The word buggy hides a wide variety of car models that are very different from each other. When designing, it is important to adhere to certain proportions so that the parts match each other: in weight, size, maximum load capacity, etc. Consider different designs as power increases.
How to make a buggy with your own hands:
- From a motorcycle
- From OKI
- From Zaporozhets
From a motorcycle
A light little buggy can be assembled on the basis of an IZH motorcycle engine, or Ural. It will weigh 300 kilograms and reach speeds of up to 80 km / h. In this design, motorcycle parts are used as much as possible from small cars.
From OKI
An excellent budget buggy donor is OKA. The hubs are lightweight. The liquid-cooled engine is protected from overheating and is not as noisy as a motorcycle. The steering rack has a safety margin sufficient for its class. The OKI-based buggy has a higher cross-country ability than a production car.
From Zaporozhets
Zaporozhets, having a rear-engine layout, in fact, is a ready-made version of the buggy. When creating frame drawings, it is advisable to provide for the engine mount backwards for better cooling and weight distribution along the axles. In this case, it is necessary to turn over the main pair (differential) by swapping the right and left sides. And to make a special gearshift drive, since the gearbox stem turns from the driver to the rear bumper, and this complicates the linkage system.
Video of the process of building a buggy from a Zaporozhets
Shock absorbers, like the hubs for the buggy, can be left "native". But the suspension arms will have to be made by yourself, more on that below.
For simplicity, it is better to take a carburetor model so that there are no unnecessary problems with the electronics. While this is a matter of personal preference, the design remains the same. The engine is usually installed behind the driver. Front axle shafts and hubs of VAZ 2108, 09, etc. are used to drive the rear wheels. To increase the rigidity of the rear suspension, you can use the front struts with springs from the 41st Moskvich, because each car carries more than 300 kg.
For the all-wheel drive version, all four hubs are front, from the VAZ 2108. The axle shafts are connected to the cut-off axle from the "classic", for example, the VAZ 2106. On the rear axle, the trunnions are fixed without the ability to turn. And the front ones are like on a car. The differential of the power unit, for a uniform transmission of torque to the axles, it is better to block.
With this arrangement, it is worth considering that the maximum speed will decrease by the gear ratio of the axles used, since now the engine axle shafts transfer rotation to the wheels not directly, but through another differential. This makes it possible to use large diameter wheels without overloading the motor.
Homemade cars mean a homemade frame. For the supporting frame of the buggy, ordinary water pipes can be used, but it is better if they are seamless, round or square in cross section 30 - 50 mm in diameter. The upper part of the frame is welded from thin pipes. It is important to take into account that the frame must be able to withstand the weight of the vehicle and the force of the impact during rollover. This applies to buggies of any class.
To design, you must have:
- Pipe bender
- Grinder
- Welding machine
- Drill
It is advisable to keep trim boards and bars on hand, because there is always a need to raise some frame elements and fix them in this position.
The production of the frame begins on a level surface. The pipes bent, according to the drawings, are first tacked by welding, checked, and only after that they are finally welded. It is important to be careful that the frame does not lead, since metal stress occurs during welding. For the same reason, it is advisable not to join, but to use solid pipes.
Front suspension
The long A-wishbone suspension has proven itself to provide long wheel travel. Another plus is that it allows you to change the angle of inclination of the shock absorber with a spring, thereby adjusting the stiffness of the suspension.
The pendulum arm is subjected to heavy loads during operation, so it is important to pay special attention to the materials and quality of the welds when assembling this part.
To reduce wear on the silent blocks and extend their service life, the levers must be calculated as wide as possible. That is, the bases of the letter A, into which the silent blocks are pressed, should be as far apart as possible, but so that the width of the lever does not interfere with the rotation of the wheel.
A nuance that can later upset is the limited stroke of the finger of the lower ball joint in its socket. In other words, the pin may restrict the up or down travel of the suspension in the wrong place where expected. This needs to be checked at the design stage.
Rear suspension
If you decide to use a bridge, then the design task is simplified. But for a buggy, independent suspension is better. Levers can be longitudinal and transverse.
Cross arm
Take the front suspension that is used in many Japanese passenger cars as a reference. This is a triangular lever, one side of which is located across the car and is attached through one silent block, and the second shoulder goes forward to the center and serves as a jib that takes on the load when the car jerks.
Trailing arm
To successfully use the trailing arms, transverse reaction thrust is necessary, otherwise the buggy will not hold the road well. Silent blocks of the trailing arms last longer than on the "classic" transverse rods.
If you decide to build a buggy at home, time will not be wasted. Even if nothing comes of it, this is a great opportunity to get acquainted with the work of the main components of the car. And if you succeed, you will have a unique car.
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Every child dreams of riding a go-kart, motor scooter, moped, motorcycle, but when it comes to almost a real buggy, there is practically no limit to his delight. It will not be difficult to make this type of transport, only a little desire is needed. You just need to successfully purchase an engine from a 125 cm3 scooter.
DIY materials and tools
engine 125 cm3;
old metal water pipes;
electric welding;
wheels 10 inches;
steering rods from the VAZ 2101;
scooter shock absorbers;
brake pads.
Buggy making process
Step 1. Making the frame and steering
Using ordinary water pipes of different sections and profiles, a frame is made for the future buggy. Metal parts must be joined using conventional electric welding.
It is optimal to take regular 10 inch wheels from a scooter. Independent pendulum suspension, made with shock absorbers in both directions. In ordinary karting, the steering is done through the steering rack, in a homemade buggy it will not be. It is only necessary to find the steering rods from the Zhiguli "Kopeyka". Driving a buggy will be more difficult than a regular go-kart.
Step 2. Differential
For the existence of a reverse gear and a differential in the buggy, it is necessary to use a reducer axle from the "Ant" scooter, it has everything that we need. To reduce vibration of the engine, it must be firmly bolted to the frame. The drive must be positioned in accordance with the center of the pendulum attachment, thus, it becomes possible to adjust the chain tension.
Step 3. Installing the brakes
The brakes are installed only on the rear wheels. Brake drums are located on each axle shaft, they stop the buggy very well. It is necessary to get the cables from the Zhiguli hand brakes. When the pedal is depressed, they activate the brake pads on each of the drums.
Step 4. Final stages of assembly
The fuel tank is also taken from any scooter. The seat from Zaporozhets is ideal for a mini-buggy, it can be easily adjusted to any height. We put everything in its place and use this homemade product with pleasure.
Conclusion
Buggy in
Buggy is a rather unusual vehicle. In fact, a buggy is a car from which all the parts of the monocoque body were removed, and then transplanted onto an open chassis and equipped with large wheels. All this is required in order to prepare the car for off-road driving, in particular on sand dunes.
The first buggies were assembled in the USA (under the name “Dune Buggy”) and Great Britain (the British called this proud car “Beach Buggy”, that is, “beach bug”). In general, the word "buggy", that is, "bug", went exactly from there - the first models were made from used Volkswagen Beetle cars (that is, the Volkswagen Beetle), and since the new models were less lighter, the sharp-tongued Americans called the results bugs ...
Since then, buggies have been used almost everywhere where there is no road - in deserts, where they have become almost hits, both in sandy and ice; on remote farms where they provide a cheap alternative to traditional heavy pickup trucks ...
Even the US Army uses buggies based on light jeeps - when equipping such a clumsy-looking car with a machine gun, you can get a highly mobile firing point that will pass even where an armored personnel carrier does not pass.
In this article, we will look at the process of building our own buggy based on an old Soviet car, which was undeservedly forgotten and sent to the dustbin of history - ZAZ 968, that is, the classic forty-horsepower "Zaporozhets".
Part 1. Design
You will need blueprints. This is an axiom. Of course, you will not be able to comply with them 100% - after all, you do not work at the factory, but in the garage, but the drawings will still be needed. The basis of the buggy body is metal pipes, which should form the most rigid structure, which must be calculated in advance.
However, if you are too lazy to do it yourself, or you do not have enough knowledge, then there is always the opportunity to assemble a buggy according to the drawings that can be found on the Internet - there are many sites for lovers of such cars and most of them share their experience quite freely. We used drawings from the Soviet magazine Modelist-Constructor, and the buggy itself is called AB-82.
Part 2. Building the base
It is worth starting with the assembly of the frame, on which other parts of the car will then be installed. The material from which you will perform this can be an ordinary iron profile pipe, it is also an "iron profile".
In most cases, it is quite enough to withstand the weight of the engine, the rest of the car body, as well as a rider with a load. However, if you want to show off, you can use stronger and more expensive materials.
Suspension is worth considering. In our case, a VAZ-based front suspension was used - it is relatively cheap and at the same time quite reliable. Here's what has changed over the course of its rework and buggy fit:
Lever pipes - from the rear suspension VAZ "Classic". The one with silent blocks. Or silent brokers, as old motorists aptly call details of such quality abroad.
The ears for installing the blocks had to be made independently from metal with a thickness of 2 mm.
The fastening of the ball joint from below is a piece of the VAZ front lever.
Above - the VAZ relay tip, which replaced the ball one.
The camber bushing is welded to the upper arm (I had to turn to a turner, but the reinforcement was worth it). The same turner helped to adapt the upper ball joint to the tip - they have different cones.
IZHP-4 shock absorbers were used ... but they should not be used - they are too weak. Later they were replaced by twin shock absorbers. A little advice - when building a suspension, try to make sure that the kinematics of the levers make the contact patch of the tire with the road maximum. 
The rear suspension was made according to the method of a prefabricated hodgepodge of several VAZs with a belt limiting its travel.
The front wheels were originally VAZ, but the rear ones were planned to be used from Zaporozhets. However, later it turned out that ZAZ drum brakes were not to hell and bushings for VAZ wheels and VAZ disc brakes were ordered from the turner, respectively.
Part 3. Installing the engine
If you continue to follow the instructions and drawings in this article, it's time to try putting the engine and gearbox. In our case, we used "native" mounts with a slight "file modification".
Since they did not follow the drawings perfectly. Ideally, they should also stand up to their relatives. A native generator relied on the motor, but it did not justify itself and was later replaced by VAZ products. The pedals are native.
An important point - in a vase, the motor is opposite, so in order to have four gears forward and one backward, it is worth turning the differential gear. This trick is only possible on forty-horsepower engines, so be careful. Carburetor - VAZ through an adapter.
Part 4. Making a bucket seat
The tank was installed in the form of an old five-liter canister. Later, he acquired various sensors, a beautiful hatch and other amenities.
Ready. The key to start!
It is worth noting that this design turned out to be purely a test one - the Zaporozhets engine died rather quickly and an inglorious death, after which it was replaced by a VAZ with alterations of the frame. But the checkpoint through the transition frame still feels fine ... but was replaced by AZLK 2141 due to the higher reliability of the latter.
The seat was also replaced with an ordinary, soft RECARO GT1, and a full-fledged upper body with a dashboard was also made.
After these modifications, tests were carried out, which showed an average off-road speed of 53 km / h, and the maximum recorded - 146.7 km / h.
This four-wheel drive buggy is designed for 3-4 people. Gathered mainly to participate in competitive events between all-terrain vehicles. According to the author's idea, the all-terrain vehicle should have maximum cross-country ability, as well as remain light enough.
Materials and parts used in the construction of this all-terrain vehicle:
1) Oki engine
2) Wheels of the camera 1065 by 450 and stripped 9.00x16 from the tractor cart PTS4
3) Bridges from a classic vase
4) hubs and drive shafts from vaz 2109
5) Wheels vases, cornfield.
6) shock absorbers and springs from oki
7) back seat from Oka
8) the parking brake cable from the VAZ 2109
9) from the fret "dozens" throttle cable.
Let's consider in more detail the stages of construction of an all-terrain vehicle.
To begin with, the author sorted out the bridges, the mounting brackets were redone at the rear axle.
The front axle was assembled from the rear axle of a classic vase, and the drive shafts and hubs were taken from the vaz 2109
The wheel travel is about 22 cm.
From the disks from the vase and cornfields, suitable for new wheels were welded. It turned out to be 16 inches with a width of 25 centimeters.
Threaded clamps were also made, a kind of threaded nuts, bolts are screwed into them, which help to keep the tire from turning.
The drive shafts were made 87 centimeters long, the wall thickness of the seamless pipe is 3 mm, the outer diameter is 27 mm. The shafts will be installed between the box and the bridges.
Rear shock absorbers are installed, as well as front springs. the ball ones turned out with a small gap of about 1 mm, after tightening the bolts, the levers tightened.
The stage of designing the all-terrain vehicle frame is coming to an end:
The steering was done:
When loading the all-terrain vehicle, the shock absorbers sag by 10 centimeters and the steering becomes at a more comfortable angle. The front axle width was about 150 centimeters, so the oki rear seat was installed.
The rocker is installed:
The shift lever is located under the left knee.
Rear drive shaft mounted:
It was decided to shorten the gearbox lever:
the muffler has also been simplified:
The engine was installed longitudinally relative to the base, the differential is free, the left drive goes to the rear axle, and the right one, respectively, to the front.
The radiator was moved to the front of the all-terrain vehicle to improve airflow and, accordingly, engine cooling:
The next step will be to cover the all-terrain vehicle with plastic, as well as the installation of combat wheels.
the following dashboard was made:
A modified parking brake cable from a VAZ 2109 was used as a clutch cable, and a standard cable from a dozen frets was used to drive the gas.
A muffler was attached:
Here you can see the angle of rotation of the all-terrain vehicle wheels:
Photos of diagonal hanging:
The appearance of the all-terrain vehicle:
Lightweight i-324A wheels were installed in size 850 by 270r16:
Of the design flaws, the following were noted:
There is too little space to install a normal passenger seat on the left side of the driver, this is mostly hindered by the radiator from the VAZ 2110. Also, not factory standard driveshafts were used, but homemade ones about 90 centimeters long. the reason for this was that the factory shafts are only 80 centimeters long, and therefore too short.
Suspension test video:
The length of the homemade shafts is about 90 centimeters with a total wheelbase of 240 centimeters. The rear universal joint from the field has a length of only 80 centimeters and it is not possible to lengthen it to the necessary standards.
In addition, the homemade shafts turned out to be excellent, there are no hints of problems with them, all the loads are maintained, twisting is not observed.
If you use the rear driveshafts of the field, then the base will be 220 centimeters, in addition, you will have to come up with a connection to the gearbox from the oka, and because of the narrowing of the base it will be inconvenient to intervene passengers.
The GPU in the gearbox is not welded, as this can affect the integrity of the drive axles, especially heavy loads will go on the axle axles. Since the car will be operated in harsh rally conditions, it is better not to neglect reliability.
the maximum speed of the all-terrain vehicle is exactly 57 kilometers per hour on a flat road, it accelerates for about half a minute to this speed, the dynamics are very weak, mainly due to the oki engine.
However, there is enough traction in first gear to skid with all four wheels in the mud, but the size of these wheels is not large, only 850 mm in diameter, which will not be known after installing more powerful wheels.
There was an attempt to install the wheels of the KF-97, but because of the gap of the thresholds, they do not fit, so the all-terrain vehicle will be refined for the required parameters.
In the meantime, a short folding seat was made, as well as air intakes for the radiator:
After eliminating minor flaws, the all-terrain vehicle was changed into Kf-97 wheels, they are much larger than their predecessors, which will have a better effect on the vehicle's cross-country ability.
If you decide to make a buggy with your own hands, you should know that there are two types of drawings: sports (racing) and tourist. When assembling the structure, do not forget that certain proportions must be observed, the parts must correspond to one another in size, weight, load, etc. Self-assembled machine should be light (about 300 kg).
The racing model must have a reinforced tube frame. A reliable frame is required to protect the driver in the event of collisions or overturns at difficult distances. Such a car is made for one. The tourist buggy "dresses" in the body and has two seats.
What tool do we need
Before you start assembling at home, you need to prepare everything you need. You will need a set of tools in your work:
Welding(for the initial setting of the frame elements and the final welding of the pipes). Remember! During welding, metal stress arises. Therefore, make sure that the frame does not lead.
Bulgarian(pipes will need to be cut, and the edges will need to be leveled for welding).
Pipe bender(they are different both in price and in the amount of work that they can perform: manual, manual hydraulic, electro-hydraulic, electric). The pipes will have to be bent in different places, according to the drawing.
Attention!When buying a pipe bender, ask what diameter and thickness of pipes it can work with, what is the maximum bending angle and the accuracy of the bending angle.
Drill.
Bars and trims of boards(for raising or fixing various elements during construction).
Milling machine.
Metal crown.
Frame material:
Pipes(about 50 m of pipe, diameter 40 mm, wall thickness 3 mm). Pipes can be seam or seamless.
What we take as a basis
You can assemble the buggy yourself, taking as a basis the supporting frame of a motorcycle, "Oka", "Zaporozhets", "Niva" or VAZ. You need a body, frame, wheels, fuel tank, engine, braking system, shock absorber, exhaust pipe, air filter, steering wheel (can be taken from a racing kart), seat (preferably equipped with a headrest). This is not a complete list of everything you need.
In a homemade buggy model there will be no hood, trunk, doors. The windshield will be replaced by a fine metal mesh.
Attention! The engine and fuel tank are separated from the driver's seat by a fireproof bulkhead. On the right side of the driver, a fire extinguisher is fixed (one branch pipe is directed towards the engine, the second towards the driver). The fire protection must be triggered from both sides (from the two levers).
Buggy from a motorcycle
If we take an old motorcycle IZH or Ural as a basis, then the assembly can result in a compact buggy of 300 kg, which can travel off-road at a speed of 80 km / h. To assemble a buggy, you need a motorcycle engine (although this is a somewhat noisy option) and parts from a small car.
"Oka" is a good donor for a buggy
Oka is a very profitable buggy donor. The Oka engine is liquid-cooled, and therefore protected from overheating, the hubs are lightweight, the steering rack has a sufficient margin of safety. The braking system and shock absorbers from "Oka" are suitable for your buggy.
Attention!When disassembling the car into parts for a buggy, do not forget to keep the certificate of deregistration.
The Oka seat is only suitable for extreme sports (it's too hard). It is best to look for a seat with good lateral support during disassembly. At the same time, we must not forget about the headrest - this is the protection of your cervical vertebrae during off-road driving. The Oka-based buggy is characterized by high cross-country ability.
"Zaporozhets" for buggy, ready-made version
If we take "Zaporozhets" as a basis, then it will turn out to be a ready-made rear-engined model. The motor must be secured backwards (this will improve cooling and evenly distribute the weight along the axles). The differential will have to be turned over (swap the right and left sides). Modify the gearshift drive (since the gearbox stem turns towards the rear bumper from the driver - and this complicates the linkage system).
Make a buggy from a VAZ
If you are afraid of problems with electronics, then it is better to take a carburetor VAZ as a basis. The motor, as in all buggies, is attached behind the driver at the back. Front axle shafts and VAZ hubs are used to drive the rear wheels. The axle shafts are attached to the trimmed bridge from the VAZ 2106.
The trunnions on the rear axle are fixed without the possibility of turning. And the front ones are like a car. The differential is blocked (for uniform transmission to the axles). If you take the front struts with springs from the 41st "Moskvich", then the stiffness of the rear suspension will increase. The upper part of the buggy frame will need to be welded from seamless water pipes (section 30 - 50 mm).
Buggy based on "Niva"
If you are going to use the buggy as a transport for fishing or in the forest, then you can take the "Niva" as a basis. On the basis of "Niva" you can build an all-wheel drive buggy. Both front suspensions from the "Niva" are taken as a suspension (the entire front suspension assembly weighs 130 kg). On the overcooked wheels from "Niva" they put Uaz tires. To increase travel, the suspension arms can be lengthened as much as possible (the track can be increased to 1550 mm).
Choosing a suspension
Independent suspension is a great option for a buggy. The levers are suitable longitudinal and transverse (you can take the front suspension from Japanese cars). This is a triangular lever: one side of it is attached across the machine through one silent block, and the other serves as a jib that takes over the load. On sports buggies, it is recommended to install a suspension with one trailing arm. This option is the simplest and easiest. With such a suspension, body roll will be minimized, and the weight of the machine is evenly distributed.
Good to know! If you plan to drive buggies on public roads, you will have to put headlights, bumpers, direction indicators (just like on a regular car, so as not to violate traffic rules).
In an independent candle-type suspension, a spring acts as an elastic element, which moves along vertical guides at the ends of the bridge beam. If there is an independent suspension on the driving wheels of the buggy, then the cardan joint is used to transfer torque from the main gear to the wheels. The most commonly used cardan joint is with two joints. On simpler structures in the axle shafts, one cardan joint is placed.
Front
The front suspension of the buggy is best done with an “A” on the long wishbones. It is this design that gives a large travel to the wheels and allows you to change the angle of inclination of the spring with a shock absorber (thus adjusting the stiffness of the suspension).
When assembling the pendulum arm, pay attention to the material and quality of the welds, as this part is subject to very heavy loads. Leverage the maximum width of the base of the letter "A" (this will extend the life of the silent blocks). The width of the lever must not interfere with the rotation of the wheel. The design flaw is that the stroke of the pin of the lower ball joint in its socket is limited (up or down, it will not be in the place where we would like).
Back
For the rear suspension of the buggy, we choose a trailing arm that keeps the wheel from shifting (the wheel on the cardan sits rigidly). True, there is one flaw: wheel camber changes for the worse.
To achieve stability in motion, variable values of the angle of inclination of the wheels are needed. The levers will allow movement in two planes. If there is such a suspension on the rear axle, then the front suspension can be any. If in such a suspension the swinging axis of the lever passes through the center of the semi-axle cardan, then there is no need to install a second cardan at the wheel hub.
