Correct oil change in the car. Self-change of engine oil. How to change engine oil

The key to the long-term operation of the car is its regular maintenance and replacement of consumables, including the replacement of oils. Many car owners have all the conditions for this, for example, their own garage with a viewing hole, others have the opportunity to use such conditions to service their car.

It will be useful for such motorists to know how to properly change the oil in the engine. This procedure is simple and does not require any special skills or special expensive tools. At the same time, owners of new cars should not forget about the warranty period provided by the dealer network of this car brand.

In this case, the procedure for changing the oil in the engine must be carried out at a service station with a mark in the vehicle's service book, otherwise there is a risk of voiding the warranty. This circumstance may serve as the only obstacle to self-service of your "iron horse". The engine oil change interval is determined by the following factors:

• vehicle operating instructions;
• type of engine oil (synthetic, semi-synthetic, mineral);
• terms of Use.

The information in the operating instructions supplied with each vehicle can give a general idea of ​​the frequency of replacement of all consumables, including oils. In addition to the instructions, you need to focus on the conditions in which the car is operated.

If the engine is constantly subjected to increased loads or most of the mileage occurs on dusty dirt roads, the period until the next oil change in the engine should be shortened. Oil types, in terms of their composition, also affect the length of the drain interval. For example, synthetic oil is a better product and lasts longer and more efficiently.

The procedure for changing the engine oil is quite simple and consists of several stages. We will try to highlight each stage in as much detail as possible so that even a novice motorist can figure out how to perform this operation himself.

Preparatory stage

Before you start changing the engine oil with your own hands, you need to prepare the following tools and materials:

• a pan for draining the oil of the required capacity, preferably wide enough and with low sides;
• drain plug wrench;
• a device for unscrewing the oil filter;
• light source (lantern, portable lamp);
• filling funnel;
• rubber gloves;
• protective glasses;
• rags.

The filter unscrewing device is not expensive and can be purchased at any car dealership. It will be useful if you decide to constantly service your car yourself. The light source is required to work under the vehicle. A head-mounted LED flashlight works best. It does not occupy the hands and provides sufficient lighting. Now let's move on to the car.

1. At the very beginning, using the vehicle operating instructions, you should find the location of the filler neck, oil filter and drain plug. Often, access to them can be limited (for example, by a decorative casing on the engine or metal protection of the oil pan), so it is better to remove interfering elements in advance if possible. An exception is the sump guard, which must be removed later, after driving onto the overpass.
2. To change the engine oil, a trestle or inspection pit is required. After installation on such, the car should be secured on the site using the hand brake or wheel chocks.
3. Partially or completely remove the protective grill of the oil pan (if any), then carefully inspect the surroundings of the drain neck. The fact is that when draining, a stream of oil can hit the suspension elements and splash in all directions. It depends on the design of the car, the location of the engine, and so on. This requires a wide enough waste oil pan and safety goggles in case splashes get on your face.

Draining the used oil

To properly change the oil in the engine, it must be warmed up. The oil liquefies, its fluidity increases, which will allow the oil sump and engine parts to be emptied well. Do not warm up the engine to operating temperature to avoid burns to your hands when changing the oil. It is better to navigate by the instrument showing the oil temperature, it should not show more than 40 ⁰С.

If there is no such device on the panel, it does not matter. Being careful, you need to gently touch the oil pan when warming up and stop the engine at the right time. Using a wrench, loosen the drain plug and unscrew it by 1-2 turns, making sure the presence or absence of a gasket.

Then we substitute the pan for draining the used oil and with our hands in rubber gloves, we begin to unscrew the cork. An important point: it is necessary to "feel" by the ease of rotation that the last threads are going on and, when completely unscrewing, immediately take your hand with the plug away from the oil stream. Then adjust the position of the sump so that all the oil from the engine gets into it.

It happens that the plug falls directly from the neck into the oil. Then you will have to fish it out from there, after all the oil has drained and cooled down. Some motorists, using the garage in their own home, perform the drain procedure in the evening, and continue in the morning so that all the oil from the engine will drain well overnight.

Replacing the oil filter

It is recommended to lubricate the new filter well

While the used oil is safely draining into the sump, the oil filter must be removed. To do this, we wipe it from dirt with a rag and first try to turn it off with our hands. If this succeeded, we unscrew it, having previously placed a rag from below, so as not to once again wipe off the oil drops from the engine parts and other elements in the engine compartment, which may get lubricant when removing the filter.

It is also necessary to wipe the filter mounting flange on the cylinder block with a rag. Carefully place the old filter with the opening facing up and prepare for disposal. It is not always possible to unscrew the oil filter by hand. Firstly, on some cars, access to it is difficult due to the design and location of the engine. Secondly, oil filters of small dimensions come across, which are not so easy to grasp well.

And thirdly, the rubber gasket "sticks" to the flange on the cylinder block and prevents the filter from moving. For all such cases, a special key is used, with which you can easily grab the body of the filtering device in hard-to-reach places and unscrew it. There is only one drawback: when unscrewing, damage to the filter housing and oil leakage is possible, which is completely removable. It should be noted a number of "popular" recommendations for unscrewing the oil filter.

1. For a secure grip, cut off a strip of medium-grain sandpaper and wrap it around the device body before unscrewing it.
2. Take an old alternator drive belt or a wide leather belt and make a loop on it. It is put on the filter housing and pulled by the end of the strap to move the device.
3. The "barbaric" method: a sharp metal pin of small diameter pierces the body through and through, grasp the ends on both sides with your hands and unscrew the filter. Here, care and accuracy are necessary, since oil will inevitably flow through the holes in the case. It is necessary to take measures so as not to pour it over the entire engine and not get dirty yourself, and carefully wipe the remaining oil spilled with a rag.
4. In some cases, it is necessary to carefully inspect the installation site of the filter. It happens that from below, from the inspection pit, access to it will be much freer and it will be easier to unscrew it.

We take a new filter and study the installation recommendations, which are written on the packaging or on the device itself. As a rule, it is recommended to lubricate the rubber gasket on the filter with fresh oil, then screw it in place and tighten by hand. Do not overdo it: when tightening, you should not use much force.

Filling in new oil

At this stage, we adhere to the following algorithm.

1. We move the pan with the old oil to the side, screw the drain plug into place and carefully tighten it with a wrench, applying medium effort. This completes the work under the car, you need to wipe off the parts that have gotten oil on with a rag, and put back the crankcase protection.
2. Remove the filler plug, put a funnel in it and fill in new oil. Before that, you need to pull out the oil level dipstick and wipe it with a rag. We continue the filling, focusing on the marks on the canister and the level dipstick. When the level reaches the bottom min mark, we stop and wait 15 minutes, allowing all the oil from the engine to drain into the crankcase. Following the vehicle operating instructions, re-check the level and add oil to the max mark or to the middle between these two marks.
3. We thoroughly wipe all places in the engine compartment, which has gotten oil. This is done so that dust and dirt do not accumulate on them later. We twist the filler cap.
4. We start the engine without increasing its speed, carefully looking at the red lamp of oil pressure in the system. After a few seconds, it should go out. We warm up the engine at idle speed for a couple of minutes and drive off the overpass or observation pit. That's all, changing the oil in the engine on our own is over.

Replacement with flushing

On the topic of flushing the engine with the help of various flushing oils or chemical topping-ups for five minutes, there are a number of controversial opinions that contradict each other. We will present a number of recommendations on how to properly change the oil with flushing, which will definitely not harm your power unit, but will be beneficial.

1. Although any engine oil contains additives designed to clean the engine from carbon deposits and deposits, flushing the engine once every 3-4 oil changes will only benefit it.
2. In order to guarantee high quality and correct flushing of the engine and not feel anxiety about the condition of your power unit, it is best to do this not with the help of different flushing oils or additives, but with the same oil that you use constantly.
3. The way to do this is to replace the filter, fill in your new oil and drive it for 2 days without heavy loads. This is necessary in order to exclude the intensive appearance of new carbon deposits when flushing the engine. On the third day, the oil in the engine should be changed again with the obligatory replacement of the filter, and the next interval between replacements should be halved. This flushing method will only benefit your engine.

Despite the apparent lightness, the process of replacing engine oil has its own characteristics. The instructions for changing the oil outlined above are designed to help understand everything in detail, especially for motorists with little experience.

Replacing the working fluid in the engine is a very popular service at the service station. The frequency of such maintenance is 1 year or 15,000 km of run. However, the interval is shortened in case of excessive loads, harsh operating conditions.

You can change the oil in the service or on your own. It is enough to study the instructions on how to change the oil in the engine correctly, prepare the necessary materials and tools.

The preparatory process begins with studying the operating instructions for the machine. Attention is required by the manufacturer's recommendations on the frequency of maintenance, the type of working composition (its viscosity, volume, specification).

Other materials:

• New filter element, preferably of high quality;
• Oil is taken with a small margin, taking into account the volume of the power plant;
• Capacity for working off;
• Newspaper, rag, rags to remove traces of oil;
• Funnel for pouring a new composition;
• Combined and wrench to remove the oil filter;
• Flashlight - will provide better visibility;
• Rubber gloves for protection.

Before starting work, you need to know where the drain is located to remove the mining. It is worthwhile to first inspect the oil pan to find a suitable key, and the location of the oil filter is also determined.

Important:

Before starting work, the motor needs to be warmed up a little. It is enough to make a small circle or leave the engine running for a few minutes. So, the used composition is easier to remove. The car must be driven into a viewing hole, overpass, it must stand level on a solid surface. The jack is used only in conjunction with additional supports.

If you have a question about how to change the engine oil, it is worth noting that the instructions are quite simple and in most cases the same for different vehicles.

Main steps:

1. When the car is in a pit, overpass, it is left on the handbrake for models with manual transmission and in parking mode for automatic transmission.
2. Wearing protective gloves, you can lower yourself under the car and dismantle covers and hatches that restrict access. Keys, a container, and a newspaper underneath are immediately prepared.
3. The waste reservoir is installed under the oil pan. Using a wrench, first loosen the plug fastening slightly. It is necessary to monitor the gasket, it often sticks to the pallet, falls into old oil.
4. Further, the plug is removed manually, but it is held, since there is considerable pressure of the lubricating fluid, which will begin to flow out quickly. Care is required here - the composition can be hot.
5. When the liquid is glass, experts assess its color, the presence of foreign particles, which makes it possible to determine the need to flush the unit. The composition is not completely removed, remaining in the most inaccessible areas, on working surfaces. But this is only 3% of the volume.
6. Then the plug is installed back, tightened tightly. The container is moved to the area where the filter is located.
7. The old element must be loosened using a key, and then removed by hand.
8. A new element is not installed immediately, preliminary lubrication of the gasket is required, which will ensure the absence of deformations, cracks, leaks. After fixing the structure, remove all oil smudges (water and soap are not used).
9. Further, the moment comes to fill in new oil through a special oil filler hole in the engine. Change the oil using a funnel so that the product does not splatter.
10. During pouring, there is no need to rush, constantly checking the level with a dipstick. Not enough is just as dangerous as overflowing.
11. After completing work, the engine compartment and all areas where work was carried out must be clean. Then the engine starts and runs for several minutes. Attention is drawn to the absence of leaks and other malfunctions. The turnover is not increased.
12. Having muffled the unit, check the level of the composition again, if necessary, topping it up to the desired mark.

The procedure is quite simple, with such instructions every motorist can change the lubricating fluid.

Sometimes the question arises - is it necessary to drain the oil when replacing it additionally, to flush the system? After removing the plug, all the oil drains, the remaining 3% is almost impossible to remove (except for overhaul, disassembly). Flushing is required when deposits are present, improper maintenance, or when fluid type is changed.

Important:

After completing the procedure, you need to pour the mining into another closable container, and put the filter in a bag. By contacting the service station, you can hand them over for free. It is also recommended to remember, write down the date and mileage so that you know exactly when the next service is required.

Each owner, taking care of his car, can change the lubricant in the engine himself. When using the detailed instructions that the article contains, all the necessary manipulations will take no more than an hour. However, the question may arise - how much oil is poured into the system.

The information you need is easy to find by reading the instructions for the car. If there is no manual, you can contact the official representatives of the brand, clarifying the question, or contact the service station specialists who are engaged in servicing a particular brand of car. It is worth immediately studying the required characteristics of the product, since pouring an unsuitable composition is dangerous with the appearance of failures, unwanted breakdowns.

Attention:

The operating manual usually indicates the total volume of oil contained in the motor. This means that this amount of product was used in the first fill at the factory when there was no lubricant in the system before. With subsequent manipulations, the required volume is reduced.

If the manual indicates that the system contains 4 liters of oil, this is the full volume. It is impossible to fill in the same amount of grease when replacing, as an overflow will result.

What happens when overflowing:

1. The required fluid level is exceeded, due to which the crankshaft, during rotation, will be lowered by counterweights into the lubricant.
2. Paying attention to the speed of rotation, impacts, the composition will begin to foam, a gas-oil emulsion is formed, which does not have the necessary protective, lubricating properties.
3. As a result, the performance of the engine decreases, the candles become contaminated with oil, which also enters the air filter, carburetor, and cylinders. When the situation worsens, the lubricating fluid is supplied from below, the oil scraper rings stop working normally. There is a possibility of hitting the idle speed regulator. The worst option is to squeeze out the crankshaft oil seals.

Oil shortage problems:

If the level falls, oil starvation of the motor occurs. At the same time, accelerated wear of the components is noted. There is a risk of piston seizure. If there is not enough working fluid, the oiler on the dashboard usually lights up, although sometimes this is a sign of a breakdown.

In order to prevent such problems, after the change, the level control is necessarily carried out. The optimal indicator is when the oil level is between the min and max values. Wanting to do everything right, you need to gradually bring the volume to the desired indicators, and if the norm is exceeded, remove excess lubricant.

When choosing the right product, it is important to take into account the recommendations of the car manufacturer. Each container is provided with a special marking that determines the base, viscosity, energy efficiency class, API category. To determine what kind of oil is poured into the engine, you need to study all the parameters.

Oil type:

• Mineral compositions- produced on the basis of petroleum products with the addition of additives to improve performance, the product has a higher viscosity, accelerated loss of properties, suitable for old engines;
• Synthetics- an improved type of lubricant obtained as a result of synthesis. Differs in greater cost, fluidity, ability to work under severe loads, suitable for new, powerful cars;
• Semisynthetics- possesses the properties of the first two oils, is used at medium loads, has an optimal cost and parameters.

Viscosity - the required indicator depends on the loads, operating conditions:

• Winter formulations- there is the letter W (winter) in the marking, a number from 0 to 25 is indicated in front of it, subtracting 35 from this value, it is easy to find out the minimum starting temperature;
• Summer views- denoted by numbers from 20 to 60, which indicates the dynamic viscosity of the product when the temperature of the power unit rises to 100 degrees.
• All-season versions include designations for winter and summer.

The API system assumes a choice depending on the type of engine and class, taking into account the year of manufacture:

• S - for gasoline units;
• C - for diesel versions;

The class is determined by the letters of the English alphabet, and the further it is from the beginning, the higher the level. For example, for 1989 models, the SG series is used, and for 2004 versions, the SM line is suitable.

Energy intensity - differs for different types of cars:

• For gasoline models, class A is used;
• Type B is used on diesel cars;
• For cargo versions, type G is required.

An independent search for a suitable oil is carried out taking into account the type of base, adjusted for climatic conditions, operating mode, not forgetting about the type of the motor itself. Paying attention to the year of release, it is not the date of production that is determined, but the period of creation.

If you change the oil yourself, you can not only save from 200-1000 rubles, but also have a good time. Yes, changing the engine oil is fun! On a weekend, to pose as a specialist, to feel like a real pro - it will assert itself - it is useful for a person's self-awareness 🙂

So what do you need to change your own engine oil in an internal combustion engine?

1. The place - it is better to change the engine oil where you do not bother anyone, and no one bothers you. It is desirable, of course, in dry weather so that they do not fall in the mud. A pit or garage with a lift is optional. Sometimes I changed the oil in my toyota with a low ground clearance - finding an ordinary pit on the side of the road, or in the field, or just a high bump that you can hit with a wheel. I specially noted this quiet place for myself, came there, ran over a hill with a wheel, or parked the car so that there was a hole between the front wheels. And calmly, slowly changing the oil. It is not necessary to look for a field, there are plenty of quiet places, behind the garage, behind the house, etc.

If you haven't found a suitable place with a special landscape, it doesn't matter! The main thing is to find a place to change the oil. Be sure to put the car on the handbrake! This is the most dangerous place in this procedure! You need to be sure that the car does not roll off the jack while you are under it! Therefore, if you are not sure, do not raise the car on a jack - better look for a hole or a bump! There is nothing difficult, the car will not fall if it is on the handbrake and the jack is installed on a flat hard platform - but you need to understand the responsibility! You can put wooden blocks or bricks under the wheels so that the car does not roll.

Take a jack, look under the car, find where your drain plug is located and where it looks, investigate and decide for yourself which front wheel you need to jack up! For example, my plug looks at the rear wheels and is located at the right wheel - so I can jack up the right wheel - to get in there, unscrew the plug, substitute the basin. etc

2. Container. Find some old, not high basin, we will drain the used oil there, or buy it at a hardware store - it will be convenient to throw this basin into the trunk and take it with us. You also need a 5 liter PET bottle - you will pour the used oil there. Hand over the used oil for recycling, they are accepted either by firms, or in garage cooperatives there is a place to drain the waste.

3. Tools. The head for your plug, for example, I have it at 17, and a standard "ratchet". The filter remover, I have it in the form of a motorcycle chain, hug the oil filter and tear off the oil filter - sold in the 300r tool store. Will work itself out.

Advice: Before the procedure for changing the engine oil, we need to start the car and take a ride - many neglect this procedure, and in vain! Let me explain why. Engine oil, when shaken well, tends to hold a suspension of particles for about one to two hours. See photo

Photo taken about 30-60 minutes after stopping the engine. The oil retains suspended particles.

Photo taken 3 hours after stopping the engine. A dark sediment of sludge particles settled at the bottom of the step.

What does it give us? When draining cold, settled oil, all sludge of sludge, soot, ash remains in the engine and continues to dangle with new oil! Therefore, always before changing the oil, warm up the engine, and it is better to drive (along the highway for 5-10 km or at least spin the engine from a traffic light a couple of times) - since at operating speed the oil pressure is higher and the sediment agitates better.

When the engine oil warms up, its viscosity also decreases - in simple terms - the oil becomes “like water”. In this regard, you will drain a larger volume of oil than when you drain it with a cold viscous substance adhering to the engine parts. The more waste oil you drain, the cleaner your engine will be and the longer the fresh oil will last.

When changing the oil, always drain the oil while hot! This way you will drain more of it and will drain as much dirt and deposits as possible!

So let's start changing the oil.

1. Unscrew the oil filler cap. We lay down under the car, having previously laid something so as not to lie on the bare ground. We find the cork:

We put the bowl under the drain plug and unscrew the plug. Since our oil is hot or warm - it is important not to burn your hand! It is best to wear a rubber household glove, a rag one can get wet in the oil and you will burn yourself. I usually do not use gloves, I have time to quickly remove my hand and if I drenched myself a little with oil, I quickly wipe it off with a rag. If the drain plug falls into the basin, it doesn't matter! When pouring oil into a PET bottle, you take out the cork and screw it back.

2. While the oil is being drained, let's unscrew the old filter. Usually the filters are wrapped by hand - they are also unscrewed by hand. But sometimes they stick on and you can only pull them off with a special oil filter remover. I use this:

Oil filter removers come in the form of a head with a key, chain as in the photo, belt - you can make a puller yourself.

We take a puller - we tear off the oil filter from its place and then unscrew it by hand. If your oil filter is installed with the throat down, then when you unscrew the filter, oil will flow from it - so that this does not happen, we put a rag.

Does the filter need to be filled with oil?

Before screwing on the new oil filter, I want to tell you about the features. Many people think that the oil filter needs to be filled with oil. The reason for their action is described as follows "So that the oil immediately enters the system" "so that an air lock does not form in the empty filter"

In fact, 99% does not need to fill the oil filter with oil when changing the oil!

This is clearly written on the filter itself. Installation instructions are present on almost every oil filter. If you read carefully and look at the pictograms it says something like the following

1. Clean the seating surface.
2. Apply a few drops of fresh oil to the oil filter rubber ring.
3. Hand-tighten and tighten the filter ¾ turn.
4. Check for leaks.

If you see an icon on the filter:

It means exactly "apply a few drops and lubricate the O-ring rubber." If it meant pouring oil into the filter, then the oiler would pour into the center. I will also give an argument in the form of technical documentation for toyota motor co. :

As you can see, there is no need to do any "pour oil into the filter when changing the engine oil!" A whole topic is devoted to this on the forum of our resource, where you can get acquainted with a large number of arguments

The main point is that by pouring oil into the oil filter you are doing a useless procedure, the pressure in the system will quickly pump oil through the filter, besides, the volume of the oil filter is a "little spit", and not a full-fledged lubricant. An air lock cannot occur - this is understandable if you study the principle of the oil filter.

And so we lubricate the rubber O-ring with oil and twist the filter by hand as written in the instructions for ¾ of a full turn.

4. Oil from the crankcase, we have a glass in a bowl. We tighten the drain plug. Attention is important! The plug perfectly protects your engine from leaks - you do not need to pull on the plug forcibly - otherwise you will twist the threads of the crankcase. They twisted it all the way and pulled it up a little by hand.

5. Take the canister, put the funnel in the neck and fill in the oil. Another trick - so that the oil does not splash out and flow past the neck in irregularities - the canister must be kept flat to the ground.

Fill about half of the 4L canister with oil. We take out the dipstick - wipe it with a rag and measure the oil level. The engine oil level should be between the Min and Max marks. So that the oil burnout does not take you by surprise, it is better, of course, to be closer to Max.

So the oil change is over. The plug was tightened, the filter was changed, the oil was poured, the level was checked. We start the engine, look at the display, the oiler icon should go out no later than in 6-8 seconds. After making one trip, be sure to check the oil level.

The oil level must be checked for hot oil 10 minutes after stopping the engine! If you check the level of cold oil, the oil is compressed at low temperatures and shows the wrong level. Also, be sure to check the oil level by parking the car on a level, horizontal area. If the car is not level, this greatly affects the oil level.

An important factor in the durability of vehicle engine components is a timely and correct oil change. How difficult is it to change the oil in the engine without involving the car service staff? Almost any car owner can do it on their own.

A car enthusiast who independently decides to change the oil in the engine must have a number of simple skills. The manufacturer's instructions and this article will help fill the knowledge gap.

We buy consumables

Before starting work, carefully read the instructions. Stock up on consumables and the right amount of engine oil. If you do not know your car, then we clarify the oil marking recommended for this car by the manufacturer from the instruction manual.

Video - how to change the engine oil yourself:

You should not buy it at random points, as there is a high risk of buying a low-quality product. Pay your attention to specialized car dealerships, where they can document the quality of their goods. In addition to oil, you will also need an oil filter.

Where to begin

Changing the oil will be problematic, without going to the inspection pit, overpass or lift. You need to stock up on a container suitable for collecting used oil.

You will also need to change the oil:

• oil filter wrench;
• cleaning materials;
• rubber gloves;
• lighting device (lantern, carrying lamp);
• a wrench for the drain nut.

On the oil pan we find the oil drain hole. A wrench is prepared, according to the size of the nut that closes the drain hole. A previously stored container is installed under the hole.

Drain the old oil from the car engine

Before starting work, you need to securely fix the vehicle. The car must be on the hand brake or in the parking lot (for cars with “automatic”). The plane on which the car is installed must be flat and solid, preventing the car from sliding to the side.

The car engine is turned off. It is worth waiting for a while for the oil and engine parts to cool, this will help avoid burns when replacing it. Next, the protective panels are removed, blocking access to the oil pan. All the necessary tools and a container for draining the "working off" are placed in an accessible place.

The container is then placed directly under the pallet. Using a wrench (counterclockwise) loosen the nut covering the drain hole. The loosened nut is unscrewed by hand. It is worth checking that the O-ring located on the nut does not fall into a container with oil.

Video - changing the oil in the VAZ 2114 engine:

After completely unscrewing the nut, remove it with a quick movement of the hand. We make sure that the oil drains into the container to avoid excessive contamination of your workplace. It is good to use cloth or paper as a bedding under the container.

After completely draining the oil, tighten the drain plug again.

Replacing the oil filter

Find the location of the oil filter. We wipe its body with a cleaning material. Manually (if possible) or with a key, weaken the filter by turning it a couple of centimeters. We are waiting for the oil to stop flowing. We install the drain plug exactly along the thread (to avoid damaging it with a crooked plug), then tighten it tightly.

We unscrew the filter with a key, then, as it loosened, we remove it by hand. We wipe the smudges with a cleaning material. We take a new filter. Having previously checked it for defects in the place of the seat. We make sure that the O-ring from the old filter does not remain in the seat.

Video - changing the oil in the Audi A6 engine:

Before installing a new filter, be sure to fill it with fresh oil. The oil pump takes some time to pump fresh engine oil through the system. By pouring oil into the filter, you partially do this work for it and reduce with insufficient lubrication. The new filter is carefully fitted into the seat. Use your hand and then tighten the filter with a wrench. We remove the smudges with a rag.

Fill engine oil into the engine

We are looking for a filler neck on the engine. Unscrew the lid and fill in engine oil with a funnel. The required amount of oil is indicated in the operating manual for each specific car brand. Let the butter settle for a while.

Video - changing the oil in the BMW N52 / N54 / N55 engine:

We collect all the items under the car. We start the engine at low revs. Using a flashlight or a portable lamp, we check the engine for oil leaks. Then the car is carefully removed from the overpass or observation pit.

Do not check the oil level if the vehicle is on a slope, which is often the case on ramps. For correct display of the oil level on the dipstick, it is necessary to install the car on a strictly horizontal surface. In case of a low oil level, add it to the required mark. That's actually the whole procedure for changing the oil in a car engine.

Video - how to change the oil in the engine yourself:

Regular oil change is a necessary procedure, it is recommended to carry it out at least 2 times a year. Many motorists make a replacement in the fall, because in the cold the car is subject to heavy loads. If your car often "gathers dust" idle, you drive off-road, in severe frosts or high humidity, often use a trailer or carry loads, then the load on the engine also increases, which means that the oil thickens and oxidizes faster, change it it is necessary with greater frequency.

When is an engine oil change needed?

Replacement times vary depending on oil type:

• mineral oils are changed every 6000-7000 km. mileage,
• semi-synthetic - 9-12 thousand km,
• synthetic mixtures withstand up to 15 thousand km.

Not the least role is played by engine's type:

• on a diesel engine, the oil is changed more often (every 7-9 thousand km),
• on gasoline units - less often (approximately every 12-15 thousand km).

Concerning gearboxes , the replacement interval is as follows: automatic - 50-70 thousand km, mechanics - 60-90 thousand km.

How to change the engine oil?

• We warm up the engine, wait 5-7 minutes for the oil in it to cool down, and pour the rest into a container. To do this, unscrew the plug on the engine crankcase with a socket wrench and immediately substitute the container for oil. We put rags or newspapers on the floor under the tank;
• The process of draining itself will take no more than 5 minutes, 2-3% of the oil will remain on the walls of the engine - this is not a big deal, but if you plan to change the manufacturer, you will have to flush the motor;
• See if there are any foreign impurities in the oil - if there is rust, sediment, etc. - you need to flush the engine, then you can fill in new oil. Pay attention to the color: the light oil is usable, the brown liquid similar to the color of Coca-Cola requires urgent replacement;
• When filling the engine with oil, control the level using the dipstick: first fill in 80% of the volume, and then top up, referring to the marks on the dipstick. Remember that underfilling is fraught with rapid wear of working parts, and when overflowing, it will begin to foam (due to the operation of the crankshaft), and will also disrupt the operation of rubbing parts;
• The oil filter must be changed, because if it is clogged, oil is passed by it. According to statistics, after 10 thousand km of run, the filter is clogged, the crude oil goes directly, and the engine will wear out faster. It is advisable to immediately add oil to the filter and lubricate (or better replace) the sealing gum;

• Take only high-quality oil from trusted manufacturers, it must correspond to the type of engine and the fuel system of the car;
• Vacuum oil change is a quick and affordable thing, but such an "express drain" should not be permanent, since more old oil remains in the engine than with a manual drain system;
• Do not be lazy to change the oil, even the highest quality filters will not be able to retain all impurities and particles of dirt and dust, as a result the engine will suffer - and it will be much more costly to change it !;
• Do not experiment with additives and additives - most often their effect is short-lived, but they can enter into a chemical reaction with the base oil, then you will have to go through the entire fuel system;
• Check the chassis when replacing - at the service station, the car is still lifted on a lift, but you will be sure of the complete safety of your vehicle.

Over time, any motor will consume more oil and will need to be changed more frequently. After 80-100 km of run, check the oil level and top up as necessary. Many modern models are equipped with sensors that notify that it is time to change the composition - these systems calculate the time by the nature of the ride and the mileage.