As for the oil pump, in case of wear, it is better to immediately replace this element with a new one. It is also not recommended to clean the oil receiver, that is, the part is completely changed.
In the event that the problem in the lubrication system is not so obvious, and you have to repair the car yourself, then at the very beginning you should measure the oil pressure in the engine.
To solve the problem, as well as taking into account the exact idea of what the oil pressure in the engine is measured in and how it is done, additional equipment must be prepared in advance. Note that there is a ready-made device on the free market for measuring the oil pressure in the engine.
As an option, the universal oil pressure meter "Measure". Such a device is quite affordable and has everything you need in the kit. You can also make a similar device yourself. This requires a suitable oil resistant hose, pressure gauge and adapters.
For measurement, a ready-made or home-made device is connected instead of an oil pressure sensor, after which the pressure readings on the pressure gauge are evaluated. Please note that ordinary hoses cannot be used for self-production. The fact is that the oil quickly corrodes the rubber, after which the detached parts can get into the oil system.
Outcomes
The pressure in the lubrication system can drop for many reasons:
- the quality of the oil or the loss of its properties;
- leaks of oil seals, gaskets, seals;
- the oil "presses" from the engine (pressure rises due to malfunctions of the crankcase ventilation system);
- malfunctions of the oil pump, other breakdowns;
- the power unit may be badly worn out, etc.
In some cases, drivers use an additive to increase engine oil pressure. For example, XADO revitalizant. According to manufacturers, such an anti-smoke additive with revitalizant reduces oil consumption, allows the lubricant to maintain the required viscosity when heated to high temperatures, restores damaged crankshaft journals and liners, etc.
As practice shows, an effective solution to the problem of low pressure of the additive cannot be considered, but as a temporary measure for old worn out motors, this method may be suitable. I would also like to draw your attention to the fact that the blinking of the oil pressure light does not always indicate a problem with the internal combustion engine and its systems.
Rarely, but it happens that electrical problems arise. For this reason, the possibility of damage to electrical elements, contacts, pressure sensor or the wiring itself should not be ruled out.
Finally, we add that using only the recommended oil helps to avoid many problems with the oil system and engine. It is also necessary to select a lubricant taking into account the individual characteristics of operation. The correct selection of the viscosity index for the season (summer or winter oil) deserves no less attention.
Engine oil and filters must be changed correctly and done strictly according to the regulations, since an increase in the service interval leads to severe contamination of the lubrication system. In this case, decay products and other deposits actively settle on the surfaces of parts and channel walls, clog filters, the oil receiver grid. The oil pump in such conditions may not provide the required pressure, oil starvation occurs and the wear of the motor increases significantly.
Symptoms: the generator is not working, the generator is not working efficiently enough.
Possible reason: damaged or torn alternator drive belt.
Instruments: wrench set, socket set, flat blade screwdriver, Phillips screwdriver.
The work below is carried out on a flyover or inspection ditch.
1. To check the tension of the alternator belt, press the belt between the alternator pulley and the crankshaft pulley, measuring the deflection of the alternator belt with a ruler.
Note. The deflection of the alternator belt should not exceed 10 millimeters with a pressing force of 10 kgf. If the deflection exceeds the maximum allowable limits, stretch it, following the instructions below.
2. Loosen the nut "A", using the "12" wrench, keeping the bolt of the left fastening of the generator to the bracket from turning with the second "12" wrench; loosen the bolt "B" of the right mounting of the generator.
3. Loosen the generator mounting bolt to the adjustment bar using a wrench.
4. Insert a mounting paddle between the generator and its bracket.
5. Squeeze the generator away from the BC by tightening the belt.
6. Tighten the generator mounting bolt to the adjustment bar.
7. Recheck the tension of the alternator belt.
Note. Prevent excessive tension on the alternator belt, as this can lead to accelerated failure of the alternator bearings.
If traces of wear or tears were found on the alternator belt, the belt should be replaced following the further instructions.
8. Remove the mudguard and remove it from the right front wheel arch.
9. Remove the power steering pump drive belt.
10. Loosen the generator bracket fasteners.
11. Move the generator to the side of the cylinder block using the mounting paddle.
12. Remove the alternator drive belt.
13. Install the belt in reverse order.
Pavel Kurakin Motorist
Sometimes there are situations that it is necessary to remove the generator from the Daewoo Matiz car in order to repair or replace it. However, we do not always have access to a viewing pit, flyover or lift. Therefore, now we will learn how to replace the generator without additional tools. Thus, we don't need to lift the car, instead working only in the engine compartment. All actions will be done from the side of the right wheel.
Getting started
Opening the hood, we find there. We will need to drain it, so that during further dismantling it does not pour it onto the floor. Pre-prepare a small container to collect the coolant. Enough soda bottles.
Remove the connector from the generator and the boot near the right wheel
So, we disconnect the pipe that leads from the expansion tank to the throttle valve. To do this, squeeze the clamp with pliers, pulling it back a little. This will allow us to remove the already named upper tube. We move the clamp closer to the engine shield for convenient drainage and drainage of fluid from the branch pipe into a bottle or canister that was previously prepared. Since there is practically no pressure in the pipe, there is no need to be afraid that it will jump out of the container. To more efficiently drain the liquid, we start the engine and wait until all the antifreeze is drained.
Now we can remove the expansion tank. We remove the terminals from the battery to avoid a possible short circuit. Now you can remove the second upper branch pipe, as well as raise the power steering tank. This will allow you to slightly move the expansion tank towards you and dismantle the lower branch pipe by sliding the clamping clamp with pliers. Now you can completely remove the tank, which we do. We remove all pipes to the side in order to gain free access to the generator.
On the way to the generator
Next, we disconnect the fuel line from the fuel rail. To do this, press two clamps on both sides of the fuel line. Raise the clamps up until they click and lower them back. So, we have disconnected the fuel line from the rail.
The generator has one electrical connector that goes to the battery charge indicator light. We will need to disconnect it. On the adjacent nasal outlet, a wire (plus) is fixed, which can be disconnected by unscrewing the nut with a 10 key. We need to unscrew the alternator tension bolt and two bolts securing the alternator bar.
We remove the upper bar and monitor the fuel rail, the tube of which can bend if not properly operated. On the generator itself there is a bolt and a bracket for the bar. To dismantle them, you need to use a 12 key. Next, remove the boot under the generator, which is held by two nuts for a 10 head and one bolt.
Now we got directly to the generator itself. There is a bolt on one side and a bolt and a nut on the other. To dismantle the generator, we will need to unscrew the bolt from the rear engine mount bracket. Don't worry, it won't skew the engine. Also, you will need to remove the alternator belt.
If necessary, you can replace it if it is damaged.
Now we need to unscrew the two support mounting bolts that go under the head 12. If they do not unscrew very well, you can use the WD-40. The bolt closer to the center of the engine has a ground wire. Do not forget to connect it back later, when you carry out the assembly.
Having previously removed the support mounting bolt (however, you can not completely unscrew it, but only slightly loosen it to a noticeable backlash), we take out the generator through the hole between the pallet and the right side of the spar. When detaching the rear engine mount, there should be enough space for dismantling the generator.
After we managed to remove the generator, you can start repairing or replacing it. The steps for replacing the generator are directly opposite to those already performed. Of course, this method of accessing the generator is not as convenient as when working with a lift, but it allows you to quickly repair it, being far from the car service.
The cost and time to work is due to the availability of additional equipment, which can also set the drive mechanism in motion. It is better to replace the alternator belt with Daewoo Matiz every 40 thousand km. In terms of time, the work takes from 30 minutes to 2 hours.
We also recommend changing the rollers, including the tensioner. On some models, a special tool may be needed to get the correct tension. In any case, before making a decision, contact a car service and carry out diagnostics. Many people are given advice by "Uncle Vasya from the garage", who determined on the phone what needs to be changed, but the problem turns out to be different.
Price:
Car services in St. Petersburg:
When is it time to change:
- the whistle that occurs when the electrical equipment of the car is loaded;
- cracks in the belt;
- loss of elasticity;
- signaling about a decrease in battery charge, when it is fully charged.
Warranty for work- 180 days.
Which to choose:
1. Contitech (Germany)
2. Dayco (Italy)
3. SKF (Sweden)
4. Gates (USA)
5. Flennor (European Union))
When buying spare parts from us, we will provide a discount for replacement.
Despite the fact that the Daewoo Matiz generator belt and other elements are reliable enough, failures do occur. The car owner should know how to carry out basic repairs on his own. All about this in our article.
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Typical generator malfunctions
The overwhelming majority of Daewoo cars have two main types of generating devices. This is the Matiz generator, Nexia CS130 and CS121. A similar model is in the Gentra's car. There are no fundamental differences, except for the size of the stator. They are even interchangeable.
Unification allows for major repairs according to the same scheme, regardless of which model is installed on the Daewoo Matiz. As practice shows, the stator and rotor are both reliable. In most cases, mechanical damage leads to disruption of their work.
The most common troubles include:
- destruction on the back cover;
- burnout of the diode bridge due to improper washing, contact with oils and technical fluids.
- burning of the working surface;
- generation of generator brushes.
These problems can lead to others. For example, bearing failure leads to strong shock loads on the rotor and stator. Also, because of this, there may be a short circuit of the "plus" of the brushes to ground - and, as a result, burnout of the relay-regulator.
Ways to eliminate breakdowns
Most of these problems are easy to fix. For Daewoo models, you can find on sale such parts as a relay-regulator, a diode bridge and bearings for both covers. At the same time, the repair of the front cover with the replacement of the bearing has its own characteristics and difficulties, and also requires special tools. It is better not to deal with them on their own and entrust the repair of the Daewoo Matiz generator to a professional.
As for the other problems mentioned above, the repair is carried out by disassembling the generator. To do this, unscrew the ties, detach the front cover by pressing on the latches. In order to repair, you will need tools such as keys, a flat screwdriver, a soldering iron, a hammer may come in handy (for setting the plates).
Alternator Belt Replacement Instructions
Another common problem is the alternator belt. Fortunately, replacing it is one of the easiest operations. It is not particularly difficult even for those who are not very well versed in how the Daewoo Matiz generator works.
Periodicity
Checking the condition of the alternator belt and its tension should be regular. As practice shows, this detail is one of those that fail most often. Therefore, experienced craftsmen recommend checking the condition of the strap once a year and, if necessary, replacing it.
Unlike timing belts, there is no clear data on how far the car travels before it needs it. It is necessary to check its tension. But in most cases, under severe operating conditions, replacement is required every 80 tons. Kilometers. In normal conditions, the Daewoo Nexia generator belt will withstand 120 t. Km or more.
Stages
The scheme of your actions to replace the alternator strap with Nexia should be as follows:
- first remove the air-conducting sleeve, which is assembled with the additional silencer of the intake air;
- then check the belt tension by pushing it with your finger between the pulleys;
- with a pressing force of 10 kgf, the belt deflection should be in the range from 10 to 15 mm;
- to adjust the tension, loosen or tighten the bolt fastening to the tension bar;
- if you have a car without air conditioning, then the belt is removed simply after loosening the tension by removing it from the pulleys:
- if the car has an air conditioner, you need to remove the drive belt of its compressor, for this, loosen the nut;
- to install a new belt, all parts are assembled in a ritual manner;
- at the same time, tighten the compressor drive belt so that at a pressure of 10 kgf it bends by 5-8 mm.
Video "Repair of the generator Daewoo Matiz"
