Which v brakes are better for a bicycle. Disc or rim brakes: which is better? But they also have many disadvantages

Why disc brakes?

In we looked at the most common types of bicycle brakes, analyzed their advantages and disadvantages, and also studied the features of their design. But it is quite possible that soon all this information will be interesting only in historical terms, since the variety of types of brakes has been steadily decreasing over the past few years: it is disc brakes that are displacing other types into the niche of budget solutions with a simple and cheap design that differs little from model to model.

Just a few years ago, disc brakes were used only in bicycles for extreme sports, and even in such a discipline as cross-country, rim brakes firmly held their position as lighter, more reliable and not much inferior in performance to discs. Now everything has changed. Mountain bikes are almost universally equipped with discs, with the exception of very budget models; discs are allowed in road racing and cyclocross, the flywheel of their implementation spins up, and soon rim brakes may disappear from there too. Even on cheap bicycles, rim brakes are now and then replaced with simple Chinese disc brakes.

The reason for the victorious march of discs across the cycling world lies on the surface: they are more efficient than vibration brakes, work better in less-than-ideal road conditions, cope well with dirt and icing, and do not wear out the wheel rim. What is important in the case of cheap bicycles is that the quality of braking does not depend on the curvature of the rim.

Historically, disc brakes were much heavier and more expensive than vibration brakes, but the increase in their production naturally leads to lower prices, and in the case of hydraulics there are no obstacles (except marketing ones) to making the brake both inexpensive and lightweight.

General device

Let us briefly recall the design of a disc brake (a more detailed description is given in). Its main parts are the brake lever, which acts on a caliper with brake pads that compress the brake disc (rotor) mounted on the wheel hub. The caliper is attached to the frame (fork) by means of an adapter (or directly) and is actuated by a cable for mechanical brakes or hydraulic fluid pressure for hydraulic ones.

As a rule, with mechanical brakes only one pad moves, bending the rotor and pressing it against the second, stationary one. In a typical hydraulic brake, both pads move synchronously towards each other using two pistons, but other, more complex designs are also available. Adjustment of mechanical brakes is carried out by tightening the cable and pushing the fixed block towards the movable one (with a screw), while hydraulic brakes may either not have adjustment, or usually the adjustment affects only auxiliary aspects (for example, the distance of the handle from the steering wheel or its stiffness).

An important difference between mechanical brakes and hydraulic ones is that when the pads wear out, the former require tightening the cable and tightening the stationary pad so that the brakes do not fail, while the latter ideally allow you to forget about adjustments from the moment the new pads are installed until they are completely worn out. The other side of the coin is the high complexity of the hydraulic design, the requirement for precision processing and high quality parts, and the complexity of repairs. In contrast, a mechanic is difficult to damage and easy to maintain. But first things first.

Selecting disc brakes

Hydraulics or mechanics?

The choice between hydraulic and mechanical drive disc brakes is one of the most pressing issues when upgrading a bicycle. As often happens, there is no single correct solution to this issue; moreover, there are many contradictory real-life examples of operation showing the suitability or unsuitability of certain brakes for given tasks. There are also about an equal number of people who are forever disappointed in one of these types of brakes, and would never put one on their bike again. I’ll make a reservation right away that at the end of this section there will be no banal conclusion: “Hydraulics are needed for racing, and mechanics are for tourism, the main thing is not to confuse them!” - the reality is actually more complicated, and you will have to make the final choice yourself (or just give up and buy the first one you come across).

At the time of writing, mechanical disc brakes have already faded into the shadow of hydraulics, which have recently become noticeably cheaper, partially gotten rid of “childhood” diseases and frankly unsuccessful designs (for example, Hayes Sole hydraulics with one fixed pad, which combines the disadvantages of hydraulics and mechanics ). If disc mechanics are found on bicycles in a store, they are usually on cheap models (as a first step from vibration brakes) - accordingly, the cheapest brakes from little-known companies are used. The author has used similar brakes on various bicycles and cannot recommend them for use. Poor design, awkward and/or unreliable pad fitment, need for too frequent adjustments, poor modulation (sharp transition between too little and too much braking) are the main problems that the user of such brakes may encounter.

However, miracles do not happen, and cheap hydraulics can also cause problems, if you get a defective copy. Most common problems unsuccessful examples of brakes— hydraulic fluid leakage and asymmetrical movement of the brake pads. Unfortunately, the most effective way to solve these problems is to replace the brake assembly with a normal one, since spare parts will most likely not be available in this price range (the same is true for disc mechanics, but at least the handles and cables are standard).

Thus, if you have a very limited budget, it is better to refuse any discs in favor of the notorious vibration brakes from Shimano or Avid.

As your budget grows, the choice of brakes becomes wider. There is stiff competition here between the best mechanical brakes (eg Avid BB7) and average-good hydraulics (eg Shimano Deore and above). Let's look at the advantages and disadvantages of both options.

Requirement for regular maintenance. If the question is about which brake is best for a wife, mother or child, then the author is both in favor of hydraulics. As already mentioned, a good hydraulic brake requires almost no routine maintenance, except for the basic operation of replacing the pads (every 1000-2000 km on average) with simultaneous adjustment and cleaning of the caliper. It is also advisable to bleed the brakes every 1-2 years, but it is not a sin to entrust such an operation to a specialist.

Against this background, mechanics require constant monitoring of the condition of the pads and adjustment of their position. If you neglect this matter, then at some point the brake will simply stop working. Therefore, for a person who does not want or cannot continuously monitor the condition of the bicycle, good hydraulics are better suited - set it and forget it.

Power, modulation and tactile sensations during operation. If in terms of power there is approximate parity (within reasonable limits - after all, no one drives a manual from the hellish mountains), then the modulation and tactile sensations are better with hydraulics. Modulation is a complex indicator that characterizes the unambiguous and convenient control of braking force. The hydraulic handle is smoothly pressed approximately 1-2 cm until the disc touches the pads; with further increase in pressure, the power increases smoothly and predictably, which allows you to accurately dose the force.

In mechanics, the braking force increases in steps: it appears when the rotor is touched by a movable block, then it increases slightly, and at the moment the rotor is compressed, a jerk occurs between both blocks. This is not very pleasant and requires some getting used to so as not to over-slow down.

Reliability. We will not consider purely mechanical failures caused by external reasons or obvious defects, for example, a crumbled brake lever after transportation on an airplane - all components without exception are susceptible to this, and equally rarely. It is clear that in the event of a purely mechanical failure, the damaged part will need to be replaced, regardless of the type of brake.

Let's be honest: before the eyes of the author of the article, frames, wheels, racks, seatposts, saddles were repeatedly broken, and tires were torn. The disc brake was mechanically broken only once - when a rider did not secure the hydraulic line to the bicycle, it dangled freely in different directions, eventually caught on a branch and broke out of the handle.

During normal operation, the reliability of both types of brakes tends to be exemplary, But provided that the hydraulic brake is “normal” - that is, not flowing and with normally moving pads. If you come across “problematic” hydraulics, then you can’t avoid dancing with a tambourine - then the handle will start to fall, then the pads are all covered in oil, or the automatic feed does not work. Typically, when such problems occur, the brake may need to be bled or fluid added to the system, which must be kept in mind during long autonomous trips.

Ease of diagnosis, chance of problems like “unknown crap” appearing. Here mechanical brakes are, of course, far ahead with their simple and straightforward design, easily accessible for inspection. Many cyclists have no idea how hydraulic brakes work and therefore will not be able to diagnose the problem if the brake starts to malfunction. Therefore, among those who do not want to understand the intricacies of hydraulics, mechanical brakes are very popular.

On the other hand, if a person is absolutely far from technology, then both mechanics and hydraulics will be equally incomprehensible to him, a kind of black box: “press the handle - it slows down.” Here, the first thing that comes to mind is the absence of the need for regular hydraulic adjustments, which in this case can be important.

Maintainability in field conditions. During long journeys far from civilization, if in the event of a fatal brake failure it is not possible to complete the route using the only one remaining, the most universal option (for both mechanics and hydraulics) seems to be the presence of a spare brake assembly. After all, you can never guess in advance what will be broken, how fatally and for what reason. Of course, this looks like advice to carry a spare bike with you, since it is impossible to prevent all possible equipment breakdowns.

If we do not consider such extreme and unlikely cases, then for hydraulics it makes sense to carry a bleeding kit with a certain amount of fluid, and for mechanics - a spare cable with a jacket (of course, in any case, do not forget about a good supply of pads). This will help you cope with simple problems, but complex problems, such as a broken brake lever or a burst caliper, still cannot be fixed on your knee. A broken hydraulic line, which many fear, will most likely appear only after a serious accident, when there will be many other failed components. As already mentioned, you should not take the possibility of a brake failure to heart, since there are two of them in any case.

The issue of pad wear in mud. The most common “breakdown” of any brakes is worn-out pads, the service life of which is completely unpredictable and differs depending on the road surface and driving conditions. hundreds once. If you have driven several thousand km on your previous pads, this does not mean that in heavy mud you will not wear out the new pads in 5-50 km. With defective pads (these are rare, but they do occur), the linings can tear off immediately. The difference is that with mechanics you feel the wear directly with your palm (on the sagging handle), and hydraulics work as if nothing had happened, right up to the start of metal-on-metal braking, and even after that (for inattentive cyclists).

If you need to knead very serious dirt, then some consider the advantages of mechanics to be that when dragging a bicycle theoretically, you can move the pads apart (however, in practice no one does this anyway), and they will not wear off on a dirty rotor. With hydraulics, after any pressing of the handle, a standard gap of a fraction of a millimeter is established. But there is another side to the coin - if you need to go through the mud drive, then with hydraulics you will always have brakes as long as the pads are alive. And the mechanic will have to tighten it up every couple of kilometers so as not to be left without brakes.

Sensitivity to pollution, freezing, rust. Here, too, everything is ambiguous. The moving parts of a mechanical brake, especially the jacketed cable, are definitely prone to contamination, souring and rusting; their condition and ease of movement must be monitored. The author once pulled a rusty cable out of a shirt by pulling with both hands, while the owner of the bicycle held the shirt with both hands.

Hydraulics don’t have such obvious problems with dirt and rust (unless, of course, you actively drive on salty winter roads), but on the other hand, some hydraulic brakes really don’t like cold weather - the seals harden and begin to poison the fluid or suck in air. But it should be noted that this only applies to some brakes. However, in the case of really difficult winter hikes, there is already a reason to install mechanics so that you don’t have to solve “winter” problems in severe frost far from human habitation.

Shuffling and clanking of the pads on the rotor. In terms of the distance from the pads to the rotor, the mechanic is clearly ahead, and this distance is adjustable (including without user intervention, due to wear of the pads). At the same time, with hydraulics the distance is clearly determined by the design, and is always very small, comparable to the tolerance for the flatness of the rotor. For some brakes, light contact with the rotor occurs continuously. It follows that with hydraulics, a slight shuffling of the rotor on the pads is typical, and the shuffling may even increase or decrease after removing and installing the wheel (due to micro-bends of the axle). This is even more noticeable with large rotor sizes.

At the same time, you need to remember that the braking power, the stroke of the handle and the distance between the pads and the disc are interconnected by the laws of physics, and in the general case it is impossible to increase the distance without increasing the stroke of the handle or weakening the braking. Simply put, powerful mechanical brakes with a rigid handle will have the same fractions of a millimeter of distance between the pads and the rotor. True, Shimano uses Servo-Wave technology on hydraulics, which allows you to quite noticeably increase the gap between the pads - the lever mechanism at the beginning of the handle stroke compresses the pads, first quickly, and then with increasing force.

Weight. For some reason, it is a fairly common belief that disc mechanics are lighter than disc hydraulics. In fact, this is not true. Let's use the component weight database and compare two brakes that are in the same price range:
- Shimano Deore assembled front+rear ≈ 1100 g(2 handles, 2 calipers, 2 rotors, oil, a total of 2.3 meters of hydraulic lines).
- Avid BB7 assembled front+rear ≈ 1200 g(2 SD7 handles, 2 calipers, 2 rotors, a total of 2.3 meters of cables and jackets).
Here we must remember that Avid BB7 is practically the ceiling for the development of disc mechanics, and Shimano Deore is just an inexpensive middle-class hydraulic brake. In fact, even without calculations it is clearly visible that a mechanical caliper is much more metal-intensive than a hydraulic one, and steel cables and jackets are heavier than a plastic tube with liquid.

Trunk installation issue

When buying disc brakes, you need to remember that they often do not fit well with the trunk. Of course, the design of the frame is primarily important here, but alas, frames are usually made in such a way that the trunk rack must pass through the disc brake brake machine. How to deal with this? This problem has been around for many years, and many possible solutions have been invented:

Choosing a more compact brake. Hydraulic calipers are often smaller in size than mechanical ones, and it is easier to install a rack on them.

Use of longer mounting bolts and spacer bushings. The trunk legs move slightly apart, giving you an additional chance to avoid touching the caliper. If the bushings are of a reasonable length (say, up to 5 mm), the fastening strength does not suffer, but if the bolts are very long, or stacks of washers are used instead of bushings, the bolt may bend or break.

Using homemade or factory adapters that move the trunk back. The possibility of using such adapters depends on the design of the trunk. Practice has shown that adapters made from 5 mm thick aluminum plates are suitable for transporting loads of up to 30 kg, and they can be made in one evening.

Installing the luggage rack on the frame stays using clamps. It is important to ensure that the rack does not move too far forward, which will cause the cyclist to hit the backpack with his heels. Also, light frames may not have stays designed for such a load.

Making holes on the frame yourself (welding lugs, drilling holes where there were none). Requires specific skills and can also place undesigned loads on the frame, which can lead to its failure.

Using special racks for disc brakes. Please note that such racks may be less durable than regular ones.

Finally, choosing a frame with a caliper located inside the rear triangle, which usually solves the problem of installing the rack on the root.

The choice of one or another method or a combination of them is determined by the design of the frame, brakes, trunk, as well as the capabilities of the bicycle owner.

Hydraulic fluid: oil or brake fluid

DOT3, DOT4 and DOT5.1 brake fluids are compatible in brakes and have similar properties, so from now on they will simply be called DOT4 (to avoid confusion with DOT5, which is not compatible and does not seem to be used in bicycles at all).

Another item of sluggish holivar. Quite a lot of people who want to buy hydraulic brakes look with a microscope for the advantages and disadvantages of each type of fluid, on the basis of which they give up on certain manufacturers (Shimano, Tektro and Magura use oil, the rest, usually, — on brake fluid). In fact, for the end user there is practically no difference in boiling and freezing points, and the type of fluid is not the first characteristic of the brake that needs to be looked at.

Of course, there is a difference between the types of fluid: DOT4 is cheaper and more readily available, but special oil is more friendly when a biker interacts with the insides of the brakes (DOT4, as is known, is very poisonous, corrosive and requires gloves when working). For example, there is a known case when a jet of brake fluid broke through a defective caliper body and hit a person in the face. Also, sometimes when the brakes are not pumped carefully, the fluid scatters to the sides; in such cases, the oil is more “user-friendly”. But a simple user has nothing to do with the fluid directly, handing over the brakes to a service center.

Another specific “service” problem is that DOT4 is hygroscopic and, in an opened package, gradually accumulates moisture from the air (at the same time, the tendency to boil quickly increases), unlike oil, which can be stored in an opened package for a very long time. Therefore, opened DOT4 packaging should be used fairly quickly and not kept for years. I would like to believe that the service center will not fill the brakes with residual brake fluid from last season.

From the experience of operating two models of brakes with DOT4 and three models with oil, we can say that in terms of their viscosity, resistance to high temperatures and quality of work in winter, both types of fluid are approximately the same; a much greater difference in operation is made by the difference between specific instances of the same same brakes.

By the way, instead of expensive and hard-to-find branded oil, some successfully use liquid (mineral oil) LHM+, used in brakes and shock absorbers of Citroen cars. In terms of viscosity at -40°C and boiling point, it is completely equivalent to DOT4. One thing you definitely shouldn't do is pour DOT4 into brakes intended for oil, and vice versa. The chance of damaging the brakes is very high. Also, DOT5 cannot be used (but DOT5.1 can) in brakes designed for DOT4. For the convenience of readers, I offer a compatibility table for hydraulic fluids.

Name




Shimano Mineral Oil
Magura Royal Blood

Green - compatible.

Yellow - compatible, but at the owner's responsibility (brake warranty may be voided).

Red - not compatible, brakes will fail.

Brake discs

The brake disc (often called the rotor) is a part that many cyclists unfairly ignore, buying just about anything to make it cheaper. But at the same time, the rotor has a significant impact on the feel of the brake, if only because with a bent rotor the brake does not work at all.

Rotors are available in two main mounting standards:

Splined Centerlock (CL) with a fixing ring (lockring) for the cassette remover. Some bushings, like the photo above left, use an integrated system cup puller.

6 bolt turnkey Torx T25.

There are other less common standards: 4-bolt, increased CL, etc. Accordingly, you should buy the kind of rotors that your wheels are designed for.

Centerlock is good for the ability to almost instantly remove the rotor, which is important when loading a bicycle on an airplane; it is also almost impossible to tear off the remover, unlike Torx screws. But the 6-bolt standard is simpler in design and allows the use of thick axles without sacrificing protection from dirt. Adapters are available to fit a 6-bolt rotor to a CL hub (pictured), however they are not compatible with all rotors and hubs.

Rotors are available in several common diameters: 140, 160, 180, 203 mm; non-standard diameters are also available, for example, 170 or 220 mm. The larger the rotor diameter, the higher the braking force, but at the same time the higher the torsional loads on the fork, the likelihood of pad shuffling increases, and rotors of 203 mm or more generally do not support all forks and frames. For many bicycle users, a 160+160 mm set is sufficient. Nowadays, the front wheel is usually set to 180 mm, which is important for cross-country racing and for heavy cyclists. 203 mm and more are used in extreme sports.

Depending on the diameter of the brake disc and the type of mounting holes on the fork (frame), it may be necessary to install a caliper adapter. Mounting holes are either longitudinal (Post Mount) or transverse (IS Mount), and most calipers are available in the Post Mount standard. Front and rear adapters are conditionally interchangeable and differ by 1 rotor size (for example, a front 180mm adapter is very similar to a rear 160mm adapter). However, a file may be needed when installing the rear adapter onto an IS fork.

In order to reduce weight, expensive rotors often have an aluminum “spider” on which the working steel part of the rotor is attached. Such a rotor is very rigid and resists accidental impacts well, but if it is bent by a strong blow, it will be very difficult to straighten it. Also, a rotor with a spider may be incompatible with some brakes - it may cling to the caliper. Rotors without a spider are usually openwork, with thin spokes. They bend easily from accidental impacts; if bent, they can be easily straightened, but such a rotor can soon bend again on its own due to the metal memory effect.

Of the good rotors, the author can recommend Shimano XT on a spider (see photo), available in 6-bolt and CL versions. They are very difficult to bend, they are well ventilated, and thanks to the large holes, dirt quickly falls out, which cannot be said about models with many small holes. The author does not see any benefit (as well as harm) for the average cyclist from the multilayer rotor design and built-in radiators.

Brake pads

As mentioned earlier, the most common brake “breakdown” is worn out pads. Let us remind you that the service life of the pads, depending on road conditions, can vary from a few to thousands of kilometers. Thus, having brake pads in stock (and being able to change them) is extremely advisable on absolutely any trip, unless you want to one day find yourself on the road with one “dead” and one brake that is dying. This is especially true for owners of rare brakes, for which pads cannot be purchased just like that. What to choose?

Brake pads are produced in several dozen standard sizes, and the same manufacturer can simultaneously use half a dozen standard sizes of pads in different brakes, and if we take into account the brakes of older lines, then many times more. For most brake models, there are two types of pads on sale:

Organic(English) resin, organic). They have low cost and good performance for everyday driving in dry and wet conditions. They are inferior to metalized ones in terms of adhesion to the disc under heavy loads and in terms of durability.

Metallized(English) sintered, metal, semi-metal). They have high durability and excellent grip on the disc under heavy loads. But they are noisier, more expensive, and less efficient when cold. Ideal for competitions and for riding in mud and sand.

The difference between these two types is critical during active driving, for example, in competitions. It cannot be said that the second type much more durable than the first, specific driving conditions influence much more strongly. The author quite successfully uses organic pads even in the most difficult road conditions. There are other types of pads (ceramic, carbon, etc.), but they are not widely used.

Depending on the level of brakes, the brake pad backing can be made of steel, copper, titanium or aluminum. Aluminum substrate is slightly more expensive, but lighter and better at dissipating heat than steel. The advantages of a titanium substrate are unknown (the disadvantage is low thermal conductivity).

Some brake pads may have a built-in radiator (pictured) to improve brake cooling and allow dirt to build up on the brakes faster. In addition, it is easy to bend the radiator with a side impact on the brake. Fortunately, if mountain racing is not planned, then you can buy pads without a radiator.

Brake pads sometimes become greasy (from a leaking brake, or simply if you drive through a puddle of diesel fuel or fill it with oil while lubricating the chain), and they begin to howl, and the braking force decreases sharply. The manufacturer recommends replacing such pads. The “folk” method of treatment is calcination on a burner, but there is an opinion that this can lead to the brake linings breaking off (oddly enough, after this the brake works better than with greasy pads). On the other hand, the author quite successfully wore out the hardened pads, and the linings were twice torn off the almost new pads.

What to take from disc brakes?

On the question of the best mechanical brakes, the opinion of cyclists is unusually friendly - this Avid BB7. A well-thought-out design, the ability to quickly adjust both pads using twisters, pads of the “correct” size (and not 1x1 cm, like cheap mechanics, often in addition with fastening with magnets). Shimano also produces not the worst brakes.

In the case of hydraulic brakes, the best model is the one that creates the least amount of problems for its owner, and it does not have to be expensive. The presence of a rotary outlet of the hydraulic line from the caliper is also shown (in order to conduct the hydraulic line with minimal loops), but many adjustments are not necessary.

A useful feature of a number of designs is the top-loading of the pads, which allows you to remove the pads for inspection and cleaning without removing the caliper or wheel (especially good if you only need a hex wrench to replace the pads and nothing more). Some brakes have a symmetrical brake handle, suitable for both left and right hands - this can hardly be called a significant advantage, since with new brakes it is easy to swap the handles (if they are not symmetrical) when cutting hydraulic lines.

In the end, what should you choose? We examined the issue of choosing the cheapest brakes earlier, and as the budget increases, the choice becomes more difficult: both types of brakes have both advantages and disadvantages, moreover, important for the average ordinary cyclist, and not for some abstract racer from the cycling Olympus. In fairness, from the author’s personal experience, brakes are one of the most rarely broken components of a bicycle. Frames, wheels, luggage racks, seatposts, saddles break, tires tear - and the brakes, although with their own specific problems, work (as long as there are pads in stock). In any case, the bicycle has two brakes (which cannot be said about the frame, rear wheel or handlebars), so even if one of them fatally fails, you can always complete the route with appropriate precautions.

The author tried quite a large number of different models of brakes on bicycles in his family, and in the end finally settled on disc hydraulics Shimano SLX(interestingly, the more expensive Shimanos are not so much better as they are more expensive). These are relatively inexpensive (including pads), problem-free and powerful brakes with a successful design. Maintainability is ensured by a normal selection of replacement units and spare parts (by the way, if you buy additional screws for securing the pads for 1 euro each, then the SLX calipers turn into HT). It is important that, due to the lever system in the handle, the distance between the pads and the rotor is quite large - with a normal rotor, the caliper position needs to be adjusted only when replacing the pads.

Formula also produces good brakes, but Hayes, Tektro and SRAM - Avid can sometimes cause problems during operation. Rare brands of brakes from “garage” manufacturers are a thing in themselves. They can work great, but simply searching for pads can be a hassle, not to mention repairing or replacing worn units.

Why disc hydraulics? Firstly, the author has the most extensive experience with precisely such brakes in a variety of conditions, from competitions to autonomous hikes. Secondly, mechanical brakes, unlike hydraulics, are much simpler in design, more understandable to the general public and have fewer hidden pitfalls.

Settings

Due to its design, the hydraulic disc brake does not have many settings. Let's list them:

Distance from brake lever to steering wheel. It is adjusted, in general, once, for a specific hand. It is important that whenever you press the brake, the handle does not touch the steering wheel.

Brake caliper position. It is selected in such a way that the pads do not shuffle on the brake disc (or shuffle minimally).

Some expensive brakes have free movement of the handle. Allows you to make the handle “harder” or “softer”. It is not very clear who needs such a setting; usually the regulator is in the most rigid position all its life.

There is no hydraulic setting for the distance from the brake pads to the rotor! Due to the design of the brake, this is simply impossible; the distance is clearly determined by the caliper device.

It is also, of course, possible to rotate and move the brake lever relative to the steering wheel. Usually the handle faces down at an angle of about 45° to the vertical, but it can also be installed higher or lower, depending on convenience. The transverse position of the handle is adjusted so that it is convenient to press it with 1-2 fingers, depending on the brake power. Braking with 3-4 fingers is a very bad habit, since this gives the hand a much worse grip on the handlebars, and the force of pressing the brake can easily send the cyclist into a ditch.

Perhaps the only subtle point here is the adjustment of the caliper position. Many brake models have too little distance between the rotor and pads, and the rotors are not the smoothest, so a common complaint is that the pads constantly scrape against the rotor. Actually, there are several alternative methods of adjustment, they all start with the fact that you need to loosen the longitudinal bolts of the caliper so that it can easily move left and right:

In some cases, shuffling can only be avoided by a miracle:

Brake disc is curved and/or has a large diameter. The instructions for Shimano brakes say that discs with a diameter of 180-203 mm will touch the pads (note: not “can”, but “will”). A disc curvature of 0.5 mm (almost invisible to the eye) will already lead to irreparable shuffling.

The brake disc is too lacy and bends easier than the caliper moves along the guides. As a result, methods 1 and 2 do not work. There are rigid disks on sale, mounted on a spider.

There are brakes in which the gap between the pads and the rotor is not visible to the eye. Getting rid of shuffling on them is a matter of high art. If this annoys you, then try to focus on brakes that have a large gap.

Slightly crooked hub axle and/or disc seat. As a result, after removing and installing the wheel, the axle will align differently, the disk will move slightly and begin to shuffle. A fairly common problem with brakes with low clearance.

In conclusion, we note that a slight shuffling of the disc on the pads is not such a big problem if the wheel rotates freely and its braking is not felt. From experience, the hub dynamo brakes the wheel much more even without the lights on. It is often easier to ignore a slight shuffle than to correct it. And even more so, the disc will always rub against the pads in the mud. If the disc is not inclined to accumulate dirt (like old Shimanos with many small holes), then the wear of the pads in the mud will be relatively small.

Bleeding the brakes

As a rule, a good brake can be used for its intended purpose immediately after purchase (not counting shortening the hydraulic line for new brakes - see below). But over time, moisture, dust, and air gradually get into the hydraulic fluid, as a result the handle begins to sink more, the properties of the fluid (and, accordingly, the quality and reliability of the brake) deteriorate. This may not appear during normal driving, but in some mountains, lack of brake care can make itself felt - the fluid in the brake system can boil and the brakes will fail. (For reference: pure DOT4 boils at 230 °C, and containing only 3.7% water boils at 155 °C.)

Therefore, it is advisable to pump the hydraulic brake once every 1-2 years. bleeding), that is, replace the hydraulic fluid with a new one, simultaneously removing air from the system. This operation is not the most difficult, but it is sometimes messy, and usually requires a special kit, so most cyclists find it easier to have their brakes serviced. If you want to pump it yourself, then the safest thing to do is buy a special kit from the brake manufacturer (or an equivalent) and follow the appropriate instructions, making sure to specify what kind of fluid should be poured into your brake.

What we shouldn’t forget is that pumping is done with the pistons as wide apart as possible (sometimes a special spacer is placed between them). Otherwise, you simply will not be able to move the pistons apart when installing new pads without bleeding excess fluid from the reservoir. Also, use only high-quality wrenches that fit perfectly when unscrewing the brake system plugs, since small Torx are very easy to tear off. Finally, remember that DOT4 packaging should not be stored unopened for long.

Since DOT4 is poisonous, manufacturers of such brakes try to create a bleeding technology with the minimum possible contact with the liquid (based on two special syringes with threaded fittings). Unlike “oil” brakes, where oil is sometimes simply poured using a certain technology into the open reservoir of the brake lever and drained through a tube from the caliper. At the same time, this has a very beneficial effect on the cost of the pumping kit, which sometimes comes down to just an IV tube.

Instead of expensive branded kits, IV tubes and medical syringes are often used as a budget option, but in this case, without honed skills, the pumping process can last for hours, accompanied by curses addressed to the designers, puddles of oil or DOT4 on the floor, and there is no guarantee that The brakes will work better after bleeding than before.

Shortening hydraulic lines

If you got the brakes with a new bike, or you bought OEM or used brakes with hydraulic lines of the appropriate length, then you will not have to shorten the hydraulic lines.

After purchasing new manual brakes, you will most likely need to shorten the hydraulic lines before installing them on the bike. If you do not do this, then the chance of breaking the hydraulic line increases by catching the hanging tail on a fairly strong branch. However, in some cases the hydraulic lines are deliberately left long, for the convenience of extreme packing of a bicycle on a plane. Shortening a hydraulic line is not the most difficult operation, which can be done independently with a minimum of tools. If you are not confident in your abilities, contact a specialist.

To shorten the hydraulic line, two additional parts are needed, which always come with new brakes (except for OEM, where these parts may not be available).

A fitting is a part similar to a short hollow nail that is driven into the end of a cut hydraulic line and ensures reliable contact with the brake lever.

An olive is a hollow cylinder made of soft metal that is placed on the end of a hydraulic line and, during installation, compresses the fitting, tightly sealing its connection with the hydraulic line.

These parts are considered disposable. It is strongly not recommended to remove them (especially the olive) from an already assembled hydraulic line. Also, sometimes the brakes come with a special holder with a round window, which makes it easier to clamp the hydraulic line in a vice and drive the fitting into it.

Remember that a hydraulic line that is too short cannot be extended - only replaced with a new one. Seven times measure cut once!

When assessing the required length of the hydraulic line, one must proceed from the fact that when the steering wheel is turned as much as possible, the hydraulic line should not be stretched. In this case, the length should be short enough so that the hydraulic line does not dangle in vain. If other brakes were previously installed on the bicycle, then it is best to estimate the required length based on them. If you are not sure, contact a specialist.

The following is a list of operations for shortening the hydraulic line without bleeding the brake (). Points 3 and 11 can be omitted, but then you will need to bleed the brakes.

Preparing to transport a bicycle

As a rule, when transporting a bicycle on transport (bus, plane, train), disc brakes do not cause any special problems - of course, provided that no one presses the brake lever when the wheel is removed. Typically, no special brake operations are required unless transported by air.

However, if the brakes were last bled a long time ago and there is air in the expansion tank, then if the bike is turned over, it can get into the rest of the system. Sometimes it is possible to expel the air back into the tank by repeatedly pressing the brake handle, but in some cases it will be necessary to bleed the system, which is very difficult in field conditions. By the way, Shimano does not allow the bike to turn upside down, but in practice in 99% of cases this does not lead to anything bad.

To prevent air from getting into the system, brake manufacturers like Magura recommend doing something very simple: before packing the bike, insert a spacer between the pads (if the wheel is removed), press down on the brake lever and secure it in the pressed position with a rubber band, zip tie or tape. The meaning of this operation is that when the handle is pressed, the piston cuts off the expansion tank, and the air from it can no longer enter the rest of the system. In addition, the pressed handle is less susceptible to accidental damage.

The only caveat is that if your system has at least a small leak (not noticeable during normal operation), then holding the handle for a long time will squeeze out some of the liquid from the system (at the same time, for example, it will oil the pads), and the handle will gradually squeeze down to the steering wheel. This is a signal that it would not hurt to check the brakes, find the problem area and fix the leak.

Typical faults and solutions

Disc hydraulics have a very complex design with precision-made parts. Poorly manufactured brakes or poor design can lead to various problems. Also, some features of the operation of hydraulic brakes are inherent in them “from birth” and can cause misunderstanding among inexperienced users.

Here we will describe the most common symptoms of brake malfunction and outline ways to eliminate them. Issues of brake repair are beyond the scope of this article, since without specific skills and knowledge, doing the repair yourself can make things even worse than it was initially.

- means that the brake is considered inoperative until the problem is eliminated. If the problem cannot be corrected on the spot, use the second brake with appropriate precautions.

The brake lever is hard, but there is no braking.

The disc and/or pads are stained with oil. In this case, the brake may howl when braking. It is necessary to clean the disc with an appropriate product, and manufacturers recommend replacing the pads in such cases. However, at your own peril and risk, you can bake the pads over a fire so that the oil burns. Ask yourself if your brake fluid is leaking.

You brake with the disc not against the pad, but against the caliper body. Check the caliper installation and the symmetry of the pistons. A typical problem for mechanical brakes, it rarely occurs with hydraulics.

The brake lever is soft (it touches the steering wheel when pressed hard), the brake does not work.

There is a lot of air in the system. Need pumping.

Hydraulic fluid leak. Brake repair needed.

Problem with the brake lever. Brake repair needed.

A small amount of air in the system, for example if the bike has recently been turned upside down. It may help to press down on the handle to make it stiffer. If it doesn’t help, you need pumping.

On a long descent with active braking, the handle suddenly collapsed or became very stiff, and the braking force decreased significantly.

You have overheated the brake and the hydraulic fluid has boiled. Use the other brake to stop and let the brakes cool. Perhaps the hydraulic fluid needs to be replaced (bleeding), or your brake is not effective enough for your conditions, at least think about buying a larger rotor.

You have overheated the brake, and the high temperature has caused the pads to become “slippery”. Use the other brake to stop and let the brakes cool. Perhaps replacing the pads with metalized ones will help, or your brake is not effective enough for your conditions, at least think about buying a larger rotor

The brake clangs and rustles metal when the wheel rotates.

The brake makes a metallic squeal when braking and the braking force has decreased.

Perhaps the pads are completely worn out (or one of the linings has been torn off), and you are braking with pad backings. Replace the pads. Driving without brake pads will also require replacing the rotor.

When the wheel rotates, the pads scrape against the rotor.

The caliper is not installed correctly. Install the caliper according to the recommendations given earlier in the article. If the caliper adapter is crooked, it must be replaced. If the brake seats are crooked, repair them.

There is too much fluid in the system, the pads are too close to each other. If the pads cannot be moved apart, although the pistons clearly protrude from their seats, you can try to carefully bleed a little fluid from the expansion tank (in the brake lever).

The rotor is bent. Correct or replace it. A straightened rotor may soon become bent again for no apparent reason.

Dirt on the rotor and pads. Either do a couple of brake runs and wipe off the dirt (along with some of the pad material), or wash the brakes with water.

Perhaps the small gap between the pads and the rotor is a design feature of this brake. Often aggravated by large rotors (180 mm or more). Nothing can be done.

The brake makes a lot of noise when braking in wet conditions, but works fine.

This behavior is within the norm. The discs and/or pads may be slightly oiled.

The brake lever is a little soft (does not touch the steering wheel when pressed hard), but the brake works.

The pads are coming to an end. Check pad wear. If there is less than 0.5 mm left of the pads, replace them.

A small amount of air in the system, for example if the bike has recently been turned upside down. It usually helps to press down on the handle to make it stiffer. If it doesn’t help, you need pumping.

Minor fluid leak. You can ride with this for quite a long time, but schedule a brake repair.

Perhaps this is a design feature of this brake. Using the adjustment, move the handle away from the steering wheel so that it does not touch it when pressed hard.

The brake lever crackles when pressed or plays.

This is a design feature of some brakes. If there is obvious damage or doubt about the integrity of the handle, contact for repairs.

The brake works well in warm weather, but in cold weather the brake lever becomes soft or very hard.

The seals in the brake have become stiff from the cold (perhaps they have even begun to poison the fluid), or there is a lot of water in the hydraulic fluid. If the quality of brake performance deteriorates significantly in winter, you can try bleeding the system, and if that doesn’t help, contact repairs or consider replacing the brake. For driving in extreme cold, it is wiser to install a manual transmission.

A new brake (or after replacing the pads and/or rotor) does not develop sufficient braking force.

This is normal, let the pads and rotor get used to each other a little. Drive carefully and do not brake fully until there is sufficient contact between the pads and the rotor.

When installing the wheel, the disc does not fit between the pads or scrapes very hard against them when the wheel rotates.

Someone pressed the brake lever while the wheel was being removed. Make sure the handle is above the caliper and forcefully push the pistons back to their original position using a strong flathead screwdriver. It is better not to put pressure on the pistons themselves (they are easy to break), you need to insert the pads into the caliper and press through them (it is preferable to use old unnecessary pads so as not to crumble their material). After installing the wheel, operate the brake lever so that the pads fit into place and the brake works. Caliper adjustment may be necessary.

After replacing the pads, it happens that the pistons cannot be moved apart completely due to an excessive amount of fluid in the system. You can try to carefully bleed a little fluid from the expansion tank (in the brake lever).

A slightly bent hub axis caused the pads to touch the disc. It is necessary to either adjust the position of the caliper again, or rotate the hub axis to a different position.

Only one pad of a pair wears out.

The pistons move asymmetrically. Check how the pistons move by lightly pressing the handle with the pads removed. If one of them is stuck, you can try to fix the other and move the stuck one out of place. Then clean, lightly lubricate and develop the pistons. If this does not help, contact repair.

Conclusion

In this article, we tried to present the basic wisdom of choosing and operating disc brakes (in particular, hydraulic ones) in an accessible form. It’s no secret that many cyclists either encountered frankly unsuccessful brakes or did not have the appropriate knowledge to work with them - as a result, they gave up and became disc hydraulic haters.

In fact, when dealing with disc hydraulics, three quarters of success is buying good brakes that won’t cause problems, another quarter is knowing which way to approach them. The author hopes that this article will help beginning and intermediate cyclists look at disc brakes in a new way and avoid problems and disappointments.

However, remember that the brake is one of the most important components of a bicycle in terms of its impact on safety and riding comfort. In the event of any incomprehensible problems or, especially, breakdowns, it is always better to contact a specialist bicycle mechanic than to ignore these problems or solve them with improvised means.

Material prepared by: Zakharova Yulia Lipovskaya Yulia

A bicycle is one of the most economical modes of transport. At all times, bikes that reach maximum speed have been in demand. But to safely stop or slow down, we naturally cannot do without reliable brakes.

The most common today are rim And disk braking systems.

Before purchasing a specific type, you need to consider factors such as the nature of the ride, the type of track, as well as weather conditions. One type of brake may be effective on a mountain track, but in urban conditions it will be completely useless.

In order to understand which brakes are better - disc or rim brakes, you need to study their pros and cons.

Features of rim brakes

The principle of operation of rim brakes is the pressing force of the pad on the wheel rim, as a result of which the bicycle stops. In general, all rim brakes can be divided into the following subtypes:

cantilevers – rarely used lately and are found mainly on cyclocross bikes;
V-brake is the most popular model today. They got their name due to the V-shaped mounting of the levers;
U-brake (pincer) – used on road bikes and BMX;

Let's look at rim brakes using the V-brake as an example, since this model is the most common these days and is suitable for installation on almost any type of bicycle.

This braking system has several significant advantages:

However, such brakes also have a number of significant disadvantages:

changing the geometry of the wheel (figure eight) can lead to the pads touching and constant braking;
They work very poorly in bad weather. The design is very sensitive to dirt and water, which reduces braking efficiency, which can lead to dangerous situations;
rapid wear of pads;
impossibility of installation on some models of frames and forks.

When purchasing rim brakes, you need to consider where you are going to ride and in what weather conditions.

Disc brakes: operating features

The design of disc brakes consists of a disc placed on the wheel hub and a caliper that compresses this steel disc with pads. The braking force is transmitted from the handle by a cable or through a hydraulic line, depending on the model.

When using disc brakes, the following advantages can be identified:

have high braking power compared to other types;
less clogged when driving and work at any temperature;
more smoothly regulate the braking force;
the incorrect shape of the wheel does not affect their operation;
do not require constant maintenance.

Of course, disc brakes are not without certain negative qualities:

the weight of the brake system is quite large;
high price;
difficult maintenance, since pumping requires special equipment;
accidental contact with oil on the disc significantly reduces braking efficiency;
may interfere with the installation of the trunk.
Careful handling is necessary when transporting the bike, since if the rotor is bent, the brake will stop working altogether.

If the bike is used for competition, we recommend using disc brakes only.

Comparison of disc and rim brakes

Of course, disk systems are considered more modern, easy to use, and technologically advanced. In addition, they are ideal for various competitions and trips on mountain trails, where reliable bicycle components are important.

If you are not going to overcome difficult sections of rough terrain and your goal is quiet walks around the city or on flat roads, then V-brake brakes would be an excellent budget option.

Bicycles equipped with disc brakes naturally cost more than models equipped with rim systems. That is why, when buying a bike, the choice should be made based on the type of terrain you are going to ride on.

If you buy a bicycle with a v-brake type braking system, and then decide to change it to a disk one, it will not cost you at all, and it is not a fact that the design of the bike will allow this, since not all models of bikes with rim systems can install disc brakes.

Remember! Whatever type of braking system is installed, it must 100% fulfill its main function, because the road can be unpredictable. To do this, we recommend checking the brakes for functionality before each trip.

Most likely, no one will doubt that brakes are one of the most important parts of a bicycle. The health and life of not only the cyclist himself, but also all road users, directly depends on the proper operation of the braking system. Therefore, it is logical to conclude that when buying a bicycle, you need to choose a reliable model with a strong braking system, which will allow you to stop the bicycle in a short period of time in an emergency on the road, regardless of weather and road conditions. However, when choosing a bicycle, you can easily get confused by the variety of braking systems, their characteristics and recommendations. Therefore, it’s worth first understanding what kind of braking systems exist, and also comparing the advantages and disadvantages of one or another braking device.

Types of Bicycle Brakes

Technology, as well as bicycle spare parts, are improving every day. Therefore, the types of brakes that were used in the past may no longer be installed on modern bicycles. In this regard, we will only talk about two main types of brakes.

1. Rim brakes

Mechanical (a cable and a cable jacket are used for compression).
Hydraulic (for compression they use a hydraulic line and brake fluid).

2. Disc brakes

Mechanical.
Hydraulic.

Sometimes there may be bicycles with a mixed braking system (hybrid). For example, the front wheel may have a disc brake and the rear wheel a rim brake.

Which brakes are better: rim or disc?

Rim brakes

All rim brakes have a common disadvantage: the wheel rim is damaged during braking. In case of severe damage, when the wheel is twisted into a “figure eight” or “egg”, it is almost impossible to use the brake. Also, in rainy weather, braking is uncertain, due to the wetness of the pads and wheel rim. It is necessary to constantly monitor and adjust the brake as the pads wear.

However, rim brakes are successful and are very often installed as they have a number of advantages such as ease of maintenance, affordability, as well as low weight and parts compatibility.

Mechanical rim brakes include pliers and cantilever brakes. Plier brakes consist of pads that are attached to arched levers; when braking, they compress the wheel rim, thereby reducing its rotation speed. The brake cable operates the levers and is conveniently attached to the handlebar handle. The advantage is that clamp brakes are widely available and easy to use. The disadvantages are that such brakes often warp, creating unnecessary friction on the rim, quickly become dirty and have mediocre modulation.

Cantilever brakes are very common to see on mountain bikes. The operation of the cantilever braking system is very simple: two levers with pads are secured to the fork using two special fasteners. When you press the brake handle on the steering wheel, the cable begins to pull these levers towards each other, thus pressing them against the rim, creating friction and braking of the wheel. The main advantage of this type of brake is the complete absence of the possibility of clogging the brake system with dirt.

Hydraulic brakes differ from mechanical brakes in that there are no levers that are attached to the pads, as well as a cable system that operates the levers. The principle of operation of the hydraulic system is quite simple: a handle with a master brake cylinder is attached to the handlebars; when pressed, pressure is transmitted to other brake cylinders attached to the bicycle fork. The created pressure forces the brake pads to move towards the wheel rim, which leads to braking. It is worth noting that such a braking system is very effective and is often used in trials. However, hydraulic brakes are heavy, difficult to maintain, and difficult to repair while camping.

You should also pay attention to V-brake brakes, which are popular and widely used recently. In appearance they are very similar to cantilever ones, but they have a significant difference in the principle of operation. Due to the specific attachment of the cable to the levers, the braking power of the bicycle increases. They are easy to maintain and reliable, also light in weight and thanks to the system of parallel supply of pads to the wheel, they wear out evenly and contribute to better braking. When purchasing a bicycle, you need to make sure that the brakes are adjusted, and then regularly check their serviceability.

As for drum or roller brakes, they are located directly inside the hub itself in the wheel, motionless, and when braking, they are pressed against the rotating part, reducing speed. Such brakes are quite simple and are not afraid of dirt or dust. However, in case of malfunction, they are very difficult to repair and are heavy, so they are rarely used on hikes.

Disc brakes

This type of brake has recently become more and more common and practical for bicycles. Disc brakes are simple in structure. They consist of a disc that attaches to the wheel hub, a caliper that attaches to the fork or frame, and a cable (mechanical system) or hydraulic tube (hydraulic system) that connects the caliper to the brake lever.

When buying a bicycle with a disc brake system, you can be sure of high braking efficiency, you will not need to worry about the condition of the wheel rim, your trips will never depend on weather conditions, they do not require constant maintenance and adjustment, and they have a long service life.

By choosing a bike with a mechanical braking system, you can save a lot on your purchase. The structure of such a system is very simple and looks like a V-break type brake. Here, a simple cable is used to connect the caliper and brake handle. However, you should consider not only the pros, but also the cons. The disadvantage is that the cable can stretch over time, and because of this there is a possibility of the cable getting stuck in the jacket. However, despite this, they are very easy to repair in any conditions, cost less and are well suited for any hiking trips.

If your budget allows, you can buy a bike with hydraulic braking system. Here, braking is performed by transmitting the braking force from the brake handle to the caliper using incompressible brake fluid, which is located in a high-pressure hose. This type of braking system is very effective and has high modulation. A bike with a hydraulic disc braking system is great for professional mountain bikes. But the disadvantages of these brakes should also be taken into account, among which their high cost and difficulty in setting up, which requires special tools and experience, come to the fore.

Finally, it remains to look at bicycles with a hybrid braking system. Such bicycles are very rarely found on sale, because they are expensive and disc mechanics in this case are not much better than other braking systems.

Of the brake systems considered, of course, the most highly effective are hydraulic disc brakes. However, before purchasing, you need to consider the conditions and frequency of use of the bike. And only after that decide what type of braking system you want to deal with, and what of this your budget allows.

Effective braking when going downhill on a bicycle can literally be a lifesaver. In urban conditions, the dependence of life and health on the quality parameters of brake components is not critical. But where there is speed, long descents and sharp turns, the effectiveness of the braking system not only ensures the pleasure of riding a bicycle, but also eliminates many of the problems associated with breakdowns or loss of control over the road. Therefore, the closest attention must be paid to the installed brakes. Many hobbyists with relatively more experience prefer to assemble equipment in parts, choosing individual components based on individual considerations. When it comes to the braking system, the question of choice usually arises:

Which is better v-brake or disc brakes?

A categorical answer without assessing the specific situation may turn out to be erroneous. These brake systems have significant differences. First of all, this concerns the design and location. V-brake brakes are attached to the frame or on the steering fork in the upper part, so that the clamping pads attached to the pressure levers synchronously come into contact with the rim in a specially set position. Disc brakes are installed in close proximity to the wheel axle. A brake disc is attached to the wheel hub, which, when moving, is pressed on both sides by pads (different in shape and installation method than in the case of v-brake). As a result, the necessary frictional fixation is achieved to slow down or completely stop the rotational movement. Brakes of both types are installed on the base using special holes (provided in the frame and): with internal threads - disc brakes or completely smooth - v-brake.

Mechanical and hydraulic brake systems

There are fundamental similarities between the control of v-brake and mechanical disc brakes: in both cases, the force from the manual pressure lever to the brake is transmitted through a cable inserted into a “shirt” that is attached to the frame and/or to the steering fork. In hydraulic disc brakes, the transmitting action occurs through tubes filled with brake fluid. Hydraulic line tubes are vulnerable to mechanical damage. If a hydraulic disc brake ruptures or leaks, it becomes completely ineffective. If air gets into the hydraulic line (depending on the concentration of air bubbles), the performance of the braking system is lost completely or partially.

The undoubted advantages of the hydraulic option include exceptional maximum clamping power and prompt response to control movement. In mechanical systems, the transmission of force along the cable occurs with a certain delay, which can affect the efficiency of control, for example, during a high-speed descent. The complexity of the design of hydraulic disc brakes requires the creation of special conditions when repair work is necessary. When both mechanical v-brake and disk systems can be repaired and/or tuned, as they say, in the field.

Comparative advantages of v-brake:

1. Unpretentiousness, relatively simple installation and configuration.
2. Affordable price, especially in comparison with hydraulic disc systems.
3. Simple lightweight design that reduces the overall weight of the bike. May be important for competitions in certain sports disciplines.
4. Sufficiently powerful braking force.
5. Affordable supply of pads and spare parts, which facilitates maintenance, partial or complete replacement and repair.

Disadvantages of v-brake systems:

1. High quality wheel assembly is required. In the presence of the “eight”, efficiency is significantly reduced. A significant range of curvature prevents the pads from making uniform contact with the rim. As a result, excess friction may occur, preventing the wheel from fully rotating in free mode. If the gap between the pads and the rim is made excessive, then the power of the rubbing clutch may not be sufficient to create the necessary braking effect.
2. When moisture gets on a metal rim (without a ceramic coating), v-brake becomes less effective - the pads slip along the rim with an unpleasant sharp sound.
3. The friction of the pads on the rim during the prevailing extreme movement can, in a fairly short time, wipe the metal of the rim to a state of unusability.
4. Due to the proximity of the road surface, when driving, dirt particles abundantly fall on the pads and rim, which accelerate the wear process.
5. During long descents, as a result of constant friction, the rim becomes critically heated, which can affect the integrity of the tire (in areas of direct contact with the rim).
6. The distance between the clamping arms provided by the v-brake design does not allow the installation of extra-wide tires for extreme driving conditions.

Advantages of disc brakes:

1. Operating efficiency does not depend on how smooth the rim is. Disc brakes can perform their functions even with critical curvature of the rim, up to the striking friction of the tire on the frame or steering fork.
2. Does not wear out the rim.
3. Works great in rain, snow and when driving in muddy conditions. Disc brakes are located away from the road surface, which minimizes the likelihood of dirt particles getting on the surface of the brake disc.
4. Tires of any size can be installed.
5. Provides powerful braking force.

Disadvantages of disc brakes:

1. Due to the complexity of the design and constant design changes made by manufacturers, it may be difficult to repair and replace individual components.
2. The disc is easily deformed and practically cannot be restored. Therefore, if the bicycle falls and the disc hits, or, say, during careless transportation, the disc brake may become unusable.
3. The load on the spokes and the hub increases.
4. Do not allow oil or other lubricants to come into contact with the disc.
5. Disc brakes weigh more than v-brake products.
6. Comparatively higher cost.

The choice is yours, friends! May the force be with you:) Watch the video to get the full picture about bicycle brakes:

Is it worth talking about the importance of brakes in a person’s life - be it car brakes, bicycle brakes or in general? I think no. We'll just help you choose brakes for your bike.

Brakes are perhaps the most important bicycle component on which your life may depend. Therefore, you need to choose them carefully and wisely.

The main criterion - the braking surface - determines the types of bicycle brakes:

1. Rims

mechanical

hydraulic

2. Disk

mechanical

hydraulic

3. Drums

brake bushing

rollerball

The most popular are rim and disc brakes. Here we will tell you more about them.

And we will start with the basics, namely, with the design of each type of brake.

Bicycle disc brakes are very simple in concept. A steel disc is attached next to the spokes, on the left side of the wheel hub. The pads are pressed against this disc on both sides using a simple device. The braking force depends on the degree of pressure of these pads.

Bicycle rim brakes are designed differently. There are two long levers located on the sides of the rim, on one of them there is an anchor bolt, and on the other there is a stop for the cable jacket, and the brake pads are pressed, respectively, to the wheel rim. Today, rim brakes are the most common and popular.

Why do cyclists prefer rim brakes?

First of all, this type of brake has more force than other brake systems, which allows the use of special brake levers with much less force applied.

Rim brakes have minimal weight, so they do not weigh down the bike. For certain riding styles, this is a very important parameter.

They are harder to break and easier to customize (you can handle this task yourself).

High braking efficiency is ensured by a manual drive.

During prolonged braking, rim brakes heat up less than disc brakes.

A big plus for many is the low cost of rim brakes.

Disc brakes also have their own, no less significant, advantages:

The main advantage is the high braking power and high modulation.

Disc brake pads have a longer service life and are more wear-resistant than rim brakes.

They do not require constant adjustment - it is enough to configure them once.

High quality control of disc brakes is ensured by a hydraulic drive.

Even if the rim is damaged, such brakes will work without problems.

Another indisputable advantage is that these brakes do not depend in any way on operating conditions; they are not afraid of dirt, water on the rim and dust.

A few words should be said about companies that produce bicycle brakes.

The main manufacturers are Shimano, Avid, Tektro, Alhonga. Shimano occupies a leading position in the bicycle equipment market and differs from others in its high quality products, wide range of equipment and affordable prices in its classes.

In the disc brake market, the generally accepted leader is Avid (USA). Hope brakes can rightfully be called one of the best in the world. Leaders in the production of disc brakes are also companies such as Shimano, HAYES and Tektro.

When choosing a new bike, always remember that disc brakes are more expensive than rim brakes, which means they “eat up” part of the price of the bike due to other components. To put it simply, for a certain amount of money you can buy a bicycle with better equipment, but without disc brakes, than a “weak” device, but with disc brakes. Of course, disc brakes for bicycles are more modern than rim brakes, more powerful and efficient, and they look more attractive. But sometimes you need to give preference not to beauty, but to practicality.

So we come to the main question of this article - which brakes to choose for a bicycle: disc or rim?

If you have been skating for a long time and even want to become a professional, and most importantly, you clearly understand why you need to spend a decent amount on disc brakes, then it is better, of course, to buy them. Otherwise, your choice is bicycle rim brakes, especially if you are new to cycling.

In short, both disc brakes and rim brakes have advantages and disadvantages. Therefore, before purchasing, weigh all the pros and cons and make the best choice for your training and riding style - choose those brakes whose properties you can use 100%, and their maintenance will not be expensive for you.